Converting Classics to PROs

With the introduction of the Gstring PRO model coming in November and the new RipCord quick-release adjustment system, we're offering instructions for those who have Gstring "Classic" grips and would like to convert them from the Prusik hang loop to the new RipCord adjustment system. While the Classic version will remain the most versatile, some may prefer the ease of adjusting of the new RipCord system. Before starting the conversion, it would be good to review the differences in the previous blog post to see which is best for you. Most materials can be obtained online through various sources or through your local outdoor and hardware stores. We'll also be offering a conversion kit in the near future to make it easier for users. It will include everything necessary for the conversion except the 'biners (see below).

WHAT YOU WILL NEED:

RipCord Update Kit from SICgrips store, OR the following items:

• 4 - 1" i.d. (inside diameter) x 3/16" (4mm-5mm) thick stainless steel rings. You may be able to get a thinner nickel-plated steel version of these at a hardware store. If thinner, they may not adjust quite as easily and will not be as strong...but should work (use at your own risk).
• 11' of 5mm extremely flexible accessory cord - the best brands we've tried are Sterling and New England (Maxim). Some of the other brands such as BlueWater are stiffer and will be difficult to adjust using the RipCord system. Smoothness and flexibility of the cord are the keys to ease of adjustment. 
• 3 feet of 3mm accessory cord.
• the cord-lock tube that you'll remove from the existing 3D-Sling cord.

Optional:

• 4 - 3" pieces of 1/4" I.D. vinyl tubing to serve as cord protectors to prevent abrasion of the 3D-Sling cord by the StikGrip.

Whether you purchase the update kit or the individual items above, you'll also need:

• 2 oval or 2 symmetrical pear 'biners. NOTE: D or modified D 'biners; asymmetrical pear 'biners; or small 'biners should not be used. They will cause the cords to bind and may be difficult or near impossible to adjust. If you don't have any of these biners and don't need the light weight aluminum 'biners for portability, ClimbTech's steel oval is excellent and reasonably priced.

ASSEMBLY:

1. Take off previous 3D-Sling cord, by either by pulling out and untying the knots inside of the crimper or by cutting cord and pulling knot out the end. Save the short 5" cord-lock tube that you'll re-use.
2. Cut the 5mm cord into two equal 64" pieces. Melt the ends making sure that the end result is not larger than the diameter of the cord itself. When the melted ends are still molten, roll on a yogurt container lid or thin piece of cardboard to form into a neat, small diameter end. This is important or it will not be able to go through cord lock tube or the vinyl tubing in the next step. Be careful of the molten nylon before it cools - it burns!
3. Thread new cord through cord-lock tube. Wetting the cord and tube with soapy water will help it go through easier.
4. Position the cord lock tube so both legs of cord are exactly equal in length.
   
5. Thread cord ends through holes in bottom of grip and make sure cord lock tube is pressed flat against bottom of grip. The cord lock tube may slightly bow but the ends should be flat (locked ) against the bottom of the grip.
   
6. Recheck to make sure both legs of the cord are equal. If not, pop up the cord-lock tube and pull a small amount of cord through tube to adjust. Press cord-lock tube back against bottom of grip again.
7. If using vinyl tubing cord protectors, thread one on each cord leg.
   
8. Thread both ends of cord together through the 1-1/4" stainless steel ring
   
9. Thread the end of each cord through the smaller 1" ring, crossing them where they go through. Each cord end should end up on the opposite side of the grip. This is crucial.
   
10. Thread on the last two vinyl tubing cord protectors.
    
11. Thread ends of cords through the holes in the hollow of the crimper.
    
12. Tie an overhand knot with 1/4" tail in the end of each cord, then push the knot inside the crimper and tighten by pulling.
    
    
13. Take strands A & B and bring them together underneath and inside of the other two strands as shown below:
    
    
14. At this point, make sure the large ring is oriented like this. Note the other two strands of cord come up through the large ring from right to left.
    
    
    NOT like this, left to right. If it is wrong, simply flop the ring over the other way from left to right to orient correctly.
    
    
15. Make a loop by pushing strands A and B up through the larger ring between the existing two strands coming through the larger ring. You will now have four strands of cord together that form a loop.
    
    
16. Clip a 'biner through the four-strand loop that you just created. It should look like this:
    
17. Cut the 3' piece of 3mm cord into two 18" pieces and melt the ends.
18. Place both ends of one of the 18" pieces of 3mm cord together and tie an overhand knot an inch or two from the end. Repeat with the other 18" piece of 3mm cord.
    
