Wednesday, April 15, 2015

Good Design Principles

One of the things that drives me as the owner of SICgrips is good design. I don’t want to create something just to be trendy and different or to follow past designs just because they have come to be accepted as the standard. It’s good to think outside the box and let the function of the product along with good design principles determine its form. Below are the ten principles of good design according to award-winning industrial designer Dieter Rams. These are principles that we've adhered to as best as possible when designing Gstring Climbing Grips. The many wonderful comments we've received over the last 3 years <> affirm that. In the near future you'll see these same design principles embodied into Pocket Rocks and all future SICgrip products.

Dieter Rams: ten principles for good design


Rams introduced the idea of sustainable development and of obsolescence being a crime in design in the 1970s. Accordingly he asked himself the question: is my design good design? The answer formed is now his celebrated ten principles.

  1. Is innovative - The possibilities for progression are not, by any means, exhausted. Technological development is always offering new opportunities for original designs. But imaginative design always develops in tandem with improving technology, and can never be an end in itself.
  2. Makes a product useful - A product is bought to be used. It has to satisfy not only functional, but also psychological and aesthetic criteria. Good design emphasizes the usefulness of a product whilst disregarding anything that could detract from it.
  3. Is aesthetic - The aesthetic quality of a product is integral to its usefulness because products are used every day and have an effect on people and their well-being. Only well-executed objects can be beautiful.
  4. Makes a product understandable - It clarifies the product’s structure. Better still, it can make the product clearly express its function by making use of the user's intuition. At best, it is self-explanatory.
  5. Is unobtrusive - Products fulfilling a purpose are like tools. They are neither decorative objects nor works of art. Their design should therefore be both neutral and restrained, to leave room for the user's self-expression.
  6. Is honest - It does not make a product appear more innovative, powerful or valuable than it really is. It does not attempt to manipulate the consumer with promises that cannot be kept.
  7. Is long-lasting - It avoids being fashionable and therefore never appears antiquated. Unlike fashionable design, it lasts many years – even in today's throwaway society.
  8. Is thorough down to the last detail - Nothing must be arbitrary or left to chance. Care and accuracy in the design process show respect towards the consumer.
  9. Is environmentally friendly - Design makes an important contribution to the preservation of the environment. It conserves resources and minimizes physical and visual pollution throughout the lifecycle of the product.
  10. Is as little design as possible - Less, but better – because it concentrates on the essential aspects, and the products are not burdened with non-essentials. Back to purity, back to simplicity.

Saturday, March 7, 2015

Why Not Polyurethane?

The last few months we've been down a long wandering path in Pocket Rocks development. It's difficult keeping to a release schedule when the design-->prototype-->testing-->repeat cycle is dependent on one main person (me) who is a perfectionist. Since I'm also the main person who runs the company, this gets further complicated when partnering with other companies to implement the design. Development time and uncertainty increase by 10x.  :-(

While I won't bore you with all the details, one of the major side-paths taken in the development of Pocket Rocks was trying to mold them in urethane. Since this is the industry standard for climbing holds in gyms, it makes sense to use urethane, right?! They look really slick, so what's not to like?! Well... what makes good climbing wall holds isn't necessarily the best material for training devices. Here's why I believe urethane is not the optimal material for Pocket Rocks:

  • Texture. While many urethane climbing holds offer wonderful texture for climbing walls, that same texture becomes a liability with intensively training on a small range of grip positions. Texture is nice for simulating different rock types in the climbing gym and for actually climbing a route. However for training devices, skin and joint-friendly surfaces are more important. They may not offer as much friction, but the purpose of training isn’t to make it easy, right?!
  • Weight: For portable training devices, wood can be significantly lighter depending upon what type of wood is used. A set of equivalent urethane grips can be almost twice as heavy. For portability wood makes more sense.
  • Efficiency: Urethane relies on silicone molds that have a very limited lifespan and degrade with use. New molds have to constantly be made from a physical master, which is both labor and material intensive. The design for wood grips is stored electronically as a CAD drawing file and each grip is precision machined with no degradation or deviation over time. Each one is always the same. It’s also much easier to make design modifications.
  • Longevity: The wonderful texture of urethane holds wears under intensive use, and once it's smooth and polished, there’s no easy way to restore it to its original condition.
  • Sustainability: Urethane training devices use non-renewable resources that aren't easily recyclable - at least that I'm aware of. Wood is a renewable resource and is also biodegradable. When used in small quantities and sourced from managed plantations or eco-woods, it doesn't contribute to deforestation. 
  • Air bubbles: In two-part molds we ran into issues with air bubbles in the prototypes. I'm not sure if that was due to the unique design of Pocket Rocks or the incompetence of the hold company. :-/
  • Labor: Pocket Rocks require a two-part mold for urethane because of their shape. This drives up the cost of labor compared to climbing wall holds, most of which are simple single-sided, easy-pour molds. While cost isn't the final determinant, in combination with the other reasons it is a significant factor. One of our design goals for Pocket Rocks is to offer a lower cost portable training device.
In short, for training devices, look beyond urethane...

