tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29291475469691155802024-03-12T23:59:58.679-05:00SICgripsUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger45125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-15953505593129870472024-02-19T22:40:00.012-05:002024-03-06T10:40:59.244-05:00Further Adventures of: the Trango Vergo for TRS AND LRS<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtzgSUFCmQg7NIfSt3gkgdrCgZAhR7KR2NTvd0sEYPd7p3H7PK53K3ESYrvZt_lG9UlCv0HyptQfyLxu0WKZMPYUj3khUw3Fc0XVE1HpzwMZAPY-nZrPgWy62ubV_KDqeFo2OjRZh_L5b7eJ0E5KoYeEkkbmtGoemppHw-qYUgiJzTPk04CMl7KWgvMdY/s1689/20240217_145053-01b.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1689" data-original-width="1338" height="847" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtzgSUFCmQg7NIfSt3gkgdrCgZAhR7KR2NTvd0sEYPd7p3H7PK53K3ESYrvZt_lG9UlCv0HyptQfyLxu0WKZMPYUj3khUw3Fc0XVE1HpzwMZAPY-nZrPgWy62ubV_KDqeFo2OjRZh_L5b7eJ0E5KoYeEkkbmtGoemppHw-qYUgiJzTPk04CMl7KWgvMdY/w670-h847/20240217_145053-01b.jpeg" width="670" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><p>Four years ago I wrote a blog post on the using the Vergo for TRS. This is an update to that blog and new material on using it for LRS also. If you’re not familiar with the Vergo or using it for TRS, I suggest that you read and digest my previous blog first. <a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2020/08/vergo-for-top-rope-soloing.html ">https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2020/08/vergo-for-top-rope-soloing.html </a>All the same warnings apply here. <span style="color: red;">The Vergo is not made for rope soloing and the manufacturer has explicitly warned against such use. It will void the warranty, and you could likely be injured or killed by using it beyond the manufacturers design parameters and instructions. With that out of the way, onward. You’re been warned.</span></p>In the first part I’d like to update my setup for TRS. In the past I was using a 1.5 - 1.75 accessory cord loop tied around the release handle housing. I was using as small a diameter cord as possible (given what I I had on hand) in order to keep it from rubbing on the side plate as it rotated when locking up. I have since switched to using 1.0-1.1 dyneema. It’s smaller, slicker and stronger. This further insures that it will not rub and interfere with the rotation of the side plate. I tie ~ 2" loop and use a overhand knot, then burn the ends and use a drop of super glue on the knot. The second change I’ve made, is that instead of fixing it to the handle housing, I now either clove of girth hitch it to the small ‘biner/clip that I use to attach the Vergo to the chest harness/sling. It stays attached there and to put it on the Vergo I slip the loop over handle and onto the handle shaft housing. When switching to Lead mode, I take the loop off the hand and leave it attached to the 'biner/clip on the chest harness. This allows for two incremental improvements. 1) it keeps it out of the way when the Vergo is used for LRS and, 2) if the Vergo is used for normal belaying there is one less thing to get in the way. If you are only using the Vergo for TRS and not for LRS or normal belaying, tying it to the handle axle housing as before is still a valid way to go.<div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt5eLlrKDqA55M16npRMDnOgcVeMxplX8w6qB-TweU14kaJ6NJx_Y5R0y8JZQczWL9JKeRfLRbj6J5TAjeYWDT1hDyW0DOLUhli1Yl8rlH6x2N87xg_B3YXFgxhRyBY9TD0PXYl6bIFLtU0X42duKswqT4ZNOKGaDe_tBxwp38PblHPy5plOLZ02jRx2s/s1627/20240217_100524-01.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1627" data-original-width="1369" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt5eLlrKDqA55M16npRMDnOgcVeMxplX8w6qB-TweU14kaJ6NJx_Y5R0y8JZQczWL9JKeRfLRbj6J5TAjeYWDT1hDyW0DOLUhli1Yl8rlH6x2N87xg_B3YXFgxhRyBY9TD0PXYl6bIFLtU0X42duKswqT4ZNOKGaDe_tBxwp38PblHPy5plOLZ02jRx2s/s320/20240217_100524-01.jpeg" width="269" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMRWXQbUIKWIx3HeTwbIrdDQsaTbDuf1SplQDibV5qsT-IsDzPyXhTOEmptK7epPMiIPp4tYl9jicfd7DHBOCOlrO3fko2DDPJ4xNdXSEVeFC-FL4LUrpwtD9l9pXgn3Q3c893boA5fRteb7M5nnytdBYPhpeUpA_m1WWgydbp741AZhZhCs19diyeA70/s3044/20240217_150545-01.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3044" data-original-width="2580" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMRWXQbUIKWIx3HeTwbIrdDQsaTbDuf1SplQDibV5qsT-IsDzPyXhTOEmptK7epPMiIPp4tYl9jicfd7DHBOCOlrO3fko2DDPJ4xNdXSEVeFC-FL4LUrpwtD9l9pXgn3Q3c893boA5fRteb7M5nnytdBYPhpeUpA_m1WWgydbp741AZhZhCs19diyeA70/s320/20240217_150545-01.jpeg" width="271" /></a><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Jc9qGVmqUDkDniG79l5IdCr9AnFNrA7heOl2f5WE0nR6yJND7jGKkeF8lahnJTmlh2BOpH9rJSmQQy6Zrimis6rO0p8t585Bzwa71gLNyrmGEmtx4E2n8Br4URj47WB2rKNxKbdknoDhsxllgf8Bu2jfamaqPazM0KGEdsuzr6gW77byvLhdepFdKLE/s1987/20240217_102723-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1987" data-original-width="1604" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Jc9qGVmqUDkDniG79l5IdCr9AnFNrA7heOl2f5WE0nR6yJND7jGKkeF8lahnJTmlh2BOpH9rJSmQQy6Zrimis6rO0p8t585Bzwa71gLNyrmGEmtx4E2n8Br4URj47WB2rKNxKbdknoDhsxllgf8Bu2jfamaqPazM0KGEdsuzr6gW77byvLhdepFdKLE/s320/20240217_102723-01.jpeg" width="258" /></a></div>The other changes I’ve made to the Vergo TRS system is I’ve gone to using an auto-locking DMM Ceros ‘biner to attach it to my harness and I’m also using Avant Climbing’s Flex-Link anti-crossroad protectors to keep it centered on the ‘biner. <a href="https://avantclimbing.com/products/flex-link-anti-crossload-protector">https://avantclimbing.com/products/flex-link-anti-crossload-protector</a> This is even more important for LRS and the higher possible forces that can be incurred during a fall.</div><div><br /></div><div>OK, now onto the main new info. While people have used the Vergo’s predecessor the Cinch for LRS, it was not popular because of some known weaknesses - mainly, there had been some accidents with people using it for normal belaying. Also, it was known that the steel pin that is used for pinching/breaking the rope, was made of a softer steel, that over time, wore down and caused it to slip. Also, the release handle on the Cinch was extremely small and was hard to use due to the amount of pressure needed and the lack of control. These things were all remedied in the latest version of the Vergo. The new hardened steel pin wears extremely well.<br /><br /><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl98kgZ5K_Ehyphenhyphen8RUpmW7a18eXpMbNS5xBxa5zz0Xiyla8jxFNF5lNiEeTD_4tSQTGtDMJTUNAk05MmufRjvv5w_66iBYOp6YJXUuJDgQd1akyRVYiGbKgekglKmn2KWNViNHZCnfM3x3pfpvCUYlmVnPJQSfpGF4TLOwGg6rea4Rgdv97veWd2AzXSzXA/s963/Screenshot_20231123_112713_Facebook-01.jpeg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="963" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl98kgZ5K_Ehyphenhyphen8RUpmW7a18eXpMbNS5xBxa5zz0Xiyla8jxFNF5lNiEeTD_4tSQTGtDMJTUNAk05MmufRjvv5w_66iBYOp6YJXUuJDgQd1akyRVYiGbKgekglKmn2KWNViNHZCnfM3x3pfpvCUYlmVnPJQSfpGF4TLOwGg6rea4Rgdv97veWd2AzXSzXA/s320/Screenshot_20231123_112713_Facebook-01.jpeg" width="239" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">(Yann Camus / Bliss Climbing)</span></td></tr></tbody></table>Recently I’ve seen renewed interested in using the Vergo for LRS. While there is still much derision by some that it is an inferior device and even dangerous, after seeing a recent Vergo LRS setup my interest was peaked to try using it for LRS. The main piece of info that was missing for me was how to suspend and hold it up so that it that it would feed and lock-up. Using the TRS loop or just letting it hang from belay loop on a ‘biner, both were horrible for LRS feed. On a post on the LRS FB list, one poster suggested that if the plastic thumb button were pried off, it would expose a hole through the hollow axle that a piece of cord could be threaded through, which could then be connected to a chest harness. (this makes it similar to the Cinch.) This allowed it to feed well for LRS. However, their setup appeared awkward and less than optimal to me so I experimented until I came up with the current version seen at the start of the blog and below. With my setup it's easy to transition between LRS and TRS (see below).</div><div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgStWOmSqk7TCGRsGTb5F9Qik6PKw1zIG3tHSDkwyonSXpCbbFpgTkA32YtGr0MWSzICtoK09y3QIN1gXu81NryQAX8aQkp3gboEaXnRQHsDHUTcpxiq1VsN0rdgFHwhPN4JBqu4qZIHCyF5JTovOwwbX5rMnbck8flI9dOfE8JH3CO65Nal7ReT9dnjsU/s1514/Vergo%20thumb%20rest.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1168" data-original-width="1514" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgStWOmSqk7TCGRsGTb5F9Qik6PKw1zIG3tHSDkwyonSXpCbbFpgTkA32YtGr0MWSzICtoK09y3QIN1gXu81NryQAX8aQkp3gboEaXnRQHsDHUTcpxiq1VsN0rdgFHwhPN4JBqu4qZIHCyF5JTovOwwbX5rMnbck8flI9dOfE8JH3CO65Nal7ReT9dnjsU/s320/Vergo%20thumb%20rest.jpeg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgStWOmSqk7TCGRsGTb5F9Qik6PKw1zIG3tHSDkwyonSXpCbbFpgTkA32YtGr0MWSzICtoK09y3QIN1gXu81NryQAX8aQkp3gboEaXnRQHsDHUTcpxiq1VsN0rdgFHwhPN4JBqu4qZIHCyF5JTovOwwbX5rMnbck8flI9dOfE8JH3CO65Nal7ReT9dnjsU/s1514/Vergo%20thumb%20rest.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgStWOmSqk7TCGRsGTb5F9Qik6PKw1zIG3tHSDkwyonSXpCbbFpgTkA32YtGr0MWSzICtoK09y3QIN1gXu81NryQAX8aQkp3gboEaXnRQHsDHUTcpxiq1VsN0rdgFHwhPN4JBqu4qZIHCyF5JTovOwwbX5rMnbck8flI9dOfE8JH3CO65Nal7ReT9dnjsU/s1514/Vergo%20thumb%20rest.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgStWOmSqk7TCGRsGTb5F9Qik6PKw1zIG3tHSDkwyonSXpCbbFpgTkA32YtGr0MWSzICtoK09y3QIN1gXu81NryQAX8aQkp3gboEaXnRQHsDHUTcpxiq1VsN0rdgFHwhPN4JBqu4qZIHCyF5JTovOwwbX5rMnbck8flI9dOfE8JH3CO65Nal7ReT9dnjsU/s1514/Vergo%20thumb%20rest.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgStWOmSqk7TCGRsGTb5F9Qik6PKw1zIG3tHSDkwyonSXpCbbFpgTkA32YtGr0MWSzICtoK09y3QIN1gXu81NryQAX8aQkp3gboEaXnRQHsDHUTcpxiq1VsN0rdgFHwhPN4JBqu4qZIHCyF5JTovOwwbX5rMnbck8flI9dOfE8JH3CO65Nal7ReT9dnjsU/s1514/Vergo%20thumb%20rest.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgStWOmSqk7TCGRsGTb5F9Qik6PKw1zIG3tHSDkwyonSXpCbbFpgTkA32YtGr0MWSzICtoK09y3QIN1gXu81NryQAX8aQkp3gboEaXnRQHsDHUTcpxiq1VsN0rdgFHwhPN4JBqu4qZIHCyF5JTovOwwbX5rMnbck8flI9dOfE8JH3CO65Nal7ReT9dnjsU/s1514/Vergo%20thumb%20rest.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div></div><div>The black plastic button can be pried off by carefully by inserting a wide flat blade screwdriver underneath it and gradually twisting the blade. It will pop the clip and plastic rivet off (which can be seen on the inside of the axle). While it won’t hurt the function of the Vergo, and it can still be used for normal belaying, it will permanently remove the thumb rest and you’ll not be able to replace it. After it is removed there will be a 3-4mm hole through the center of the axle/pivot. This will be used to attached a new loop of cord that will be used to connect to a chest harness for LRS. This new connection point give extremely easy rope feed.</div><div><br /></div><div>I used a 10-12” piece of 3mm cord with the core removed to make the new loop. Strength is not that important since it is only required to hold the device upright while climbing. That means it only needs to hold the weight of the device and rope feeding from the cache loop. It DOES NOT need to hold the weight of a fall - that is held by the ‘biner through the Vergo and belay loop. A 3mm cord without its core when tied with a Water knot is just the right size to be crammed down into the hollow and stay put out of the way. The process looks like this:<br /><br />Tape both ends of the cord tightly with painters or masking tape. Cut through the taped end of the cord to give a clean cut.<br /><br /><img border="0" data-original-height="1775" data-original-width="2199" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8nio3WHLBux8uocSe55dcNHMgDmwi5on-giUQl4ix4H-jYz3qjhQpQjIqzghX_xulAXgf0ZS9AfcMStzS0jvFQPdl6RQSjBEwi-rzdiymeoFb2MbH0YMClII4n8VUBexCLjb94vnHURWF8H8vCfZckYfr1VihiAolnHvhkNp0A6nL0NbzbfT2rvid0Fw/s320/20240217_101719-01.jpeg" width="320" /></div><br /><br />Take off tape from each end and pull the core out.<div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2151" data-original-width="2409" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzusSFGHcapkBrtqXzfLJPY4JIFFu6-njqoLqGT3Qt3ivyPYzTe3wUBDiqY-geYFQKUJjuaidCy2WAnWp4A2_7KfXgTNFYHnc6ep0_7-peU__aG1eigRenOTEbrTkaO-FPRTO4GCQ4nqJcGmb93OXV5RWluCWV7U-xr37BCtFFx7pn-FWqtk3vcW1fsL0/s320/20240217_101826-01.jpeg" width="320" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Tie an overhand knot about 2" from end of cord then insert the cord through hole in the Vergo so the knot is on the gray steel side of the Vergo. (These photos were taken with a piece of cord after I had already threaded and rigged mine up.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAnri1sfy6DkZvq9gCmaGCSI60xXoK-DKrTTNVKinaHLk0OgKCIGieO9aRc6PfHHUbdRnlzu5IwuIUfxyDcVvvWm5bpTnuUl_YPO87cpQlnPapf00YtU-tUlZ0VRBACvLQwAUiHqNkbntEAv-wGBYTQpJ-iMuLdaj5y_-9lD4aLgbfXfcRJebWAewojGo/s2512/20240220_085957-01-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2146" data-original-width="2512" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAnri1sfy6DkZvq9gCmaGCSI60xXoK-DKrTTNVKinaHLk0OgKCIGieO9aRc6PfHHUbdRnlzu5IwuIUfxyDcVvvWm5bpTnuUl_YPO87cpQlnPapf00YtU-tUlZ0VRBACvLQwAUiHqNkbntEAv-wGBYTQpJ-iMuLdaj5y_-9lD4aLgbfXfcRJebWAewojGo/s320/20240220_085957-01-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>Rethread the other end through the knot in the opposite direction of the overhand knot. (This makes it a Water knot.) Dress the knot so that it makes approximately a 2” diameter loop<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNbjAHhWHE_LKxuYE9KCzOFyr7rZdHyssZRCdMcY8noLeUmwFdG9cN0Qdln4oD-ntupgaFW-FlN99BUR4UPXoNO1QEp8EJYBK9DDHbobBYoVvAmYXvc8Oh2PkpNWOeCqPZdWyyqu2zEIo-dM7uEWALiEVpF3eHwR-1m1firYPxL30bP9tdzbf0CrOK8gQ/s1704/20240217_102327-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1584" data-original-width="1704" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNbjAHhWHE_LKxuYE9KCzOFyr7rZdHyssZRCdMcY8noLeUmwFdG9cN0Qdln4oD-ntupgaFW-FlN99BUR4UPXoNO1QEp8EJYBK9DDHbobBYoVvAmYXvc8Oh2PkpNWOeCqPZdWyyqu2zEIo-dM7uEWALiEVpF3eHwR-1m1firYPxL30bP9tdzbf0CrOK8gQ/s320/20240217_102327-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>Cut the end of the rope that will be facing inside the hollow so it’s about 1/2” and burn the end until it turns into a molten blob and acts as a stopper for the knot.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUlMkQ4Plc0EbQq3CCcWRQpMbO7Q6oidkEFTWW4rmF7Od9zEK8P6Grem2RDlPeyo-KOhVCEKNn0vA-FZ6lj3U0IGHR-TxGeSupGm-U_Are46-aW-LPPIRrQeYpwDp8JVhchm787PczuvnXVvNoOx2SAN6wymJ82PpXmwNiYilJQ2GJn-DtLFI3UneSaHU/s2026/20240217_102614-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1876" data-original-width="2026" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUlMkQ4Plc0EbQq3CCcWRQpMbO7Q6oidkEFTWW4rmF7Od9zEK8P6Grem2RDlPeyo-KOhVCEKNn0vA-FZ6lj3U0IGHR-TxGeSupGm-U_Are46-aW-LPPIRrQeYpwDp8JVhchm787PczuvnXVvNoOx2SAN6wymJ82PpXmwNiYilJQ2GJn-DtLFI3UneSaHU/s320/20240217_102614-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div><div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div>After it cools, jam the knot down into the hollow and seat it down in as far as possible.<br />Cut the outside end short and burn it to form a molten stopper blob. The end result should look like this with a smooth loop of cord and the knot hidden out of the way:</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_ZjO2WeeiNjlgZ79QYWRimm7wQSFIqWXzfr9wz1Z8apcynRDxGMhGjN2OoWrI4Ro6q7egOdjzTq93CSyD7b6C3BqEywhn4xDZfb4p1Upj8ARBY1IbdTEzMK4JCn6fR2zmLSSHKha7bjxdoT4FR3bCShqNgD2IGFev2mk0B-P5MELj-DAU3mQ9YI18ArM/s2043/20240217_100736-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1951" data-original-width="2043" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_ZjO2WeeiNjlgZ79QYWRimm7wQSFIqWXzfr9wz1Z8apcynRDxGMhGjN2OoWrI4Ro6q7egOdjzTq93CSyD7b6C3BqEywhn4xDZfb4p1Upj8ARBY1IbdTEzMK4JCn6fR2zmLSSHKha7bjxdoT4FR3bCShqNgD2IGFev2mk0B-P5MELj-DAU3mQ9YI18ArM/s320/20240217_100736-01.jpeg" width="320" /> </a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn1XBIpj7akDn1Z8xTzbHJ1SbFypBoPJh_7v-X5b9VqwxaJ-TyYZYanuQezQxTd8emYlMb6Kf2MgCIE00SmY7ubeyHpPx4CyggydStkPexDP9IaIAY82aN9K3vefQBvjxOO8OHTYyjomqSyBieVLogQu_evZ3DZHsNPXuf9G-T2bP2pNbOKurCYD8yP3c/s2003/20240217_100652-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1891" data-original-width="2003" height="305" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn1XBIpj7akDn1Z8xTzbHJ1SbFypBoPJh_7v-X5b9VqwxaJ-TyYZYanuQezQxTd8emYlMb6Kf2MgCIE00SmY7ubeyHpPx4CyggydStkPexDP9IaIAY82aN9K3vefQBvjxOO8OHTYyjomqSyBieVLogQu_evZ3DZHsNPXuf9G-T2bP2pNbOKurCYD8yP3c/w323-h305/20240217_100652-01.jpeg" width="323" /></a></div></div><div><br /></div><br /></div><div>My current setup looks like this:</div><div><br /></div><div> LEAD mode</div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuHj4sz8CfrxBXWG9YbEIzjs-srYFVrM7RF6e1yuGl-ZfPIuYWJgH4VAedtUh8ZmupQ_0jxlssetl4S1TpFNflY5PFv1u9LzzTT52wSM9TL4YqiqQJ2xb5q0V7UOb8wMhIiXETkh8WCi5KHvr3uxNy9Fuz6Sn1EOS6YfBl7QC7TRleHGAQTeIu7uxby9I/s2105/20240217_142311-01b.jpeg" style="clear: left; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2105" data-original-width="1797" height="359" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuHj4sz8CfrxBXWG9YbEIzjs-srYFVrM7RF6e1yuGl-ZfPIuYWJgH4VAedtUh8ZmupQ_0jxlssetl4S1TpFNflY5PFv1u9LzzTT52wSM9TL4YqiqQJ2xb5q0V7UOb8wMhIiXETkh8WCi5KHvr3uxNy9Fuz6Sn1EOS6YfBl7QC7TRleHGAQTeIu7uxby9I/w308-h359/20240217_142311-01b.jpeg" width="308" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div> TR mode</div><div><img border="0" data-original-height="2395" data-original-width="1586" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh58SIp7-sVSyt7KW7W07tPe2E8zIyaXTzok7iDDDF05-ocyAYcHU5_bJGU5ryUwArQoUGkhbu1ufe071OntnHss78QQBktcXBrYr5sC12WG7xBlrlfcQLvj6IB5sP95K9q6yGg30aieCd3G2qsv_ZqCO5d0OO3uSXE-vqNRYJ9efTZgnCU7LlhS4_f17k/w238-h360/20240217_141900-01.jpeg" style="text-align: center;" width="238" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5yvwJPmIvkx86FEB3mF3Ph_ZgsImfmAOnGr3LS05Xy7XTskh0uW8B75KB52IP4ra-xub5Ib9bTuUembaBWq-QkOR8c0ZFPyMyWeVbr-c5NqKzHI9Qg8LxfuJCIgLIS0LC4lvPagQ2QBI8nodrUfOAUfdUPIY9ABspW8VJUNYuH0G2W3IwRM7zMpEGZP4/s2105/20240217_142311-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5yvwJPmIvkx86FEB3mF3Ph_ZgsImfmAOnGr3LS05Xy7XTskh0uW8B75KB52IP4ra-xub5Ib9bTuUembaBWq-QkOR8c0ZFPyMyWeVbr-c5NqKzHI9Qg8LxfuJCIgLIS0LC4lvPagQ2QBI8nodrUfOAUfdUPIY9ABspW8VJUNYuH0G2W3IwRM7zMpEGZP4/s2105/20240217_142311-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a></div></div></div><div><br /></div><div>Climbing with the Vergo looks like this:</div><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><ol style="text-align: left;"><li>Climb route </li><li>At top of route fix the rope to the anchor</li><li>Undo MT if used for a cache loop</li><li>Rappel on Vergo and pull gear</li><li>On ground (or at previous anchor) unclip Vergo from chest harness</li><li>Flip Vergo and rope 180 deg. and attach TRS Dyneema loop over the handle so that it is around the steel handle housing.</li><li>Reattach 'biner to the belay loop, and</li><li>Weight rope and climb back up to anchor in TRS mode.</li></ol></blockquote><div>At this stage I have not taken any real whippers on it - just short little test falls. I'm from the generation where the ethos was that you climbed at a level where you don't expect to fall. I'll leave it to you young'ns who are used to whipping while projecting, so please do judicious testing with this setup. Be careful out there!</div><div><br /></div><div>Many people who use a GG, Vergo, Cinch other other improvised device for LRS, often have a fairly taught connection between the belay loop and chest harness. I usually run mine so it's less taught so that the belay loop 'biner is almost slightly free hanging within the belay loop. Initial tests have shown that it might possibly be able to lock up during a headfirst fall if the connection goes slightly slack. This will require further testing with it rigged to a dummy weight and shoved backwards off a cliff. Should this prove reliable, it could be the first device that would allow TRS/ LRS/ and headfirst fall protection. Note however, that this is at the conjecture and initial testing stages, so don't count on it. Even if further testing shows it likely to lock-up in a headfirst fall, there should always still be a reliable backup of some type.</div><div><br /></div><div>Since I consider all this experimental, I'd appreciate any thoughts and experiences you have if you try a similar to this setup. All my experimenting with the Vergo has been with 9.4 - 9.5 ropes. It would be interesting to see how this setup works with small ropes from 8.5 to 9.2. If you experiment with small ropes, do so cautiously. Please post any comments below. Thanks!</div><div> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDROBC9dlJUYnU3iNKdx9j0B1odiXq-M2GGJuWZ1bynq1tvq9QNQSKfiQGWo4CTybuKCoLubMZXtFn5Dne270m4QG3XKvfg7OkcDSX9hkZDHGsm48xQkQiwx5YbftfurBunZ2mEIJwRlhGy5krMMhhkkGCvxXkJEhzAK-zYC5XkV9Cp0_vbFVCr3d4np0/s2240/20231219_123512-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2240" data-original-width="1252" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDROBC9dlJUYnU3iNKdx9j0B1odiXq-M2GGJuWZ1bynq1tvq9QNQSKfiQGWo4CTybuKCoLubMZXtFn5Dne270m4QG3XKvfg7OkcDSX9hkZDHGsm48xQkQiwx5YbftfurBunZ2mEIJwRlhGy5krMMhhkkGCvxXkJEhzAK-zYC5XkV9Cp0_vbFVCr3d4np0/s320/20231219_123512-01.jpeg" width="179" /> </a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFmCtD-Ga52rCiuDBKfcI__sT-TgGpLck_dyR2cH6vZgwGX-VpYngIMhuJjNBNivsZGY8tTgPWe6g5sBf3FoJdhmObYlUF7N-yZ_hLPjbHogaPB4fJGV9qQiDydiN76NRGJ9Rjin3VA07yqG1JT_TQEaCQGtHks8_BjzRkevKboWQLSAkREgy-VfQG1-o/s2210/20231219_123953-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2210" data-original-width="1125" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFmCtD-Ga52rCiuDBKfcI__sT-TgGpLck_dyR2cH6vZgwGX-VpYngIMhuJjNBNivsZGY8tTgPWe6g5sBf3FoJdhmObYlUF7N-yZ_hLPjbHogaPB4fJGV9qQiDydiN76NRGJ9Rjin3VA07yqG1JT_TQEaCQGtHks8_BjzRkevKboWQLSAkREgy-VfQG1-o/s320/20231219_123953-01.jpeg" width="163" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhdCDQfq8bANi-9DCDzKaGQ04uuIcuXOiar6EaZNtMhmsaCuovPwMJKb0yeEpGJR-QSO65xMR5-BilQteEcUS3yDPnfUdtJjD4iTIFePbRNt-RRaxbrtV2Ymm6JX9qCMKB5ou0LlvapD6fkNpG956B8NJmj3DjsrBr5kanRXz7j_SVz83BCyuiGVpEjuU/s2888/20231219_124545-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2888" data-original-width="1300" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhdCDQfq8bANi-9DCDzKaGQ04uuIcuXOiar6EaZNtMhmsaCuovPwMJKb0yeEpGJR-QSO65xMR5-BilQteEcUS3yDPnfUdtJjD4iTIFePbRNt-RRaxbrtV2Ymm6JX9qCMKB5ou0LlvapD6fkNpG956B8NJmj3DjsrBr5kanRXz7j_SVz83BCyuiGVpEjuU/s320/20231219_124545-01.jpeg" width="144" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyGHfUNNRA0Tf51w3uIl9O-Kdf_iMP_7McmPm6AcjZdWpicxwm38m65JKa-1NW4V5ewSdwHQzcXcDUSQyj0PJXCWRqX8Kq0hr7ffBmzxVzfwxNzag_J2rgSnjS12p00NMTvyNBMgRfZI7klbcTw1zNruF8Pb6D7WgVNzV5QoKK6UcRtcXoo0xg3cNtqZA/s2656/20231219_124828-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2656" data-original-width="1502" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyGHfUNNRA0Tf51w3uIl9O-Kdf_iMP_7McmPm6AcjZdWpicxwm38m65JKa-1NW4V5ewSdwHQzcXcDUSQyj0PJXCWRqX8Kq0hr7ffBmzxVzfwxNzag_J2rgSnjS12p00NMTvyNBMgRfZI7klbcTw1zNruF8Pb6D7WgVNzV5QoKK6UcRtcXoo0xg3cNtqZA/s320/20231219_124828-01.jpeg" width="181" /></a><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: red;">Warning: If using knots as a backup with the Vergo, they should be either anchored to the harness / full strength gear loop, or, if on the free line below, they should pass through a quick link on the belay loop or auxiliary belay loop. If not, the knot will jam against the Vergo and because of the nature of the design, it could cause the two halves to blow apart in a high factor fall. This has <b>NOT</b> been observed but IMO this preventative measure should be taken. However everyone's risk factor varies.</span></div><br /></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-55543863729321009362023-05-28T08:17:00.001-05:002023-05-28T08:17:24.760-05:00Grip-Brick Hold Positions<p>Photos show the versatility of the GripBrick and the various positions that can be achieved by positioning and adjusting the cord. </p><p>As of May I have a number of grips left that I'm selling at $15/grip + shipping. If interested contact me at sic dot grips at gmail dot com.</p><p>GripBricks can be used singly or in pairs and can be used with free weights, weight machines, hanging, or clipped to a knotted sling shut in a doorway to provide a horizontal pull at waist height. I most frequently use them to warm up at the crag or to do strength training one arm at a time with isometric pulls of ~5 secs slowly increasing and decreasing the pull to max strength.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcoKtB32heCe9k_XgRbo-5XCIXNr1Rq3-corgoCzw03IqISGLuuT4EQufmgI3jK3JwcdQxEuAOdH-KbY3-UvrE9hEhCIngXk8N8sQ-vn4pQjTds8kdi8rfwSucRcr7P54L-qVHja-3vNF9PwjShc7OyAgDl3EOHdOzsz2BFFgfP1pvzN0wg8A8LN8I/s6468/composite.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5694" data-original-width="6468" height="564" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcoKtB32heCe9k_XgRbo-5XCIXNr1Rq3-corgoCzw03IqISGLuuT4EQufmgI3jK3JwcdQxEuAOdH-KbY3-UvrE9hEhCIngXk8N8sQ-vn4pQjTds8kdi8rfwSucRcr7P54L-qVHja-3vNF9PwjShc7OyAgDl3EOHdOzsz2BFFgfP1pvzN0wg8A8LN8I/w640-h564/composite.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>The following two photos show how a girth hitch around the cord knot can be used to adjust the elliptical small and large crimps for positivity and finger contact area.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ3CtWvuFwGvsCuXpA97YrpYfcPjxzCgXk6eLkXnlSIS1kskcAyr8r-WjbyBTQ31I6uraOSvv3t1OG_lpOJjQrvd4UvLaRu5d5ipml-MtF45JSWJLy8MrGaq0w2v245h7FGZ2QSihY5u2ZSsCEYnRHMvwy2coH7A4Qd7NuBUl749Hdi7QixUOueb3z/s3058/20230412_135310%20(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3058" data-original-width="3053" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ3CtWvuFwGvsCuXpA97YrpYfcPjxzCgXk6eLkXnlSIS1kskcAyr8r-WjbyBTQ31I6uraOSvv3t1OG_lpOJjQrvd4UvLaRu5d5ipml-MtF45JSWJLy8MrGaq0w2v245h7FGZ2QSihY5u2ZSsCEYnRHMvwy2coH7A4Qd7NuBUl749Hdi7QixUOueb3z/s320/20230412_135310%20(1).jpg" width="319" /> </a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCHXbcJ1TUVw1eQRzBCUsJH1sHC8Ed-fCIh05nuaTeBTR32avme6OjWqAWtopkU3QFKd_6eOb54Hc5Su6JJ1HdoZTenwFdZTqrZcv60McGjYRzA9HK0m-OufevQfmPrldnsjhHhNwhfyJIjkyq4iJAI4A32T38rkmijaaNURb5VaGCiJqbasFrzEO0/s3053/20230412_135444%20(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3052" data-original-width="3053" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCHXbcJ1TUVw1eQRzBCUsJH1sHC8Ed-fCIh05nuaTeBTR32avme6OjWqAWtopkU3QFKd_6eOb54Hc5Su6JJ1HdoZTenwFdZTqrZcv60McGjYRzA9HK0m-OufevQfmPrldnsjhHhNwhfyJIjkyq4iJAI4A32T38rkmijaaNURb5VaGCiJqbasFrzEO0/s320/20230412_135444%20(1).jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ3CtWvuFwGvsCuXpA97YrpYfcPjxzCgXk6eLkXnlSIS1kskcAyr8r-WjbyBTQ31I6uraOSvv3t1OG_lpOJjQrvd4UvLaRu5d5ipml-MtF45JSWJLy8MrGaq0w2v245h7FGZ2QSihY5u2ZSsCEYnRHMvwy2coH7A4Qd7NuBUl749Hdi7QixUOueb3z/s3058/20230412_135310%20(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ3CtWvuFwGvsCuXpA97YrpYfcPjxzCgXk6eLkXnlSIS1kskcAyr8r-WjbyBTQ31I6uraOSvv3t1OG_lpOJjQrvd4UvLaRu5d5ipml-MtF45JSWJLy8MrGaq0w2v245h7FGZ2QSihY5u2ZSsCEYnRHMvwy2coH7A4Qd7NuBUl749Hdi7QixUOueb3z/s3058/20230412_135310%20(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; 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float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ3CtWvuFwGvsCuXpA97YrpYfcPjxzCgXk6eLkXnlSIS1kskcAyr8r-WjbyBTQ31I6uraOSvv3t1OG_lpOJjQrvd4UvLaRu5d5ipml-MtF45JSWJLy8MrGaq0w2v245h7FGZ2QSihY5u2ZSsCEYnRHMvwy2coH7A4Qd7NuBUl749Hdi7QixUOueb3z/s3058/20230412_135310%20(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ3CtWvuFwGvsCuXpA97YrpYfcPjxzCgXk6eLkXnlSIS1kskcAyr8r-WjbyBTQ31I6uraOSvv3t1OG_lpOJjQrvd4UvLaRu5d5ipml-MtF45JSWJLy8MrGaq0w2v245h7FGZ2QSihY5u2ZSsCEYnRHMvwy2coH7A4Qd7NuBUl749Hdi7QixUOueb3z/s3058/20230412_135310%20(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-10089196125092120242023-01-26T12:11:00.997-05:002023-05-28T08:31:16.474-05:00El Tacaño<h1><div><h1 style="text-align: center;"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx7QUNa-_5pAiukoEFt5rHiTxy6bJxWdQRhCuPxLRTK0YRlf7NUNvVu1v1IBClF_2ghKsG59lUnx6-pMnppWOcjtD7KlD9_PvQv4G1Tz8bHvSS3bYh9g29Txx5sR2q2Ou5Zb5V9xDTAdQg4cFhHQo2Qau5_7f9zG_HZ1OQeQbhMgM409N4W1Qgr0oE/s2498/CAS-composit3.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="738" data-original-width="2498" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx7QUNa-_5pAiukoEFt5rHiTxy6bJxWdQRhCuPxLRTK0YRlf7NUNvVu1v1IBClF_2ghKsG59lUnx6-pMnppWOcjtD7KlD9_PvQv4G1Tz8bHvSS3bYh9g29Txx5sR2q2Ou5Zb5V9xDTAdQg4cFhHQo2Qau5_7f9zG_HZ1OQeQbhMgM409N4W1Qgr0oE/w717-h212/CAS-composit3.jpg" width="717" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-large; font-weight: 700; text-align: left;">El Tacaño - GriGri Mods for <br />Lead Rope Solo<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table></h1></div></h1><div style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: large; font-weight: normal;">(The Cheapskate</i><span style="font-size: large; font-weight: normal;">) <br /></span><span style="font-size: xx-small; font-weight: normal;">[updated 25 May, '23]</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span><br /><div style="font-weight: normal; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">This is a summary of all my experiments and tinkering with modifying the GG for LRS. The naming is a nod to the El Mudo because it has the same basic functionality. If you aren’t a tinkerer and want the same functionality, then buy an El Mudo and support it's designer who is serving our community by constantly improving his design. It is a quality, bomber device made specifically for LRS and is probably the safest device available (with a back-up), and is reasonably priced compared to finding a used Soloist or Silent Partner at current eBay prices.