19. Girth-hitch the 3mm cord loop to the smaller ring. This forms the RipCord, that when pulled, will release tension on the 3D-Sling cords so the grip can be easily adjusted. The end result should look like this:
    
    
      

Note: Once you insert the 'biner in the 3D-Sling, do not remove! If you do, the adjustment system will collapse and no longer function. To reassemble again, repeat steps 13-16.

USING THE RIPCORD ADJUSTMENT SYSTEM:

Pull RipCord 5"-6" with one hand to unlock the cords, while at the same time keeping tension on the grip with the other hand, rotating it to desired position. When desired angle is achieved, pull on grip to lock 3D-Sling cords again before using. If changing the grip drastically (i.e. rotating it 180 degrees from crimper to flat edge, or vice-a-versa, or rotating 90 degrees to a vertical pinch), it may take a couple of rocking/seesaw motions consisting of pulling ripcord while rotating grip, then pulling ripcord again with another slight rotation of the grip. Once you get the hang of it, it'll offer an extremely quick and easy method for changing grip positions.

A Gstring Comparison: "Classics", PROs, and Converted "Classics"

With the Gstring PROs soon to be offered (hopefully mid-October?), I thought it would be good to compare and contrast the original Gstring (now called Gstring Classics) with the Gstring PROs and converted Classics with RipCords. In an upcoming blog, I'll give step-by-step instructions for converting the Gstring Classics to the new RipCord adjustment system. We won't be offering Classics with Ripcords for sale  but we'll provide detailed instructions for how to do it. Also, in the near future, we'll offer a conversion kit for those who would rather not have to hunt for parts from several different sources.

Classics:

• 

  
  

  cords are stiff making them easier to hang and remove from mounts over your head
• can be adjusted either while they're hanging or not.
• 5mm long-lasting cords 
• lighter in weight (2.2 lb./pair) 
• adjustable hanging length from 13"-16". (If vertical clearance is critical, they will mount higher than the Gstring PROs)
• better for travel because of light weight and versatility in mounting (able to be used in a doorway in a pinch while traveling)
• strengths: versatility - able to be used hanging, with free weights, weight machines, TRX straps, etc. rowing machines, etc.

PROS:

• 

  
  

  quicker and easier adjustment with the RipCord quick release system (must be hanging in order to adjust)
• wider at the crimp end making a full hand sloper easier for larger hands
• heavy duty 6mm flexible accessory cord used for 3D-Sling
• two oval 'biners (Black Diamond) included with purchase which are integral to the RipCord adjustment system
• hanging length - 17" non-adjustable 
• easier to change StikGrip (do not have to remove 3D-Sling or cut StickGrip to fit around cords)
• cord protectors to help prevent abrasion of the 3D-Sling cords
• heavier in weight - not quite as suitable for travel (3.3 lb./pair)
• strengths: more user friendly for changing positions when hanging; larger; heavier duty

Classics with RipCord Conversion: 

• 

  
  

  user converts a set of Classic grips by purchasing an accessory kit or gathering the necessary parts, then disassembling and reassembling the grips according to provided instructions
• has Classic size and shape, but with the addition of the RipCord adjustment system which makes adjusting super-easy
• heavier in weight than the Classics, but lighter than the PROs: ~3 lb./pair (depending upon which brand and model of 'biners are used)
• like the PROs, they will need to be hanging to be adjusted
• 5mm flexible accessory cords will need to be replaced more often than the standard stiff cord used in the Classics
• user needs to provide 2 oval or symetrical pear 'biners
• 17" non-adjustable hanging length
• strengths: more user friendly for changing positions in vertical hanging mounts

All grip versions will maintain Gstrings' unique shape and adjustability which give you 8 unique grips positions and the ability to fine-tune the degree of difficulty of each position.

About the Surface Texture of Gstring Climbing Grips

We're back! We've been in and out for a good part of the summer with climbing, vacation travel, and the wedding of my youngest son, etc. Now it's time to start the blog back up with some new articles. The first has to do with the StikGrip surface used on Gstrings.

During the past couple months we've been testing the next version of the Gstring Climbing Grips at a local climbing shop and a gym. On these prototypes (previously we used the working name of 'Black Widow,' but  now we're calling them the Gstring Pros) we used a much courser texture of StikGrip, similar to what can be purchased in the SICgrip.com store. Many who tried them raved at how grippy they were.

