The holy grail of TRS devices would be a device that allows me to freely climb with no slack build-up; be able to quickly lock-up when needed; and be able to rap whenever I desire without having to switch devices. Well that device is now here - it’s the TAZ Lov2. It’s not perfect in all these functions but good enough for me that it’s “the answer” for most situations. With the Lov2 the "sum" is greater than the "parts" (individual functions) and yields a device without peers.
I’m well into my second season of using the Lov2 and am quite happy with it’s performance in most situations. I’ll summarize my experience up front and then get more into the details. The Lov2 is the only all-in-one-dedicated-device that ticks all the boxes for TRSing for me. There are other devices that outperform it in a specific function. However there is no other device that combines all the TRS functions into one device and performs at the level of the Lov2 without having to switch devices for rapping.
I think an apt analogy is that it can be considered the Silent Partner of the TRS world. It's high quality and bomber construction inspires confidence. What's the "price" one has to pay for this?! It's big, heavy, and expensive - though none of these prohibitively so. It is specifically designed and tested for doing all the functions required for TRS (ascending, fall arresting, and descending) and does all of these functions at a fairly high level. None of the other devices that I know of meet all these criteria. I’ve used the Revo, various GGs, and the Eddy hoping that they (either in stock or modified form) might be the all-in-one-device of my dreams - but they all have major downsides. I dare say, I'm going out on a limb here, that even as the Silent Partner has developed a cult following in the LRS world, the Lov2 could have the same potential in the TRS world. However, just like the SP, it probably won't happen till it’s no longer available and people are scrambling to try and get one. The caveat here is the remote possibility that a newer device is designed and marketed that will outperform it - however I wouldn’t hold my breath.
PROS: Does it all (feeds well/locks-up relatively quick/decent rapping); great for doing laps; repeatedly working a section of a route; hanging top-outs; down-climbing; high quality/bomb proof construction that inspires confidence
CONS: Weight; size; price, rapping takes a bit of practice to master
So, that’s the summary of my experience…but the devil is in the details. Read on for all the salacious details of how I set it up; when I would and wouldn't use it; and some tricks I've learned.
So, that’s the summary of my experience…but the devil is in the details. Read on for all the salacious details of how I set it up; when I would and wouldn't use it; and some tricks I've learned.
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The following information is provided based on my experience which is continually evolving. This is not a "how-to" manual. If you use or rely on any of this info, you do so at your own risk. I encourage you to test and retest before committing to a course of action. You may find better set-ups for your own situation (route/rope/experience/degree of risk tolerance). Please let me know of your experiences and share on social media.
The Lov2 is not designed as a TRS device per se but more as a work and recreational device in the rope access and arborist's worlds - which is probably why most climbers have not heard of it. However, it IS designed and tested to fulfill all the three main functions required for TRSing - ascending, fall arresting, and descending. As I discuss it’s various characteristics and function, I’ll try to do so in relation to some of the other major devices on the market that I've used.
Specs: dynamic ropes: 9.5-11 Static 10-11 (see comparison chart at the end below)
Construction: stainless steel (all rope wear and structural parts), heavy duty aluminum side pates, and plastic handle and rope tension cleat
type of device: Straight through rope path with a tension cleat and pivoting rope pinch lever/arm
Website: https://taz3d.fr/product/lov2/
Setup:
Review is based on using a 9.5 Black Diamond rope moderately worn and slightly fuzzy. 130 lb. climber
The Lov2 works best when held in a vertical position as per user guide. It should be connected to the belay loop with an auto- locking pear or oval 'biner. While the Lov2 could be used without a neck strap/chest harness, it would hang too low on the belay loop and then travel up to the top and through a ~90 deg. pivot when locking up. By using a sling/neck strap/or chest harness it can be held in a vertical position just above my navel which reduces the amount of travel when locking up. The device will still pivot upwards during a fall, but is still low enough to keep it away from my face and neck.