</span></div><div style="font-weight: normal; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: normal; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">All my mods for LRS are way beyond the manufacture's designed purpose and will void any warranties; it may ruin your device; and are most likely dangerous for the inexperienced.</span></div><div style="font-weight: normal; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: normal; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">The goal of my tinkering is: better feed and immediate lock-up during weighting/falls. Said another way: I want it to be transparent in its feed and to be safe. I’m an old fart and risk adverse so I have no shame in setting a piece or clipping a bolt and hanging - I'm more into mileage and having fun than pushing myself then pushing my limits and getting something 'clean'. Given that, I do want to know that it's going to immediately lock-up. El Tacaño mods are good for minimizing fall distance on routes with objective hazards and /or cruxes low to ground. I'll leave the cutting edge stuff and big whippers to those like Brent Barghahn and Keita Kurkami who use similar systems but without some of the safety I've incorporated into my mods.</span></div><div style="font-weight: normal; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: normal; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span>If none of my reasons apply to you...move along...just use a stock inverted GG 1, 2, or 3 which doesn't require any mods and 'should feed well'; 'should lock-up'. Note: none of these will lock up in a head-first fall so a backup is mandatory</span></span><span style="font-size: large;">. </span></div><div style="font-weight: normal; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: normal; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">The following are 5 major versions of the mods starting with the easiest and least "destructive" of the stock GG. The degree of difficulty of the mods is directly proportional to the functionality of the device (ease of feed and immediate lock up):</span></div><div style="font-weight: normal; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><span>1</span><span>) GG+* - 2-strand HUB cord, (set to TR mode) </span></span></b></div><div style="font-weight: normal; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: normal; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Feeds best with smaller diameter ropes, < 9.6 to mitigate friction. <a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2022/08/grigri-3-hub-system-for-lead-rope.html">2-Strand HUB cord</a> - (Held Upside-down and Backwards) for connection to a chest harness. With this setup and the GG+ set to the top rope mode, it’s easier to lock up because it doesn’t have to flip up from hanging to vertical position. It's also easier for the climber to pull more rope for clipping because of higher position in relation to one’s body. This mod only requires one 1/8” hole to be drilled in pivoting side cover which doesn't weaken the GG; and doesn’t rely on holes in the plastic; no sharp edges; and keeps it away from handle. It can still be used for normal belaying. Allows centering of GG (side to side) and adjustment of the hang angle determined by where the overhand tow-loop is tied. </span></div><div style="font-weight: normal; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: normal; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Because the rope tab on the cam arm puts an "S" bend in the rope, the 2-strand HUB cord allows you to fine tune and adjust the angle for the least possible friction possible with a given rope. It's a simple matter of re-tying the knot for the chest harness hang loop and adjusting the length of the arms to change the GG+ angle of hang. If the GG+ is oriented close to vertical, the rope friction can be too great. Close to horizontal there is little rope friction - almost too good as the back-feed can become as issue. Also, in this position it can lock up if you're climbing too fast or pull rope up instead of down to clip. The middle photo where it hangs at 45-50 deg. and slightly rubs on the rope tab gives a good middle ground. It can be a bit finicky to set it initially set up and use but it's easy to make adjustments. </span></div><div style="font-weight: normal; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ1vsWg60kgW9BP7CcLPEs97x_9q0wNXc8q9NZvDwQeGDLtDkZ76caP9EaVEr2uSphPqZwdo7AqIl-g5Kcs-pjxIEspRzcKJ4PLTm8A8iXxDhzklEaMw97W_O7Uz9XQQ8jabIFXLmCPC2AWC2x2INImZxQw03EBncXJfvUlLHmvhguphB0y-eQHATm/s2272/Composite-GG+.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="2272" height="335" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ1vsWg60kgW9BP7CcLPEs97x_9q0wNXc8q9NZvDwQeGDLtDkZ76caP9EaVEr2uSphPqZwdo7AqIl-g5Kcs-pjxIEspRzcKJ4PLTm8A8iXxDhzklEaMw97W_O7Uz9XQQ8jabIFXLmCPC2AWC2x2INImZxQw03EBncXJfvUlLHmvhguphB0y-eQHATm/w715-h335/Composite-GG+.jpg" width="715" /></span></a></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div style="font-weight: normal; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: normal; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: normal; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Even though the spring in the GG+ is set to the TR mode it is quite weak but still requires a deliberate weighting on the rope to overcome the spring. I have heard of a some instances of it not locking up from a slow weighting from a high-clip position. Be sure to test on the ground and become familiar with the interplay of rope diameter and slow lock-up. This is what lead to #2 </span><span style="font-size: medium;">below where I disable the spring (GG3) and eliminate that possibility.</span></div><div style="font-weight: normal; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgef5alLGb_M5D0M86qOfXu_SIPMHrytpJ900CTk0tEgmuq23pOcCttKPRV3LIKEdh0z_oggdAuYchx37TD8W_LoPuLmQBb1m1w4PJES33p3PBl2BQkGJO-7HHyYx24FDnJFb5L_ny2Sh0IWrRXPNSdYDSc5LmaE7rqJ5rsljvh4FwZqcC30RwYhV_v/s3220/HUB-Bridle-composite.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="3220" height="351" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgef5alLGb_M5D0M86qOfXu_SIPMHrytpJ900CTk0tEgmuq23pOcCttKPRV3LIKEdh0z_oggdAuYchx37TD8W_LoPuLmQBb1m1w4PJES33p3PBl2BQkGJO-7HHyYx24FDnJFb5L_ny2Sh0IWrRXPNSdYDSc5LmaE7rqJ5rsljvh4FwZqcC30RwYhV_v/w708-h351/HUB-Bridle-composite.jpeg" width="708" /></a></div><br /><h1><br /><div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">2) GG3 - 2-strand HUB cord; deactivated spring.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"> <span style="font-weight: normal;">Feeds best with smaller diameter ropes, < 9.6 to mitigate friction. This uses the same 2-strand HUB setup as above but uses a GG# in which the spring is <a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2022/08/deactivating-spring-in-grigri-3-for.html">Deactivated</a> which allows the cam arm to pivot and lock on rope with the least downward movement of the climber. High clipping and/or “sitting” on the rope will always immediately lock-up. With the HUB cord there is no problem with the GG locking up. Because it’s held up vertically the rope feed is down away from locked position. However one needs to remember to pull slack down before clipping.However this is usually a natural action when leading - ‘pull down - clip up’. Should you pull directly up to do a high clip, it will immediately lock on you because of the deactivated spring.</span></span></div></h1><h1><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9O2xzpYwRHseEWHLmEkTecHU_Vle3p-hasMbnHD9G--z011VLUTioAasTIx-SsVkZC28-o9xfzgqa_Rv_PhkLh7pswVPq3St-xpNKIkynuaOY0b1btlJ41lt_JM1m8zYv01vfid30BN0whqnqUzJgHl3Q1VbGV0c2wJaq9k8Hz8jIL5Ewl7eXJhEJ/s3176/DSCF5608B.jpg"><img border="0" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9O2xzpYwRHseEWHLmEkTecHU_Vle3p-hasMbnHD9G--z011VLUTioAasTIx-SsVkZC28-o9xfzgqa_Rv_PhkLh7pswVPq3St-xpNKIkynuaOY0b1btlJ41lt_JM1m8zYv01vfid30BN0whqnqUzJgHl3Q1VbGV0c2wJaq9k8Hz8jIL5Ewl7eXJhEJ/w195-h303/DSCF5608B.jpg" width="195" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_z5zlTaKhkbWV-qMKTnnUeBOrE9Dw9mpI1G2sy6gky-PWgof9wVd4enySGwZMZUBdvLx6MDCMUzscQSvrtffqdH5aIAUPJvI93cEhdyj0-Q8HfoxfXd_0OQpYDqwVY3bCshdQHEvg9L2KrfXmdajU01L4SazlZyFcWh441dkn7Olgsy5xzat_wf1D/s2996/DSCF5604B.JPG"><img border="0" height="302" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_z5zlTaKhkbWV-qMKTnnUeBOrE9Dw9mpI1G2sy6gky-PWgof9wVd4enySGwZMZUBdvLx6MDCMUzscQSvrtffqdH5aIAUPJvI93cEhdyj0-Q8HfoxfXd_0OQpYDqwVY3bCshdQHEvg9L2KrfXmdajU01L4SazlZyFcWh441dkn7Olgsy5xzat_wf1D/w199-h302/DSCF5604B.JPG" width="199" /></a><img border="0" height="302" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjohG-I7A-9pvR3Oj7bgju7ICkQkVmTe5UrZUOfaz_uGxavwOTvWZgUxYLB7GMDq4A9EqiNGtaR9lK7GlHq_gqoZQjTsp1FHyYaduvqypdSv5PfEzNhW9dtIUTkHv8MUEA70nq6jmXNep7LVQ-oDAxKnfVTwE1XgMrdJCLbstrhRcXNERE9e7MND3jH/w250-h302/GG-composite2.JPG" width="250" /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Oe8P1151ICQ" width="320" youtube-src-id="Oe8P1151ICQ"></iframe><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/FoMrkkBYxF4" width="320" youtube-src-id="FoMrkkBYxF4"></iframe></span><br /><span><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span>3) GG3 - 2-strand HUB cord; deactivated spring; and ground down modified rope tab:</span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">The</span><span style="font-weight: normal;"> </span><a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2022/11/decreasing-friction-with-gg-hub-setup.html" style="font-weight: normal;">modified rope tab</a><span style="font-weight: normal;"> decreases the “S” bend in the rope which causes friction. This mod still protects against the rope getting caught underneath the cam arm because the tab is still functional though reduced in size. It is helpful to use in conjunction with 2-strand HUB cord to fine tune hang angle for most efficient feed.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCXLC5xJMnMp60rHvtetQt14yHkBjV3fjxVRIQH1Jr9nhYPoed2i-6dQLBbXKVxJxr2mYcUDrWUP4bRJLlrECaz11iz7tMWKDxYLSX2flxF82Ncb4nHG71qGgnAWZQni80_TPYBp4pBdLdwXq4dgQ-mmpau4yS42-rZWhrd8FFZJoaY3CUXSuP7z_k/s899/20221130_133028.jpg" style="font-weight: normal;"><img border="0" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCXLC5xJMnMp60rHvtetQt14yHkBjV3fjxVRIQH1Jr9nhYPoed2i-6dQLBbXKVxJxr2mYcUDrWUP4bRJLlrECaz11iz7tMWKDxYLSX2flxF82Ncb4nHG71qGgnAWZQni80_TPYBp4pBdLdwXq4dgQ-mmpau4yS42-rZWhrd8FFZJoaY3CUXSuP7z_k/w235-h235/20221130_133028.jpg" width="235" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNICJ5eqDI_0kj7EbeMKqnVsmY-6jZXNiZOuI7jV59ukgRiC4I4x7RodF4xnrf53E6ltktzODT7mUPMCpigliSnHrRFgmOXKJu8vTFLxGAa5CFW_CmzNEJNyK7SQbTqMduw4r7mTHRTKVXAECn833G-fP9oWJlx1_Kv6gi4cHVkj7rgzcxNiaitZ3y/s3040/20221130_132910.jpg" style="font-weight: normal;"><img border="0" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNICJ5eqDI_0kj7EbeMKqnVsmY-6jZXNiZOuI7jV59ukgRiC4I4x7RodF4xnrf53E6ltktzODT7mUPMCpigliSnHrRFgmOXKJu8vTFLxGAa5CFW_CmzNEJNyK7SQbTqMduw4r7mTHRTKVXAECn833G-fP9oWJlx1_Kv6gi4cHVkj7rgzcxNiaitZ3y/w207-h234/20221130_132910.jpg" width="207" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqn4_lcRuewhrxcx9iGq6Ga-AQFeNZQ4uOw5HSI0Iz_9NnVe0m6419Kt7sWett36tR9K3cjlrVs6CObR556DFhuyCedtvXqRACeFVyeRbA-SQvbtDUnCsD_B9dvzFyeScgJLHMinuPOyfie8f-dULtyYHQGlqNmp940P-UR9ibiDlQ5AHoLjPA1ip9/s2016/20221120_100307.jpg" style="font-weight: normal;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqn4_lcRuewhrxcx9iGq6Ga-AQFeNZQ4uOw5HSI0Iz_9NnVe0m6419Kt7sWett36tR9K3cjlrVs6CObR556DFhuyCedtvXqRACeFVyeRbA-SQvbtDUnCsD_B9dvzFyeScgJLHMinuPOyfie8f-dULtyYHQGlqNmp940P-UR9ibiDlQ5AHoLjPA1ip9/w236-h233/20221120_100307.jpg" width="236" /></a><br /></span></span><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPHVKY4u56aRSUHDtj3FOTQIWD-CM3s3heZ_Jntef79jj1nqURW3COs8kuRJWgnpbjESuy53uhjr6sCyvT6HKNNJZ68V_IXrIc1Oc4vRIh3tM3e8QrnN56Z0kuiFMr2ExlauqzYi061uHT9eTNVEhaCaZJGvKPWOlxQD2MP0ECt7U-eVoXiNdMps37/w362-h279/Composite2.jpg" /><span style="font-size: medium;"><span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPHVKY4u56aRSUHDtj3FOTQIWD-CM3s3heZ_Jntef79jj1nqURW3COs8kuRJWgnpbjESuy53uhjr6sCyvT6HKNNJZ68V_IXrIc1Oc4vRIh3tM3e8QrnN56Z0kuiFMr2ExlauqzYi061uHT9eTNVEhaCaZJGvKPWOlxQD2MP0ECt7U-eVoXiNdMps37/s5286/Composite2.jpg" style="font-weight: normal;"><img border="0" height="279" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPHVKY4u56aRSUHDtj3FOTQIWD-CM3s3heZ_Jntef79jj1nqURW3COs8kuRJWgnpbjESuy53uhjr6sCyvT6HKNNJZ68V_IXrIc1Oc4vRIh3tM3e8QrnN56Z0kuiFMr2ExlauqzYi061uHT9eTNVEhaCaZJGvKPWOlxQD2MP0ECt7U-eVoXiNdMps37/w362-h279/Composite2.jpg" width="362" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPHVKY4u56aRSUHDtj3FOTQIWD-CM3s3heZ_Jntef79jj1nqURW3COs8kuRJWgnpbjESuy53uhjr6sCyvT6HKNNJZ68V_IXrIc1Oc4vRIh3tM3e8QrnN56Z0kuiFMr2ExlauqzYi061uHT9eTNVEhaCaZJGvKPWOlxQD2MP0ECt7U-eVoXiNdMps37/s5286/Composite2.jpg" style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></a></span><br /><span style="font-weight: normal;">4)</span><span> GG+ - single HUB cord; ground-off rope tab; CAS (Cam Arm Shield), set to TR mode.</span><span style="font-weight: normal;"> </span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuYyTAXSHW1Q85eKQMUG-Jg6YbbSS7l-yXv59crCBobTYo84E6GX4E87KO_jzCL5l9rGIoSXcyd5eZ3UaiFXE5lHDuOrjwoefRn3zJx5X3vpjWtt7gQwCt8QRLesKM3sIunkgvJH3QtMqsYgJ-X_KT2VzEUnpIZQHSEPr00vJogcB0kZzzne6h9ERu/s1200/20221123_152434.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="563" height="439" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuYyTAXSHW1Q85eKQMUG-Jg6YbbSS7l-yXv59crCBobTYo84E6GX4E87KO_jzCL5l9rGIoSXcyd5eZ3UaiFXE5lHDuOrjwoefRn3zJx5X3vpjWtt7gQwCt8QRLesKM3sIunkgvJH3QtMqsYgJ-X_KT2VzEUnpIZQHSEPr00vJogcB0kZzzne6h9ERu/w205-h439/20221123_152434.jpg" width="205" /></a></div><br />Here I switched to a 1-strand HUB cord. Simpler to set up and holds GG closer to vertical. Because there is no rope tab it's not as critical to keep it at an optimal angle. With the 1-strand HUB cord it leans slightly because the one strand is a bit offset from the center of gravity of the GG. This might increase the drag slightly but is helpful in keeping the cord and chest harness connection away from GG handle - and it's also simpler to put on and take off. </span><span style="font-weight: 400;">Because it’s using a GG+ the lock-up isn't as immediate as #2 and #3 above because it still has to overcome the spring in the TR mode. </span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: medium;">A CAS (Cam Arm Shield) was also created because the standard GG rope tab is ground completely off to give a straighter rope path and decrease rope feed friction. Because of the tab is hollow, it leaves several small holes through to the guts of the handle. The CAS seals this off so nothing can get in to jam up the handle.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzY6TsZ4LY60rKtjd8JuMCy2wqpU1V0rLSZuW74qEqGmbacRY4mCz-dceZnSKGPFnybL4vuUfOxXnfaFJ_9UHRiqXe2WiPAQjaQ4psCwCbUmwFFSgnssiuLDL56tjB02VZQyJ-5Ro69D3cxbpjZiuvMksNPSBx26mpwkcbOkKie1Hdbnl86r0sfeNO/s640/GroundTabCaughtRope.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzY6TsZ4LY60rKtjd8JuMCy2wqpU1V0rLSZuW74qEqGmbacRY4mCz-dceZnSKGPFnybL4vuUfOxXnfaFJ_9UHRiqXe2WiPAQjaQ4psCwCbUmwFFSgnssiuLDL56tjB02VZQyJ-5Ro69D3cxbpjZiuvMksNPSBx26mpwkcbOkKie1Hdbnl86r0sfeNO/w205-h205/GroundTabCaughtRope.jpg" width="205" /></a></div>Without a CAS there is a risk of the rope getting caught underneath the cam arm and slicing the rope during a fall as shown to the right. The CAS is designed to make that an impossibility. It is fashioned out of a small piece of 25 gauge (0.5 mm) 304 stainless steel and JB Weld steel epoxy is used to glue it to the cam arm. This version is the smoothest feeding systems possible with a GG and is better than any other LRS system that I’ve tried which includes all the major LRS devices…it’s just unfortunate that it has the anti-panic handle - but I suppose if one wanted the best feeding GG for LRS, they could learn to live with and become efficient at using the anti-panic handle.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">The following photo shows the cam arm shield before being attached with steel epoxy. It was a bit too wide so I eventually cut the width down after I'd already bent it and held it in place to see how it fit. A bit of trial and error.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIiiaFlPPLtYpeO3kYt_7PaOieL7DNng3naRRJ-zxzB41O-SbQb6CXZTQ7kB51fMLt9jDorKNfYi2PesNST2Ngm1IrjD0m_rspe9Lhrf6t2Mr90IbeuR3bC0ADeO_ofbj0ZcjTfjJZIQvIs7Nf4grPIb2-MLQDgHrVYXYAblrjlivwJhMmWM698h-P/s2150/GG+-CamArmShield.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="574" data-original-width="2150" height="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIiiaFlPPLtYpeO3kYt_7PaOieL7DNng3naRRJ-zxzB41O-SbQb6CXZTQ7kB51fMLt9jDorKNfYi2PesNST2Ngm1IrjD0m_rspe9Lhrf6t2Mr90IbeuR3bC0ADeO_ofbj0ZcjTfjJZIQvIs7Nf4grPIb2-MLQDgHrVYXYAblrjlivwJhMmWM698h-P/w640-h170/GG+-CamArmShield.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Chamfered hole for the HUB cord. Since the photo was taken I have changed to drilling the hole on the sloping face just below where it is shown. This causes the cord to better exit at an angle between the cover and body into the existing gap between cover and body of the GG. This saves having to file the plastic spacer to create better clearance for the cord.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfDfOtENXi-y1orJXnDCGt6G-wkZj9ORVFQ6hpze1iF_N6MPVko09SN0yxrFmpZ45bBGfi4OmKkxKq638szShefYofjen4hDiu1pXXJL9DaMWPwHD_0w_6Yub_1UjpVR307dGu9Qn1s-dKtja0x771Gy09EA_82IHfn07VwGvKEcZJoqt2zuTomy69/s1136/20230304_093447.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1136" data-original-width="1135" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfDfOtENXi-y1orJXnDCGt6G-wkZj9ORVFQ6hpze1iF_N6MPVko09SN0yxrFmpZ45bBGfi4OmKkxKq638szShefYofjen4hDiu1pXXJL9DaMWPwHD_0w_6Yub_1UjpVR307dGu9Qn1s-dKtja0x771Gy09EA_82IHfn07VwGvKEcZJoqt2zuTomy69/s320/20230304_093447.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span></div></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqyX0n03zQOlPzPt3XAgWfauM0pQgRqkm8yMhuVEVNV3wYuiohGJxmqCVkLGOcDr1NTeGm9pooKH3NnKj0iBZtYNCZrf1Tv3Ud33-SkuH__IVhL2aEnSPgDKqw2PSmPN1a7st148uQF8n9ipV-EQp_RlKYEPITQOvDPsFXZTT_CJGDh_yZ-0GJTgCd/s2712/CAS-Composite.jpg"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqyX0n03zQOlPzPt3XAgWfauM0pQgRqkm8yMhuVEVNV3wYuiohGJxmqCVkLGOcDr1NTeGm9pooKH3NnKj0iBZtYNCZrf1Tv3Ud33-SkuH__IVhL2aEnSPgDKqw2PSmPN1a7st148uQF8n9ipV-EQp_RlKYEPITQOvDPsFXZTT_CJGDh_yZ-0GJTgCd/w640-h294/CAS-Composite.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqyX0n03zQOlPzPt3XAgWfauM0pQgRqkm8yMhuVEVNV3wYuiohGJxmqCVkLGOcDr1NTeGm9pooKH3NnKj0iBZtYNCZrf1Tv3Ud33-SkuH__IVhL2aEnSPgDKqw2PSmPN1a7st148uQF8n9ipV-EQp_RlKYEPITQOvDPsFXZTT_CJGDh_yZ-0GJTgCd/s2712/CAS-Composite.jpg"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkagxDwiH4usEdqVhF-j4jyBaHlA3kA2iL5n8KfH5GcVLFG7T5b6vwDkBkFQUlwEJgHpme3Y7yRSRtlk9aFAZ2VDfqYSoI5Mt9V4qtbSPElrFx-pQ9NCcwMxUlfQQbyXrgPOjvfVckFmzC4VEAYoDBkbXPQOIQRKqL4anp1ocsdX_IrEF7SWR6aOzi/s3188/CAS-Composite2.jpg"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkagxDwiH4usEdqVhF-j4jyBaHlA3kA2iL5n8KfH5GcVLFG7T5b6vwDkBkFQUlwEJgHpme3Y7yRSRtlk9aFAZ2VDfqYSoI5Mt9V4qtbSPElrFx-pQ9NCcwMxUlfQQbyXrgPOjvfVckFmzC4VEAYoDBkbXPQOIQRKqL4anp1ocsdX_IrEF7SWR6aOzi/w640-h290/CAS-Composite2.jpg" /></a><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">5) </span><span>GG3 - single HUB cord, deactivated spring; ground-off rope tab; CAS (cam arm shield)</span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHwtpTafUiM_VW26RwQp4AHj2eJygkL2hJOBbsJ2cnaNo6qd7fQLc5LLF4gYJHaXvMmAKTY5G3er9Q0aROpOpjgqms0d2WBgk0GLWlIh-n1d9NHgaZGEZZ8JKz0H0JQLxpIIHtaeNs6t0DKnqEMyyVLPfl8598vNZTaMn6pVJnzv02osPDkHpeMVxS/s1281/20230128_164450.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="818" data-original-width="1281" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHwtpTafUiM_VW26RwQp4AHj2eJygkL2hJOBbsJ2cnaNo6qd7fQLc5LLF4gYJHaXvMmAKTY5G3er9Q0aROpOpjgqms0d2WBgk0GLWlIh-n1d9NHgaZGEZZ8JKz0H0JQLxpIIHtaeNs6t0DKnqEMyyVLPfl8598vNZTaMn6pVJnzv02osPDkHpeMVxS/w355-h226/20230128_164450.jpg" width="355" /></a> </div></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='355' height='295' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyXklPQRUFtmuXVjyLqyHi13Cg_x-aYFjzBVEqPPX5QMab70Yfze4ZWFVMUT-ujFO0ncEYIUg6Cl5iHISRHgQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='355' height='297' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxe7HzXDifUWij0brNDQ0PBaOpEGEeg8GKLH0UIa06Lna9NZkHELmEmc1NBUsfbO7QhePH6gOTfVXE_PviO1Q' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: 400;">This version uses a GG3 and has the spring deactivated like in #s 2 and 3 above. However it has the rope tab on the cam arm completely ground off like #4 above. It also has a CAS with a new rope guide tab. This is necessary because with no spring resistance, when the rope feeds through around the cam, it tends to rotate it and which starts the locking-up process on the rope causing friction. This ultimately defeats the purpose of grinding off the tab in the first place. By incorporating a new rope tab into the CAS, the rope path can be straightened out, allowing for a straighter rope path than in #3. However, in the long run I think it’s not worth the extra work because the gains in friction reduction are minimal over #3 above. If one wanted the best feed possible in a GG for LRS, then #4 above is the choice. I haven't actually used this one yet but preliminary tests at home have convinced me that it it not worth the extra work even though it would seem the ultimate in rope feed and instant lock up. </span></div></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPnSQQmi86UHW0EeoHYoyL2RSmNrCbKYiS4glUWBLzlWDn4bNiVZyMRwt_8DtCE-UqqIyzS_XXibXn3yV7ysJyuvlofgJtJXc9X0jRfihnFKtcZwlyRWFiv7ubWiHKduYvZfLSlBgMnrJomCH6irCyLSW73EhczS7Oc3hZQHZwsM-4NNLzFo9k1jD6/s2908/CAS-composite4.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1598" data-original-width="2908" height="390" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPnSQQmi86UHW0EeoHYoyL2RSmNrCbKYiS4glUWBLzlWDn4bNiVZyMRwt_8DtCE-UqqIyzS_XXibXn3yV7ysJyuvlofgJtJXc9X0jRfihnFKtcZwlyRWFiv7ubWiHKduYvZfLSlBgMnrJomCH6irCyLSW73EhczS7Oc3hZQHZwsM-4NNLzFo9k1jD6/w709-h390/CAS-composite4.jpg" width="709" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-weight: 400; text-align: left;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-weight: 400; text-align: left;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-weight: 400; text-align: left;"><br /></span></span></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><br /></span></h1><h1><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></h1><h1><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></h1><h1><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></h1><h1><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></h1><h1><span style="font-size: medium;">Additional mods: <br /></span><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">The pivoting side plate was trimmed slightly and the edges were chamfered to increase opening clearance to decrease rope drag. </span></span><span style="font-size: medium; font-weight: normal;">This mod only applies to 3), 4) and 5) above. This is a minor mod but depending upon rope used, it can help with reducing the rope drag as well as provide a smoother and much more rounded opening where the rope will be rubbing when changing directions from feeding down while climbing, to pulling up during a fall. </span></div></h1><h1><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikQ_5SJNOZJX2VvFicVUPQurirBh2-gNOfk_j7aZTG25pt33OUiqudmaIc3KEduscaAjmOBHIO-omyc9AXJU9aTxSF-JTsEGxkcsrKR4dpj-BuV4uVPoRSUQkgATaCUEjDKuxlEuUXNFZJE6cCrlZg50wvowlQHdU9a-AK_m5WH40h-PgUSvAMy3bA/s3320/SideCover-Composite.jpg" style="font-weight: normal;"><img border="0" height="169" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikQ_5SJNOZJX2VvFicVUPQurirBh2-gNOfk_j7aZTG25pt33OUiqudmaIc3KEduscaAjmOBHIO-omyc9AXJU9aTxSF-JTsEGxkcsrKR4dpj-BuV4uVPoRSUQkgATaCUEjDKuxlEuUXNFZJE6cCrlZg50wvowlQHdU9a-AK_m5WH40h-PgUSvAMy3bA/w686-h169/SideCover-Composite.jpg" width="686" /></a><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: normal; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6hIB_ZWGWbp-_AFqCILVKDywFHV-0buog_K6CbHB_IGSiejmv6mWmw9lJ5rZDx-5gqVThpCnViUTvDDeK_JGVBBqoYETQVrcfGFz3ISol4mIyz0XL8U96Y7HsrL3D3LDxTf0VXLYLlwHS4NIaE9CLwGkC9WFJjk-C8nQEttO1IfJkWnIiNV-OCrEg/s663/ShortenedHandle.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="663" data-original-width="663" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6hIB_ZWGWbp-_AFqCILVKDywFHV-0buog_K6CbHB_IGSiejmv6mWmw9lJ5rZDx-5gqVThpCnViUTvDDeK_JGVBBqoYETQVrcfGFz3ISol4mIyz0XL8U96Y7HsrL3D3LDxTf0VXLYLlwHS4NIaE9CLwGkC9WFJjk-C8nQEttO1IfJkWnIiNV-OCrEg/w222-h222/ShortenedHandle.jpg" width="222" /></a></div><span style="font-weight: normal;">On several of the GGs, I shortened the length of GG handle by 3/8” - 1/2”. This provides more clearance of handle when cam arm pivots so it is less likely to catch on anything. It's interesting to note that the latest version of the Petzl Grillion (a version of the Grigri without a spring for use in an adjustable lanyard for rope work), also has a shorter handle than the GGs do. When the handle is shortened, it leaves a raw I-beam edge on the end that I filled with epoxy and then rounded and smoothed. For my small-medium fingers, it still leaves enough space to get 3 fingers on the handle to easily control the rap. I've never had an issue with handle interference so this is more of a preventative measure.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: normal;">There you have it. Five major GG mods done over several years. It's kind of anal in scope and detail but then that's what I do. My favorites are #3 and #4 above though they all work.</span></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: large;">LINKS</span></div></h1><h1><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span><span><div style="font-weight: normal;"><span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2022/08/grigri-3-hub-system-for-lead-rope.html">HUB cord details</a></span></span></div><div style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2022/11/decreasing-friction-with-gg-hub-setup.html">De-activating GG spring</a></div><div style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2022/11/decreasing-friction-with-gg-hub-setup.html">Grinding down GG rope tab</a></div><span style="font-weight: normal;">_________________</span></span><br />GG+*<span style="font-weight: normal;"> - while many people (including me) don't care for the anti-panic handle, and while it is a scourge for an experienced user, for those who want to make the most minimal modification to a GG and want to try a "safe" way to LRS (2-strand HUB cord), the GG+'s dual spring mode provides an acceptable way to try it out IMO. It should be set to the weak-spring (Top Rope) mode.</span><br /></span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />Note<span style="font-weight: normal;">: While some of the photos often show an aluminum 'biner (which was handy to grab when shooting these photos), when actually using the El Tacaño I use a locking steel 'biner or a rated SS quick link.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Note 2<span style="font-weight: 400;">: At some point I would love to take a couple of these and a weighted duffle/haul bag so it was rigged like a climber then push it over backwards off the top of a local cliff. This would simulate what a typical head-first fall might be like. It is typically said that a HUB rigged GGs won't catch a head first fall without a back-up. It could be tested both with and without a backup. Anyway, maybe in the future.</span><br /></span></div></h1>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-56518980264386384482022-11-30T15:59:00.008-05:002023-02-15T10:10:17.528-05:00Decreasing Friction with a GG HUB Setup for Lead Rope Soloing<p>Decreasing Friction with a GG3 HUB Setup (updated 02/16/23)</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO5ETa7qikVToGT6djJ2tMEfnztpY0SeIJLgVhCzny1qXtaiod1Q-GRRF0qUPPN1XHZoDhZRubx1Yi8SXetnntgUTYMVoGpaBVnOesu9p-j6V0Yn6mw8AfiH4FRnNUd6m0CNK1d_0oFpJbsDpCTd2KLOvh0OnUahL7lOKTQfPoaOA9SxtlFyz8Z86G/s5286/Composite2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4070" data-original-width="5286" height="493" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO5ETa7qikVToGT6djJ2tMEfnztpY0SeIJLgVhCzny1qXtaiod1Q-GRRF0qUPPN1XHZoDhZRubx1Yi8SXetnntgUTYMVoGpaBVnOesu9p-j6V0Yn6mw8AfiH4FRnNUd6m0CNK1d_0oFpJbsDpCTd2KLOvh0OnUahL7lOKTQfPoaOA9SxtlFyz8Z86G/w640-h493/Composite2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>This is the third in a "holy trinity" of GG mods I've done over the years on a GG. To recap - there are two main ways a GG can be used for LRS: hanging and backwards (known as "inverted" by many) and the HUB (held upside-down and backwards). The inverted method, if paired with the right rope, is great for upside down falls and steep terrain with no objective hazards and it doesn’t require any modification for using it this way. However it needs falls with a significant “jerk” to overcome the GG spring tension in order to lock-up. This can lead to not locking up when high-clipping and sagging on the rope. In contrast, the HUB method is good for high-clips and having the security of being being able to hang on a piece and lock-up at any point in time; ease of lock-up results in shorter falls; and for climbs with objective hazards and low angle slabs, FOR ME, the HUB method is preferable. The downside of the HUB method is it won't hold an upside down fall so a backup is mandatory (which it should be with any device and method). To achieve this functionality requires significant modification fo the GG which is a significant drawback for most climbers. The three mods are: 1) <a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2022/08/grigri-3-hub-system-for-lead-rope.html" target="_blank">drilling a small hole in cover so that it can be held upright with a cord</a>; 2) <a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2022/08/deactivating-spring-in-grigri-3-for.html" target="_blank">disabling the spring so that it will lock-up immediately in the event of a fall or a high-clip</a> (if a GG+ is used this is unnecessary because of the dual spring mode - however it will never be as safe and and lock as easy as a GG3 with the disabled spring); and finally, 3) the mod described in this article will be modifying the rope guide tab on the cam arm to decrease friction in the feed. </p><p>This last mod has the least affect of the three mods but if wanting to get the last once of performance out of the GG with the HUB setup, then it is worth considering. It should only be done after the first two mods and using with the rope and setup that you’ll use. It may be that it is unnecessary or undesirable…read on.