CAD rendering of hardwood Pocket Rocks

Stay tuned for news about the release of Pocket Rocks.

Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Three Gstring Mods to Add Versatility

This month I'll cover three ways that you can modify your Gstrings for added versatility:
  • Adding finger stops to vary grip depth
  • Marking cord to consistently set grips back to the same angle
  • Creating a dual texture surface to ease friction on finger joints

Finger Stops

One of our design decisions when creating the Gstrings was to only have one flat edge in order to keep the grips simple and maximize space for other grips types. This meant instead of having a myriad of different edge and pocket sizes like some hangboards, there is only one large flat edge. To get the same versatility as a hangboard requires you to vary the depth of fingers on the edge. Some training programs (such as Eva Lopez's) rely on precise edge depth increments to control difficulty and guage progress over time. By using a finger stop you can consistently set the finger depth location back to the same place or easily adjust it incrementally. 

To create a finger stop you'll need a small half-round dowel, a square dowel or a small strip of wood slightly longer than the width of the grips (6.5"). You'll also need two large strong rubber bands that can stretch at least 6.5" 
  1. Cut the length of the dowel slightly wider than the width of the grips (approximately 6.5").
  2. Use a fine line marking pen or pencil and mark the depth of the grip position you want to  train. Optionally, you may want to create multiple lines so that the finger stop can be incrementally moved over time (i.e. a series of lines spaced 1/8" apart).
  3. Place the dowel on the flat edge and loop the rubber band around one end. Pull the other end through the inside of the grip and loop it around the other end of the finger stop. 
  4. The finger stop can also be used on the back of the grip on the sloper surface to limit the amount of surface contact of the hand. We recently used this mod for a dead-hang contest for an AAC fund raiser at Seneca Rocks. Using the finger stop assured that each contestant had exactly the same amount of sloper surface to hang from.
  5. The finger stop can be removed when not in use or it can be stored out of the way in the back corner of the flat edge.

When using a finger stop it's important to be able to also set the grips back to the same precise angle each time (see below).

Cord marking 

When setting Gstrings to different grip positions or adjusting the difficulty of a grip position by slightly changing the angle, it is important to be able to consistently re-set the grips back to the same angle. This is discussed on the SICgrips website so I won't go into the details here.

One additional note: if you have Gstring PROs with black or multi-color cord, use a light colored nail polish or acrylic paint for visibility instead of a marker.

Dual Texture

When training on the flat edge, even though we've purposely designed the edge in an ergonomic manner with a skin friendly StikGrip surface, the friction of the curved edge can still wage war on your skin because of the high pressure on the inside of your finger joints. This is especially true if this is a grip position that you focusing on in your training and are doing many repetitions with added weight, as some training protocols call for.

In order to ease the friction on finger joints, score two lines through the StikGrip about 1/2" apart with a steel straight edge and utility knife. After scoring all the way through, peel it off to expose the smooth aluminum surface underneath. This effectively turns the Gstrings into a dual-texture grip: friction where it's needed and smooth where it's not. 

Hopefully these simple mods will help increase the versatility of your grips. Let me know if you have other mods that you've done that have increased their versatility so that I can pass them on, too.