However since then we've changed our minds about the value of that much texture. With the coarse StikGrip surface they're so 'sticky' that in the sloper or pinch position one can almost adjust them to a vertical position and still hold on fairly easily. In the crimp position with the coarse StikGrip it can quickly tear up fingertips during a training session. And in some grip positions the 3D-Sling cord rubs on the coarse StikGrip surface and wears more quickly.

So our current thinking is that for general all round use and training the standard medium grit is still probably the best for most users. For those who have been training for a while and are getting stronger, the 'fine' StikGrip offers more of a challenge and a harder workout than either the 'standard' or 'coarse'. For a few badasses, taking the StikGrip off completely and using them bareback will offer the ultimate in difficulty. Gstrings are currently being used this way in Korea for pinch grip competitions by arm wrestlers and martial artists.

So...who might want to use and benefit from the course StikGrip? Probably only those who want to toughen up their finger tips and hands. If you're training for climbing on extremely sharp granite or sandstone, it could help toughen up your skin, but at the same time limit the degree of difficulty because they are so 'sticky'.

If you want to use the coarse StikGrip because it makes the positions easier, we suggest that instead you adjust the Gstrings to a more relaxed (easier) angle instead of going with the courser StikGrip. A future blog will deal with other ways to make the Gstrings easier - especially for beginning climbers who may want to train but haven't built up tendon strength yet and should probably work on endurance more than strength.

Lastly, we're nearing completion of testing and sourcing materials for the production of the Gstring Pros. We hope to have a limited number of sets available in time for the holidays. They won't offer any major new grips positions but will offer stronger materials, a bit wider grip at the top, and a new Ripcord quick adjustment system that allows you to change positions easily without taking them down from their mounts. They're aimed more at heavy duty gym use and for those who just 'need' to have the ultimate in Gstrings! :-) We'll compare and contrast the differences in a future blog post closer to the time of their release.

Gstring Climbing Grips Videos

These videos have been announced on our Gstring Facebook page and have also been integrated into the SICgrips website. However, if you're a reader of the blog and haven't seen them yet, the following short videos may be of interest.

We spent a week in Missoula climbing, rafting and shooting these videos. The goal was to create several short videos that document what's already on the website such as grips positions, adjusting Gstrings and suggestions for exercises to use in a training program. Some people would rather see it in video form than photos and text. Also, it helps create more buzz by having them up on youTube and in a form that can easily be passed around.

We also wanted to create a short video showing the uniqueness of the grips while illustrating our product tag line: 'Less is More'. Since I didn't have any creative ideas, I gave my son complete creative freedom to come up with something ~30seconds that illustrate the 'less is more' concept. Well he did that in a very unique way and which also ties it into the double entendre unique to the product name. Imagine my surprise when I got a rough cut of this! Please be aware that the first video may not be suitable to play in a work environment.

How to Set Gstring Climbing Grips Back to the Same Angle

The local rock monkeys work'n the Gstrings on the Gallows prototype

Some users have mentioned that it's a challenge to consistently set the Gstrings back to the exact same position used in the last training session. While it can be done by trial and error, the following method can help aid this process and make it simpler, quicker and more consistent.

For example, say you're training on the crimpers. Since the rotation of the grips determines the difficulty of the crimp (because they're ellipses and contact area varies), it's important that you get the grips consistently back to the same angle so that you're training the same degree of difficulty each session.

When you find a grip position that you'd like to train, hang the grip and double check that it's the exact angle you desire, then tighten the Prussik knot. Take the grips down and use a fine or medium tip marker and put marks along both sides of the Prussik knot on the cords of the 3D-Sling like this:

This will result in four small marks - two on each side of the Prussik knot:

Take the second grip and adjust it so that it hangs exactly the same as the first one. Then mark it like you did the first grip.

Now when you change the grips to different positions, you'll see four marks along the 3D-Sling that should look like this:

Whenever you desire to return to the grips to the previous position you were training, you'll have these marks as reference points to set the grips back to that position. It's simple to loosen the Prussik knot and slide the hang loop back and forth along the 3D-Sling until the marks line up with two on each side of the Prussik knot just as had when you first marked them. The grip will hang at exactly the same angle as before:

If you want to mark several different grip positions, it could become confusing with several sets of marks all the same color. If you find yourself in that situation, you may want to use different color markers for each position. For example: black for one position, red for another, dark blue for another,  and green for another.