</p><p>Before describing the mod and how to do it, I'd like to take a bit of a detour and talk about rope feed and friction in general. While ease of rope feed is usually thought of as one of the most sought after characteristics of a lead rope solo device, it needs to be understood in context. The device with the least amount of friction is <b>NOT</b> <b>NECESSARILY</b> the best LRS device. That is because feed and backfeed are in an inverse relationship with each other: the easier a device feeds, the more likely back-feed will be an issue. As with many things ultimately it will depend upon an individuals preferences given their setup and types of routes they climb.</p><p>A device like the Revo is generally considered the device with the least resistance and best feed. However that also means that it will be the first device (everything else being equal) to back-feed during a lead. Other factors that will affect back-feed is the angle of the rock face and if the rope drags across it; the size and type of rope being used; the length of the pitch, how many pieces of gear the rope travels through before getting to the LRS device. A lower angle climb with many objects or a horizontally wandering route will take weight off the live end of the rope and reduce the amount of back-feed. Finally the size/weight of the cache loop acting as a counterbalance will affect the degree of back-feed. So pursuing the best feeding LRS device needs to be done in relation to all these other factors.</p><p>The Silent Partner and Revo both have excellent feed (Revo more so than the SP because of the clove hitch used in the SP). Both are essentially giant pulleys that the rope travels around and the wheel/pulley is free to rotate. The GG’s rope path on the other hand, goes around a non-rotating cam and then changes direction where it exits the device. The friction comes from the the non-rotating nature of the cam and the change of direction/bend in the rope when it exits the device. Any time the rope makes an “S” bend, depending upon the diameter of the bends, it can significantly increase friction. See the first photo above that illustrates this.</p>So, if you look at a stock GG3 HUB rope path, it is easy to see how the cam rope tab causes this “S” bend. Depending upon the size and stiffness of the rope this may or may not cause more friction than is desired. If it’s not prohibitive, then this last mod maybe moot. If there is significant friction when climbing and pulling slack, then it may be worth considering this third mod. <div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbQeKp95WmwEAgmuJA2sBJCTu9wJ1F4EOn8vvGE0k8gnXrV_sOyuLAaG4tuTwIq97IGDkpgMU_8Vr1eLcmsa3n1paLL9hIv-xBYcZ4WUvo1ypZR3JBRuf7n7akSTb3GgF8SHhMSK3sS5GzQ3N09cJHtKLzHDD-6GdmXqbjLk7kSflo5i-7XzD4cZE9/s1598/GG+TAB.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1598" data-original-width="1598" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbQeKp95WmwEAgmuJA2sBJCTu9wJ1F4EOn8vvGE0k8gnXrV_sOyuLAaG4tuTwIq97IGDkpgMU_8Vr1eLcmsa3n1paLL9hIv-xBYcZ4WUvo1ypZR3JBRuf7n7akSTb3GgF8SHhMSK3sS5GzQ3N09cJHtKLzHDD-6GdmXqbjLk7kSflo5i-7XzD4cZE9/s320/GG+TAB.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>The main purpose of that tab on the Grigri cam arm is to keep the rope wrapped around the cam so that it can’t get caught behind the cam arm which could act as a knife in the event of a fall. I modified a GG+ in the past and totally ground off the tab. The result was one of the best/easiest feeding LRS devices outside the Revo. <p></p><p>However, as shown in the photo to the right, in a weird fall, it could get caught behind the cam arm. While I’m personally reticent to use it for LRSing, it didn’t stop Keita Kurakami who used a similarly modified GG+ with an 8.1 mm rope when he rope soloed the Nose! (<a href="https://www.facebook.com/keita.kurakami/posts/pfbid02sUykWXzczJF3bJrUx3jKRGUY1sEQ8ApCHkciN7DDYNFiN83QH5mt4tuqDeZhKRqWl">https://www.facebook.com/keita.kurakami/posts/pfbid02sUykWXzczJF3bJrUx3jKRGUY1sEQ8ApCHkciN7DDYNFiN83QH5mt4tuqDeZhKRqWl</a>) <a href="http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web18f/newswire-kurakami-herson-free-the-nose?fbclid=IwAR13Alcfn2izJ6aMrhAKJ3Oy-jVQVc__rPXu9eamcJTZ4UMpmXn5oacN-08">http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web18f/newswire-kurakami-herson-free-the-nose?fbclid=IwAR13Alcfn2izJ6aMrhAKJ3Oy-jVQVc__rPXu9eamcJTZ4UMpmXn5oacN-08</a>. </p><p>I’m sure the feed with the small diameter rope was <i>slick as owl shit,</i> but I’d be nervous regarding the possibility of it getting caught behind the cam arm and getting sliced. In his defense, he did take 50+ falls in practice and training for the Nose and on the climb itself took 10 falls on the Changing Corners and the Great roof. Also, in light of the discussion above, it would seem the backfeed could be an issue because of how freely it flows through the device.</p><p>Now back to the GG3 HUB device. One way to help get rid of the “S” kink in the rope path to improve ease of feed <b>but still keep its function of preventing the rope from going behind the cam arm</b>, is to grind away a good part of the rope guide tab to straighten out the rope path. The resulting path can be seen in the righthand photo at the beginning of the article. </p><p>By trimming the tab as shown below, enough of the tab can be cut off to straighten the rope path but still leaves enough so the rope can't get trapped behind the cam during a fall. I did it with a Dremmel tool and carbide grinding disk, it’s fairly easy to cut through the stainless steel material with a bit of patience and a steady hand. I held the Grigri in a vise while doing this. I then finished with a hand file and various grades of emery paper. I started off by first drilling a small hole to locate where the horizontal and vertical cuts would meet which also provided a nice radius for the transition between the two cuts. The end result may look sharp from the photos but all edges where the rope touches are well rounded. It also may look flimsy, but there’s still a significant amount of stainless steel and it barely makes contact with the rope as it slides past it while climbing. Also, during a fall, the force vector is away from the tab since the rope wraps around the cam away from the rope guide tab.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcAf7-M6R4Y8LmzdGgKiERjoodgFfM6JPcHoSkDYEIZgscoVRiQwfw_5p4xhX_ocsvEH-dIi6M37bchO9WT2qI4xNhwdjxSYpg643ayHn7pG1qumWCkHBsKSCmB2sI2rkXv6nrXibxIVSOHEj0pVxPhCEXezwb0Aino4q8n6MDvcXGTqtJH_QdNSow/s1804/Tab-cut-lines.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1804" data-original-width="1804" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcAf7-M6R4Y8LmzdGgKiERjoodgFfM6JPcHoSkDYEIZgscoVRiQwfw_5p4xhX_ocsvEH-dIi6M37bchO9WT2qI4xNhwdjxSYpg643ayHn7pG1qumWCkHBsKSCmB2sI2rkXv6nrXibxIVSOHEj0pVxPhCEXezwb0Aino4q8n6MDvcXGTqtJH_QdNSow/w200-h200/Tab-cut-lines.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbV4kud3k6gZEUNrZlMYyngE2AizUKqfNkmx2zLSKJ5-AvhcuqOjuMv4kTrbNikd6XJVgZscwDt3hykeZ2Hc05P3__DDGyxssWOes7gRhcEkdsdtalq4t_P0mDuoDXgv_2Qs4bSmcFt41pGfMnx89oZY8E8PUP-ROtVaUSGKCSmqGEPAIzWpQVIHXX/s2787/20221121_171602.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1804" data-original-width="2787" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbV4kud3k6gZEUNrZlMYyngE2AizUKqfNkmx2zLSKJ5-AvhcuqOjuMv4kTrbNikd6XJVgZscwDt3hykeZ2Hc05P3__DDGyxssWOes7gRhcEkdsdtalq4t_P0mDuoDXgv_2Qs4bSmcFt41pGfMnx89oZY8E8PUP-ROtVaUSGKCSmqGEPAIzWpQVIHXX/w308-h198/20221121_171602.jpg" width="308" /></a><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcK_XyEq0mU2JZ850nbVZXbCQOR2KY-i-81NN-NvRcGPHORxhCh2yAOKMJJN7Icul58glr1Bqf985YZbQIyE-zudo0l7IAjgse8weAq0LlVTw1O8-sYeaO5FM-NhsXF3PXFRutbl86GocNyddtl9URtFZkh0xDVq7ls1DoILkqSkB31P-RZRvtdK7_/s899/20221130_133741.jpg" style="clear: left; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="899" data-original-width="899" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcK_XyEq0mU2JZ850nbVZXbCQOR2KY-i-81NN-NvRcGPHORxhCh2yAOKMJJN7Icul58glr1Bqf985YZbQIyE-zudo0l7IAjgse8weAq0LlVTw1O8-sYeaO5FM-NhsXF3PXFRutbl86GocNyddtl9URtFZkh0xDVq7ls1DoILkqSkB31P-RZRvtdK7_/w200-h200/20221130_133741.jpg" width="200" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDvNcAJl9cJmxqt8Na81TtpROEY3YfVjLriKvlfcLnZDse1U0gsIvXMpQeuGt3mATRVT2wsk64H_XPWI8LJhlc5EXuJC7iE8GbM0LyTt6hIDc47cqEJBdlTWzlNja_A6tX1EN45JWD-U0-K4nXituuYpTzrJq6uez5nHqtJ-Qxohz89WLAAE86hH4L/s899/20221130_133338.jpg" style="clear: left; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="899" data-original-width="899" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDvNcAJl9cJmxqt8Na81TtpROEY3YfVjLriKvlfcLnZDse1U0gsIvXMpQeuGt3mATRVT2wsk64H_XPWI8LJhlc5EXuJC7iE8GbM0LyTt6hIDc47cqEJBdlTWzlNja_A6tX1EN45JWD-U0-K4nXituuYpTzrJq6uez5nHqtJ-Qxohz89WLAAE86hH4L/w200-h200/20221130_133338.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgez_TD4X5cctZUqPaldbnqPPgcrm0Y6zGJO4rt4-zCu141vlCj52Q7uKvmVlxUXjHA5tb8yXhS76rFpXwFGs1SuweGhek44woG_TImHAcZ57_2QNTaDfTCPF8lPRXF-68c40nOUpD8LjyB48FfyMvtaiXQpIAviY9Yjdp_g5uTaizdg4zRi44Fw2wl/s899/20221130_133028.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="899" data-original-width="899" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgez_TD4X5cctZUqPaldbnqPPgcrm0Y6zGJO4rt4-zCu141vlCj52Q7uKvmVlxUXjHA5tb8yXhS76rFpXwFGs1SuweGhek44woG_TImHAcZ57_2QNTaDfTCPF8lPRXF-68c40nOUpD8LjyB48FfyMvtaiXQpIAviY9Yjdp_g5uTaizdg4zRi44Fw2wl/w200-h200/20221130_133028.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbAPhH4rPpLM_-Nnnez1WQtiMMEK8flARtGJ8kqAMgzRXswRsq2tQ5Vm6tvRGtluPQQoA97-gS_1ZGYD9dpXTDW5DHvKR-mu0DgdCxRFRx2_iCjycIH4YvUKY_LifXDQ1LPAwOXK97XsbkfWs2DUWu9oW6PEllRSGqaXFtrId2Sy_Dki1vHeCQw4tO/s899/20221130_133741.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxVFWqkGqEq0_KlbxiHCWJpNXUc6UZBeGpSd-24pGVB6VN1Uf9odxoZOPkR4ii3O00CEKyuFJtOFWFQwN3bVUm0IoqPmyFfWdQWoRR36FyEhteiKP5VEEXMKKv5oMyNWLTyuqWKyT8AOrfFaurbxGMbOY4ldG21M5dvY9xhEbq5VhfwStMMERdjN7K/s3564/PXL_20210621_145845203.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3564" data-original-width="2601" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxVFWqkGqEq0_KlbxiHCWJpNXUc6UZBeGpSd-24pGVB6VN1Uf9odxoZOPkR4ii3O00CEKyuFJtOFWFQwN3bVUm0IoqPmyFfWdQWoRR36FyEhteiKP5VEEXMKKv5oMyNWLTyuqWKyT8AOrfFaurbxGMbOY4ldG21M5dvY9xhEbq5VhfwStMMERdjN7K/s320/PXL_20210621_145845203.jpg" width="234" /></a>On a previous GG, I trimmed the tab down similarly but then fitted a stainless steel tube over it and filled the void with steel epoxy. While it looks a lot slicker and more professional, functionally it is not quite as good because the diameter of the tube impinges a bit more into the rope path and puts slightly more friction on the rope. On the same GG, in an earlier version of this mod, I fitted a small diameter roller bearing thinking that it would help reduce friction. However again, because of the diameter of the bearing, it impinged slightly more into the rope path and ended up with a bit more friction than this current mod. </div><p></p><p>Sooo, that's it. The last of my holy trinity of GG mods.</p><p><b><span style="color: red;">As always, these are things I’ve done to modify my GG (and for a few friends). Do not try any of these mods without full knowledge and much experience, both lead rope soloing and with modifying equipment. You will void the warranty of the device; you could screw it up permanently so that it doesn’t function properly; and it could result in death. </span></b></p><p>Having said that, for me, it’s one of the best devices out there. For those of you wanting this functionality but don't want the risk of modifying a GG, once the rope creep bugs are worked out of the El Mudo (v3?), it will definitely be a simpler and safer way to obtain most of the same functionality that I've sought after with these GG mods. If you're a tinker, then the hopefully the info in the three blogposts will be informative.</p><p><b>Postscript</b>: Since publishing this I’ve come <a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2023/01/el-tacano.html">up with another couple ways</a> to totally eliminate the standard rope tab on the GG3 and GG+ but still be able to keep the rope from getting caught behind the cam arm. </p></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-33794827603209360662022-11-23T17:56:00.013-05:002022-12-04T19:18:00.882-05:00Mudo 2.0 - Initial thoughts and evaluation<h1 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"> <b style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue";">Mudo 2.0 - </b><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue";">Initial thoughts and evaluation</span></span></h1><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgGJMfrRkaP6QS8swgCozEVjNex0Bfk_H73j9WCqb8deWn4zlFYnSrxi5UWFNrgH9dGSuhYaVvfUG4pJYIVTtHTrvTxKoJYUXwgAkj5_GozRgoXyLx56abWkokQO6owiM8EXqzsNM8ePnbOg1DvsWmuZmT3BKwpo15RJ06V1YhZp6jd1YPjYh9NUdP/s1346/Composite.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1346" height="570" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgGJMfrRkaP6QS8swgCozEVjNex0Bfk_H73j9WCqb8deWn4zlFYnSrxi5UWFNrgH9dGSuhYaVvfUG4pJYIVTtHTrvTxKoJYUXwgAkj5_GozRgoXyLx56abWkokQO6owiM8EXqzsNM8ePnbOg1DvsWmuZmT3BKwpo15RJ06V1YhZp6jd1YPjYh9NUdP/w640-h570/Composite.png" width="640" /></a></div><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6b1ibEvX0tkXCQxXHpNzx1MDPDwbg0PPCoXO6pfPyFLuhBXUkVrIwQVg5dbVWgByeZ3PXR-Lg1FpqcJxlGZki2hRJW7RPQ3d0v4dMeOClUpuiZ4UaD5h_-2PX_C687byX83w28TAro4AvsTahMlwVxCHkGc3oYpgbqbVhknflU2Vukd-alkGcGCBh/s962/SoloAid3.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="802" data-original-width="962" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6b1ibEvX0tkXCQxXHpNzx1MDPDwbg0PPCoXO6pfPyFLuhBXUkVrIwQVg5dbVWgByeZ3PXR-Lg1FpqcJxlGZki2hRJW7RPQ3d0v4dMeOClUpuiZ4UaD5h_-2PX_C687byX83w28TAro4AvsTahMlwVxCHkGc3oYpgbqbVhknflU2Vukd-alkGcGCBh/s320/SoloAid3.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br />El Mudo ("the mute") out of Mexico by Manuel Larios, is the newest soloing device since the Silent Partner, Soloist, and Solo Aid to be designed specifically for rope soloing. Many devices are currently being used but they are all repurposed as soloing devices and used outside the parameters of their design and are usually expressively forbidden to be used for soloing by their manufactures. However many of us still use and modify them for that purpose. Now the soloing world has a new purposely designed and built device for rope soloing - El Mudo 2.0. It is interesting to note the similarity in form to the old Rock Exotica Solo Aid, though it did not self-feed and there other differences. I'm just noting the form factor similarity.<p></p><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">In these initial observations and tests I’ll compare the El Mudo to a GG3*/GG+* HUB set-up since that is what it most closely resembles in setup and function. Some might say it would be relevant to compare it also to the Soloist, however because it's no longer available (and I dumped mine years ago), I'll only mention it in passing. However, from memory, I'd say it very similar to the Soloist - maybe a bit more finicky in setting up but with equivalent performance, maybe slightly smoother feed with the added ability to easily lower/rappel. Lock-ups are also probably more positive from what I can remember with the Soloist.</p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">The Mudo works by having a brake pivot that is inserted into the body and is secured by the security pin/axle. The rope feeds up from the bottom around the top of the brake pivot much like a bearing surface or pulley, then back down and out to the bottom rope anchor. The pivot brake is held up by a 'biner connected to a chest harness. This pulls the pivot brake up away from the body and allows the rope to feed freely. The brake pivot is somewhat "floating" in that the pin/axle is in an elongated hole in the body and because of the slot in the pivot brake, it is free to slide up and down and move slightly back and forth. During a fall or a high-clip the brake pivot is pulled down into the body and pivots and pinches the rope on both the leading edge of the body going in and the trailing edge coming out. This assures a secure brake on the rope and provides more contact area than the Grigri design which only pinches the rope in one place by the cam arm.</p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEissIL6NhUBsa6x-OxqR2JyL02hhBhduH5jphxPze8bFheMOlfCCqtiuoUqU842bpmrglyPWzEZ_wsK8HH-KabYgo7ofWSP-0P0cMqwhE1xAiLxxx2j64hw1Op8wdAK3kMMSztuwd1K8XEEwVlH4pUn0eXxWTCk7Imby_qEIByZVxx4x7Ekts5ze30p/s2661/20220922_165331-01.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2661" data-original-width="2661" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEissIL6NhUBsa6x-OxqR2JyL02hhBhduH5jphxPze8bFheMOlfCCqtiuoUqU842bpmrglyPWzEZ_wsK8HH-KabYgo7ofWSP-0P0cMqwhE1xAiLxxx2j64hw1Op8wdAK3kMMSztuwd1K8XEEwVlH4pUn0eXxWTCk7Imby_qEIByZVxx4x7Ekts5ze30p/w320-h320/20220922_165331-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7OXzMETuwhlZFHr2ua1PTBUUjfVgzXBWpC4eTPYKNKv_h5S4newM2X-mANR1kCojxSfs2GzkjB4MCIHrRAR3j9wkhLA9WZNUGkOYAWBjINSbcIhYUqsuXLlGv7Sadb3rg2lF5XBYta5Cl4dsGnQnWO8xo2CT6feNXzIOk3uL33Uz8l1i1At9u0mB1/s3056/20220922_163720-01.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3056" data-original-width="3056" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7OXzMETuwhlZFHr2ua1PTBUUjfVgzXBWpC4eTPYKNKv_h5S4newM2X-mANR1kCojxSfs2GzkjB4MCIHrRAR3j9wkhLA9WZNUGkOYAWBjINSbcIhYUqsuXLlGv7Sadb3rg2lF5XBYta5Cl4dsGnQnWO8xo2CT6feNXzIOk3uL33Uz8l1i1At9u0mB1/w320-h320/20220922_163720-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Feed Lock-up</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgH1kY_HH6xQ046sHP-TCFLNqZED979J9czEZH2Lu9ozSxvdfrS7o8NSlqiyCiLUoOcuuUVpMoIzbUpmpXMBbq-8-eAk_IfUpyDpE2JbySEguieI-Aep5b1LbMelpuWDKquLbfh_M6k-d5hWH7oBIXYJ75_Zq0DD9X5NNPbAMr7HRdcjmSMpS2r8uB/s2785/20220922_165048-01.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2785" data-original-width="2785" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgH1kY_HH6xQ046sHP-TCFLNqZED979J9czEZH2Lu9ozSxvdfrS7o8NSlqiyCiLUoOcuuUVpMoIzbUpmpXMBbq-8-eAk_IfUpyDpE2JbySEguieI-Aep5b1LbMelpuWDKquLbfh_M6k-d5hWH7oBIXYJ75_Zq0DD9X5NNPbAMr7HRdcjmSMpS2r8uB/s320/20220922_165048-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJBZ4xjO3ZegJ7JiSBHOlxPqJoq1i-mYiE6siTof6pocH1Av5J9fb_ViRqNoIBrRbR8_d-q_Iqc4OoSXY7bMp7vi-KE9b0EpGVarPNvWsUgu78Ufrz1-jLFw6M_e7NcAnhtFEft_a5RDy1oJhynYfHHonLG3iDjCUljyfVI_alQtnV9enHs-MqX1yg/s2467/20220922_164925-01.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2467" data-original-width="2467" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJBZ4xjO3ZegJ7JiSBHOlxPqJoq1i-mYiE6siTof6pocH1Av5J9fb_ViRqNoIBrRbR8_d-q_Iqc4OoSXY7bMp7vi-KE9b0EpGVarPNvWsUgu78Ufrz1-jLFw6M_e7NcAnhtFEft_a5RDy1oJhynYfHHonLG3iDjCUljyfVI_alQtnV9enHs-MqX1yg/s320/20220922_164925-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Before I go any further I'll summarize some basic stats and a summary of my impressions that will be detailed further down in the article. </p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><google-sheets-html-origin></google-sheets-html-origin></p><table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" dir="ltr" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt; table-layout: fixed; width: 0px;" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"><colgroup><col width="155"></col><col width="287"></col><col width="300"></col></colgroup><tbody><tr style="height: 21px;"><td style="border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;"></td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"El Mudo V2"}" style="border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; font-size: 18pt; font-weight: bold; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle;">El Mudo V2</td><td data-sheets-textstyleruns="{"1":0}{"1":13,"2":{"4":10,"5":0}}" data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"GG3* / GG+* (with HUB cord*)"}" style="border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; font-size: 18pt; font-weight: bold; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom; white-space: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 18pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: bold;">GG3* / GG+* </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt; font-style: normal;">(with HUB cord*)</span></td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"size"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;">size</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"9.8 x 6.5 x 4 cm"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom;">9.8 x 6.5 x 4 cm</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"10 x 6 x 4.5 cm"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom;">10 x 6 x 4.5 cm</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"device weight"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;">device weight</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"356g"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom;">356g</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"GG3* - 176g GG+ - 201 g"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom;">GG3* - 176g GG+ - 201 g</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"climbing weight (harness attachment and chest harness attachment)"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">climbing weight (harness attachment and chest harness attachment)</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"472g\nincluding 8mm cord and pear 'biner "}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">472g<br />including 8mm cord and pear 'biner</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"GG3* - 286g GG+ - 311g \nincludes maillon, HUB cord, and \nstainless clip for chest harness"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">GG3* - 286g GG+ - 311g<br />includes maillon, HUB cord, and<br />stainless clip for chest harness</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"cost"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;">cost</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"$140 + shipping "}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom;">$140 + shipping</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"GG3* - $75-$88 GG+ $77-$140"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom;">GG3* - $75-$88 GG+ $77-$140</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"harness attachment"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;">harness attachment</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"8mm accessory cord or webbing**"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom;">8mm accessory cord or webbing**</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"8mm rated maillon or steel 'biner"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;">8mm rated maillon or steel 'biner</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"recommended rope size"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: middle;">recommended rope size</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"9.8-10.5 (probably could go down to 9.5 - needs testing 10.5 seems too big to me. Realistically, probably 9.7 to 10.0 is the sweet spot depending on the specific rope"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom; white-space: normal;">9.8-10.5 (probably could go down to 9.5 - needs testing 10.5 seems too big to me. Realistically, probably 9.7 to 10.0 is the sweet spot depending on the specific rope</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"8.5-11 (realistically 9.0 - 9.7 for LRS)"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle;">8.5-11 (realistically 9.0 - 9.7 for LRS)</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"rope characteristics"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;">rope characteristics</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"flexible/pliable/smooth"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom;">flexible/pliable/smooth</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"flexible/pliable/smooth"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom;">flexible/pliable/smooth</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"device construction"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;">device construction</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"all stainless steel!!!"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom;">all stainless steel!!!