A fairly easy to make hangbar that has some unique properties. This blog post probably won't answer every question that one might have, but hopefully will give enough info re the design and building process that the average woodworker can make their own custom version of it.
GOAL - create a hang bar project that:
- takes up minimal space - both when mounted and when stored
- rigidly mounted (vs hanging/suspended types of bars)
- aesthetically pleasing
- functional
- doorway mounted on expandable pull-up bar (see discussion in Part 2)
- can be left up and not interfere with the function of the door or can be easily removed and stored behind the door
- is 'universal' in that it isn't dependent upon doorway size
- mounts as high as possible for a doorway type pull-up bar
PARTS NEEDED:
The bar is created out of three pieces of wood obtained at my local Lowes.com. It could also be routed or CNC machined out of a single piece of 1.5” x 3.75” x 36” piece of poplar (or other hardwood) if you have the tools and know-how.
2 pcs- 1.5” x 36” square hardwood pcs
1 pcs - .75” x 1.5 x 36” hardwood piece
2 pcs - 1/2" x 3-14" x 4-1/4" hardwood plywood for J-hook backing/spacer plate (or 1 pcs 1/2" x 3-1/4" x 30" (see discussion in Part 2)
J-hooks and screws: https://www.zoro.com/monroe-pmp-utility-hook-steel-1-78-in-4hdw6/i/G0933931/ (400 lb capacity)
3 - 3” #10 wood screws
backing plate screws
1-3/4” wood screws
1-1/4” wood screws
closed cell foam padding: 1/8”-1/4” depending upon doorway and doorway trim profile (craftstore foam)
expandable doorway pull-up bar (ones with end-cups is recommended if you are heavier than 150 lb)
TOOLS USED: can be created with a wide variety of tools from simple hand tools to router and jig. Tools I used in the project: drill press, router table and various router bits, belt sander, hand sand stick
DESIGN:
- based on my LipStik design without the folding legs - BUT - it is flippable which gives twice as many edges (8 instead of 4) for the same number of pockets/steps and space (it’s a whole other discussion whether more edges are necessary or better for effective training)
- It is designed to be mounted on expandable doorway pull-up bar. Bar can be left up and door is still functional.
- 3-piece design that allows working on individual pieces before being assembled
- uses a “stepped finger stop" design that allows user to easily customize for their particular needs
MAJOR STEPS IN MAKING THE FLIPSTIK
1) cut boards to correct dimensions (I was able to buy the correct dimensioned boards at Lowes.com)
2) layout and cut the “steps” in the center board
3) layout cut lines and remove the cutaway on bottom board 
4) put radius on pocket edges of both top and bottom rails (easier to do this before assembled (see discussion below)
5) glue/clamp/screw the three boards together (no photo)
7) round front edge of bottom rail
8) monos - if desired - drill 3/4” hole 30mm deep (or 13/16” - 7/8” depending upon how fat your fingers are and how much side support you want for your fingers). Generously chamfer the edge of mono. Notice the screws holding the three pieces together when I glued it that didn't show up in the other photos.
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See Part 2 for finishing the bar including mounting the J-hooks, what pull-up bar is best, and other finishing details.
See Part 3 for a suggested French cleat version of this bar.
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NOTES AND DISCUSSION
Edge radius discussion - some boards have a constant edge radius no matter size the edge depth (Eva Perez’s Transgression and Progression boards). While others, use a progressive edge radius (the larger the edge, the larger the edge radius) that generally yields more comfort but less accuracy when comparing edge sizes across boards. In this board I've used progressive radius using round-over router bits - which needs to be done before the board is assembled. If I were to do it over again, I'd use one constant radius for the top rail, and a smaller radius one for the bottom rails (smaller edges)
See Part 3 for a suggested French cleat version of this bar.
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NOTES AND DISCUSSION
Edge radius discussion - some boards have a constant edge radius no matter size the edge depth (Eva Perez’s Transgression and Progression boards). While others, use a progressive edge radius (the larger the edge, the larger the edge radius) that generally yields more comfort but less accuracy when comparing edge sizes across boards. In this board I've used progressive radius using round-over router bits - which needs to be done before the board is assembled. If I were to do it over again, I'd use one constant radius for the top rail, and a smaller radius one for the bottom rails (smaller edges)
How many edges/pockets on a hangboard? Edge depths: often the general consensus is the more edges/pockets the better but it depends upon your preference in relation to how you train and your general finger fitness. I think training can be done effectively with as little as three. However for some training protocols it is helpful to have more edges.
Pockets vs non-pockets: true pockets are unnecessary in my opinion. Just limit the number of fingers on any particular edge to achieve the same thing. Sides of pockets just help you "cheat" and take up space. I find it mildly humorous to see all the different pockets on some commercial boards. The one exception might be the mono. It can put a lot of stress on the single finger/joint on a normal edge -especially when first starting to train monos. So it can be important to provide as much support as possible through the sidewalls of a mono if you intend to train monos..
Flippable vs non-flippable: this same basic design could be used in a non-flippable board (like my LipStik) that would have only 4 edge sizes and could be permanently mounted above a doorway resting on the doorway trim with several screws into studs, OR, if using a pull-up bar, just use one set of J-hooks.
Asymmetrical vs symmetrical edge spacing: Many hang boards in the past were symmetrical - that is - have the same edge spacing mirrored from the center line of the board. However that causes unnatural hand spacing in relation to your shoulders - from scrunched to uncomfortably wide. More functional and comfortable in my option is the asymmetrical spacing that allows constant spacing between the hands and shoulders. This bar is designed to have a constant spacing of 18”.
The following are some suggested alternative edge sequences. This is the versatility of using a method like this for creating a hang bar.
Bar shown above is a super wide ratio bar for beginning climbers to moderately advanced climbers
[12mm top/bottom rail difference with 3mm steps]
normal: 30 / 27 / 24 / 21
flipped: 18 / 15 / 12 / 9
general wide ratio for beginning to hard-core
[10mm top/bottom rail difference with 2.5mm steps]
[10mm top/bottom rail difference with 2.5mm steps]
normal: 25 / 22.5 / 20 / 17.5
flipped: 15 / 12.5 / 10 / 7.5
beginning to moderate climbers (this is the same as Eva Perez’s Progression board)
[8mm top/bottom rail difference. 2mm steps]
normal: 24 / 22 / 20 / 18
flipped: 16 / 14 / 12 / 10
moderate to hard-core climbers, close ratio
[8mm top/bottom rail difference. 2mm steps]
normal: 20 / 18 / 16 / 14
flipped: 12 / 10 / 8 / 6
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