As you continue to sue them over time, you may find that it becomes easier to adjust them and that you rely less on the marks. However, if you're into a serious training program where it's critical to have them set exactly the same as before, the marks will enable you to consistently do that.

Chris Webb Parson’s 30-Minute Finger Strength Program

Chris Webb Parsons recently posted a video of his finger strength hangboard program which has generated some interest on the web. Tommy Caldwell even said he’s going to give it a go while he can’t be out on the rock. I thought it would be good to summarize Chris’s program and share with Gstring users as one way to use and benefit from Gstrings. Gstrings offer a number of unique features which can further extend and customize Chris’s program.

Start by watching Chris’s video to become familiar with his basic method. It's a program designed to increase finger and hand strength. Please note the usual cautions and caveats:

• Don’t start the program if you have having finger, wrist, elbow or shoulder problems.
• Stop the program if issues start to develop in any of these areas.
• The program WILL increase finger and hand strength which can lead to developing bad habits by relying on new strength instead of good technique.
• It can be an excellent way to improve your climbing ability IF integrated with good climbing technique and habits.

His program basically is designed to train flat edge/crimp positions. However, it can be used for any grip position. Other possibilities with Gstrings are any of the pinch or sloper positions. This is an excellent way to train whatever grip position you are weak at. 

< If training a crimp position, Chris recommends using a half-closed crimp. The crimper on Gstrings allow you to easily adjust the difficulty by rotating the grip.

> I personally found that I needed to start with something a bit easier and used the flat edge between the first and second joint position. Then eventually reducing it to the first joint and then transitioning to the crimper. 

For this training you'll only use one Gstring grip because you're focusing on one hand at a time. You’ll need to replace the other Gstring grip with an old piece of climbing rope, webbing, or a sling. A fat old piece of fuzzed climbing rope worked ideal for me.

Choose a grip position that you desire to train and then adjust the difficulty so that you can only hang on for 2 seconds before dropping off due to your grip slipping or hand opening up. The beauty of Gstrings is that once you decide on a grip position, it’s easy to customize the difficulty by adjusting the angle of the grips. If training the flat edge or crimp position you can also modify the difficulty by the degree of contact your fingers have on the grip or how many fingers you use. 

Use the piece of rope to augment the hand being trained by pulling just enough to stay on the grip for 10 full seconds. If you fall off before the 10 seconds finish get right back on and finish out the 10 seconds. At the end of 10 seconds loosen your grip on the rope so the Gstring hand fails by opening or sliding off. In subsequent hangs modify the assistance provided by the rope hand so that you stay on the full 10 seconds. As soon as you finish one hand, switch and start the other hand immediately. After finishing both hands rest 3 minutes then repeat the cycle for a total of 3 times.

Three arm positions are trained each session: arm almost straight but not locked; arm bent less than 90 degrees; and, arm bent more than 90 degrees. The following chart sums up the cycle:

Session schedule  (~30 minutes)

straight arm (not locked)
left	right	3 min. rest	repeat cycle 3X
arm bent <90
left	right	3 min. rest	repeat cycle 3X
arm bent >90
left	right	3 min. rest	repeat cycle 3X

Recommended: 2-3 sessions per week with at least 1-2 days between sessions

This is designed to be a 12-week program consisting of two 6-week cycles. As you progress and gain strength you will be able to increase the angle of the grip or reduce the finger contact area so that you remain constant at 2 seconds for the unassisted hang. 

12 week program schedule

week	hang time 1st 6-weeks	hang time 2nd  6-weeks
1	10 seconds	5 seconds
2	10 seconds	5 seconds
3	5 seconds	10 seconds
4	10 seconds	5 seconds
5	max. time without assistance	max. time without assistance
6	rest	rest

Once you understand the principle and cycles, it’s quite easy to get into the groove and follow the program. It’s great because it’s only takes ~30 minutes per session. By being consistent and keeping a log of finger and grip position and contact area, it's easy to track your progress. 

Let me know if you try this and how it goes, the end results, and any modifications or suggestions or modifications you have after using this method. At the end of the 12-week cycle either take a break, train a different grip position, or increase the difficult of the current position (finger contact area; angle of hold; change to finer grip surface; or add weight).

Chris’s method isolates training to the finger and hands. If you’d like to have a more holistic approach that also involves the core and abs, see some of the exercises listed on the SICgrips website.