</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"seel/aluminum/plastic"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom;">seel/aluminum/plastic</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"construction assessment"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: middle;">construction assessment</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"super bomber - high quality - heavy duty"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">super bomber - high quality - heavy duty</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"adequate - based on long history of use for LRS"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom; white-space: normal;">adequate - based on long history of use for LRS</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"lowering"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: middle;">lowering</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"add 'biner to use as handle to unlock and lower"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: middle;">add 'biner to use as handle to unlock and lower</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"integral handle: GG3* - super smooth GG+ - is a scourge because of anti-panic handle"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom; white-space: normal;">integral handle: GG3* - super smooth GG+ - is a scourge because of anti-panic handle</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"high clip lock-up"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;">high clip lock-up</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"yes"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom;">yes</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"GG3* - yes GG+ - yes, but spring slightly delays"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;">GG3* - yes GG+ - yes, but spring slightly delays</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"needs chest harness"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;">needs chest harness</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"yes"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom;">yes</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"yes"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom;">yes</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"chest harness attachment"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: middle;">chest harness attachment</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"round stock symetrical pear 'biner"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle;">round stock symetrical pear 'biner</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"needs mod: drill for 2.5-3mm cord and then use small stainless non-climbing rated clip/'biner"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">needs mod: drill for 2.5-3mm cord and then use small stainless non-climbing rated clip/'biner</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"purposely designed and made for LRS"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom; white-space: normal;">purposely designed and made for LRS</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"yes"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle;">yes</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"no - must be modified and is beyond it's designed purpose and specs"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom; white-space: normal;">no - must be modified and is beyond it's designed purpose and specs</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"needs cache loop"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;">needs cache loop</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"yes, for best feed"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle;">yes, for best feed</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"yes, for best feed"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle;">yes, for best feed</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td style="border: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;"></td><td style="border: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;"></td><td style="border: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;"></td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"* GG3 with deactivated spring"}" style="border: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom; white-space: normal;">* GG3 with deactivated spring</td><td colspan="2" data-sheets-hyperlink="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2022/08/deactivating-spring-in-grigri-3-for.html" data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2022/08/deactivating-spring-in-grigri-3-for.html"}" rowspan="1" style="border: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); color: #1155cc; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: bottom;"><a class="in-cell-link" href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2022/08/deactivating-spring-in-grigri-3-for.html" target="_blank">https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2022/08/deactivating-spring-in-grigri-3-for.html</a></td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"* GG+ in TR mode"}" style="border: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;">* GG+ in TR mode</td><td style="border: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;"></td><td style="border: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;"></td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"* HUB cord"}" style="border: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;">* HUB cord</td><td data-sheets-hyperlink="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2022/08/grigri-3-hub-system-for-lead-rope.html" data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2022/08/grigri-3-hub-system-for-lead-rope.html"}" style="border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) transparent rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: visible; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;"><div style="left: 3px; overflow: hidden; position: relative; white-space: nowrap; width: 583px;"><div style="float: left;">https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2022/08/grigri-3-hub-system-for-lead-rope.html</div></div></td><td style="border: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;"></td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"** see below for a way to rig to make it easy to put on/off"}" style="border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) transparent rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: visible; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;"><div style="left: 3px; overflow: hidden; position: relative; white-space: nowrap; width: 438px;"><div style="float: left;">** see below for a way to rig to make it easy to put on/off</div></div></td><td style="border: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;"></td><td style="border: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;"></td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td style="border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;"></td><td colspan="2" data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"FUNCTIONALITY*"}" rowspan="1" style="border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; font-size: 14pt; font-weight: bold; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom;">FUNCTIONALITY*</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"ease of set-up"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom; white-space: normal;">ease of set-up</td><td data-sheets-numberformat="{"1":5,"2":"m/d","3":1}" data-sheets-value="{"1":3,"3":44722}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle;">6/10</td><td data-sheets-numberformat="{"1":5,"2":"m/d","3":1}" data-sheets-value="{"1":3,"3":44752}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle;">7/10</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"rope pairing"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom; white-space: normal;">rope pairing</td><td data-sheets-numberformat="{"1":5,"2":"m/d","3":1}" data-sheets-value="{"1":3,"3":44691}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle;">5/10</td><td data-sheets-numberformat="{"1":5,"2":"m/d","3":1}" data-sheets-value="{"1":3,"3":44752}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle;">7/10</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"overall degree of confidence in device"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom; white-space: normal;">overall degree of confidence in device</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"9/10 \n(once set up correctly)"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle;">9/10<br />(once set up correctly)</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"GG3* - 8/10 GG+ - 7/10"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle;">GG3* - 8/10 GG+ - 7/10</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"functionality for LRS"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">functionality for LRS</td><td data-sheets-numberformat="{"1":5,"2":"m/d","3":1}" data-sheets-value="{"1":3,"3":44783}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">8/10</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":" GG3* - 8/10 GG+ - 7/10"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">GG3* - 8/10 GG+ - 7/10</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"overal usability and ease of use"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">overal usability and ease of use</td><td data-sheets-numberformat="{"1":5,"2":"m/d","3":1}" data-sheets-value="{"1":3,"3":44752}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">7/10</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"GG3* - 9/10 GG+ - 7/10"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">GG3* - 9/10 GG+ - 7/10</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"versatility"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">versatility</td><td data-sheets-numberformat="{"1":5,"2":"m/d","3":1}" data-sheets-value="{"1":3,"3":44722}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">6/10</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":" GG3* - 7/10 GG+ - 8/10"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">GG3* - 7/10 GG+ - 8/10</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"suitable for multi-pitching?"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">suitable for multi-pitching?</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"Possible but a bit of hassle - have to un-rig to add a TRS device. Best for cragging"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom; white-space: normal;">Possible but a bit of hassle - have to un-rig to add a TRS device. Best for cragging</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"Yes - but have to swap out for TR Solo device or pull rope while ascending"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">Yes - but have to swap out for TR Solo device or pull rope while ascending</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"can be used for belaying up second?"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom; white-space: normal;">can be used for belaying up second?</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"no - only if belaying off harness \nand redirecting through anchor"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">no - only if belaying off harness<br />and redirecting through anchor</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"yes - super easy to belay off anchor"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle;">yes - super easy to belay off anchor</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"can be used to belay leader or top roping?"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">can be used to belay leader or top roping?</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"yes - similar to an ABD \nfeeding rope to leader takes practice"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">yes - similar to an ABD<br />feeding rope to leader takes practice</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"yes - purposely designed for (GG3* needs a bit of a modified technique) GG+ - dual spring modes "}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom; white-space: normal;">yes - purposely designed for (GG3* needs a bit of a modified technique) GG+ - dual spring modes</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"true auto lock-up belaying with hands off"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom; white-space: normal;">true auto lock-up belaying with hands off</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"yes"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">yes</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"GG3* - yes GG+ - yes, in TR mode but not \n as fast/positive as GG3*"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">GG3* - yes GG+ - yes, in TR mode but not<br />as fast/positive as GG3*</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"putting on / off / loading rope"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">putting on / off / loading rope</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"Flat Fig-8 or Double Fishermens tie-in with 8mm cord - alternate attachment - see text"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">Flat Fig-8 or Double Fishermens tie-in with 8mm cord - alternate attachment - see text</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"steel 'biner or maillon"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">steel 'biner or maillon</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"feed while climbing **"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: middle;">feed while climbing **</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"good - dependent on rigging and rope. Takes some finessing to optimize but ultimately a smooth balanced feed "}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">good - dependent on rigging and rope. Takes some finessing to optimize but ultimately a smooth balanced feed</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"good - depending upon rope and rigging. Takes a bit of finessing with setting up and adjusting the HUB cord. "}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">good - depending upon rope and rigging. Takes a bit of finessing with setting up and adjusting the HUB cord.</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"creep after lock-up"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: middle;">creep after lock-up</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"yes, depending upon rope \nrope-pairing is critical"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom; white-space: normal;">yes, depending upon rope<br />rope-pairing is critical</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"no"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle;">no</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"high clip lock-up"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;">high clip lock-up</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"yes"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom;">yes</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"GG3* - yes GG+* - yes-slight delay due to spring"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;">GG3* - yes GG+* - yes-slight delay due to spring</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"lowering"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: middle;">lowering</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"add 'biner to use as handle to unlock pivot brake and lower"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; white-space: normal;">add 'biner to use as handle to unlock pivot brake and lower</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"GG3* - integral super smooth\nGG+ - is a scourge because of anti-panic handle"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom; white-space: normal;">GG3* - integral super smooth<br />GG+ - is a scourge because of anti-panic handle</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"holds inverted falls"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: middle;">holds inverted falls</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"no - only with suggested supplemental Prusik/Kleimheist cache loop/backup"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom; white-space: normal;">no - only with suggested supplemental Prusik/Kleimheist cache loop/backup</td><td data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"no - only with some type of backup"}" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(204, 204, 204) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(0, 0, 0) rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: initial; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle;">no - only with some type of backup</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td colspan="3" data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"* This is my subjective impression and evaluation based on my limited use, the equipment I have and the methods described here and via the links. Further insight will be discussed in the review below."}" rowspan="1" style="border: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); overflow-wrap: break-word; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom; white-space: normal;">* This is my subjective impression and evaluation based on my limited use, the equipment I have and the methods described here and via the links. Further insight will be discussed in the review below.</td></tr><tr style="height: 21px;"><td colspan="3" data-sheets-value="{"1":2,"2":"** See the \"feed discussion below in the review."}" rowspan="1" style="border: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 3px; vertical-align: bottom;">** See the "feed discussion below in the review.</td></tr></tbody></table><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b><br /></b></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b>CONSTRUCTION</b></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">The construction is super bomber because of the stainless steel and the thickness of it. I don’t think there is any way that they device would ever break before the rope did. Some pull and drop tests could confirm that. In fact, I would think that future versions of it could be lightened by thinning the walls of the body by 25-30% and thinning and rounding off the excess material on the ends. Alternatively the body could be made out of aluminum. I personally would like to see the lightening holes in the sides of the body like v1 had. I see no reason how or why it would interfere with the function of it. Many ATC devices have lightening holes in the sides of the body (i.e. see the BD Guide)</p><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><br /></p><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><b>SETUP </b></p><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><b><br /></b></p><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;">The body is tied into the harness with 8mm accessory cord with a rethreaded flat figure-8 or double fishermen's bend. This is a bit of a hassle by contemporary standards but certainly effective and light weight and with no possibility of cross-loading. I suppose over time it will become easier to tie but certainly it is not user friendly for switching devices. An alternative setup that I came up with is to tie a loop with 5/8" tubular webbing with a maillon to secure the loop ends. This makes it easier to get on and off. The "price" you pay for this is the additional weight of the maillon.</p><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtS_K40mvBUx8XMCIo2MIW3B2Rub0ividMzPefiFDp_OBKfk0Va70cbTIPvz_vaCKC2OybdsrbNqI7bQ81uipXKybYER5kO-fVpz64HSA5CT_yS2w1gwrHLau9fcT6eP4Oi1nIiMMk3sug02I2Vpa30ZAeyRUtVYZH_vZHDLxY55MrkzCl02OrfaZv/s2124/20221014_125309-01.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2124" data-original-width="2124" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtS_K40mvBUx8XMCIo2MIW3B2Rub0ividMzPefiFDp_OBKfk0Va70cbTIPvz_vaCKC2OybdsrbNqI7bQ81uipXKybYER5kO-fVpz64HSA5CT_yS2w1gwrHLau9fcT6eP4Oi1nIiMMk3sug02I2Vpa30ZAeyRUtVYZH_vZHDLxY55MrkzCl02OrfaZv/s320/20221014_125309-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbmBehAL2jKBla4M04ej-Pelm3F6Prj74TcmneyfCc-vvukxyye837dOlcX1dV5eJUYAiMYGEyRvBo94cYTFttIcClZ9iLujNrSIP5IY2wZ7G1ROB6_c2gGkYrU-YqnHZmcEx9t8ULEzUMl19YjXCOsLizq62V7uWLm3KQMN3Y2OnRVrkqOCFaY7Sj/s2079/20221014_125902-01.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2079" data-original-width="2079" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbmBehAL2jKBla4M04ej-Pelm3F6Prj74TcmneyfCc-vvukxyye837dOlcX1dV5eJUYAiMYGEyRvBo94cYTFttIcClZ9iLujNrSIP5IY2wZ7G1ROB6_c2gGkYrU-YqnHZmcEx9t8ULEzUMl19YjXCOsLizq62V7uWLm3KQMN3Y2OnRVrkqOCFaY7Sj/s320/20221014_125902-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a><br /><br /></div><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;">I have also heard of another climber who used a large steel oval to tie is with and the 'biner went around both the waist belt and the leg loop strap. While <b>NOT </b>recommended by the designer, the user reported that it worked well, though one needed to make sure that it was free to rotate and slide on the 'biner. Also, when putting axle on/off, it is no longer held to the body (like with a cord tie-in). Therefore using a small dia. cord through the provided holes in the body and axle would probably be a good idea so that nothing is dropped when putting on/off. </p><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><br /></p><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;">I had hoped that Petzl Omni might work because of the large diameter smooth curve which would be perfect. But alas, the cross-section diameter of the 'biner stock is too large to get through the Mudo hole tie in point. </p><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b>BRAKE PIVOT 'BINER</b></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">The 'biner used to hold the brake pivot up and connected to the chest harness in fairly finicky. I have found a lot of ‘biners that don’t work. Many ‘biners don’t work because: have too large a nose; I-beam construction that unpredictably hangs up on the "ears" of the brake pivot; cross-section of the ‘biner is too large (Dmm Oval) to fit the pivot; ‘biners with that are too slanting (too acute an angle); or having gate openings that are too small to fit the width of brake pivot, etc.</p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvh10uYs25zOrgomFxLtSmrl3bDsYG1-bkKT0UMpS-C819kGace2gk0Y7o7s6Wwrvnu6MmuLnqQTUsiQ-VorcvtFcySPuzghWWb4FtfBb0J523xaFcUrevms8jQypgN72sfnchb1m_S8JDnsRl3n-DXcdpIkVtcsl0MyJRzrJrF2qamJZ6-l7JXHc5/s1600/20220923_112827-01.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvh10uYs25zOrgomFxLtSmrl3bDsYG1-bkKT0UMpS-C819kGace2gk0Y7o7s6Wwrvnu6MmuLnqQTUsiQ-VorcvtFcySPuzghWWb4FtfBb0J523xaFcUrevms8jQypgN72sfnchb1m_S8JDnsRl3n-DXcdpIkVtcsl0MyJRzrJrF2qamJZ6-l7JXHc5/s320/20220923_112827-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi45xNrDONBksFp3nPA178BiShXfO1fCbIHyN7xSmj1bJiu4yH_7n8qDMPGaynXsUGYK-lvXScPOrKDogSdBNNUmBCmqhx8cX9z1GXF-aUIvlKNwHBjgkNgDed2i3dKUTG3fNDCGu9q1JRZnOtI2KFf-LbMG_10UvuJmzUMf_LXQBsEdrFEP4e5rcDz/s1600/20220923_112605-01.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi45xNrDONBksFp3nPA178BiShXfO1fCbIHyN7xSmj1bJiu4yH_7n8qDMPGaynXsUGYK-lvXScPOrKDogSdBNNUmBCmqhx8cX9z1GXF-aUIvlKNwHBjgkNgDed2i3dKUTG3fNDCGu9q1JRZnOtI2KFf-LbMG_10UvuJmzUMf_LXQBsEdrFEP4e5rcDz/s320/20220923_112605-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">'biners that don't work 'biners that work</div><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">In general pear 'biners work the best - especially those made from round stock. So far the one that works the best is a small old round stock Petzl Attache. Generally more symmetrical pear ‘biners work. Since it's only used to connect to chest harness and hold the weight of the rope for good feeding, even key-chain type aluminum 'biners can work. <br /><br />Best 'biner for Pivot Pinch Pin: Metolius Element or Attache; BD Pearlock; Rock Exotica Pirate; DMM Phantom; and Wild Country Xenon.</p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b>CHEST HARNESS</b></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b><br /></b></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">A chest harness is required for holding the Pivot Brake 'biner up. I did not test with a full chest harness but with both a Petzl Torse and an improvised chest sling made both with a length of 3/4" webbing or with two, 2' slings. I prefer those to a heavier dedicated chest harness since it's main function is to hold the pivot 'biner and rope up so that it feeds well, I found any of those to be adequate. Others may prefer a full chest harness. </p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b>SETUP AND ADJUSTMENT</b></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">The adjustment and relationship between the chest harness, pivot 'biner, the Mudo body, and harness connection is critical for proper functioning and feed. It requires a bit of experimenting to get everything adjust so that it optimally feeds and locks up when weighted. The designer has stated that it is important to keep the body as close to the harness as possible. Using a cord to tie-in, this is somewhat difficult because of the tight access and space once the harness is and trying to tie and dress the knot. This may be one reason to use 3/4" tubular webbing and a maillon as shown above.</p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><b>ROPES </b></p><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><b><br /></b></p><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;">The suggested rope size ranges from 9.8 to 10.5. that are fairly new and pliable. From my limited experience of trying different ropes, I would think a new pliable rope of around 9.7 to 10.0 would be ideal. I didn't have access to one so I just had to try various ropes (10 of them) that I have from a new 9.4 Beal Stinger through to an old 10.2 Mammut Supersafe. Finding the right rope to maximize ease of feed and minimize creep is definitely a challenge - the device seems to be fairly finicky in my tests. Less forgiving so than my GG3* setup for sure. </p><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><br /></p><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><b>FEED/CREEP/BACKFEED</b></p><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;">I found feed with the 9.4 and 9.5 ropes that I have to be wonderful and slightly better than than either of my GG HUB setups. However both are below the recommended rope size (9.8-10.5). At the larger rope sizes 10.0-10.5 to be too large for good rope feed. However, this really is dependent upon the specific rope. It's hard to make any generalizations. I also found that the lock-up and high-clip was just as good the GG set-ups. </p><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><br /></p><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;">HOWEVER, I did run into a sliding creep down the rope once it locked up. Creep ranged from ~5"/sec with a slick/pliable 9.4 Beal Stinger .5" second with an older 9.9 used fuzzy rope that feeds decently but still had some creep, though not as much as the 9.4. The 9.4 is well outside the suggested rope size limit so that is somewhat understandable. However I have a 9.9 which to me would seem an ideal rope size for the Mudo but it still had some rope creep which was annoying. Only large diameter stiffer ropes (10.2-10.5) had no creep. However ropes of this size didn't feed well in my experience. </p><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><br /></p><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;">The whole rope creep thing is interesting because among other users some have found no creep while others have found almost as much creep as my smaller 9.4 but with a 9.7. I find it a bit annoying to start slowly sliding down the rope. It is easy to remedy by flipping a bite of rope around the free end of the Mudo body as shown below but should not be required when hanging on a rope. It will be interesting to see as others gain more experience what they experience as far as creep. At this point I find it perplexing the wide discrepancy that others have reported from absolutely zero creep at lock-up to almost as much creep as I've experienced. I have not experienced this with my GG set-ups using the same ropes. At this point, it remains somewhat of a mystery what exactly is the culprit since the results with different people and different ropes are all over the place. It does NOT seem to be the set up as I changed all kinds of variables in the waist belt and chest harness attachments and it did not seem to affect the results for me. It would be nice if they could sort this out and make the necessary modification before a v3 is released.</p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-4gqpWl6sXZ-aVQ6D_2wg-LG_0zEnELNz2X0d_f98tQBaRBi-vIzJfZ2uZ_wgiNHy0eRKaf3n1CvOY8pg2zzuzjFyug8u79GpVHNBG8b-orZc0FE0x5WQ4E_h4VA3XrfVC-h2zho-BioCEbv36upAjtGi0YfkHu14U6RLhR5M2TlqhbxIXvENkJou/s1600/20221001_124452.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-4gqpWl6sXZ-aVQ6D_2wg-LG_0zEnELNz2X0d_f98tQBaRBi-vIzJfZ2uZ_wgiNHy0eRKaf3n1CvOY8pg2zzuzjFyug8u79GpVHNBG8b-orZc0FE0x5WQ4E_h4VA3XrfVC-h2zho-BioCEbv36upAjtGi0YfkHu14U6RLhR5M2TlqhbxIXvENkJou/s320/20221001_124452.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">At one point I thought maybe the climber's weight has something to do with rope creep. I'm a lightweight at 125-130 lb which it seems would be counterintuitive as a contributing rope creep factor. Some heavier climber have not experienced the rope creep while others in the 175 lb range have experienced almost as much as me. It seems like it is more a function of the size/sheath weave/dry treatment/newness of rope/ and the pliability of it. Maybe the bottom line at this point is to find a rope that works like others have done with the Eddie and GG1 and then stick with that rope. Unfortunately, at this point, I don't want to have to go out and buy a new rope in the 9.7.99 range.</p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b><br /></b></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b>LOCK-UP</b></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">As I mentioned the Mudo locks up well whether a high clip or an actual fall, though I'll leave it to the young bucks to actually take whippers on it. At 71, I'm old school where the mind-set is that you just don't fall. I've tested it enough though to know that I can trust it should I have an unexpected fall. If you want a system that you can trust will catch you, I feel the Mudo is about as safe as one can be. I climb conservatively and if I get in over my head on a climb or get pumped out, usually I just just put a piece in and hang on the device. Thus the high clip capability is important to me. My real back-up is me: my experience: knowing my capabilities and climbing within them. </p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b>INVERTED FALLS</b></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">A head first fall is a "weakness" of the Mudo, but is no different than a Soloist, or a GG and a HUB system. The chest harness pinning the solo device down so that is can't pivot independent of the climbers body orientation is the "culprit". For those who use this type of device, it is just part of the "cost" of doing business and one needs to take back-up precautions with any device held vertical with a chest harness. It should never be used without some time of good and reliable backup system.</p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b>CACHE LOOP / BACKUP</b></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">The owner's manual suggests using a combo cache loop and back-up knot/third hand consisting of a kleimheist/prusik loop attached around the harness waist belt on the back/side. This serves a dual purpose of maintaining a cache loop while at the same time maintaining a back-up knot that will pull tight when the cache loop runs out and act as a third hand to trigger the lock-up of the device. Or, when it runs into the body of the Mudo and stops the fall that way. This is a low-tech and innovative way to handle both. The down-side is that unless you have two hands free, you have to hold the rope in your mouth while cradling the Kleimheist in your hand sliding it along the rope to increase slack in the cache loop. This low-tech method could work well on any LRS device to serve the dual function of cache loop manager and back-up/third hand.</p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">I personally. prefer to have cache loops clove hitched to 'biners on a reinforced gear loop as shown by (<a href="https://www.brentbarghahn.com/climbing-blog/redpoint-rope-soloing-2021">https://www.brentbarghahn.com/climbing-blog/redpoint-rope-soloing-2021</a>). As you progress and the cache loop runs out you simply reach down and drop off another loop. See linked article for a full description. The benefit is that you don't have to muck around with hold the rope in your mouth and pulling the slack out and it's very quick and easy to release a new loop. The downside is you're carrying more weight on the waste belt of the harness.