Sunday, April 13, 2014

Innovative New Chalkbags

One of the founding principles of SICgrips is innovation. We love to innovate and we love innovation when we see it. Not innovation just to be different but innovation that solves a problem or makes something easier or better. Something that is so obvious and makes so much sense that you say to yourself "Why didn't I think of that?!" I've just run across a product like that and it's a chalk bag! But first let me share three scenarios I've experienced that illustrate the need.
  1. Have you ever sat down at the base of a climb, in the gym, or on a ledge and ended up spilling half or more of the contents of your chalk bag? It's not such a disaster in the gym (except for the mess) since a refill source is usually close by. However, if you're out at the base of a climb or several pitches up…a bit more problematic!
  2. A couple years ago, my climbing partners had grown bored with the local gym with its "gigantic 20' walls. We decided to travel an hour+ to a "new" gym, only to arrive and find out it was a "chalk-less" gym. That is, they didn't allow the use of loose chalk only allowed chalk balls due to health concerns because of chalk dust in a confined area and because of the potential mess. I can certainly understand that, but it sure was a hassle emptying out all the chalk out of our bags and then having to buy chalk balls.
  3. And finally…last year I was two pitches up at Seneca Rocks and I'd just put in a piece of pro at a decent stance and was de-pumping before moving on. I looked down to find the best foot hold and noticed out of the corner of my eye what looked like a smoke trail or dust, but didn't pay much attention to it. After several more moves I got to another non-stressful stance and went to chalk up again and it hit me…that was my chalk ball sailing down the wall that was making the "smoke trail". Somehow it had fallen out in the process of fondling it at the last stance. 
Now...full disclosure before I tell you about these great new chalk bags. We recently were contacted by Hanchor, a foreign company who wanted to become a Gstring dealer. In the process of talking with them I found out they also manufacture and retail their own line of soft goods for climbers. They offered us the opportunity to become a dealer for their chalk bags and sent us two chalk bags to evaluate: the Kangaroo and the Hula. Wow, are they cool!

So what sets the Kangaroo and the Hula apart and makes them worthy of mention in a SICgrips blog post? Well…they both have an integrated chalk sock built into the bag. No more mess, spilled chalk, or lost chalk balls.

The Kangaroo has a internal zippered chalk pouch that chalk is added to. It's positioned on the front side of the bag behind the logo. When worn in the traditional position, this places the pouch in the natural place for your hand to grab when you go to chalk up. It's also a dual mode chalk bag, since the chalk pouch can be unzipped and half the mouth of the pouch attached to the other side of the bag to hold it open. This way you can also have access to loose chalk should you want it. The best of both worlds - socked or loose.

The Hula also has two innovations. The first is that it has a 360° chalk sock tube, so that no matter where you put your hand in, you can grab it and chalk up. The second is that it has two 180° external zippers making it super easy to add chalk. For those who frequently reposition their bag (boulderers & trad climbers in chimneys and off-widths), this bag is probably the better option.

Both chalk bags are super burly, meticulously detailed, and constructed out of heavy-duty nylon. Both have a holder for the handle of a small brush if you're a "pad person" and come with a waist belt. I personally like the Kangaroo which gives me the dual option of a chalk in a sock or loose. Other people will likely prefer the 360 degree chalk sock option.

Here's a short video that gives a bit more info:

Here's a link on to the manufacturer's website. Our own store page will also link you directly to their website. Check them out - I can't recommend the bags highly enough. Support your fellow climbers and entrepreneurs. It's through climbing community support of great ideas like this (and Gstrings!) that we can keep innovation alive and great new products coming.

Oh…and I'm not the only one who thinks it's a great product - so does Mr. Honnold!

Friday, March 21, 2014

What New Products is SICgrips Envisioning for the Future?

Where is SICgrips headed in the future? give you a hint, here's an outline of some proposednew grip models and devices. Sorry, no timeline is available yet. These may or may not result in production models for sale but thought we'd leak a few tidbits just so that you know we're not resting on the accolades of the current Gstring models (or out climbing all the time!) We continue to push the envelope on innovation in training devices for climbers.

Where is SICgrips headed in the future? Well…to give you a hint, here's an outline of some proposed portable grip models and devices that are currently on the drawing board - sorry no timeline available. These may or may not result in production models for sale but thought we'd leak a few tid-bits just so that you know were not resting on the accolades of the current Gstring models (or out climbing all the time!) We continue to push the envelope on innovation in training devices for climbers.