RollBar for Finger and Forearm Training

OK, I mentioned that I would explain how to make a RollBar. You're probably thinking "What in the world is a RollBar?" The RollBar is my version of a commercial-type training device. While the bar can be used as a pull-up/chin-up bar, that's not its primarily purpose. The main purpose of the RollBar is to provide another way to train finger, hand and arm muscles through a range of motion from an open hand position to a positive jug position. This is done by grasping the bar like you are going to do a pull-up but then gradually letting your body weight unroll your fingers until you are about to lose your grip and roll off the bar, then roll back up to a full grip. By rolling back and forth, rolling and unrolling your fingers, you can create an incredible forearm pump! It can provide complementary exercises to those done on your Gstring Climbing Grips or hangboard.

It's may be difficult to do this under full body weight (at least for me). However, by resting my heels on the floor in front of me I can control the amount of weight on my arms. Probably a better way to reduce body weight would be to use a pulley reduction system and weights which would allow you more precision and control in reducing the weight. This would require an additional 2 pulleys (sicgrips.com/Endurance.html). Since I use the RollBar more for endurance training for forearms and fingers than for power, I try to maximize repetitions. This means doing it with significantly less than full body weight. I repeat the unroll - rollup cycle as many times as possible with my heels resting on the ground in front of me. After doing as many times as possible, I rest, "rinse" and repeat for a total of 3 cycles. This creates an incredible pump in my forearms similar to climbing a longer route. 

The commercial product (Lapis Rollybar) that sparked the idea for the RollBar had sealed ball bearings inside a resin bar which rotated on an axle. No doubt it's really 'slick' and heavy duty, but at $150+ I can do without the glitz and smoothness as long as it's still functional. 

Besides being cheap, the system I comes with another major advantage - it's easy to insert different diameter bars. While I haven't done it yet, I plan to also make 2" and 4" diameter bars to add variety. Depending upon materials what materials you use and how many of them you already have, the RollBar could easily be made for under $20.

Materials needed:

• 2 sleeve bearing pulleys. You can also use ball bearing pulleys which provide less friction and make it really smooth, but are quite expensive if you have to go out and buy them.  I used two sleeve bearing pulleys that I had lying around which are often used in climbing/rescue work. If you need to go out and buys pulleys, a cheaper alternative would be the hardware store variety of pulley with sleeve bearings like this. However, they generally aren't as smooth running:

     

• 6mm accessory cord for making the "belt" and pulley hanging loops. Length varies (see below). 
• 1" PVC pipe - 24"-30" long (I weigh 135lbs - if you weigh over 150lbs, you may want to change the PVC to a steel pipe or tubing. The exact length needed will vary depending upon where you plan on grabbing it - inside the cord belt, or outside and what the distance is between the cord belts.
• 3/8" "S" hooks or 2 additional small loops of 6mm accessory cord depending upon whether you'll be hanging the pulleys from a bolt or doorway pull-up bar like this: 

     

Optional:

• PVC tubing caps (to give a finished look but functionally unnecessary)
• Several sheets of 220-320 grit sandpaper and contact cement (to provide a friction surface so that it's harder to slip off of bar). 

Construction:

1. Cut tube to length.
2. Make two equal sized "pulley belts" from the 6mm accessory cord using a using a water knot or double fisherman's knot. Determine the diameter of "pulley belt" by how low you want the bar to hang below the anchors (lower if you want heels on floor in front of you to take weight off, higher if you want to free hang, and if you plan using a variety or larger diameter bars. A good general size to start with is approximately 5-6" diameter if you plan on using different diameter bars but want it mounted as high as possible. If you're only going to use the 1" bar then it's possible to reduce the diameter even more to 4". If you want your feet on floor in front of you, you may want to increase the diameter to 10"-12" (approximate size shown above).
3. Spray or brush contact cement on the bar. After a few minutes roll the bar on the paper backing on the sandpaper like a rolling pin. After it's applied, trim off the excess at the seam with a metal straight edge and utility knife. Only apply the sandpaper where your hands will go on the bar. I coated the entire bar with sandpaper (except for the ends where the caps slid on) however I think it would roll smoother if the cord belts rolled on the bare PVC pipe.
4. Assemble the pieces and hang. See the photos.

Variations:

• It would be easy to create a 2", 3" and/or 4" RollBar using PVC with the pulleys. The 4" would give a work out that was more like that obtained on slopers.
• Reversing the hands (chin-up position, palms facing you) and doing the same exercise could work the complementary muscles to help keep everything in balance. This would also help work some of the muscles used in underclings.