</p><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Manual Larios also is developing a custom ATC type device called the Yomi which will allow you to pull slack similar to a Micro Trax but also locks ups like a ATC in guide mode should the cache loop run out. I’m looking forward to seeing and hearing more about it in the future. It could streamline the cache loop/backup process for the Mudo and other LRS devices.</p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">I would love to see someone do some inverted drop tests with a full body weight dummy, both with and without the Kleimheist/Prusik to confirm that it will only lock up when the cache loop runs out. Could it be possible that the Mudo will lock without the back-up in a head first fall? I doubt it, but it would be good information to have knowing that most likely even in an inverted fall that it would lock before the knot came tight or hit the body. All this is conjecture till someone performs some actual drop tests to simulate an inverted fall. </p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b><br /></b></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b>LOWERING / RAPPELLING</b></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">One main advantage that the Mudo has over the Soloist is that you can lower at any point in the climb by inserting a 'biner in the unused hole and pulling on it like a handle to release the Mudo which works well and gives a smooth decent. This is not quite as simple as a GG3 where you can simply pull on the handle to lower. However on the positive side there is no handle to get caught on any thing during a fall and hinder a lock-up. Just make sure you have a spare 'biner that fit the hole of the Mudo well.</p><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b>CONCLUSION</b></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Is the Mudo v2 a valuable addition to the world of LRS? I'd say it definitely is. It's no small task to design and manufacture a LRS. Manuel Larios has also shown a willingness to embrace feedback to constantly increase the quality and functionality of his product. Is it the right device for you? That depends upon many factors and how you rate and value those factors. Only you will be able to determine that. If you want a bomber device specifically designed for LRS and don't mind the initial setup, rope pairing of finding the right rope in the 9.7-10.0 range, the extra work putting the device on/off and also don't mind running some type of back-up for inverted falls, then it may be ideal for you. If you're a tinker and don't mind modifying a device that's not intended for LRS, want instant lock up with smaller ropes (9.0-9.7), then a GG3* costs less, are easier to rig and lighter and more versatile, then maybe that's the device for you. Functionally with the mods I've done, the GG3* is very similar to the Mudo. Most however will not want the added burden of modifying the GG and many will value the fact that the Mudo was designed ground-up for soloing.</p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">If you're more concerned about inverted falls and want the device itself to be able to stop them itself (without having to rely on a backup system which you should have anyway), then the SP (extinct), Revo, or inverted Grigri setup may be what is best for you but they are outside the current discussion and they each come with their challenges also. There are so many factors and only you can decide. Another good reminder: LRS is dangerous on potentially deadly no matter what device - choose wisely and no the strengths, weaknesses and how the who LRS works together. Ultimately YOU are the backup.</p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b>Suggestions for a future version</b></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">I would love to see the issue of rope creep solved. As I mentioned above, I don't feel that it is a show stopper but it is annoying. It could be that is will be like some other rope soloing devices where rope pairing is critical and that once you find a rope that works well, you stick with brand/size and replace regularly when worn. I will continue to experiment with different ropes and setups in hopes of finding something that will have no/minimal creep. </p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">I can envision a future version of the Mudo that would attach with a maillon/steel 'biner, that has a horizontal 'biner hole (like most devices) and has a side cover that pivots that rotates centrally around the axle like the Silent Partner. This would allow the brake pivot and axle to be permanently attached to the device and easily opened for slipping a bite of rope around the pivot brake, then rotating back closed and held closed by inserting a ‘biner through the body that connects it to the belay loop. This would eliminate the whole process of threading and and tying a rethreaded figure-8 rope, which would make it make it easier for multi-pitching. It would also mean there are not multiple separate parts to drop or get lost. Finally it would aesthetically be a nicer/simpler solution and also potentially lighter. </p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-2rEKrdJLzbnuA9vKyMzQ4Be2PWf6xBOurfE3byWpyAZrzGjjI01FhHQ0qgPdQiO5qeqcIXah712IIiu0WNG3VkglK3B6_ea2E7oSH8CtG_bDFbkPgUY7802sRtmvpTUkIf17DEvFKWMDt0aUUOxAKQ6q5MWxEusN7xsCtLdcldUonNcK2UZ-y23A/s2783/Mudo3.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2783" data-original-width="2453" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-2rEKrdJLzbnuA9vKyMzQ4Be2PWf6xBOurfE3byWpyAZrzGjjI01FhHQ0qgPdQiO5qeqcIXah712IIiu0WNG3VkglK3B6_ea2E7oSH8CtG_bDFbkPgUY7802sRtmvpTUkIf17DEvFKWMDt0aUUOxAKQ6q5MWxEusN7xsCtLdcldUonNcK2UZ-y23A/s320/Mudo3.jpeg" width="282" /></a></div><br /><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">I also think the body could be made with thinner walls or aluminum body. Either of these would lighten the device which I feel is over-built. </p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">It would be nice to have the "HowNot2" guys do some pull and drop test on the Mudo. I don't think there will be an issue with the device breaking, however it would be interesting to gather info re rope slippage. Slippage per se, is not dangerous and can even provide a bit of a cushioned stop. However, slippage beyond a certain point could be disconcerting and dangerous if it is going to significantly increase the length of a fall. Some devices are designed so specifically so that beyond a certain factor, the rope will slip. </p><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">A side note regarding feed and back-feed. Ease of feed and back-feed are indirectly proportional. That is, the easier a device feeds (the more transparent it is while climbing) the more prone to back-feed it will be. Therefore the goal is a happy balance between the two. I think the Mudo has found that balance. It can be adjusted slightly by varying the angle of the body to the brake pivot which is controlled by how tightly or loosely it is rigged to both harnesses.</p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">As always, these are my observations to date and YMMV.</p><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">——————————————————————</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-53445250016715742952022-08-16T11:01:00.063-05:002023-05-28T08:42:34.245-05:00Grigri 3 HUB System for Lead Rope Soloing<p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span><span color="var(--primary-text)" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium; font-weight: bold;">GG3 Cord Mod for Holding Upright and Backwards (HUB System) </span><span style="font-size: xx-small;">updated 5/25/23</span></span></span></p><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-size-adjust: auto;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ6ImD6hGTy1rqjAQYrlZ9G4G-DfqzOY6NYIojGMiF0KMXkWzku0NdMz4zIh7mPDgWUiE7xQNUjt_UdQZTmFo3GflsWCIkfnF953uOFyoPecxasu7CMygAF_3EKqf-rcY5uqOciFqVv4KjvafYU7MCWgAweoplGbegMiUF0GKPTfKK4rxR-xXHteSg/s2576/20220805_113737-01.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2576" data-original-width="1932" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ6ImD6hGTy1rqjAQYrlZ9G4G-DfqzOY6NYIojGMiF0KMXkWzku0NdMz4zIh7mPDgWUiE7xQNUjt_UdQZTmFo3GflsWCIkfnF953uOFyoPecxasu7CMygAF_3EKqf-rcY5uqOciFqVv4KjvafYU7MCWgAweoplGbegMiUF0GKPTfKK4rxR-xXHteSg/w480-h640/20220805_113737-01.jpeg" width="480" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql oi732d6d ik7dh3pa ht8s03o8 jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word; word-wrap: break-word;">This post will detail the HUB method for LRS. The acronym comes from the Grigri being <b>H</b>eld <b>U</b>pside-down and <b>B</b>ackwards from how it is normally attached to the belay loop for belaying a lead climber. This has been done for years using various different methods and modifications. I think I remember seeing the Euros doing it decades ago before I saw it here in the US. The HUB Cord method I detail here however is, as far as I know, unique.</span><span> Over the years I’ve modded GGs different ways to be held up, but so far this seems like the best yet. I</span></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">had four design criteria for attaching it to a chest harness:</span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-size-adjust: auto;"><ol style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Mod needs to be easy to do</span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Attachment point to the GG needs to be strong - not supported by plastic</span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">The angle that it hangs from the chest harness needs to be adjustable</span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Cord needs to be kept away from the rope path and the GG handle which could interfere with lock-up</span></li></ol></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span><span>Although I use it with </span><span>a </span></span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span>GG3 with a deactivated spring or a</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span> GG+ (TRS mode), it's possible to use with other GGs with the spring intact. However this is untested by me and I would wonder about its ability to lock-up in a high-clip situation. Others like <a href="https://www.brentbarghahn.com/climbing-blog/redpoint-rope-soloing-2021" target="_blank">Brent Barghahn</a> use a GG3 in the HUB position without modifying the spring (As of My '23 I believe Brent now uses a GG+ in TR mode). </span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Also of note</b>: <b>testing by Yan Camus and others indicate that a GG+ in TR mode and HUB position may not always lock up when weighting it slowly in a high clip situation.</b> </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Using a GG3 with deactivated spring and the HUB System is the equivalent to a Rock Exotica Soloist or El Mudo but has the added ability to easily lower/rappel without adding or swapping anything out. </span></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql oi732d6d ik7dh3pa ht8s03o8 jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word; word-wrap: break-word;">First a discussion of the HUB System vs the Inverted hanging position. </span>I feel the Inverted (hanging facing backwards) GG along with the running cache loop popularized in the last few years, are two of the best innovations for using a GG for LRS. Having said that, there may still be good reasons for some to prefer the HUB system I detail here. </span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql oi732d6d ik7dh3pa ht8s03o8 jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-family: inherit; font-size: medium; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word; word-wrap: break-word;"><i>Ultimately it will depend on what you value most and the type of LRS you do as to which system might be best for you. The purpose of this post is not to convince you of either, but to inform of options…more specifically the HUB option since the Inverted method has been detailed many other places.</i></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql oi732d6d ik7dh3pa ht8s03o8 jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-family: inherit; font-size: medium; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word; word-wrap: break-word;">Comparing and contrasting the two systems:</span></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql oi732d6d ik7dh3pa ht8s03o8 jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-family: inherit; font-size: medium; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word; word-wrap: break-word;">HUB System (assumes use with a springless GG or GG+ in TR mode)</span></h3><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql oi732d6d ik7dh3pa ht8s03o8 jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-family: inherit; font-size: medium; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word; word-wrap: break-word;"><b>Advantages</b></span></h4><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-size-adjust: auto;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Less possibility of high clip failure - quick and more positive lock up.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">GG is held higher and in a better position to pull slack for clipping. Especially handy for those with short ape index like me. </span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Less tendency to flip over backwards because of chest harness however it’s still possible.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span>Less flip-flopping around during a fall, thus reducing the length of fall - up to a foot less. </span><span>This can be important if you are climbing on vertical or less terrain and there’s objective fall hazards.</span></span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Can adjust the feed resistance (and thus back-feed) by adjusting angle of the GG with the HUB cord.</span></li></ul></div><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><b>Disadvantages</b></span></h4><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-size-adjust: auto;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">It most likely won’t hold a head first fall (unless backed-up - which I consider mandatory). Needs more testing though. Volunteers?! 😊</span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">May not feed as well traversing - needs more real world testing.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Requires a chest/shoulder sling/harness which is a hassle and may take a bit of effort to get everything fine tuned.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Can’t pull rope directly up for a high clip - it will lock instantly and short rope you (springless GG, and GG+). <b>However</b>, if you <b>pull slack down, then clip-up</b>, it works like a charm. Once learned this becomes natural. (It’s the same movement as pulling more slack for the cache loop if you are using that method). Many people who use the Inverted GG method also pull a slack loop down before clipping up and is the norm for a Soloist and an El Mudo</span></li></ul></div><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Discussion</span></h4><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span>Better for </span>vertical to less than vertical routes that don’t wander much and might have objective hazards. It is good for those who want peace of mind that high clips will always lock-up instantly if weighted. It’s a better set up for hang dogging, aid climbing, and routes where the crux is closer to the ground. </span></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Inverted GG (</span>Hanging Backwards) </h3><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><b>Advantages</b></span></h4><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-size-adjust: auto;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Potentially holds inverted falls</span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Feeds fairly well in all orientations because it it free hanging and can orient itself to the direction of rope pull</span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Can pull directly up to clip (depends upon rope pairing)</span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Simpler setup - no necessary mods or chest harness</span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Could be a slightly softer lock-up because of the strong spring</span></li></ul></div><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><b>Disadvantages</b></span></h4><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-size-adjust: auto;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Takes longer to lock up because of it’s hanging orientation: needs to flip 180 degs and travel from the hanging to upright position</span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Not as convenient to pull slack for those with short ape indexes. Have to reach down further to pull slack.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Has proven not to lock-up on high clips or when sagging on rope without a significant jerk (as Yann Camus has demonstrated and others have experienced). It needs a significant fall/jerk on rope to lock-up because of the strong spring</span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Depending upon rope pairing, it can lock-up unexpectedly while clipping.</span></li></ul><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Discussion</span></h4><div><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Better for steep/overhung routes where there’s no objective fall hazards. Those who want security re the possibility of upside down falls without taking extra measures to protect. It is generally easier system to set up though rope pairing is critical for good feed and lock up</span></div></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><i style="caret-color: rgb(49, 49, 49); color: #313131; word-spacing: 1px;">There’s nuances to everything stated here - it’s not cut and dried or black/white. Test, practice and be safe. And as with most all soloing devices, the device/rope pairing is critical and can have a big impact on performance</i></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-align: left; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">The GG3 used here is an unsprung version that I’ve modded - but that’s a different story (see my <a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2022/08/deactivating-spring-in-grigri-3-for.html">previous blog post</a>). Attaching a cord to the GG upside down and backwards has been done many different ways through the years and range from OK, to klutzy, to dangerous. I’m giving details on how I do it, which works good for me:</span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-align: left; text-size-adjust: auto;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">only requires one hole to be drilled that doesn’t harm the function or integrity of GG </span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">holds the GG at a stable angle that is easily adjustable </span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">is always held by one or more connection points when swapping devices</span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">uses the cord connection to the ‘biner to help keep GG from cross-loading on the ‘biner</span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">GG is still functional for all normal uses</span></li></ul></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql oi732d6d ik7dh3pa ht8s03o8 jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-family: inherit; font-size: medium; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word; word-wrap: break-word;">How to Make the GG HUB Mod (now called the HUBBY system</span> <span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">😊</span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"> </span> - Held Upside-Down and Backwards Bridle Yoke)</h3><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); margin-bottom: 8px; text-size-adjust: auto;"><ol style="text-align: left;"><li style="color: #050505;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span>Drill a small 1/8” hole in cover at location shown </span><span>This does not affect the GG in any way (strength or function). </span></span></li><li style="color: #050505;"><span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Chamfer the edge of the hole on both side so there are no sharp edges to wear on the cord. I used a larger drill bit tip to accomplish this along with a little piece of rolled up 220 emory paper.</span></span></li><li><span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #050505;">Insert one end of a 2.5 mm accessory cord through hole. (</span><span style="color: red;">I have now transitioned to using 1.8mm polyester covered dyneema. It is more abrasion resistant and just as strong or stronger - see photos for GG+ near the end of the post</span><span style="color: #050505;">)</span></span></span></li><li style="color: #050505;"><span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Put an overhand knot in it then burn the end so that there is a melted blob on the end that acts as a stopper. </span></span></li><li style="color: #050505;"><span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">The cover of the GG fits loosely so there’s already clearance for the cord. However I sanded the plastic spacer to introduce a bit more clearance so it didn’t bind or rub on a sharp edge and allows the cover to easily open and close. </span></span></li><li><span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #050505;">On the other end (on ‘biner), I tied a Poacher's knot (half a double fisherman’s knot - see first comment below). This allows it to be loosened to put on the 'biner and then cinched down to help keep the GG centered and prevent cross-loading. The chest harness should also keep the GG upright mitigating cross-loading. (</span><span style="color: red;">I have stopped using this in favor of a overhand loop on a bight. See description at end fo post)</span></span></span></li><li style="color: #050505;"><span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">In the middle of the cord, I tied an overhand on a bight for connection point to the harness to hold it upright. The position of this will determine at what angle the GG hangs at. This will determine how well it feeds. There’s many variables depending upon whether it is an unsprung GG, a GG+ in TR mode or a GG with a normal strong spring. This will be unique for each rope/harness/GG setup and needs experimenting to find the</span></span> angle for best performance.</li></ol></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-size-adjust: auto;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2914" data-original-width="2402" height="818" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRCOi2_E3W6MAFe7VRNPlUHgH_c25Z-xhWVUg8dKRiJPDA9MHV8JsXu1v8IYlQwTvEtO36hIoDqmFOJErsqsOoEVLkyLBuWmeENuVOBiXjW50Bl8K7z8eFU4pCGLRxgyPLV5-a17zbLMXtKG3mFvjI2miFMIxyZ_Fm2k5DJLU-Nn-TucqJpynhJzsH/w675-h818/GG-composite2s.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="675" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See updated info at end of blog post</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRCOi2_E3W6MAFe7VRNPlUHgH_c25Z-xhWVUg8dKRiJPDA9MHV8JsXu1v8IYlQwTvEtO36hIoDqmFOJErsqsOoEVLkyLBuWmeENuVOBiXjW50Bl8K7z8eFU4pCGLRxgyPLV5-a17zbLMXtKG3mFvjI2miFMIxyZ_Fm2k5DJLU-Nn-TucqJpynhJzsH/s2914/GG-composite2s.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: left;"><span style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"></span></span></a></div><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql oi732d6d ik7dh3pa ht8s03o8 jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word; word-wrap: break-word;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-align: left; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql oi732d6d ik7dh3pa ht8s03o8 jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-family: inherit; font-size: medium; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word; word-wrap: break-word;">For the unsprung GG I’ve found that ~30-40 degs from vertical is best for my rope combo for good feed and lockup. For a GG+ I've found 40-50 degs works well. With other GG-rope-harness combo's it takes experimentation to find the best hang/suspend angle of the GG for optimal feed and lock-up.</span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-align: center; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Vsxam7v0qKftjpuaeQg_tmrzaLrS0-EswOejtt5GqiNXJ-jxPWctv34_jaHsc2ImHrQyhQX9AwdWHIHGdN6M3Sx3_R8vV7oOBJhIdvTvIYqh6P4o75z-fCbdfCRjUqlkEUAV6EtjvddbTJTOoTSVxR7_l0SfOkdjF0yuGt56X5NKALwrAHBAyLx5/s4642/GG-composite.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2650" data-original-width="4642" height="365" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Vsxam7v0qKftjpuaeQg_tmrzaLrS0-EswOejtt5GqiNXJ-jxPWctv34_jaHsc2ImHrQyhQX9AwdWHIHGdN6M3Sx3_R8vV7oOBJhIdvTvIYqh6P4o75z-fCbdfCRjUqlkEUAV6EtjvddbTJTOoTSVxR7_l0SfOkdjF0yuGt56X5NKALwrAHBAyLx5/w640-h365/GG-composite.JPG" width="640" /></a></div></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql oi732d6d ik7dh3pa ht8s03o8 jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word; word-wrap: break-word;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium; text-align: center;">The photos above show it paired with my new Maxim 9.5 Pinnacle which is sleek, supple, and pretty bitch’n.</span></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql oi732d6d ik7dh3pa ht8s03o8 jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word; word-wrap: break-word;"><span style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium; text-align: left;">For any setup, if the GG feeds too easily it will contribute to back-feed of the live rope. This can be dangerous and pull out dangerous slack from the cache loop. The ease of feed can somewhat be adjusted by changing the location of the overhand knotted hang loop. Increasing the angle toward vertical will increase friction and closer to horizontal will decrease the friction. There are also other ways to manage back-feed on the live rope strand. I won’t go into them here but one of the best and most user friendly is <a href="https://youtu.be/otQ2d3PAPBQ" target="_blank">Arctic Bastard’s Gromm Hitches</a>. </span></span></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql oi732d6d ik7dh3pa ht8s03o8 jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-family: inherit; font-size: medium; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word; word-wrap: break-word;"><h3 style="text-align: left;"><b data-originalcomputedfontsize="12" data-removefontsize="true">Five ways to handle cache loop/back-up </b><b data-originalcomputedfontsize="12" data-removefontsize="true">for HUB system</b></h3></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; margin-bottom: 8px; text-align: left; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql oi732d6d ik7dh3pa ht8s03o8 jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-family: inherit; font-size: medium; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word; word-wrap: break-word;"><div style="caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; text-align: left;"><span data-originalcomputedfontsize="12" data-removefontsize="true">Having some type of cache loop and back-up are mandatory for good performance and safety. Here’s four possible ways. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages. Choose wisely.</span></div><ol style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(49, 49, 49); color: #313131; text-size-adjust: auto; word-spacing: 1px;"><li data-originalcomputedfontsize="12" data-originalfontsize="12px" style="font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span>Cache loops pre-tied cloves on ‘biners clipped to gear loops ala Brent Barghahn <a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.brentbarghahn.com/climbing-blog/redpoint-rope-soloing-2021&source=gmail&ust=1660059930781000&usg=AOvVaw2pBUy9h_wBB7uQqPdt1H3x" href="https://www.brentbarghahn.com/climbing-blog/redpoint-rope-soloing-2021" style="color: #4285f4;" target="_blank"><span data-originalcomputedfontsize="12" data-removefontsize="true" style="color: #dca10d;">https://www.brentbarghahn.com/<wbr></wbr>climbing-blog/redpoint-rope-<wbr></wbr>soloing-2021</span></a>. Use keyless ‘biners and drop loops as needed. Use with a Metolius Super Safe harness or backup gear loops as shown in Brent’s blog.</span></li><li data-originalcomputedfontsize="12" data-originalfontsize="12px" style="font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span>Cache loop with Microtrax on ‘biner clipped around waist belt. Separate webbing loop with ‘biner near belay loop. Only tie back-up knot on it between MT and GG as needed for cruxes then drop the knot when passed the crux.</span></li><li data-originalcomputedfontsize="12" data-originalfontsize="12px" style="font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span>‘Biner around waist belt with a Klemheist tied around rope to manage cache loop and act as backup. If using this method you have to hold knot with teeth while pulling slack ala El Mudo.</span></li><li data-originalcomputedfontsize="12" data-originalfontsize="12px" style="font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span>Back-up slip knots pre-tied before cache loop. Pull to undo as needed as it nears the Microtrax. Microtrax should be on full strength gear loop or backed up.