We don't want to give away too much at this point but they're based on the values we established when we started up SICgrips: quality, simplicity, versatility, and functional beauty. Most of the proposed grips will feature some type of 3D adjustability along with some new ideas and and maybe a variety of materials. They're listed in descending order of size in relation to our two current products. These are working names for the most part and may or may not be renamed: 

Ladder Rocks
Gstring PRO 
Gstring Classic (original)
*Chock Rocks (probably the next product out) 
Gstring Minis (or Pocket Rocks)

Beside these, we're in the think and test stage of the following products will utilize the grips listed above and/or traditional climbing holds:

Gstring Gallows (folding doorway hanger for Gstrings and mount for holds/hangboards)
Crack Rack
Virtual Gstring Campus Bar

Stay tuned…

Also, we'll soon be sharing a way to easily and accurately set Gstrings in order to record and track your training.

Friday, February 14, 2014

Lowering Gstrings for Additional Exercises

Gstrings are incredibly versatile. However, I suspect that most users don't utilize them to their maximum potential, and most people have probably not tried the exercises shown below because of the need to lower the Gstrings. For more discussion of these exercises and positions go here and scroll down to Building block exercises and Core strengthening.

hanging push-up       
mantle / press-up
overhang pull-up
undercling step-up

Lowering the Gstrings can seem like an extra hassle, but with one of the methods listed below it's quite easy and uses very little extra equipment. Here are seven possible ways of lowering your Gstrings. Each has its own pros and cons. Hopefully you can find one that suits your requirements:
  1. CARGO TIE-DOWN STRAPS ($7-$30) - Purchase from a hardware or large department store.  PROS: quick release buckles makes it easy to adjust; no need for 'biner to attach the grips if they come with a "J" hook on at least one of the ends. CONS: Extra tail or loop (depending upon configuration) hangs down; cost; made for holding cargo, not humans. The ratings are way beyond the stresses exerted on them by hanging or doing pull-ups, however use at your own risk. 
  2. PURCELL PRUSIK - Make from 5mm-7mm accessory cord. First tie the ends with a Frost Knot or a Figure Eight to form a hang loop. Then proceed according to the linked diagram to tie the Prusik on the loop of cord.: PROS: nice and neat - no loose ends hanging down; quick to adjust; can also be used as an adjustable tether at belay stations for multi-pitch climbing. CONS: limited adjustment range; uses almost twice as much rope as the blake-hitch method; 'biner is needed to connect grips. 
  3. BLAKE HITCH - Made from 5mm-7mm accessory cord with Figure-Eight on the bight to form a loop to hang grips from. PROS: wide range of adjustment; uses smaller length of cord than Purcell Prusik option. CONS: extra tail hanging down; length can only be adjusted up to half its tied length; 'biner is needed to connect Gstrings.T
  4. CLIMBING ROPE + PRUSIK - Use a piece of old climbing rope with figure-eight loop for hanging and an overhand stopper knot in the end. Then attach a small Prusik Loop made with 5mm-7mm accessory cord to slide up and down the rope for adjustability. PROS: Simple to tie and set up; widest range of adjustments possible for a given length of cord; climbing rope piece can also be used for Chris Parson's workout. CONS: extra tail always hangs down; 'biner needed to connect Gstrings.
  5. CLIMBING SLING - Use a climbing sling (double length is probably best) with an overhand knot(s) to adjust the length and/or add a fixed position or two for different exercises. PROS: most trad climbers already have slings; simplest; fullproof and secure - no worries of a friction knot slipping. CONS: least adjustable; need to tie extra over-hand knots for additional mounting points; need 'biner to connect Gstrings.
  6. TIED LOOP of ACCESSORY CORD or TIED SLING OF WEBBING - Use a Double Fisherman's Bend (cord) or Water Knot (webbing) to make loop. Tie additional over-hand knots along loop to make multiple clip-in points if desired. PROS: most climbers have extra cord or webbing lying around; foolproof and secure - no worries of a friction knot slipping; simple. CONS: not adjustable on the fly; need 'biner to connect Gstrings.
  7. DAISY CHAINS - Only if you happen to have two daisy chains already. PROS: simple and effective CONS: Expensive if you have to buy them; may not lower the grips as far as desired for some of the exercises.