Caution:

If you perform the finger roll-unroll with your feet on the floor out in front of you, make sure to have some padding underneath you in case your fingers roll off the bar when your pumped. A bouldering pad works great.

~~~~~~~~~~

Well that's it for this installment. Let me know if you have questions, modifications or additions. In the near future I hope to share some new tips and exercises using the Gstrings which haven't made it onto the website yet.

Making a Rope Rug

OK, I lied. I said the next blog entry would be on how to make a RollBar forearm trainer to supplement your Gstring workout. It's the new year and I thought the depths of winter may have some of you looking for something creative to do indoors.

Sooo...whadda ya do?  It's winter, you don't ice climb, you've pulled down on plastic and done all the routes you're capable of multiple times, and you've trained on your Gstrings till your arms feel like spaghetti...

...Well if you're a trad or sport climber and have an old rope lying around you can learn the art of making a beautiful and useful rope rug out of it. What a great way to recycle a retired rope! I have seen several different patterns and methods but I like the woven rectangular ones best. I've woven quite a few in the past and then sold and donated the money to the Access Fund, so I've gained a lot of experience and developed my own method over time. 

When SICgrips started up there wasn't any spare time to continue rug-making. However I didn't want the experience I'd gained to be lost so I posted step-by-step instructions in a thread on the Supertopo forum. The information became a bit scattered over time so it was hard to track down all the hints and tips. A while back I gathered all the posts together and put it up on the SICgrips website. If you're interested in giving it a try, you can check it out here. You can also Google "climbing rope rug" and find other interesting weaving patterns, as well as how to do spiral rugs. 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~

OK, I promise...next blog will be how to make a RollBar to augment your Gstring training.

Gstrings Make it to Everest...

…Base Camp, that is. Since we’re not a large company selling Gstrings through retail outlets, we depend on blogs, email list-servs, limited advertising and word-of-mouth. I also thought t-shirts would be a good idea for getting the logo and brand recognition out there. While still in the beginning stages of the Gstrings production process I had two test shirts printed up with a prototype design. 

Antonio and Marion, friends and occasional climbing partners, had a trek planned to Nepal. Antonio asked me if I had a Gstrings shirt he could take along so he could get a photo of it on him with Everest in the background. What a cool idea! Sooo…I gladly provided him one of the t-shirts to pack and do with whatever he saw fit.

After returning Antonio said there was more than one occasion when he considered jettisoning the “excess cargo” to lighten his pack as they continued to gain altitude. But the t-shirt eventually made it to the high point of their trek, he donned it, and Marion shot these cool pics.

Antonio tells the rest of the story...

Here we are on Kala Pattar at an elevation of 18,500', above the elevation of Base Camp, but below that of Camp I (both too small to see in the background in this photo). The front peak is the west ridge and behind it is the summit pyramid of Chomolungma (Mt. Everest). You can see tiny plumes streaming off Lhotse which just barely peeks behind the ridge of Nuptse.

On the return from the Everest area coming across a high plateau, we ran into what had to be the most merry yak dung collector ever. He's looking mighty proud of his afternoon's work, don't you think? I asked if I could take his pic, and then thought to ask if he wanted a shirt.

He gladly took it, then bounded off - I mean hauled ass up the hillside (no small feat at over 15k feet) to join his friend who was also herding yaks and gathering yak-pies. We watched him give the shirt to his friend who immediately took off his own shirt and put the Gstrings one on. They were running around hooting and hollering, obviously happy as can be at getting a nice new shirt (actually I had slept in it a couple of nights). It was cool to be able to see their enthusiasm, even from a distance. I wish I could have gotten a photo of his buddy with the shirt. Needless to say, they spoke no English and they were far enough away that it was all I could do to wave goodbye. 

It made our day really...

----------------

Check out the final Gstrings t-shirts designs here and help spread the Gstrings gospel by getting a shirt and wearing it at the places where you climb. Whoever provides us with a photo of the t-shirt on top of Everest will receive a free set of Gstrings! :-) 

The next blog entry will discuss how to make a RollBar that will give you an incredible finger and forearm burn and augment your Gstrings workouts. Stay tuned...

Welcome!

This is the first post to SICgrips’ new blog! My vision for the blog is to post new ideas for mounting, maintaining, and using Gstring Climbing Grips, as well as new innovations and products at SICgrips. It may also delve into design, climbing locations, adventures, interesting links, and other things related to training and climbing, and who knows what else! I’m sure it will evolve as time goes on - stay tuned!

Craig