</span></li><li data-originalcomputedfontsize="12" data-originalfontsize="12px" style="font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span>Backpack method - backup slip-knots pre-tied at intervals then stuffed in a backpack. Cache loop is pulled/feeds from backpack and backup knots untie as they “appear” by grabbing with mouth and pulling with free hand.</span></li><li data-originalcomputedfontsize="12" data-originalfontsize="12px" style="font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span>The </span></li></ol><div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql oi732d6d ik7dh3pa ht8s03o8 jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word; word-wrap: break-word;"><h3><b data-originalcomputedfontsize="17" data-removefontsize="true">Current thoughts and experiments on using an unsprung Grigri using the HUB System</b></h3></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; margin-bottom: 8px; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql oi732d6d ik7dh3pa ht8s03o8 jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word; word-wrap: break-word;"><p data-originalcomputedfontsize="12" data-originalfontsize="12px" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(49, 49, 49); color: #313131; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-size-adjust: auto; word-spacing: 1px;"><span>Current experimentation: Different ‘biners to connect the GG to harness and precautions to prevent cross-loading. How tight or loose the connection should be between chest harness and climbing harness via the GG and HUB cord. Currently, I try to adjust so that the weight is on chest/shoulder harness so it’s hanging as free as possible from the HUB cord. I use a large oval ‘biner to connect to the belay loop. This allows the ‘biner to slide up and down within the belay loop a bit which helps maintain the correct angle while moving around. If the unsprung GG gets into a horizontal position it will lock-up and prevent any upward motion, so beware!</span></p><p></p></span></div></div><div><span style="color: #313131;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(49, 49, 49); word-spacing: 1px;"><b>P.S. If a GG is used with a cache loop, it should be on the climbers left. This is on the side of the GG with the moveable plate and has the rounded lip for lowering. If the cache loop is on the climbers right, it can run across the handle and make it harder to access it for lowering.</b></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #313131;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(49, 49, 49); word-spacing: 1px;">==================================================</span></span></div><div><span style="color: #313131;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(49, 49, 49); word-spacing: 1px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="color: #313131;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuacOvs6DPSAY0lz81xA89SXuQVdsbQNqICj2apAyZNhhB72BUj7xspARbJW9Ox8rEN0Y0g-rxYRqeYekzeWVZaGN6LveMJyVDzX88m0nL3QDAgYKjgGHAA_XVc3WYZHeMvGmtfS_50dQHjBjC7Einb1NCdo3-QwefJooZEiaInEIUc5PL0npa2lwm/s4043/GG+.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3674" data-original-width="4043" height="582" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuacOvs6DPSAY0lz81xA89SXuQVdsbQNqICj2apAyZNhhB72BUj7xspARbJW9Ox8rEN0Y0g-rxYRqeYekzeWVZaGN6LveMJyVDzX88m0nL3QDAgYKjgGHAA_XVc3WYZHeMvGmtfS_50dQHjBjC7Einb1NCdo3-QwefJooZEiaInEIUc5PL0npa2lwm/w640-h582/GG+.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Hub Cord on a GG+</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaISzPl_RXBnexMM5-5uB554kd5kUS3IpzNhsyYGCe6lCjCT6AFnVIWfQ4LsYQfzewWanZ6oJ54Z290vcJ-Gx3Pz8JEC12ex4Eiqi-ljzMwEHQPAbt76wThyFhBXukJ-k9YcGmfrAfl-vhv9V_pzSRhgJcLJXOwjOKAxeEA9XK1dYVeBVtGBrG7u8b/s4080/CordClearance.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3060" data-original-width="4080" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaISzPl_RXBnexMM5-5uB554kd5kUS3IpzNhsyYGCe6lCjCT6AFnVIWfQ4LsYQfzewWanZ6oJ54Z290vcJ-Gx3Pz8JEC12ex4Eiqi-ljzMwEHQPAbt76wThyFhBXukJ-k9YcGmfrAfl-vhv9V_pzSRhgJcLJXOwjOKAxeEA9XK1dYVeBVtGBrG7u8b/w640-h480/CordClearance.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plastic spacer ground/filed/sanded slightly to increase clearance for 2.5mm cord</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div><span style="color: #313131;"><b>Addendum</b></span></div>An alternative way to rig the either the GG3 or GG+ is to eliminate the second arm of the cord is shown below. It is a bit simpler but it will hold the GG at a slight angle sideways which will incrementally increase friction. This setup does not allow you to adjust the angle that the GG hangs at from the chest harness. However for some smaller rope pairings, the feed may be adequate smaller diameter ropes (i.e. <9.4). An advantage of this simplification is that it keeps the HUB cord and harness connection away from the handle.</span></div><div><span style="color: #313131;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg65E4wN4hhkOGA6cmM9SjApFBBCAJBXQcz9LcooIZu6CsjMXmUaQzC-0QHnQ5zhlhJCqQLKWluNms9XmC748aEC4DjjD069lPh5XCsuugGDd2ktk6UenXtUqLraNjAWMQ-GSEDJQMo-WUJk_XrnIRABIrr18Vxarndc1OlEgEUzyuwd_DROB4TweVI/s1200/20221123_091610.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="712" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg65E4wN4hhkOGA6cmM9SjApFBBCAJBXQcz9LcooIZu6CsjMXmUaQzC-0QHnQ5zhlhJCqQLKWluNms9XmC748aEC4DjjD069lPh5XCsuugGDd2ktk6UenXtUqLraNjAWMQ-GSEDJQMo-WUJk_XrnIRABIrr18Vxarndc1OlEgEUzyuwd_DROB4TweVI/w238-h400/20221123_091610.jpg" width="238" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-PcXx8YDVdjiOEGfzqSKb5W1eEEUroMb6otSxBd9SZEVyiQLYn5BzdDn1rHE7IX-3PoOKIVwtdTQHbYfkX4CsC5j_nxuNUrEAJcIUj99wvt4HAa0gfNexqOq13v5axagF35V1wSqIQ4vHa-nHyL7Xu79POMCpjrdwYoD0zOMwr7rG0I2Mso_THbwe/s1200/20221123_152434.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="563" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-PcXx8YDVdjiOEGfzqSKb5W1eEEUroMb6otSxBd9SZEVyiQLYn5BzdDn1rHE7IX-3PoOKIVwtdTQHbYfkX4CsC5j_nxuNUrEAJcIUj99wvt4HAa0gfNexqOq13v5axagF35V1wSqIQ4vHa-nHyL7Xu79POMCpjrdwYoD0zOMwr7rG0I2Mso_THbwe/w188-h400/20221123_152434.jpg" width="188" /></a><br /><br /></div><div><span style="color: #313131;"><b>Addendum #2</b></span></div><div><span style="color: #313131;">I have made several minor changes in the evolution of the HUB cord. First is a change in terminology to distinguish the single leg cord above from the dual leg versions. The single cord I'm calling the HUB Tow cord (shown above), while the second I'm calling the HUB Bridle.</span></div><div><span style="color: #313131;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #313131;">Secondly, I've changed from using 2.5mm accessory cord to a 1.8 polyester/dyneema cord. It fits through the gap between the pivoting cover plate and the body easier than the larger diameter cord.</span></div><div><span style="color: #313131;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil6W0pz97RRFb7ZVu_N-it48htXRMRqfkP33mRz6sLLHO_tGayi4itUzdyI7oFAang0qjfSGNGMhQwxeUmBduX_WjYNYJXb3VaoiDnXj8bSn8aLqG-JmJ3wXTOiDI3tqbswn6LIA-941bMvZnVib75oE9eRqpp8TmvAm4su9-uuHHHSD1p9jHQAnd-/s3220/HUB-Bridle-composite.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="3220" height="332" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil6W0pz97RRFb7ZVu_N-it48htXRMRqfkP33mRz6sLLHO_tGayi4itUzdyI7oFAang0qjfSGNGMhQwxeUmBduX_WjYNYJXb3VaoiDnXj8bSn8aLqG-JmJ3wXTOiDI3tqbswn6LIA-941bMvZnVib75oE9eRqpp8TmvAm4su9-uuHHHSD1p9jHQAnd-/w668-h332/HUB-Bridle-composite.jpeg" width="668" /></a></div></div><div><span style="color: #313131;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #313131;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbHKRRQCIxLG1-LXH9sozuP7Z2C9o6WMuMcRI3O6ySamgnGPPmyGNzhe3ifUeR0-nLXYh3brnWvgShCgKN1j-KqdearpOdok-kJLRn-yzebnxufkPAcSNhanK_cEtC4CrozgI60cspEJy2b6Nlc2aV8-0CfkqBtzaY4V4h6ZHtvsFe7ah4yG8pdC6Z/s1600/20230306_101214-01.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbHKRRQCIxLG1-LXH9sozuP7Z2C9o6WMuMcRI3O6ySamgnGPPmyGNzhe3ifUeR0-nLXYh3brnWvgShCgKN1j-KqdearpOdok-kJLRn-yzebnxufkPAcSNhanK_cEtC4CrozgI60cspEJy2b6Nlc2aV8-0CfkqBtzaY4V4h6ZHtvsFe7ah4yG8pdC6Z/s320/20230306_101214-01.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br />Thirdly I've changed from using a Scaffold knot that can be cinched down on the 'biner to an overhand on a bight which makes it is easier to put on and take off. I've sized the loop to allow the bulk of the knot to clear the body of the GG which allows the tow loop connection to be better centered (see last photo in the composite above).</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="color: #313131;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibFpPT3DNKhJKE6s7EoBxTkG-CUc0Z0xVv6cfog36BiQPy904pOz7MK7dIxn2TBcTdq_WHjzJEJh9HyLaERvyNIbc-mziQfBK7wVt3iqLUbO9RpdkCYlFFRMlz3l8vzunb5DdvO7Avlr0DE8hVyQxBNDBpJMG4o5XPkxCWfzC7xuIH_iT_DlCqXDwn/s1359/20230304_093447-01.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1359" data-original-width="955" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibFpPT3DNKhJKE6s7EoBxTkG-CUc0Z0xVv6cfog36BiQPy904pOz7MK7dIxn2TBcTdq_WHjzJEJh9HyLaERvyNIbc-mziQfBK7wVt3iqLUbO9RpdkCYlFFRMlz3l8vzunb5DdvO7Avlr0DE8hVyQxBNDBpJMG4o5XPkxCWfzC7xuIH_iT_DlCqXDwn/w239-h340/20230304_093447-01.jpeg" width="239" /></a></div><br />Lastly, I failed to show the beveled/chamfered cord hole in the inside cover of the GG. This protects the cord against the sharp edge of the hole. It is done by using a drill bit several sizes larger than the diameter of the hole with a small amount of pressure to remove the sharp edge of the hole and put a light bevel on it.</span></div><div><span style="color: #313131;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #313131;"><br /></span></div><br /><span style="caret-color: rgb(49, 49, 49); word-spacing: 1px;"><b>Note</b>: While some of the photos show an aluminum locking 'biner, I normally used a rated stainless steel quicklink or a auto-locking steel oval or symmetrical pear 'biner.</span></span></div></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql oi732d6d ik7dh3pa ht8s03o8 jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-family: inherit; font-size: medium; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word; word-wrap: break-word;"><p style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; border-color: rgb(117, 117, 117); caret-color: rgb(117, 117, 117); color: #757575; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-size-adjust: auto; word-spacing: 1px;"><b data-originalcomputedfontsize="12" data-removefontsize="true" style="border-color: rgb(117, 117, 117);"><span><br /></span></b></p><br class="Apple-interchange-newline" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); color: black; text-size-adjust: auto;" /></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; caret-color: rgb(5, 5, 5); color: #050505; margin-bottom: 8px; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql oi732d6d ik7dh3pa ht8s03o8 jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v b1v8xokw oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word; word-wrap: break-word;"><br /></span></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-9520761849095310062022-08-12T15:15:00.041-05:002023-03-13T13:07:50.896-05:00Deactivating the Spring in a Grigri 3 for Lead Rope Solo<div class="separator"><span style="font-size: medium;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="568" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/FoMrkkBYxF4" width="683" youtube-src-id="FoMrkkBYxF4"></iframe></span></div><div class="separator"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator"><span>(updated 3/13/23)</span></div><div class="separator"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator"><span style="font-size: medium;">This post will share how I disabled the spring on a GG 3 so that it is functionally similar to a Petzl Grillon (a version of Grigri without a spring that is used as an adjustable lanyard). When using a GG with a deactivated spring for lead rope solo <u>with the proper HUB configuration</u>, it can prevent high-clip failure; contribute to more positive lock-ups in general; feed super-smooth; won’t flip-flop around during lock-up; is more convenient to pull slack, and can shorten the distance of a fall depending upon how it is rigged. Even with the mod, it can still be used for TR belaying; lead belaying (you’ll have to hold cam arm down with your thumb when pulling slack); and as an adjustable lanyard like the Grillon. Back in the day I also used one for route setting in a small gym because it allowed me to go up (had to pull slack) and down and instantly locked-up so I could hang and work.</span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />This post will detail my modification, NOT how it can be used for lead rope solo. For more information on that see my blog post on the <a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2022/08/grigri-3-hub-system-for-lead-rope.html">GG3 HUB</a> (held upside-down and backwards) System for LRS: <br /><br /><b>Read this!</b><br /></span><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-size: medium;">I would encourage you <b>NOT</b> to do this modification. I am only documenting this because people wanted to know how I did it. This should only be done with the proper tools and skills. It’s easy to fuck it up and you’ll likely ruin your GG and/or make it dangerous to use, so don’t try if you aren’t confident and skillful in tool use and making modifications. </span></li><li><span style="font-size: medium;">Modifying the GG is using it <b>WAY</b> beyond the manufacturer’s design parameters and intended use. LRS is dangerous and can kill you if you don’t know what you’re doing. </span></li><li><span style="font-size: medium;">Once this modification is made you will not be able to use it in the inverted position for LRS any longer. It can only be used with the HUB system for LRS. Each system has benefits and drawbacks (see my post on the <a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2022/08/grigri-3-hub-system-for-lead-rope.html">HUB System for LRS</a>.)</span></li><li><span style="font-size: medium;">Alternatives to making this modification that give similar function are: 1) Using a GG+ in the Tope Rope mode (weak spring setting) and get most of the functionality of this modification. The downside is you have to put up with the anti-panic handle which is a PITA IMO and the lock-up is not as immediate.</span></li></ul><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></h4><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgejinmZiDzAgRRGMFJY3tUvTElJbrc-S0OI3gcviFctTTl2JRjZHs007kERBT-0toDIr9zEtMFa3gnZrlReXDkPfoWsL11eyRVQqdA3gMiLBHeQEKe0rgjdVJAElnQSS7ME-sB4_YxM7ORNGhxswlVbfJ75fvDFzT1lksiA2sc0sQA2R81TvJCPq1r/s554/GGSpring.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="554" data-original-width="477" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgejinmZiDzAgRRGMFJY3tUvTElJbrc-S0OI3gcviFctTTl2JRjZHs007kERBT-0toDIr9zEtMFa3gnZrlReXDkPfoWsL11eyRVQqdA3gMiLBHeQEKe0rgjdVJAElnQSS7ME-sB4_YxM7ORNGhxswlVbfJ75fvDFzT1lksiA2sc0sQA2R81TvJCPq1r/s320/GGSpring.jpeg" width="276" /></span></a></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><u>If</u> you could disassemble the GG</b> <span style="color: red;">(<b>you can't without destroying the axle</b>)</span>, this is what you'd see. The photo is for informational purposes only so that you can see the construction of the GG. To deactivate the spring, the GG and axle <u>do not need</u> to be disassembled. This shows the spring inside that provides tension to the cam arm. My goal was to grind off the end of the spring that's sticking up (blurry in photo) so that the spring tension is released. The following steps tell how I did it without destroying the GG or having to remove the axle.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><h4 style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Steps for deactivating the spring on a GG3 (others models are different and these steps do not apply to them)</span></b></h4></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">1. Take out tiny screw from corner of plastic cover. Insert a super thin piece of plastic (cottage cheese or yogurt carton lid) underneath it till it is stopped by the axle (this is to protect the finish on the Grigri). I inserted a large flat blade screw driver between the black plastic cover and credit card toward axle as far as possible. Twist the screw driver blade so that it will eventually pop off the black cover over the lip of axle. It will take a fair bit of force.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJDK2PEJCAroxg6BdjbRBWbCvS80Y0rj9SDhpnnqSu9oVEdjUA9jvWz-EAKobNOoq0xWPd3QnsImA-7j8GH0SMtJ61yIeDD0_rw2MeJxVeA7pqfot64N3f2rjyRV9rUqGiK4nMaHDxQlmDVMtJd0yihEs5O5wY_NEbm8SB0aoXZ-1IHKH1QsRrsPXI/s775/screw%20and%20cover.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="679" data-original-width="775" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJDK2PEJCAroxg6BdjbRBWbCvS80Y0rj9SDhpnnqSu9oVEdjUA9jvWz-EAKobNOoq0xWPd3QnsImA-7j8GH0SMtJ61yIeDD0_rw2MeJxVeA7pqfot64N3f2rjyRV9rUqGiK4nMaHDxQlmDVMtJd0yihEs5O5wY_NEbm8SB0aoXZ-1IHKH1QsRrsPXI/w314-h275/screw%20and%20cover.jpeg" width="314" /></span></a></div></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAbV7x_T2GAJjfeCnLtqb_DDz9svwfEhldUqhn1TfyFcwRrX6kfa_WrG6TSrTu0sf8DnEFFd9ieiF_VXt-r8GRp3IBFzAB4U8SCyhkhCTAJNBsoHb1m0bIouhRQK9r94--nUeF_0mrUm5FWYHz2BlmVPKFPjOhEVCOXJ4ve6iFZA6ougxu2-hWSqlo/s2453/20221205_134348-02-01.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2222" data-original-width="2453" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAbV7x_T2GAJjfeCnLtqb_DDz9svwfEhldUqhn1TfyFcwRrX6kfa_WrG6TSrTu0sf8DnEFFd9ieiF_VXt-r8GRp3IBFzAB4U8SCyhkhCTAJNBsoHb1m0bIouhRQK9r94--nUeF_0mrUm5FWYHz2BlmVPKFPjOhEVCOXJ4ve6iFZA6ougxu2-hWSqlo/w306-h276/20221205_134348-02-01.jpeg" width="306" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj58mPDip5dY2aNXFUK9gLkkaoxcKKumHdB-eWBXomG6Z3USksP4cuASairyiY1QBQInfBf2Gj1wZXV4OzHG_pgsQGj71I2w9QCAOKiharzQfFJVqnF0peSldRFwHpQ1xtM-ldJOnhwzSKRtMqQePVUs8lSdyuMqY3cQUtF3nDB16NPr2LTidp1XYXN/s2554/20221205_134447-01.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2554" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj58mPDip5dY2aNXFUK9gLkkaoxcKKumHdB-eWBXomG6Z3USksP4cuASairyiY1QBQInfBf2Gj1wZXV4OzHG_pgsQGj71I2w9QCAOKiharzQfFJVqnF0peSldRFwHpQ1xtM-ldJOnhwzSKRtMqQePVUs8lSdyuMqY3cQUtF3nDB16NPr2LTidp1XYXN/w299-h240/20221205_134447-01.jpeg" width="299" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2uNfKpl8LZYiA-6PtMfLaCV0mrBW_Ymf_1qN3CRDLUx6zHhLLKo2WALkf9v3-NWRxzVRokD78ezvZbp6QVxBMHgcpPy5HONRjEY3uC6jr8ErNydV7FopZuCzCIeGxw5tarJa51gMOCbREuWIu8yU1tVDU3bo-xaJ4Wqtsn-utX8h3KYKw_0gXcVtq/s3267/20221205_134610-01.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2450" data-original-width="3267" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2uNfKpl8LZYiA-6PtMfLaCV0mrBW_Ymf_1qN3CRDLUx6zHhLLKo2WALkf9v3-NWRxzVRokD78ezvZbp6QVxBMHgcpPy5HONRjEY3uC6jr8ErNydV7FopZuCzCIeGxw5tarJa51gMOCbREuWIu8yU1tVDU3bo-xaJ4Wqtsn-utX8h3KYKw_0gXcVtq/s320/20221205_134610-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">2. Once cover is off, it will expose the end of the spring sticking up through the side plate. Use a cotton swap, toothpick, or wooden match to get out as much grease as possible<br /><br /><a href="#"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6gQamwg7NlE6cuq_fUvIlZCBSG7IMyqbp34zgtNj_5eQnzIRYfJ1IUri0eAl8vz_YJiDYcQbW7q2IHa4Vh4E4O2-7629-98PjXGHfhU3hw6Sp0A2HNh14WS0KBHZjoV7wYQASl_QS6kQUjLP7AlVNw1d_Cgq2t8Azw2VKbkKlM4hcrzk6EtctsTcH/s320/753DF94C-90AA-4517-A742-85CBCCD745B9.jpeg" /></a></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">3. <span style="color: red;"><b>Second warning: this is a very delicate operation and it’s easy to ruin your GG</b></span>. I used an 1/8” carbide ball bit in a Dremel tool. Insert bit through opening and try to gradually grind the end of the spring <u>below</u> the level of the side plate. This is a slow process and takes precision, patience and a steady hand. <b>Make sure to wear eye protection</b> - bits of grindings will be flying everywhere. Also when you’re almost through the spring, the small end piece sticking up will snap off and go flying because it’s under significant pressure.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUeW07ESlrZIJ0wTRraYWI1_b8TV9C1EBW90O_-cTgv6vpKTouIA_eXmHuyjIVCTCRtNIxorDNCjD35ysYgKllvYac0l4_QsBjku84v4QnQ_Tg4HRvxsOnl3MB3aNxvuFX_x4bZOKjIvHEjg0I8lNriEzJuDa4r7XOAh_j-5UFaHvbXuffZ9YTmfsb/s1186/20220705_171933.jpg"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUeW07ESlrZIJ0wTRraYWI1_b8TV9C1EBW90O_-cTgv6vpKTouIA_eXmHuyjIVCTCRtNIxorDNCjD35ysYgKllvYac0l4_QsBjku84v4QnQ_Tg4HRvxsOnl3MB3aNxvuFX_x4bZOKjIvHEjg0I8lNriEzJuDa4r7XOAh_j-5UFaHvbXuffZ9YTmfsb/s320/20220705_171933.jpg" /></a></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">5. Once the end is ground off, the tension of the spring will be released inside of GG. <b>Note: If you don’t grind the end of the spring below the level of the side plate, it may still rub on the underside of the plate and the cam arm will not be as free to move as it should be.</b> So make sure you grind the end of the spring as low as possible (tricky). Use a cotton swab to clean out as much grease and grinding bits as you can. There could be some fine grindings that you can’t get out but they don’t interfere with the action of the GG. The spring remains inside the housing but it doesn’t affect the use of it because it’s not attached to anything. At this point the cam arm should be free to rotate in both directions fairly</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW1Snzm2lzOPXA_tS9XHFIRA75l-wWIfAvEq3kKimMjihtMj0isllc1Pbpue0Odl95I3b9kJcohtNW7MQkb7cc0GTaXDA_ZS4fmWq7z7-c6P0mvV_ZY1JO-lFe0hA42nxd25WX9GPalTZRKO4MrBjvMZkOyLFbfXRj9rm6APDiZMx-yPSOnh13B2B5/s2907/20221206_133424-01.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2907" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW1Snzm2lzOPXA_tS9XHFIRA75l-wWIfAvEq3kKimMjihtMj0isllc1Pbpue0Odl95I3b9kJcohtNW7MQkb7cc0GTaXDA_ZS4fmWq7z7-c6P0mvV_ZY1JO-lFe0hA42nxd25WX9GPalTZRKO4MrBjvMZkOyLFbfXRj9rm6APDiZMx-yPSOnh13B2B5/s320/20221206_133424-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">6. Grind or sand half the thin, narrow lip off of plastic cover as shown in red below so that it’s easy to insert back over the end of axle flange.</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNeuGGKqmH_F57nc9xaBV7obhelaCQFoDA5LwOW1b73CMdx3XcZAhxrZ-e-bpF81h8-LwMicOzux95wKWYfHggzvF5bVpncLjCSF0Gpkikwe8gFGIduYKRZH_DtcA6EXpze2qI8lF5FwGrcJwg9DdBWeRWO7jJ7HqDtPZ2IY6PjK50nJ3oVBjYa35s/s1050/20220701_102930b.jpg"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNeuGGKqmH_F57nc9xaBV7obhelaCQFoDA5LwOW1b73CMdx3XcZAhxrZ-e-bpF81h8-LwMicOzux95wKWYfHggzvF5bVpncLjCSF0Gpkikwe8gFGIduYKRZH_DtcA6EXpze2qI8lF5FwGrcJwg9DdBWeRWO7jJ7HqDtPZ2IY6PjK50nJ3oVBjYa35s/s320/20220701_102930b.jpg" /></a></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />7. After putting the plastic cover on over axle flange, slide into place so hole in cover lines up with the hole in the side plate making sure the remaining lip of the plastic cover slides underneath the axle flange. Put the screw back in and carefully tighten. Be careful not to over-tighten because the screw’s threads are only going into the plastic spacer below the metal side plate. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dy3qSgiVt7wmiPtDZZCWe0kptfygfCHB60KFizlFB6TU6M6lPC-cLjmK665ADrRvPO73N8PxvvTaJugCN1I8w' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">It should look and function like before except is no spring pressure to overcome. The cam arm should be free to swing open and closed with little or no resistance so that, in combo with the HUB cord and ropes of 9.5 or less should feed fairly freely. If there is too much friction you can play with the HUB cord so that it hangs at around a 45 deg angle. Should there still be too much friction there is one last mod that is possible that’s detailed in my <a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2022/11/decreasing-friction-with-gg-hub-setup.html">next blog post</a>.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="267" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Oe8P1151ICQ" width="322" youtube-src-id="Oe8P1151ICQ"></iframe></span></div></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />8. The unsprung GG can still be used for TR belay and bringing up a second as before. However for lead belaying you will need to hold cam arm down with your right thumb while pulling slack for the leader. For how to rig the GG3 for lead rope soloing, see this <a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2022/08/grigri-3-hub-system-for-lead-rope.html">blog post</a>.</span></div><div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-35779454937043582492022-06-22T12:42:00.009-05:002022-06-22T14:01:41.593-05:00Self-Belay System for Home Climbing Wall<p><span style="font-size: medium;">Most home walls are low enough that they can be use for bouldering with or without pads. My son is finishing up his house in the Bitterroot Valley and has dedicated a whole room for training during the cold months and when he can't make it out to the nearby crags and walls. His bouldering room is 20' x 30' with a 40 deg Moon Board at the "low" end of the room and an almost 20' tall 20 deg. wall at the tall end. </span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span>For now he just has home made 2x4 holds so he can test the wall and the setup discussed below.</span><span> </span><span>The two end walls are connected by a 30' long vertical traverse wall. I'm jealous! 😊</span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgju6lQ8mdIWehYGgUKr3exFfMxJTNVpQGwW9kwtupk_pgQTBDH01w_FO-gl3js2L5w__sBS3dZuiCroUmJ-dP83WsXlf50Frw0VlkJeLtm8ftUbxs_8du-SPN0pQowzgcnUlH_M5m-55zqyppgepiJ7XlS98bwomahi7fgCT7d7JoI6Rf0osGwx6aR/s3266/IMG_20180825_112612-01.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2281" data-original-width="3266" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgju6lQ8mdIWehYGgUKr3exFfMxJTNVpQGwW9kwtupk_pgQTBDH01w_FO-gl3js2L5w__sBS3dZuiCroUmJ-dP83WsXlf50Frw0VlkJeLtm8ftUbxs_8du-SPN0pQowzgcnUlH_M5m-55zqyppgepiJ7XlS98bwomahi7fgCT7d7JoI6Rf0osGwx6aR/w320-h222/IMG_20180825_112612-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYj7dciayPhDfFEAfXiwIllHySjnoM7Ng5KahVBzDWI8EKqW-9cyHuBMgVZFXuV3iqMsDX72Zx6tLxCZ-Hgzn6no7ePmbSlmEQboQ3x2uaqMZgY2mdI6XCGZMG316X3x6wGu8lP_rDc87vIT_RnY5OTIP7HKsMLHtwfBVA0DBmL_wKZ2FXgsBc7Dr7/s4032/IMG_20190822_104043.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYj7dciayPhDfFEAfXiwIllHySjnoM7Ng5KahVBzDWI8EKqW-9cyHuBMgVZFXuV3iqMsDX72Zx6tLxCZ-Hgzn6no7ePmbSlmEQboQ3x2uaqMZgY2mdI6XCGZMG316X3x6wGu8lP_rDc87vIT_RnY5OTIP7HKsMLHtwfBVA0DBmL_wKZ2FXgsBc7Dr7/w320-h240/IMG_20190822_104043.jpg" width="320" /></a><br /><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqGuxWLUT7NfEtGH7FuFTP_MbdIwnKWq7sqFjFVUH9OUzRoyM0cCwTz20XJdtPnnHJyR0aKpJcyLG-kicwajLSsum9-ojuU8hWGGshSlnJxUGocAEbm2QZCwJG-TlDu-LjM6X8zSngz1JLp55b-tZyN5paJGp4YHPQETT9gs2CycPOex5NOlgE1-_g/s4080/20220614_095420.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1836" data-original-width="4080" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqGuxWLUT7NfEtGH7FuFTP_MbdIwnKWq7sqFjFVUH9OUzRoyM0cCwTz20XJdtPnnHJyR0aKpJcyLG-kicwajLSsum9-ojuU8hWGGshSlnJxUGocAEbm2QZCwJG-TlDu-LjM6X8zSngz1JLp55b-tZyN5paJGp4YHPQETT9gs2CycPOex5NOlgE1-_g/w400-h180/20220614_095420.jpg" width="400" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyHXi9pWM-B68VHVmjRUNgRLAbfKJSk9fXiS6ZI1UQjHF8qKVRstCYSNNx8y6BhdR0jItb850kBXn5w6IUAsDtZSenzrfQQUQuY75GAO2W3P-OaU99HrC31ERg5J1IZxZK-GCriNcKEy8lgvl0guAnlWWnSapBnSwkh0B8VL_IZfAJAtO0W0rzUSyn/s4080/20220614_095146.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4080" data-original-width="1836" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyHXi9pWM-B68VHVmjRUNgRLAbfKJSk9fXiS6ZI1UQjHF8qKVRstCYSNNx8y6BhdR0jItb850kBXn5w6IUAsDtZSenzrfQQUQuY75GAO2W3P-OaU99HrC31ERg5J1IZxZK-GCriNcKEy8lgvl0guAnlWWnSapBnSwkh0B8VL_IZfAJAtO0W0rzUSyn/w90-h200/20220614_095146.jpg" width="90" /></a><br /></span></div><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">The tall wall is high enough that you really don't want to fall off so is really a TR wall. However that requires a belayer and with a small child, it means that he or his wife often has to babysit so only one can climb at a time. Sooo...what to do? With a bit of adaptation, we figured out a good system for self-belaying by adapting a top rope solo system I've been using off and on for several years (<a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2020/08/vergo-for-top-rope-soloing.html">https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2020/08/vergo-for-top-rope-soloing.html</a>). It allows the climber to fall/hang at any point, then continue climbing or lower down. Who needs a $2.5K+ TruBlue iQ system! (They are great systems though.) This accomplishes the same thing at a fraction of the price.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">The main challenge we faced when adapting the system from outdoor climbing to indoor is the angle of the wall. Top rope soloing is a wonderful way to gain endurance by doing laps or for working on cruxes for a project. However it does have its limitations. TRSing feeds best when vertical. When it gets too overhung, or wanders/traverses too much, then it becomes less than ideal. Re-belays are the solution when climbing outdoors to help the rope run free and to protect it against edges.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0_g5D6vBRd4NKvO5m4CsauzQaAJQpmiAQmxfK_c0iA-wYVFZRggYhUdD6ggjmIbc77EZbzGr0qAU64FJkd5qF5Hlqw6FUwqS2GapL5MUGIrF1w6j870uS9cXi6NtXGjVZzP3oakF2xyFyZwzllSVoNRsqKWl4VWRpAr4FAm8npjblZxSP-pN2z0mv/s4080/20220616_090702.