Four years ago I wrote a blog post on the using the Vergo for TRS. This is an update to that blog and new material on using it for LRS also. If you’re not familiar with the Vergo or using it for TRS, I suggest that you read and digest my previous blog first. https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2020/08/vergo-for-top-rope-soloing.html All the same warnings apply here. The Vergo is not made for rope soloing and the manufacturer has explicitly warned against such use. It will void the warranty, and you could likely be injured or killed by using it beyond the manufacturers design parameters and instructions. With that out of the way, onward. You’re been warned.
In the first part I’d like to update my setup for TRS. In the past I was using a 1.5 - 1.75 accessory cord loop tied around the release handle housing. I was using as small a diameter cord as possible (given what I I had on hand) in order to keep it from rubbing on the side plate as it rotated when locking up. I have since switched to using 1.0-1.1 dyneema. It’s smaller, slicker and stronger. This further insures that it will not rub and interfere with the rotation of the side plate. I tie ~ 2" loop and use a overhand knot, then burn the ends and use a drop of super glue on the knot. The second change I’ve made, is that instead of fixing it to the handle housing, I now either clove of girth hitch it to the small ‘biner/clip that I use to attach the Vergo to the chest harness/sling. It stays attached there and to put it on the Vergo I slip the loop over handle and onto the handle shaft housing. When switching to Lead mode, I take the loop off the hand and leave it attached to the 'biner/clip on the chest harness. This allows for two incremental improvements. 1) it keeps it out of the way when the Vergo is used for LRS and, 2) if the Vergo is used for normal belaying there is one less thing to get in the way. If you are only using the Vergo for TRS and not for LRS or normal belaying, tying it to the handle axle housing as before is still a valid way to go.
OK, now onto the main new info. While people have used the Vergo’s predecessor the Cinch for LRS, it was not popular because of some known weaknesses - mainly, there had been some accidents with people using it for normal belaying. Also, it was known that the steel pin that is used for pinching/breaking the rope, was made of a softer steel, that over time, wore down and caused it to slip. Also, the release handle on the Cinch was extremely small and was hard to use due to the amount of pressure needed and the lack of control. These things were all remedied in the latest version of the Vergo. The new hardened steel pin wears extremely well.
Recently I’ve seen renewed interested in using the Vergo for LRS. While there is still much derision by some that it is an inferior device and even dangerous, after seeing a recent Vergo LRS setup my interest was peaked to try using it for LRS. The main piece of info that was missing for me was how to suspend and hold it up so that it that it would feed and lock-up. Using the TRS loop or just letting it hang from belay loop on a ‘biner, both were horrible for LRS feed. On a post on the LRS FB list, one poster suggested that if the plastic thumb button were pried off, it would expose a hole through the hollow axle that a piece of cord could be threaded through, which could then be connected to a chest harness. (this makes it similar to the Cinch.) This allowed it to feed well for LRS. However, their setup appeared awkward and less than optimal to me so I experimented until I came up with the current version seen at the start of the blog and below. With my setup it's easy to transition between LRS and TRS (see below).
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| (Yann Camus / Bliss Climbing) |
The black plastic button can be pried off by carefully by inserting a wide flat blade screwdriver underneath it and gradually twisting the blade. It will pop the clip and plastic rivet off (which can be seen on the inside of the axle). While it won’t hurt the function of the Vergo, and it can still be used for normal belaying, it will permanently remove the thumb rest and you’ll not be able to replace it. After it is removed there will be a 3-4mm hole through the center of the axle/pivot. This will be used to attached a new loop of cord that will be used to connect to a chest harness for LRS. This new connection point give extremely easy rope feed.
I used a 10-12” piece of 3mm cord with the core removed to make the new loop. Strength is not that important since it is only required to hold the device upright while climbing. That means it only needs to hold the weight of the device and rope feeding from the cache loop. It DOES NOT need to hold the weight of a fall - that is held by the ‘biner through the Vergo and belay loop. A 3mm cord without its core when tied with a Water knot is just the right size to be crammed down into the hollow and stay put out of the way. The process looks like this:
Tape both ends of the cord tightly with painters or masking tape. Cut through the taped end of the cord to give a clean cut.
Tape both ends of the cord tightly with painters or masking tape. Cut through the taped end of the cord to give a clean cut.
Take off tape from each end and pull the core out.
Tie an overhand knot about 2" from end of cord then insert the cord through hole in the Vergo so the knot is on the gray steel side of the Vergo. (These photos were taken with a piece of cord after I had already threaded and rigged mine up.)
After it cools, jam the knot down into the hollow and seat it down in as far as possible.
Cut the outside end short and burn it to form a molten stopper blob. The end result should look like this with a smooth loop of cord and the knot hidden out of the way:
Cut the outside end short and burn it to form a molten stopper blob. The end result should look like this with a smooth loop of cord and the knot hidden out of the way:
My current setup looks like this:
LEAD mode
TR mode
Climbing with the Vergo looks like this:
- Climb route
- At top of route fix the rope to the anchor
- Undo MT if used for a cache loop
- Rappel on Vergo and pull gear
- On ground (or at previous anchor) unclip Vergo from chest harness
- Flip Vergo and rope 180 deg. and attach TRS Dyneema loop over the handle so that it is around the steel handle housing.
- Reattach 'biner to the belay loop, and
- Weight rope and climb back up to anchor in TRS mode.
At this stage I have not taken any real whippers on it - just short little test falls. I'm from the generation where the ethos was that you climbed at a level where you don't expect to fall. I'll leave it to you young'ns who are used to whipping while projecting, so please do judicious testing with this setup. Be careful out there!
Many people who use a GG, Vergo, Cinch other other improvised device for LRS, often have a fairly taught connection between the belay loop and chest harness. I usually run mine so it's less taught so that the belay loop 'biner is almost slightly free hanging within the belay loop. Initial tests have shown that it might possibly be able to lock up during a headfirst fall if the connection goes slightly slack. This will require further testing with it rigged to a dummy weight and shoved backwards off a cliff. Should this prove reliable, it could be the first device that would allow TRS/ LRS/ and headfirst fall protection. Note however, that this is at the conjecture and initial testing stages, so don't count on it. Even if further testing shows it likely to lock-up in a headfirst fall, there should always still be a reliable backup of some type.
Since I consider all this experimental, I'd appreciate any thoughts and experiences you have if you try a similar to this setup. All my experimenting with the Vergo has been with 9.4 - 9.5 ropes. It would be interesting to see how this setup works with small ropes from 8.5 to 9.2. If you experiment with small ropes, do so cautiously. Please post any comments below. Thanks!
Warning: If using knots as a backup with the Vergo, they should be either anchored to the harness / full strength gear loop, or, if on the free line below, they should pass through a quick link on the belay loop or auxiliary belay loop. If not, the knot will jam against the Vergo and because of the nature of the design, it could cause the two halves to blow apart in a high factor fall. This has NOT been observed but IMO this preventative measure should be taken. However everyone's risk factor varies.