The Lov2 and 'biner can be held vertically by a small 2mm dia. piece of cord threaded through the cover plate and clipped to a neck strap/over the should sling or chest harness. I've tried other cord loop and arrangements for holding the device and 'biner up but saw no advantages. By using this small cord loop permanently attached, I never have to worry about loosing it and it's super easy to clip and unclip.
There are a lot of options to hold the Lov2 vertically: anything from a breakable or elastic neck cord, crossed slings, a double twisted sling, Petzl Torse, or full chest harness. I prefer the Torse because it’s fairly minimal, the length is quickly and easily adjustable, and it places the minimal weight felt on the tops of your shoulders. It does not go around your neck even though it may look like it in the photos. It also doesn't constrict one's chest like some set-ups and is never too loose because of it's adjustability.
Another option for holding the Lov2 and 'biner up is to use this method for improvising a minimalist harness with a sling that won't get pulled up around one's neck. https://www.instagram.com/p/B92bbBPpqPl/
I also use (though not always) a Petzl Tanga rubber "keeper" cut in half to keep the Lov2 centered on the 'biner. Also, I sometimes use a 6mm cord loop girth hitched around the 'biner and harness waist belt keeper loop. This keeps the Lov2/'biner combo held at the top of the belay loop and keeps it from moving around when climbing, bending over, leaning down, etc.
Feed: This is usually the prime concern for people who TRS. We all want something that will feeds more or less without friction and without having to attend to it - to get as close as possible to the "free-solo" feeling. This is where the Grigri and Eddy fail as they need constant attention until well up the route and even then I can feel the friction of the feed. The best in class are the Gremlin and Microtrax. Not too far behind those is the Lov2. I use 9.5 dynamic ropes which is the smallest diameter within the specs and allows it to flow freely. With the 9.5 ropes I can get by with with minimal amount of weight attached to the bottom of the rope. usually on clove hitch a shoe or two.
Lock-up: It’s certainly not the quickest in locking up when weighting the rope or "falling", though it’s not bad either - usually a max of around 4"-10” because the Lov2 needs to pivot up to cause the lever /arm to pinch the rope. I would say it’s on the order of the Rescucender, Roll’nLock and Goblin in it's ability to lock. The best in class is the Microtraxion of course but that’s because of it’s small size and aggressive teeth. However thus far, I’ve never had an issue with the Lov2 locking and after getting use to it’s operation, it inspires confidence.
Rapping: Again, not the best in class (Grigri) but it isn’t bad. It DOES take a bit of getting use to because the “sweet spot” in the handle movement is smaller than the Grigri. However, it doesn't have the annoying anti-panic feature like the Grigri+ and Eddy. I find those to be a PITA and of dubious value for someone experienced with the device. At the top of a route with 100’ of rope weight below me, it takes significant pressure on the handle to initiate the rapping process. The pressure on the handle lessens the further down the route I rap. Fortunately the handle is fairly large which helps in the initiation and control. Unfortunately the ergonomics of the handle leaves something to be desired. For me it puts my hand and wrist in an uncomfortable position. I would love to see that tweaked in a future version. There’s a couple of techniques that I've used that can be helpful and increase the safety while learning to rap with the Lov2. I’ll cover those a bit further down.
Note: as stated on the TAZ website and video instructions - when using the Lov2 for rappelling, one hand should always be on the handle and one hand below the device on the rope to provide extra friction. NO EXCEPTIONS! (some of the photos below don't show both hands because they are posed and my one hand is holding the camera or remote control).