If you're tying your own loop with cord or webbing, you'll need to figure out the maximum amount of cord needed so the grips will hang at the lowest position desired. Remember to take into account the length of the grips including the hang loop and 'biner. Also, remember that you'll need significantly more cord to allow for knots. Prusiks, Figure Eight, Blake Hitches, Frost, and Water Knots all use a considerable amount of extra cord.

Hopefully this will give a range of ideas for how to lower your Gstrings and experience more of their versatility. If you have other methods for lowering your Gstrings - please let us know!

NOTE: When using Gstrings in a horizontal or prone position make sure to use some type of padding underneath you as a safety precaution.

The security and safety of all knots depend upon: the knowledge of the tier; the knot being properly dressed; using the proper type and size of cord; and the strength of the anchor point.

Tuesday, November 19, 2013

Making a Gstring Backboard

SICgrips is committed to innovating and providing the most versatile training products for climbers. Our goal from the beginning has been to target products for people who aren’t able to put up a home climbing wall, who travel a lot, who want an alternative to the traditional hangboard, or who want more flexibility in mounting. This includes those (like students, renters, or those with fussy partners!) who can’t or don’t want to put holes in their walls. :-) When it's possible to feasibly market these products, we will. When it's not feasible for whatever reason, then we’ll provide basic instructions for the do-it-yourself types to make themselves. This is the first of several projects that we'll share over the next few months.

Gstring Backboard features:

  • provides a higher mounting point for the Gstrings, allowing more clearance for hanging
  • easy to put up and take down
  • provides a semi-rigid mount so Gstrings are similar to actual rock or hang boards.
  • stores easily behind an open door, in a closet or underneath a bed
  • easy to mount and dismount the Gstrings
  • cheap to make

While there are both permanent and temporary ways to mount Gstrings, we've heard from some users that when Gstrings are hung from a doorway pull-up bar, they don't have enough clearance to hang even with bent knees. The Gstring Backboard is one way to address this issue. It requires one of the many versions of popular doorway pull-up bars that cam and apply pressure to the top and front of the doorway trim and are easy to put up and take down. Many climbers already have one but if you don't, they can be purchased for $15-30 from sporting goods or department stores, or Ebay.

Items needed 
(total cost ~$15 depending upon what you have on hand):

  • modified Iron Gym-type pull-up bar (see below)
  • basic hand or power wood- and metal-working tools
  • 2' x 2' x ¾" piece of birch plywood (or equiv. hardwood)
  • 2" x 2" x 10' pine for Backboard frame and crossbar
  • #8 wood screws or 1 ½" nails
  • 2 pcs. - 5/16 " x 2 ½" lag screws (hang bolts for Gstring hang loops)
  • wood glue
  • 2 pcs. - ⅛" x  1.5" x 4" mild steel for pivot plates (available from your local hardware store in a 3' long strip)
  • 2 pcs. - ¼" x 2 ½ " hanger bolts with wing nuts and large washers for pivot plate
  • 2 pcs. - ¼  x 2" lag bolts with washers for pivot plate

(This won't be a comprehensive step-by-step set of instructions because the Backboard is fairly simple to make. I'll cover a few specific things that may not be obvious.)

Modifying pull bar:

The dimensions given here are based on the doorway in my home. You’ll need to modify to fit your specific situation.
Remove the foam padding from indicated areas. Cut the horizontal handles off the pull-up bar with a hack saw or saber saw with a metal cutting blade, so there’s ¾" left beyond the center of the bolt hole. The photo shows ⅞", however ¾" is probably better so that it's doesn't run into the plywood backboard when mounted. (With the handles cut off, it can still be used as a pull-up bar using the center foam grip position).

Reverse the horizontal crossbar. Instead of it attaching to the bottom of the curved uprights (the normal way), attach it to the top of the crossbar. This will raise the backboard 2".

Cut plywood to 16" x 24". It could be made a bit taller (18" x 24") or it could be made slightly smaller 14" x 24"). If you have a wider piece of plywood, it could also be made as wide as your doorway). If you’re using the Backboard with the Gstring PROs, it will need to be at least 16” - 17” tall.

