Roll'nLock as TR-solo Back-Up Device

The Roll’nLock is one of the best pieces of kit IMO. It can be used as a primary device, but it’s use as a secondary backup device is where it really shines. While most people use the Microtrax as a back-up according to my recent survey, I feel that the RnL has one main advantage. While both devices run freely on the rope; both lock-up immediately because of the teeth/ribs; and both have the ability to be locked open when you’re ready to rap so that it will freely run down the rope....the Microtrax has a nasty flaw IMO.


It has the habit of slipping from the lock-open position to locking on the rope in the middle of a rap causing you to come to an abrupt halt. Jarring to say the least and a PITA. You then have to unweight the device (which may take some doing if you’re on a overhung pitch), lock it open again and resume your rap. This can happen multiple times on a single rap and is just a big CF. The solution when using a Microtrax for backup is to completely remove the device from the rope then put it back on for climbing. To me this just interrupts the whole flow of TRSing and introduces the possibility of dropping it at the top of the pitch. (As a side note I’ve also had the Microtrax unexpectedly go from being locked on the rope to a lock-open position also - potentially dangerous. This was after checking and making sure that it was locked on the rope. That’s why some people file/grind off the lock-open tab). With the RnL I’ve never had either of these situations happen.


The lock-open mode of the RnL is much more positive and has never slipped back into the lock-on-rope mode while rapping. Depending upon one’s setup, that means that at the top of the route (or anywhere in-between) it’s simple to hang on the primary device, lock open the RnL and rap. What could be easier? Well actually there is one way to make it easier. Normally locking it open is a two-handed operation. With the addition of a finger loop pull-cord it is a much more manageable one-handed operation.


A fellow TRSer turned me on to the idea from the following video (https://youtu.be/At3m_DDP2fA at the 7:32 mark). The solution in the video is kind of bulky and could get in the way. I’ve adapted the idea and attached the cord a bit differently and made it into an index finger loop. I used a 1.5mm diameter piece of accessory cord that is looped around the center post of the lock mechanism (see photo). It’s easiest to use a piece that’s several inches longer than what you’ll need to allow you to play around with what size of loop works best for you. I use a simple overhand knot that’s easy to undo and move to get the right sized loop. Hint: to make it as efficient as possible and keep it out of the way, make the loop as small as possible. Once you work out the best size for your hands/fingers, tighten knot, trim the ends short and burn them, then pull on the loop and the knot will tuck against the post out of the way. My experience is that it stays completely out of the way and doesn’t interfere with the action of the cam when climbing or rapping.


To lock-out the cam, insert index finger in the loop, press thumb against the pulley and pull out and up to rotate the cam ~90 deg. until the lock tab slips over the lock pin. To unlock. insert index finger, press thumb against pulley and pull up to release and allow cam to rotate back onto the rope.
For me, using the RnL an a backup to either the TAZ Lov2 or the Trango Vergo offers the most seamless TR climbing possible. Climb, hang on primary device, lock-open the RnL, and rap.






If the loop bothers you because you're afraid it might catch on something (I'm not), then you can alway pull the loop from the knotted end so that it becomes a knotted pull-cord.