Four years ago I wrote a blog post on the using the Vergo for TRS. This is an update to that blog and new material on using it for LRS also. If you’re not familiar with the Vergo or using it for TRS, I suggest that you read and digest my previous blog first. https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2020/08/vergo-for-top-rope-soloing.html All the same warnings apply here. The Vergo is not made for rope soloing and the manufacturer has explicitly warned against such use. It will void the warranty, and you could likely be injured or killed by using it beyond the manufacturers design parameters and instructions. With that out of the way, onward. You’re been warned.In the first part I’d like to update my setup for TRS. In the past I was using a 1.5 - 1.75 accessory cord loop tied around the release handle housing. I was using as small a diameter cord as possible (given what I I had on hand) in order to keep it from rubbing on the side plate as it rotated when locking up. I have since switched to using 1.0-1.1 dyneema. It’s smaller, slicker and stronger. This further insures that it will not rub and interfere with the rotation of the side plate. I tie ~ 2" loop and use a overhand knot, then burn the ends and use a drop of super glue on the knot. The second change I’ve made, is that instead of fixing it to the handle housing, I now either clove of girth hitch it to the small ‘biner/clip that I use to attach the Vergo to the chest harness/sling. It stays attached there and to put it on the Vergo I slip the loop over handle and onto the handle shaft housing. When switching to Lead mode, I take the loop off the hand and leave it attached to the 'biner/clip on the chest harness. This allows for two incremental improvements. 1) it keeps it out of the way when the Vergo is used for LRS and, 2) if the Vergo is used for normal belaying there is one less thing to get in the way. If you are only using the Vergo for TRS and not for LRS or normal belaying, tying it to the handle axle housing as before is still a valid way to go.
|(Yann Camus / Bliss Climbing)
Tape both ends of the cord tightly with painters or masking tape. Cut through the taped end of the cord to give a clean cut.
Take off tape from each end and pull the core out.
Cut the outside end short and burn it to form a molten stopper blob. The end result should look like this with a smooth loop of cord and the knot hidden out of the way:
- Climb route
- At top of route fix the rope to the anchor
- Undo MT if used for a cache loop
- Rappel on Vergo and pull gear
- On ground (or at previous anchor) take Vergo off chest harness
- Flip Vergo and rope 180 deg. and attach TRS Dyneema loop over the handle so that it is around the steel handle housing.
- Reattach 'biner to the belay loop, and
- Weight rope and climb back up to anchor in TRS mode.