Drill a 1" hole in the vertical frame supports exactly in the middle lengthwise. Drill it so the edge of the hole is even with the edge of the wood. Remove excess from hole to edge of wood so that it becomes a 1" slot to slide onto the pull-up crossbar.

Drill a 5/16" hole in the pivot plate and then cut out a diagonal slot from the edge of the plate to the hole. This may need to be a little wider than 5/16" at the edge so it can pivot on the bolt and lock with the wingnut. The plate pivots open to mount on the pull-up bar and then close and lock with a couple turns of the wingnut.



  • A washer was added to the hang loop to protect it from threads on the Backboard hang bolt. Then the hang loop was re-tied to make it as small as possible.
  • I added tape to bottom of board so the edge is more visible - anyone 5'11" or taller needs to duck :-)
  • I added a strip of yoga mat on ends of horizontal wood bar to protect the doorway from being scratched and dented. 
  • If you use the Backboard with Gstring PROs, you'll want to make sure
    that the board is at least 16"-17" tall because of their length. Instead of a vertically mounted hanger bolt, you'll want to use lag bolts and mount them horizontally at the top of the board face going into the top frame member. This will allow you to conveniently hang the 'biners on them.

  • t-nuts for mounting resin climbing holds, campus strips, or hangboard
  • a wider piece of plywood (up to width of doorway) can be used, though it will add weight and bulk). No matter what size of backboard you design, the pull-up horizontal bar should always be located in the middle vertically.
  • a set of hardwood edge strips could be added to simulate Eva Lopez's Progression or Transgression boards. Access to a table saw would be needed in order to accurately cut a set. The Gstrings could still be hung and accessed even with the edges if designed correctly. She has a done a lot of research and has come up with an effective finger strength training program based on this type of board. The drawback is that it only trains edges. However her blog has a wealth of information for training in general.

You might want to check our website to see examples of other non-permanent alternatives for mounting Gstrings if you haven’t already seen them :
In the near future we'll include instructions for how to make a similar type doorway mounted backboard, that doesn't use a pull-up bar. Stay tuned.

Make and use at your own risk. SICgrips makes no claims, explicit or implied, as to the safety of the Backboard for you and your situation because there are too many variables, including: strength of door frame casing; strength of doorway trim; climber’s weight and how the climber uses the backboard; what brand of pull-up bar is used and its strength rating; and the size, construction quality and materials used. When using the Backboard, do not use huge dynamic moments as it could stress the Backboard, pull-bar, and doorway beyond what it can hold. I am fairly light (135 lb.) so my use is not a good "yardstick" by which to determine your use of it. You can do a "hillbilly" test to help determine the strength of doorway trim by doing finger pull-ups on it to see how it reacts. This will stress it more than the backboard will. Gstring Climbing Grips are rated for climbers weighing 225 lb. or less. Therefore the Gstring Backboard combination should be below that limit. However, due to other factors mentioned above, it could be even less.

Friday, October 18, 2013

Converting Classics to PROs

With the introduction of the Gstring PRO model coming in November and the new RipCord quick-release adjustment system, we're offering instructions for those who have Gstring "Classic" grips and would like to convert them from the Prusik hang loop to the new RipCord adjustment system. While the Classic version will remain the most versatile, some may prefer the ease of adjusting of the new RipCord system. Before starting the conversion, it would be good to review the differences in the previous blog post to see which is best for you. Most materials can be obtained online through various sources or through your local outdoor and hardware stores. We'll also be offering a conversion kit in the near future to make it easier for users. It will include everything necessary for the conversion except the 'biners (see below).