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4080" data-original-width="1836" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0_g5D6vBRd4NKvO5m4CsauzQaAJQpmiAQmxfK_c0iA-wYVFZRggYhUdD6ggjmIbc77EZbzGr0qAU64FJkd5qF5Hlqw6FUwqS2GapL5MUGIrF1w6j870uS9cXi6NtXGjVZzP3oakF2xyFyZwzllSVoNRsqKWl4VWRpAr4FAm8npjblZxSP-pN2z0mv/s320/20220616_090702.jpg" width="144" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1HZOcyOjdrPdqSE_i-CnGN40p8mI1KDWlqEwZ5ZoR2bUPT6be_BiXk2qk0xxL4ivpsOrvfPViBRuhjwqC1z6n5v05vD1GZ7mLGvh3GnOHR1yw6zN4vL6-AKXJiyD-1jtZbiKsbasa6t8QKQ7Vhv891DZeGQIBbYtyCBNhTR0IOP6SjIJTdrgCGYKG/s4080/20220614_100251.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4080" data-original-width="1836" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1HZOcyOjdrPdqSE_i-CnGN40p8mI1KDWlqEwZ5ZoR2bUPT6be_BiXk2qk0xxL4ivpsOrvfPViBRuhjwqC1z6n5v05vD1GZ7mLGvh3GnOHR1yw6zN4vL6-AKXJiyD-1jtZbiKsbasa6t8QKQ7Vhv891DZeGQIBbYtyCBNhTR0IOP6SjIJTdrgCGYKG/s320/20220614_100251.jpg" width="144" /></a> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/hBHfFDQfi28" width="320" youtube-src-id="hBHfFDQfi28"></iframe></div><br /></div><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">My son's indoor wall is 20 degrees overhung which causes the rope to seek a plumb line to the ground because of gravity. This has two negative effects. It means the rope tends to hang up on your body which creates friction and doesn't allow it to feed freely. Secondly, it creates a downward and outward pull on you because of the weight at the bottom of the rope. This is annoying and a PITA to say the least and can feel like someone is trying to pull you off the wall.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">So we've adapted the re-belay idea from outdoors to the indoor wall by placing an eye bolt near the bottom of the route and running the rope through it. This keeps it close to the wall, away from your body and allows the Vergo to flow easily up the rope.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">The keys to optimizing the system for him in this contect are:</span></p><p></p><ol style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-size: medium;">tow loop on the Vergo and chest sling to hold it vertically (very difficult feed otherwise)</span></li><li><span style="font-size: medium;">a ~9.5mm very flexible and pliable rope</span></li><li><span style="font-size: medium;">eyebolt to hold rope close to the angle of the wall</span></li><li><span style="font-size: medium;">adding the minimal amount of weight on the bottom of the rope so Vergo feeds well but does not impede climbing</span></li></ol><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Things to improve in the future:</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Replace eyebolt with a pulley at the bottom to increase the smoothness and efficiency of the weight on the rope and pulling and slackening of the rope as one climbs and assumes various body position in relation to line of the route. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Because this method uses a fixed top anchor, it doesn't allow you to wander too far from the route line. Therefore we're thinking of attaching the rope to a pulley at the top which would run on a horizontal static line across the wall. This would allow it to track/follow the climber's horizontal movement if the they "wander" around the wall. This would be paired with a horizontal line (non-weight bearing) at the bottom of the wall at the same height of the eyebolt which would include two pulleys connected by a swivel. One pulley for the climbing rope to to pass through to replace the eye bolt. And the other so it can easily slide horizontally to hold rope close to the wall but follow climber's horizontal movement like the top anchor rope set up. (Difficult to describe in words without taking the time to draw it out).</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">The main challenge in this scheme is that the top horizontal static anchor rope would be stretched between two points (like a slack line) and any "fall"/weighting of the climbing rope/pulley would multiply the weight of the "fall" by an X factor due to the physics of the shallow angle created by climber's weight sagging on the horizontal rope (like a slack liner fall). </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">The proof of the pudding however, will be in the final product. I'll add a future post when/if we perfect that. However as it stands it's a good and reliable setup for a single route that doesn't wander.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">__________________________</span></div><div><br /></div><div><b>NOTE</b>: The photos/video above show a Climbtech RollnLock at the back-up. I've also used a Microtraxion which works similarly, thought if the two devices contact each other, because of the MT's teeth, it is hard to release and descend without first unweighting it. Some say that the Rollnlock will not lock up if it contacts the primary device above it. That's not been my experience.<br /><br /><b><span style="color: red;">This article shows non-standard and non-approved use of these devices. Be warned and use at your own risk. Climbing is dangerous!</span></b></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><p></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-58829088170294243062022-05-23T21:06:00.000-05:002022-05-23T21:06:57.886-05:00 Best Feeding Top Rope Solo Setup<p><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8;"> <span style="color: #222222; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 31.43px; font-weight: bold;">Best Feeding Top Rope Solo Setup</span></span></p><p style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleEmphasizedBody; font-size: 19.08px; font-weight: bold;">Grandwall uAscend primary + MicroTrax backup</span></p><p style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleEmphasizedBody; font-size: 19.08px; font-weight: bold;"><br /></span></p><p style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKn3u4XqrRL0Bk8j-CtNgjgXBmJWlJHizbcNkalYrQBk1kL_8lJVqVKshD3bXY0CjPoIoA0y2fXzHCaCn3aI3jSKLujyLFVfb73KnSuP8yJpCOhSQwv7bcaFwdf3dfle3PK7VGtc3ierZW8Lt4_UUfT6DJYzYqBFpZLU3V5uJPkqOGHeX2V6pIlXAs/s1600/20220522_091940-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKn3u4XqrRL0Bk8j-CtNgjgXBmJWlJHizbcNkalYrQBk1kL_8lJVqVKshD3bXY0CjPoIoA0y2fXzHCaCn3aI3jSKLujyLFVfb73KnSuP8yJpCOhSQwv7bcaFwdf3dfle3PK7VGtc3ierZW8Lt4_UUfT6DJYzYqBFpZLU3V5uJPkqOGHeX2V6pIlXAs/w300-h400/20220522_091940-01.jpeg" width="300" /></a></span></div><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">Yann Camus has recommended the Grandwall uAscend for a primary TRS device. </span><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">I’d never tried one till recently. </span><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">After using it for a while I feel that it is probably the best feeding device for TRS on the market...and I've tried most of them. If one is only concerned about the ultimate hands-free and safe TRS experience, the above setup is probably the best performing, safest, lightest weight, least critical re rope type/size, and cheapest setup at this point in time.<br /><br />Many people getting into TRSing ponder what is the safest and best setup. It seems to be the perennial question. There's tons of advice on the internet but a lot of it leaves much to be desired and some of it is downright dangerous. For anyone getting started in TRS, you can't go wrong with this basic setup.<br /></span><p></p><p style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24.7px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8;"><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;"></span><br /></span></p><p style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">The downside is, a rappel device has to be added or swapped in/out when rappelling. If you have a hands free top out, this isn’t an issue. Or, if you leave a sling through the master point of the anchor that you can easy clip into while swapping devices. </span></p><p style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24.7px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8;"><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;"></span><br /></span></p><p style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8;"><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">However, if you want to descend mid-route or have a hanging top out, it leaves much to be desired. In the next blog post I'll share an easy way to rappel using this setup just by adding a Grigri, </span><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleEmphasizedBody; font-size: 19.08px; font-weight: bold;">without removing either the primary or backup TRS devices.</span><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;"> </span></span></p><p style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24.7px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8;"><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;"></span><br /></span></p><p style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">Currently, the best setup for quickly descending, doing laps, lowering to work a crux, is still either the Taz Lov2/3 or the Trango Vergo that I’ve previously written about in my blog. Both devices allow descending at any point simply by hanging, locking out the back-up device, and pulling the handle on the primary device to descend. For ease of use and safety, the Taz Lov and Vergo are currently the best IMO. </span></p><p style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24.7px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8;"><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;"></span><br /></span></p><p style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">The compromise is, they don’t feed quite as well as the setup discussed here - you give up a slight bit in ease of feeding for convenience. Other compromises are: Taz Lov - the size, weight, and expense. The Vergo - feeds just slightly less than the Taz, though still much better than most other belaying/rapelling devices. Everything in TRS is a compromise. Set your goals, route, and parameters and decide which method and device is best for you.</span></p><p style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24.7px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8;"><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;"></span><br /></span></p><p style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">The Ultimate TRS Feed Setup described above not only fulfills the goal of having the best feed but also the primary and back-up are two different types of devices. While having two of the same devices certainly works well (i.e. two MicroTraxs), best practice is to have a primary non-toothed cam/lever type device on top paired with a toothed device as a fail-safe back-up if the primary should fail for some reason.</span></p><p style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24.7px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8;"><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;"></span><br /></span></p><p style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleEmphasizedBody; font-size: 19.08px; font-weight: bold;">Ultimate TRS feed set-up details:</span></p><ul style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; list-style-type: circle;"><li style="font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">Primary = Improvised chest sling harness (or breakable neck cord) + uAscend with added tow loop to hold vertically</span></li><li style="font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">Backup = MicroTrax on same strand of rope hanging down from belay loop (no need for dogbone on either)</span></li><li style="font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">Weight of an approach shoe cloved to the free end of the rope to facilitate feeding of devices. This allows you to quickly adjust as rope stretches and easily adjust the weight by putting in a rock or two.</span></li></ul><p style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24.7px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8;"><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;"></span><br /></span></p><p style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;"><b>Note:</b> The MicroTrax, while an excellent device, also has its weaknesses: both locking on the rope when not wanted; and locking open when not wanted. I’ve experienced these multiple times. I’ve written about these failures and how to get around them (check check earlier blog post). The simplest solution without modifying the MT is to use a smaller diameter rope (< 9.6) that is not worn and fuzzy.</span></p><p style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24.7px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8;"><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;"></span><br /></span></p><p style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8;"><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleEmphasizedBody; font-size: 19.08px; font-weight: bold;">Descending</span><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">:</span></span></p><ul style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; list-style-type: circle;"><li style="font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">Put the GG on the other strand of rope (or above the uAscend on the same rope)</span></li><li style="font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">Take the uAscend off the rope and let it hang free on the chest sling. </span></li><li style="font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">Weight the GG</span></li><li style="font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">Lock open the MicroTrax</span></li><li style="font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">Descend on the GG.</span></li></ul><p style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24.7px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8;"><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;"></span><br /></span></p><p style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleEmphasizedBody; font-size: 19.08px; font-weight: bold;">NOTES</span></p><ol style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><li style="font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">I’ve found the improvised Suspend harness to be simple, easy, cheap and comfortable (or you can make a DIY Petzl Torse which is adjustable on the fly). If you are concerned about the harness configuration and the possibility of it exerting pressure on your neck in the event of a fall, instead of using a 1.5mm tow loop on the uAscend, you can make the tow loop out of 10 lb. test monofilament fish line so it will break at a known force. </span></li><li style="font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgblLQgOQTBn8yXdc7ZjVIKANvAmYPPqmbEkqrFY4fTWruHdj6Anl5f3iJE7PgzhHSZ7Bj4qa1L8nMIpbd-AtYTMl1zjDv1Bz_YXd5kAWvCK5z9gD6wl2CN4XoUYsSGYGDzY-FjScuWWI2Ikz6dtW_qupgXzeVH9vrbbne9xBhoyEXE8FEvgbehRGxO/s1024/uAscendComposite.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="680" data-original-width="1024" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgblLQgOQTBn8yXdc7ZjVIKANvAmYPPqmbEkqrFY4fTWruHdj6Anl5f3iJE7PgzhHSZ7Bj4qa1L8nMIpbd-AtYTMl1zjDv1Bz_YXd5kAWvCK5z9gD6wl2CN4XoUYsSGYGDzY-FjScuWWI2Ikz6dtW_qupgXzeVH9vrbbne9xBhoyEXE8FEvgbehRGxO/s320/uAscendComposite.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />The tow loop on the uAscend should only be attached to the orange non-moving plate (see photo). This allows you to put it on/off the rope on without having to take the device off the chest harness/neck loop. It also prevents you from dropping the device with putting on/off the rope and doesn't interfere with it's pivoting.</span></li><li style="font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">To avoid the issues that I’ve experienced with the MT, I’ve ground off the lock-open nubin and use a thumb loop to manually hold it open while descending. See my blog for details.</span></li><li style="font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">The Camp Lift is very similar to the GrandWall uAscend. However with one important difference. The cam lever spring is stiffer which causes more friction and thus doesn’t feed as well as the uAscend.</span></li><li style="font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8;"><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">The RollnLock can be substituted for the MicroTrax for a backup and is even cheaper and runs a bit smoother. </span><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleEmphasizedBody; font-size: 19.08px; font-weight: bold;">HOWEVER</span><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">, some have claimed issues with it locking up if it twists or if it collides with the primary device. I used it for multiple years and never had an issue using as a backup. Use at your own risk.</span></span></li><li style="font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">With this setup, there is no reason to extend the top or bottom device. Some people get paranoid about the devices colliding. I’ve never had that happen and if it does, the MT will still engage because of the teeth.</span></li><li style="font-size: 19.1px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 19.08px;">I use 9.5 ropes with all my devices. With this setup you can go up or down a bit in rope diameter. 10mm is plenty big and I’d not recommend going larger than that though I have used up to 10.2</span></li></ol>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-7251791792053221632022-02-06T14:17:00.001-05:002022-05-23T16:44:39.045-05:00Suspend Chest Harness for Top Rope Soloing<div class="separator"><br /></div><p> <b style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 17px;">Suspend Chest Harness</b></p><p class="p3" style="font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Want to improvise or make a simple chest harness similar to the Petal Torse? I’ve been using the Petal Torse for a couple years to suspend the upper device when Top Rope Soloing to separate from the lower device and also improve the feed of the rope. I interchangeably use a MiniTrax, Trango Vergo, or Taz Lov2 as my primary device and it’s worked great with all of them. The reason that I prefer the Torse is any weight or pressure is only felt on the tops of the shoulders similar to carrying a pack and it's adjustable on the fly.<br /><br /><b> Improvised sling custom made Petzl Torse</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg76yeMpmsdaxyum7WziCu9_lnHuIDArC-gbmrXB8vurjn6iWtJljCNys8C5MgFQr9SMhozef3Xkx715JldFz7dSXCexn7f3x0XQVGU25L9L9ph5b4VUnI_LvlQ8szoh1StDKC1vVK02-hgVRkvdotxq4qmhx9fw5P_s7-l2Sq8az9aGVGs0Y57nYNM=s4335" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4335" data-original-width="2961" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg76yeMpmsdaxyum7WziCu9_lnHuIDArC-gbmrXB8vurjn6iWtJljCNys8C5MgFQr9SMhozef3Xkx715JldFz7dSXCexn7f3x0XQVGU25L9L9ph5b4VUnI_LvlQ8szoh1StDKC1vVK02-hgVRkvdotxq4qmhx9fw5P_s7-l2Sq8az9aGVGs0Y57nYNM=w437-h640" width="437" /></a></div><br />Some people use a cord around their neck or a full blown chest harness to accomplish the same thing. For me both of those have drawbacks. The cord/sling around the neck has the possibility of strangulation (though very remote) and depending upon which device it’s used with, it can be uncomfortable putting pressure on my neck. The full chest harness for me is constricting and a bit overkill just to hold up/suspend a TRS device. It doesn’t need to take the weight of a “fall”. I've seen other people use two-2’ slings over the neck/shoulders and cross them, while others use a 4’ sling in a crossed (figure-8) in the back and wrapped around to the front. I've also seen 4' slings tied off bandolier style. I found all these to be more constricting and less comfortable than the Torse. <br /><br />While the Torse is an excellent lightweight chest harness and quite reasonably priced, something similar can be improvised with a 4’ dyneema sling or easily custom made for a few dollars for webbing and a couple plastic connectors. The Torse is also overkill IMO for a light weight devices like the MicroTrax or Vergo. For the Lov2 a custom made harness or the Torse is probably better.<br /><br /><h2 style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Improvised Suspend Harness</span></h2><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhzMvaAGypinHW5ppW4I7_E3h05lCtYWwU7afhA00UviiAJdGCWhllv_Bzhgp3O3JAvO1kfabkDoLYYw1MEfDzsYBUcGRnbEN5nxHTJy0sYkwVjX_gUsoVBmn0diZC5eIQkbdjCJaOMTIDFgqX44DndVWMyisqWOzGYIenWn006in9hOJItztqfyHHc=s1600" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhzMvaAGypinHW5ppW4I7_E3h05lCtYWwU7afhA00UviiAJdGCWhllv_Bzhgp3O3JAvO1kfabkDoLYYw1MEfDzsYBUcGRnbEN5nxHTJy0sYkwVjX_gUsoVBmn0diZC5eIQkbdjCJaOMTIDFgqX44DndVWMyisqWOzGYIenWn006in9hOJItztqfyHHc=w150-h200" width="150" /></a></div>A 4’ sling can easily be configured similar to the Torse. Maybe others are doing this but so far I haven’t seen anyone. All it takes is the sling and an optional rubber band and clip. The sling is first secured to the back of the harness with a girth hitch. Optionally you could use a small clip or ‘biner on the end if you want to make it easily removable like the Torse. Usually when I go out TRSing I don’t need to put it on and off the harness multiple times so I just girth hitch it from the start. The rubber band/O-ring is optional instead of the overhand knot to hold the two strands together in the middle of your back similar to the Torse. This keeps it more secure on the shoulders. It can easily be adjusted by moving it up or down. I use the fat little rubber bands that come with a bundle of broccoli or a tiny O-ring. Once secured to the back of your harness, the sling is then place over your head resting on your shoulders so that a loop hangs down in front. I use a small stainless figure-8 clip to join the sling to a small loop of cord on the device. <div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Using a sling set up you can either vary the size of the cord loop attached to the device; vary the size of the ‘biner/clip or by using different ways to connect the sling to the clip/‘biner. Since the sling is a fixed length there are several ways to shorten the harness. The drawback is that it is not able to be adjusted on the fly like the custom version below. The amount of shortening will vary depending upon the width/thickness of your sling and the type of connection you used (‘biner or clip) but the following will give you an idea how much shorter you can make it using a setup like mine:<br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhMiNvm34Qh9tcUOHUGkzFt2OhQx98pNu6J3BuOAvH23i-pf6yuacQspojK0NBr-FEFa7lJ8Ls7nuruQfeNOI5hkywyfZ-nhZUsHqqAOyhADeODqLu3dojysSTmmJ4-03iZsqZS7V9evO0Mvkj6mIDO88C_Gu4QLcCCZQcPl0uZLA-pPNp5d3nxiUmU=s3594" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="3594" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhMiNvm34Qh9tcUOHUGkzFt2OhQx98pNu6J3BuOAvH23i-pf6yuacQspojK0NBr-FEFa7lJ8Ls7nuruQfeNOI5hkywyfZ-nhZUsHqqAOyhADeODqLu3dojysSTmmJ4-03iZsqZS7V9evO0Mvkj6mIDO88C_Gu4QLcCCZQcPl0uZLA-pPNp5d3nxiUmU=w640-h178" width="640" /></a></div><div><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Extra loop: 1” Girth hitch: 1.5” Girth hitch with Overhand knot: 3” Figure-8: 4-1/2" Figure-9: 6”<br /> extra twists: 2”</span><br /> <br /><h2 style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Custom Suspend Harness:</span></h2><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhHI74-XeyLU-nwqLdToU8eqW5DTEBhEwDdCxQA0USQuc60OTmOrpPWoj0jw343D6szpiSZcupHoTRWgFGqsvKQItztpMTSLmaAowho4_ZnbEVP0pJHDStA7pakyfXSZG_WMmAcbPmwCOBgV-RuJ8S8J8yB6Q-gLBOfF9UXpbC12u_owEEBI6WN-9ln=s1227" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1001" data-original-width="1227" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhHI74-XeyLU-nwqLdToU8eqW5DTEBhEwDdCxQA0USQuc60OTmOrpPWoj0jw343D6szpiSZcupHoTRWgFGqsvKQItztpMTSLmaAowho4_ZnbEVP0pJHDStA7pakyfXSZG_WMmAcbPmwCOBgV-RuJ8S8J8yB6Q-gLBOfF9UXpbC12u_owEEBI6WN-9ln=s320" width="320" /></a></div>The advantage of making a custom version is that it can be adjusted on the fly and you can make it any width from 1/2”, 5/8”, 3/4” or 1”. Personally I'd recommend 1/2" or 5/8". Even't though I've chosen 5/8” for the one shown, I think 1/2" webbing with 5/8" connectors would work better for ease of adjusting. </div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgZkIWYotFeWoHohGFpiAGLpTFqzJKcJnN5GKlb7X5aHBUrUuwci4sOBdhIiuejJpEutwCwX9ms3Ft0F7fVQqYI7AN5GJldPSFyM5ObQrDDCIJULycmAGJlwbO21Z4byHqwrFByJEwjmlyugRHrHfgcMOKsCyUXeuk94GdGAMw4VvkzHU72_D422ptm=s901" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="390" data-original-width="901" height="139" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgZkIWYotFeWoHohGFpiAGLpTFqzJKcJnN5GKlb7X5aHBUrUuwci4sOBdhIiuejJpEutwCwX9ms3Ft0F7fVQqYI7AN5GJldPSFyM5ObQrDDCIJULycmAGJlwbO21Z4byHqwrFByJEwjmlyugRHrHfgcMOKsCyUXeuk94GdGAMw4VvkzHU72_D422ptm=s320" width="320" /></a></div>7' of webbing is needed plus a slider ladder-lock plastic adjuster and a wide tri-slider. These are fairly common and you can do a search of the web to find them. Unfortunately many places only offer them in quantity. Using this type of slider-adjuster, both ends of the webbing are secure, however I've chosen to glue the short non-adjustable end down with a bit of shoe goo. Stitching with thread would probably also work.</div><div> <br /><br /><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Note:</b> This version of the harness is not made to sustain a fall. The plastic parts will fail in the event of a fall. However that is not its purpose. Its sole purpose is to suspend your upper/primary device and does not need to be fall rated - it only needs to hold the weight of the device and rope hanging below it.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Note 2:</b> I've seen someone else do an elastic cord version of this which could work for small/light device. I personally tend not to like the tension it creates. YMMV<br /><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-71435771101675192192021-11-02T11:52:00.015-05:002021-11-15T13:37:51.582-05:00RipCord: MicroTrax Thumb Loop Cam ReleaseThe following step-by-step instructions are how to modify a Microtrax (MT) or NanoTrax (NT) with an easy release thumb loop when using as a back-up device to a Taz Lov or Trango Vergo primary device. This allows quick and easy descent after topping out or hanging on the rope; easily descend from a hanging top-out; quickly descend when doing laps for endurance; or to work a section/crux of a route. It allows you to open the MT/NT while holding the rope with the lower hand to help control the descent, while the other hand controls the lever on the primary device.<br /><br /><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X1zn4vYzLCU/YYFpNotNuQI/AAAAAAAACU4/aj9YcPodnj0XkbRcixVwF-oUJOmAMAZwgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1556/2-Lov2-MTComposite.jpeg"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X1zn4vYzLCU/YYFpNotNuQI/AAAAAAAACU4/aj9YcPodnj0XkbRcixVwF-oUJOmAMAZwgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/2-Lov2-MTComposite.jpeg" /></a><br /><br /><br /><span style="color: red;">Since publishing on the FB TRS group, there have been three complaints made by arm-chair climbers and gearoom “test-pilots” who’ve never tried the RIPcord Release. I’ll address each of these here before getting into the mods. I want to be clear - none of these have been observed during my year and a half of use.<br /></span><ol style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="color: red;">“Cord will get entangled in toothed cam and prevent it from locking up.” This is pretty much impossible to happen since it is not a dangling single cord that can get flipped up into the cam. It is a short loop that’s on the back side of the cam away from the teeth.</span></li><li><span style="color: red;">“Cord loop will get caught on something to prevent it from locking up.” Unless you’re climbing in a brushy/bushy area, there is nothing for it to get caught on. The loop is on the backside of the MT/NT facing the body between your legs and it is vertically oriented, not horizontal like a lasso.</span></li><li><span style="color: red;">“Cam teeth will rub on rope while rapping causing it to snag and rip sheath fibers causing extra wear.” Take a look at the photos in my blogpost. There is plenty of clearance between the pulled open cam and the rope when rapping. If you use an older fatter rope, then it might be possible. I’ve used this mod with ropes that are 9.4-9.6. If it does snag the rope, then it’s going to lock up just like in a TRS “fall”. Once the teeth initiate the lock up, it’s the cam action that pinches the rope and stops movement, not the teeth.</span></li><li><span style="color: red;">I've only done this mod on a Microtrax. I suspect that if done on a Nanotrax it would be best used on smaller diameter ropes (8.9 -9.4) because of the narrower clearances between the pulley and cam. If you try this on a Nano, please share your results.</span></li></ol><span style="color: red;">If your “inner climber” is paranoid, by all means don’t use this mode. However, if it looks like something that might be useful to you, then give it a try and make your own observations. This mod is is for MT/NT backup use and is fairly easy and safe to test the loop before grinding off the lock-out tab. YMMV</span>.