Back-up: Having a back-up for all soloing devices is highly recommended. I have used two methods:
1) A fall rated maillon/quick link attached to the belay loop underneath the Lov2 can be used with back-up knots. As I climb I add back-up slip knots occasionally below the million/quick link. If a fall should result and the Lov2 fails for some reason, the knot will jam against the quick link and save my bacon. It’s simple, cheap, and doesn't cause additional friction and is a surefire way to add back-up protection. However there are two main disadvantages. First, is that I have to interrupt my upward progress and find a no-stress stance to tie the back-up knot. Secondly when descending I need to stop and untie each knot. This seems to me to to defeat one of the main purposes for having the Lov2 in the first place: seamless uninterrupted climbing flow. The next method solves that and I virtually never use this method any more. However if I'm going to be working a crux section of climb I use this method. It's super easy to hang before the crux, tie a knot and then proceed to climb and lower as many times as necessary.
2) A Roll’nLock can be connected below the Lov2 on the belay loop. The RnL flows extremely well up the rope as I climb and I really don’t notice any more friction than without it. Should the Lov2 fail, the RnL will lock. The great advantage of the RnL is that at the top of the route it’s easy to lock open so that it slides freely down the rope as I rap. These two devices together provide the smoothest and safest TRSing experience that I know of. A Microtrax also works as a backup, however I've found that the lock-out mechanism often slips while rapping and unexpectedly locks on the rop and interrupts the decent. This is extremely annoying . I'll never use the Microtrax as a backup for any of my setups.
Note: Since I originally wrote this, there have been some potential issues found by users when using the RollnLock below another device. Until I can do extensive testing, I've switched back to the MicroTrax with the mods listed here: Microtrax use and mods
Update note: even though I show various possible methods below to add friction to the descent, in the long run I feel that it's best to learn how to use the Lov2 the way it is intended: one hand on the handle and the other hand grabbing the rope below and supplying friction. With practice, it's the easiest and best.
3) The rope can be rethreaded back through the 'biner that is used to attache the Lov2. This has to be done on the side where the gate is. A more elegant solution would be to use a Petzl Freino ‘biner ($$) that allows the rope to be quickly inserted and doubled back on itself to add friction. If either of these methods are used long term, it could cause the rope wear the aluminum side plate of the Lov2 because it travels a slightly diagonal path.
4) An oval 'biner can be clipped beneath the Lov2 on the belay loop and a bight of rope pushed through a small maillon/quick link as shown. This will also add friction to the system and help add control.
5) The lower brake hand can squeeze the rope back against the device pinching it and causing it to bend at a more acute angle and increase the friction. The hand is used to modulate the decent in conjunction with the brake handle. This method is probably best for short descents and/or reworking a section of the route. (Brake lever not shown in action here and I would normally use my right hand for the squeezing function and left hand on the brake handle. However, for clarity I show it here with my left hand). Note: if using this method to rap very far, a leather glove would be necessary!
Replaceable parts: the plastic tension cleat that helps provide a slight amount of friction on the rope so that the Lov2 pivots and locks-up, will wear over time However it's replaceable and the TAZ website has instructions for how do that.
When do I NOT use the Lov2?
- On a route where the crux is low on the route (first 15’) and the route is over 50' I don't use the Lov2 because of rope stretch (I use dynamics ropes) and fear of hitting the ground. I also wouldn't use this set-up if I'm climbing friction slab of 60 deg. or less. In both of these situations you want immediate lock up and minimal rope stretch. For these situations, I use a Microtrax and a Spoc (or two of either) on parallel rope strands with both devices mounted together on a wide pear ‘biner. I tie and weight the two strands together. This provides smooth feed and immediate lock up with the least amount of rope stretch whether using a static or dynamic rope.
- I also would not use the Lov2: if I wanted the very best climbing experience (the most like free soloing); AND if I have a no-hands top-out (seldom) where I can easily switch devices for rapping; AND if I'm not concerned about getting back down quickly to do another lap working on endurance. In that situation, I use a Camp Goblin (or Kong Backup) on top with a Roll’nLock or Microtrax underneath as a back-up. It is the freest running set-up with the quickest possible lock-up IMO.
For a similar set-up using the Trango Vergo see my blog post: Cheap Love?! The Vergo vs Lov2 for TRS