RipCord Update Kit from SICgrips store, OR the following items:
  • 4 - 1" i.d. (inside diameter) x 3/16" (4mm-5mm) thick stainless steel rings. You may be able to get a thinner nickel-plated steel version of these at a hardware store. If thinner, they may not adjust quite as easily and will not be as strong...but should work (use at your own risk).
  • 11' of 5mm extremely flexible accessory cord - the best brands we've tried are Sterling and New England (Maxim). Some of the other brands such as BlueWater are stiffer and will be difficult to adjust using the RipCord system. Smoothness and flexibility of the cord are the keys to ease of adjustment. 
  • 3 feet of 3mm accessory cord.
  • the cord-lock tube that you'll remove from the existing 3D-Sling cord.
  • 4 - 3" pieces of 1/4" I.D. vinyl tubing to serve as cord protectors to prevent abrasion of the 3D-Sling cord by the StikGrip.
Whether you purchase the update kit or the individual items above, you'll also need:
  • 2 oval or 2 symmetrical pear 'biners. NOTE: D or modified D 'biners; asymmetrical pear 'biners; or small 'biners should not be used. They will cause the cords to bind and may be difficult or near impossible to adjust. If you don't have any of these biners and don't need the light weight aluminum 'biners for portability, ClimbTech's steel oval is excellent and reasonably priced.


  1. Take off previous 3D-Sling cord, by either by pulling out and untying the knots inside of the crimper or by cutting cord and pulling knot out the end. Save the short 5" cord-lock tube that you'll re-use.
  2. Cut the 5mm cord into two equal 64" pieces. Melt the ends making sure that the end result is not larger than the diameter of the cord itself. When the melted ends are still molten, roll on a yogurt container lid or thin piece of cardboard to form into a neat, small diameter end. This is important or it will not be able to go through cord lock tube or the vinyl tubing in the next step. Be careful of the molten nylon before it cools - it burns!
  3. Thread new cord through cord-lock tube. Wetting the cord and tube with soapy water will help it go through easier.
  4. Position the cord lock tube so both legs of cord are exactly equal in length.
  5. Thread cord ends through holes in bottom of grip and make sure cord lock tube is pressed flat against bottom of grip. The cord lock tube may slightly bow but the ends should be flat (locked ) against the bottom of the grip.
  6. Recheck to make sure both legs of the cord are equal. If not, pop up the cord-lock tube and pull a small amount of cord through tube to adjust. Press cord-lock tube back against bottom of grip again.
  7. If using vinyl tubing cord protectors, thread one on each cord leg.
  8. Thread both ends of cord together through the 1-1/4" stainless steel ring
  9. Thread the end of each cord through the smaller 1" ring, crossing them where they go through. Each cord end should end up on the opposite side of the grip. This is crucial.
  10. Thread on the last two vinyl tubing cord protectors.
  11. Thread ends of cords through the holes in the hollow of the crimper.
  12. Tie an overhand knot with 1/4" tail in the end of each cord, then push the knot inside the crimper and tighten by pulling.

  13. Take strands A & B and bring them together underneath and inside of the other two strands as shown below:

  14. At this point, make sure the large ring is oriented like this. Note the other two strands of cord come up through the large ring from right to left.

    NOT like this, left to right. If it is wrong, simply flop the ring over the other way from left to right to orient correctly.
  15. Make a loop by pushing strands A and B up through the larger ring between the existing two strands coming through the larger ring. You will now have four strands of cord together that form a loop.

  16. Clip a 'biner through the four-strand loop that you just created. It should look like this:
  17. Cut the 3' piece of 3mm cord into two 18" pieces and melt the ends.
  18. Place both ends of one of the 18" pieces of 3mm cord together and tie an overhand knot an inch or two from the end. Repeat with the other 18" piece of 3mm cord.
  19. Girth-hitch the 3mm cord loop to the smaller ring. This forms the RipCord, that when pulled, will release tension on the 3D-Sling cords so the grip can be easily adjusted. The end result should look like this:

Note: Once you insert the 'biner in the 3D-Sling, do not remove! If you do, the adjustment system will collapse and no longer function. To reassemble again, repeat steps 13-16.


Pull RipCord 5"-6" with one hand to unlock the cords, while at the same time keeping tension on the grip with the other hand, rotating it to desired position. When desired angle is achieved, pull on grip to lock 3D-Sling cords again before using. If changing the grip drastically (i.e. rotating it 180 degrees from crimper to flat edge, or vice-a-versa, or rotating 90 degrees to a vertical pinch), it may take a couple of rocking/seesaw motions consisting of pulling ripcord while rotating grip, then pulling ripcord again with another slight rotation of the grip. Once you get the hang of it, it'll offer an extremely quick and easy method for changing grip positions.