<br /><br />Now with that out of the way, on with the story. In the past I used an unmodified MT for a couple years and found that with certain ropes it would both inadvertently get locked open while climbing (dangerous) and, while in the open position get unlocked and bit down on the rope while descending (totally annoying). This could be part of the reason why Petzl eliminated the lock-out feature in the new Nano Trax. (Also, Petzl has put out a statement re the Mini Trax in relation to using it for TR Solo, though I've not found a similar statement re the Micro Trax, which they probably should have).<span style="font-size: large;">*</span><div><br /></div><div>The following is the solution I’ve come up with that has worked well for the last year+. If you choose to do this mod, make sure you know what you’re doing, both climbing wise and modification-wise. This is not something recommended by the manufacturer and is outside their design parameters. Do so at your own risk.<br /><br />1) Grind off lock out nub (Microtrax only). I used a Dremel tool with an 1/8” carbide ball bit. If you have a NanoT, you’re fortunate because, while there's still a nub there, there is no receptacle for it to fit in to hold it open. Therefore it's just an unnecessary appendage that can be ignored.</div><div><br /><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ycbAAgEfRZ4/YYFi4-mjI1I/AAAAAAAACTQ/LwP5_-QzrYQuQRi1nv6gK2gqMvxCNNODACLcBGAsYHQ/s1008/PXL_20211102_135211435-01.jpeg"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ycbAAgEfRZ4/YYFi4-mjI1I/AAAAAAAACTQ/LwP5_-QzrYQuQRi1nv6gK2gqMvxCNNODACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/PXL_20211102_135211435-01.jpeg" /></a><br /><br />2) Use a piece of 1.5 mm accessory cord that’s about ~12” long. It’s easier and better to have more cord to work with than too short. Insert cord through keeper hole in the plastic housing and then out the side. Tie an overhand knot, cut and burn end so it is close to the knot. Insert knot into the recess in the body. If you have a NT, there is a metal post and recess in the plastic body instead. Tie a scaffold knot around the post, trim and burn the end of the cord.<br /><br /><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B4G94ShKJ2g/YYFjHP5FuBI/AAAAAAAACTU/YMZqsSr4uTU70LLdn6EL0FCcxt27Wu8AACLcBGAsYHQ/s1443/PXL_20211102_134817701-01.jpeg"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B4G94ShKJ2g/YYFjHP5FuBI/AAAAAAAACTU/YMZqsSr4uTU70LLdn6EL0FCcxt27Wu8AACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/PXL_20211102_134817701-01.jpeg" /></a><br /><br />3) Insert Sharpie (or something of similar size) to hold the cam open while working on it. Insert the other end of cord through the open slot on the backside of the toothed cam. Pull through and tie a Scaffold knot leaving it somewhat loose. <br /><br /><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VHeI71IBCaM/YYFj6f4UDyI/AAAAAAAACTo/joh0B79PsmEh_qa2UFqQJbw89QBk1ki8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/PXL_20211102_130456603-01.jpeg"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VHeI71IBCaM/YYFj6f4UDyI/AAAAAAAACTo/joh0B79PsmEh_qa2UFqQJbw89QBk1ki8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/PXL_20211102_130456603-01.jpeg" /></a><br /><br />4) Adjust knot so the loop is the correct size for your hand/thumb. <b>Getting the size just right is a critical</b> and a tricky step because you don’t want to tighten the knot all the way which makes it hard to loosen and adjust. This step is trial and error and you probably want to have the rope and ‘biner on hand that you’ll be using it with so that it’s easier to judge the most efficient size of the thumb loop. The goal is to keep it as small as possible and to be able to open the cam all the way till it bumps into the plastic house (see last photo below). This is important so that it doesn't snag the rope. Once you’re happy with the size, cinch it down tight, trim the excess cord off and burn the end. <br /><br /><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ra5-sO4HZuU/YYFkZM2Hq3I/AAAAAAAACTw/K1pZ0lfij8QZ2Zb6QcSGiItvBVEi4MA1gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/PXL_20211102_140325381-01.jpeg"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ra5-sO4HZuU/YYFkZM2Hq3I/AAAAAAAACTw/K1pZ0lfij8QZ2Zb6QcSGiItvBVEi4MA1gCLcBGAsYHQ/w320-h320/PXL_20211102_140325381-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a> <a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m8EaDVN_wMQ/YYFlPslg2yI/AAAAAAAACUE/lU5tMYZbU_4T45usWPcLlrOF6zrtZI-_ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/PXL_20211102_140835209-01.jpeg"><img border="0" height="321" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m8EaDVN_wMQ/YYFlPslg2yI/AAAAAAAACUE/lU5tMYZbU_4T45usWPcLlrOF6zrtZI-_ACLcBGAsYHQ/w321-h321/PXL_20211102_140835209-01.jpeg" width="321" /></a> <br /><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ACRmCBsaENo/YYFlWNgLmBI/AAAAAAAACUM/uxnIwd2AT7EDybX-QSivrRKYm498pOmJwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/PXL_20211102_142945729-01.jpeg"><img border="0" height="321" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ACRmCBsaENo/YYFlWNgLmBI/AAAAAAAACUM/uxnIwd2AT7EDybX-QSivrRKYm498pOmJwCLcBGAsYHQ/w320-h321/PXL_20211102_142945729-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a> <br /><br /><br />I’ve not found the RipCord to interfere with the action of the MT. In my setup it's not possible for the loop to get sucked into the toothed cam because it’s too small and there is no loose dangling end to get sucked in. I also haven’t found the loop catching on anything while climbing/"falling" because of its position on the back side of the device out of the way. YMMV.<br /><br /><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jZ0c9mJrLuA/YYFoGyx_mYI/AAAAAAAACUw/sQXsLv-LFFQqHSmfuuZBRhTkB-_2naUPgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/PXL_20211102_143235157-01.jpeg"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jZ0c9mJrLuA/YYFoGyx_mYI/AAAAAAAACUw/sQXsLv-LFFQqHSmfuuZBRhTkB-_2naUPgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/PXL_20211102_143235157-01.jpeg" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b2OlBDPc8-0/YYGp5xjPNJI/AAAAAAAACVA/ue3og54fW6UTcXW_jV84XKoJcgTHjrPtgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1279/PXL_20211102_202940860-01.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1279" data-original-width="1279" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b2OlBDPc8-0/YYGp5xjPNJI/AAAAAAAACVA/ue3og54fW6UTcXW_jV84XKoJcgTHjrPtgCLcBGAsYHQ/w320-h320/PXL_20211102_202940860-01.jpeg" width="320" /></a><br /><br />On the Tope Rope Solo list on FB a couple of people did not like the idea of the cam teeth being close to the rope while rapping and the possibility of the teeth snagging the rope. This has never happened in over a year of use. Take a look at the above right photo which shows the thumb loop in use with the MT cover swung open. It's clear that the rope rotates around the pulley away from the toothed cam and at it's closest there is 5mm-6mm clearance. This is with a 9.5 rope. With a rope of 10mm or larger it could be a concern. With smaller diameter ropes it's not an issue. As with all things I post, if you are not comfortable with it, by all means don't do it. I'm simply sharing my experience.</div><div><br /></div><div>The following video clip shows one of my TRS setups (with Trango Vergo primary device) with the MicroTrax as a backup and the ease with which one can easily descend at any point. This shows me climbing and rapping the first 25' of a 100' route.</div><div><br /></div><div><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/io0BRRbK_Rc" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe><br /><br /><b>BONUS</b>: The RipCord loop can also be used as a very efficient tow loop if using the MT as your primary device. Use the loop to connect to your necklace or chest harness. When transitioning to descending, it’s easy to put a Grigri on the other free strand of rope and take it up tight, release the MT/NT and take it off the rope and just leave it hanging on your necklace/chest harness while rapping.</div><div>_________________________________________________________________</div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: large;">*</span> <i style="color: #222222; font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: #343434; font-family: Arial;">“</span><span style="color: #343434; font-family: Arial;">Petzl has studied the current usage of the MINI TRAXION as a self-belay device on a fixed rope. Serious accidents and many handling errors have been reported.</span></i></div><p align="left" class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Calibri; line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 6pt;"><i><span style="color: #343434; font-family: Arial;">The risk of using the device with the cam held open is significant, as well as the possibility of accidental opening of the cam when climbing.</span></i></p><p align="left" class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Calibri; line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><i><span style="color: #343434; font-family: Arial;">Consequently, the MINI TRAXION must be paired with a different ascender: ASCENSION, BASIC, MICROCENDER... Petzl does not recommend using a system consisting of only two MINI TRAXION for self-belayed solo climbing with a fixed rope.”</span></i></p><p align="left" class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Calibri; line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><i><span style="color: #343434; font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></i></p><p align="left" class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="color: #343434; font-family: Arial;"><i><a href="https://www.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/Appendix-4--Precautions-and-introduction-to-risk-analysis?ActivityName=rock-climbing">https://www.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/Appendix-4--Precautions-and-introduction-to-risk-analysis?ActivityName=rock-climbing</a></i></span></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-16909009184138147282021-02-23T11:21:00.003-05:002021-02-23T12:20:40.761-05:00MicroTrax Keeper/TR solo cord<p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">OK, kiddos. It’s time for another “show ’n tell”. This time something I ripped off the basic idea from a Mt. Proj. post. <</span><a href="https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/119480325/didja-know-the-petzl-micro-traxion-has-a-keeper-cord-hole" style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="s2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(158, 74, 47); color: #9e4a2f; font-kerning: none;">https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/119480325/didja-know-the-petzl-micro-traxion-has-a-keeper-cord-hole</span></a><span style="font-family: inherit;">> The poster claims that someone associated with Petzl told him about this hidden secret. </span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">There’s a small hole in the plastic casing of the MT that goes through the spine and out the side. This allow a 1.5 mm cord to be attached that can act as a keeper cord or attachment point for TRS necklace/webbing/harness</span></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-81ClqlyGYnw/YDUxrOLqm_I/AAAAAAAACOM/U1qzP0apY4MgcSJt23cgKbWltT1CxVIXQCLcBGAsYHQ/s825/IMG_20200901_143530.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="825" data-original-width="825" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-81ClqlyGYnw/YDUxrOLqm_I/AAAAAAAACOM/U1qzP0apY4MgcSJt23cgKbWltT1CxVIXQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200901_143530.jpg" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C7F8KgslpAg/YDUxxBqeYGI/AAAAAAAACOQ/e-_FtARPBvYGGurS-M9w8T7TuUbayqRTACLcBGAsYHQ/s724/IMG_20200901_123901.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="724" data-original-width="724" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C7F8KgslpAg/YDUxxBqeYGI/AAAAAAAACOQ/e-_FtARPBvYGGurS-M9w8T7TuUbayqRTACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200901_123901.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QqkMXP4tBo0/YDUynAugffI/AAAAAAAACO8/qJePf20Ubrw6E9Y6gb_hfTP2IKVd5gDrACLcBGAsYHQ/s673/IMG_20200901_123212.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="673" data-original-width="673" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QqkMXP4tBo0/YDUynAugffI/AAAAAAAACO8/qJePf20Ubrw6E9Y6gb_hfTP2IKVd5gDrACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200901_123212.jpg" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OSpuR0rtsAE/YDUy8etQxMI/AAAAAAAACPI/4M8qSnOvm4IrnlCNo6isqQImnA-Aj_PqwCLcBGAsYHQ/s650/IMG_20200901_123107.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="650" data-original-width="650" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OSpuR0rtsAE/YDUy8etQxMI/AAAAAAAACPI/4M8qSnOvm4IrnlCNo6isqQImnA-Aj_PqwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200901_123107.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dTW588btXl0/YDUyH-UE40I/AAAAAAAACOw/wQdKIUBSTWgtQ3TXvrLXm7xsKFEFVlcoACLcBGAsYHQ/s927/IMG_20200901_124032.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="927" data-original-width="927" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dTW588btXl0/YDUyH-UE40I/AAAAAAAACOw/wQdKIUBSTWgtQ3TXvrLXm7xsKFEFVlcoACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200901_124032.jpg" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LKHHDKtwezI/YDUx-lSkwZI/AAAAAAAACOg/QVt8ah6QvCsVBDWhyDjo38SzLSabSWjMwCLcBGAsYHQ/s833/IMG_20200901_142230.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="833" data-original-width="833" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LKHHDKtwezI/YDUx-lSkwZI/AAAAAAAACOg/QVt8ah6QvCsVBDWhyDjo38SzLSabSWjMwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200901_142230.jpg" /></a></div><br /> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div></div></span></div><p></p><ul class="ul1"><li class="li1" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">If you take the MT off before you rap, it helps keep you from dropping it</span></span></li><li class="li1" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">If using the MT as primary device, it can be used to connect to your necklace/webbing/harness and will hold it up for feeding</span></span></li><li class="li1" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">It’s simple to take ‘biner out, remove MT from rope and let it dangle from necklace while rapping. </span></span></li><li class="li1" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Or, you can take ‘biner out, lockout the MT and rap. This leaves on the rope and ready to reconnect at the base. It seems to hold it at an angle where it won’t catch the cam and re-engage. A nasty habit that it normally has. </span></span></li></ul><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The neat thing about attaching a cord this way is that doesn’t interfere with the opening and closing of the side plate</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Only 1.5mm cord or less will work. (You might be able to get a 2mm piece through but it would be a challenge)</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></p><ol class="ol1"><li class="li1" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">cut a length of cord (better too long than short 10” is a good length</span></span></li><li class="li1" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">melt one end and with a its grab the end and pull and twist. This gives a nice taper to the end.</span></span></li><li class="li1" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">tie a loop using an overhand knot in the other end making the loop the desire size.</span></span></li><li class="li1" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">take the other end and thread it through the MT casing from the spine side gently feeding it until it comes out the side of the casing.</span></span></li><li class="li1" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">tie an overhand stopper knot adjusting it for the desired length</span></span></li><li class="li1" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">cut the extra cord about 1/2” from the knot</span></span></li><li class="li1" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">burn the end so that a little molten blob forms near the knot</span></span></li><li class="li1" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">pull loop end until the knot completely seats in the the hollow space in the MT casing.</span></span></li></ol><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">(If I were just going to use as a keeper cord I’d make it a bit longer and use the loop to form a slip knot that could be cinched down on the ‘biner)</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Wah-La!</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">PS apparently the Petzl Sm’D ‘biner has a matching hole if your primary goal was to have it on a “leash”. If you used this ‘biner, you'd do away with the loop and just have another stopper knot on each end of the cord.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">=======================</span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><b><span style="font-family: inherit;">MicroTrax Addendum</span></b></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 15px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><b></b></span><br /></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(158, 74, 47); color: #9e4a2f; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); color: black; font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">(only pertinent if you use the MT for TR-soloing and hold it up by a leash connected to the MT as detailed above</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(158, 74, 47); color: #9e4a2f; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); color: black; font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">=======================</span></span></p><p class="p4" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><b><span style="font-family: inherit;">The issue:</span></b></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">If you use the MT as your primary device held vertically with the leash <b>as detailed in my previous post</b>, it’s possible that it can induce more drag than if it is held vertically by making the connection to the ‘biner. Whether or not you’re paying a friction penalty and whether it’s significant or not depends upon the ‘biner/rope combo used. </span></span></p><p class="p4" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Should you give a shit? Well like most things, it depends...</span></span></p><p class="p4" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Simple experiment:</span></b></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">You can perform a simple test to see if you’re paying a friction penalty by using a leash to connect the MT to your necklace/webbing/chest harness. In general, the larger diameter the rope and the larger the diameter/cross-section of a biner, the more likely there could be a significant amount of friction versus a simple doubled loop around the ‘biner connected to the necklace/webbing/harness.</span></span></p><p class="p4" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Do this:</span></span></p><ul class="ul1"><li class="li1" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Hang the rope you use and put the MT with leash on it and pull up the rope - note the amount of friction</span></span></li><li class="li1" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Do same thing but instead of using the leash, use a loop of cord doubled around the ‘biner and pull up the rope - note the amount of friction</span></span></li></ul><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">If you don’t notice any difference or if the difference is insignificant to you, then you’re golden - forget about the rest of the post. If you do notice that there’s significantly more friction/drag using the leash, there’s four possible solutions:</span></span></p><ol class="ol1"><li class="li1" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Use a smaller rope size if you’re using 10 or larger.</span></span></li><li class="li1" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Use an I-beam cross-section or smaller cross-section ‘biner if you’re using a large round cross-section ‘biner. In testing, I used a Edelrid HMS Strike Slider with a 9.5 rope, and while I could sense there was a bit more drag, it was not objectionable.</span></span></li><li class="li1" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Forget the MT leash and just use the doubled loop of cord around the ‘biner and put up with the hassle of putting it on and off and hope you don’t drop it.</span></span></li><li class="li1" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Forget the MT altogether and use a Roll’nLock which you don’t have keep putting on and off when rapping because it positively locks-out (and it feeds just as well) :-)</span></span></li></ol><p class="p4" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Technical explanation</b>:</span></span></p><ul class="ul1"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dJ5_XnOZk3Y/X1ZrLnjHPGI/AAAAAAAACDY/mW8T_KfbdeMUCTqW398FmEI2y9U_8DJ9wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1200/IMG_20200904_120154-01.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="256" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dJ5_XnOZk3Y/X1ZrLnjHPGI/AAAAAAAACDY/mW8T_KfbdeMUCTqW398FmEI2y9U_8DJ9wCLcBGAsYHQ/w256-h256/IMG_20200904_120154-01.jpg" width="256" /></span></a><li class="li1" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The reason that the MT leash may have more friction is that the MT is pulled (held up) which forces the ‘biner down against the rope and pulley. (photo 1). With the wrong rope and ‘biner this causes noticeable friction<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></span></span></li></ul><ul class="ul1"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5UjKf1VWYvk/X1ZrpmdDz9I/AAAAAAAACDk/9c9cRxPAGcQazdCgZibILMJBPAAGr6TbgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1200/IMG_20200904_114806-01.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="256" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5UjKf1VWYvk/X1ZrpmdDz9I/AAAAAAAACDk/9c9cRxPAGcQazdCgZibILMJBPAAGr6TbgCLcBGAsYHQ/w256-h256/IMG_20200904_114806-01.jpg" width="256" /></span></a><li class="li1" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">With the ‘biner cord loop connection, the ‘biner is lifted up and pulled away from the rope/pulley which reduces the pressure on the rope. (photo2) <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></span></span></li></ul><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Bottom line:</span></b></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">We’re not talking about great amounts of friction here in most cases. However, it may be enough to cause you to re-evalutate whether to use the MT leash connection or not, and if you do whether to try and mitigate that. For me the whole leash thing came up because I was constantly taking the MT on and off to rap because of the unpredictable lock-out feature. It’s unfortunate that Petzl didn’t do a better job engineering that because it’s neat feature that's easy to operate with one hand. BUT, if it's going to lock or unlock unpredictably on me then it’s not something I want to use.</span></span></p><p class="p4" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">OK, there you go. Probably more info than most people ever wanted or need to know. TRSers can now have their own leash vs no-leash “discussions" just like surfers and ice climbers! :-)</span></span></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-91480113971059470292021-02-19T14:02:00.007-05:002021-07-23T12:26:32.747-05:00Microtraxion vs Roll’nLock: A Tale of Two Top Rope Solo Back-Up Devices<p><span color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; font-weight: inherit;">This post is for informational purposes only and is the result of my personal experiences. YMMV.</span></p><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;">I thought I’d use the time to write this up while the weather is not cooperating for being out on the rock. Snow, ice, freezing rain and mud are not my cuppa tea! Hat’s off to all you folks who thrive on those conditions!</span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;">First some general info re the MT and R'nL. There is no significant difference in size/weight or feed on the rope. Both use a cam to lock on the rope against the pulley/bushing but they differ as to how they initiate the lock-up. The R’nL has sharp “V” cutout with ribs to grab the rope and initiate the pinching of the cam against the bushing, while the MT uses conical teeth to grab the rope to initiate the lock-up of the cam against the pulley. The MT has a sealed bearing inside the pulley. The R’nL just has a bushing inside the smaller diameter pulley which is integrated into the cam lobe. Both are rated with specs that are adequate for TRS as a primary or back-up device. When loaded onto a rope, the MT cam is completely enclosed inside the device while the cam on the R'nL sticks out below (a bit of a safety concern if the R'nL is used as a primary device above another device).</span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;">In my TRS rigs, I always use a MT or R'nL as a backup. Early on I found it a hassle to take either one off the rope to rap. I was seeking to optimize my system so I didn’t have to take the back-up off at the top of the route when doing laps. Both devices have lock-out modes so they can be held open and stay attached on the rope while sliding freely down the rope when rapping. The R’nL’s lock-out feature is extremely positive and hands free once locked out, though it often takes two hands to do that. (I previously devised a finger loop to allow one-handed operation for that: <span style="font-family: inherit;"><a class="oajrlxb2 g5ia77u1 qu0x051f esr5mh6w e9989ue4 r7d6kgcz rq0escxv nhd2j8a9 nc684nl6 p7hjln8o kvgmc6g5 cxmmr5t8 oygrvhab hcukyx3x jb3vyjys rz4wbd8a qt6c0cv9 a8nywdso i1ao9s8h esuyzwwr f1sip0of lzcic4wl py34i1dx gpro0wi8" href="https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fsicgrips.blogspot.com%2F2020%2F08%2Frollnlock-as-tr-solo-back-up-device.html%3Ffbclid%3DIwAR3CE23Javce_F5OvukwfxijthLGf2ROr8W2IglWBflRIgAiHVXXcm5mGVI&h=AT1DQpX9juowN0yw0ENKtNQP7WfeKVyPeSoW9F0855Xd0weZXWYExiFBvVWT7qoBXqSFTF1NlanuGbPJGDJz5yUGT_sVaXdz8yIb8Pnfw-HMZFFUwFqcviqhfpY11Oezl5vCL6g&__tn__=-UK-R&c[0]=AT0EoZ8HBztNlgRFNkgl0xdGTTdj31WIDVICJ6j7sKHFzhDBmXekN6RDRofSQXzBTpKmKBni4ttGQZUNabIsXzSAOlpVgdSYETzmw02kzS24jHOk9vPXwwnNQZc7xPsJeO0cR35FowR_J4yWq8tT164-8XzJza3arrXdsYV4Q0OBNBBvnpBNNpZ42h5DtlrDUI25AOZUue_h2ua-rw" rel="nofollow noopener" role="link" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: transparent; border-color: initial; border-style: initial; border-width: 0px; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; cursor: pointer; display: inline; font-family: inherit; list-style: none; margin: 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px; text-align: inherit; text-decoration-line: none; touch-action: manipulation;" tabindex="0" target="_blank">https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/.../rollnlock-as-tr-solo...</a></span> )</span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;">The MT’s lock-out feature on the other hand, is finicky and less reliable in my experience. With the MT I’ve randomly experienced both locking-open and locking-on the rope when not wanted. (Could this be why Petzl removed the feature in the new Nano??? ) This could be a result of the size and condition of the ropes I was using but I was never able to isolate the issue. When rapping, it’s annoying to come to an abrupt and sudden stop when it unwontedly locks-on and bites down on the rope. Conversely, it is down right dangerous if it happens to lock-open when climbing and you weight the rope or take a “fall” and your primary device fails. Not likely but could be possible.</span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-weight: 600;">CAUTION: Any device that can be locked open is subject to user error by forgetting to lock it on the rope before climbing/after rapping. ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK!</span></span></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;">A solution for the MT's unpredictability, is to grind off the lock-out nub. Problem solved - at least for safer climbing. However, then the device can’t be locked-open for rapping and I'm forced to remove it from the rope. My solution is to add a simple thumb loop shown below. By this addition I insert thumb and pull up which manually opens the cam while grabbing the rope between the rappel device and the MT when rapping. This positions the hand in the perfect spot for tensioning the rope while rapping with a Lov2, Vergo, or GG or what-have-you. However, this is a manual operation and it is only unlocked while you’re holding it open with the thumb loop. This gives the added benefit of serving as a back-up (like an auto-block would) during the rappel.</span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"><br /></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NKryNW7dctE/YDADdvDcMoI/AAAAAAAACJY/uZ1sxRs4VIUIj_PSofRi4IJ2Yg3oXarBgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1-MTQRCord.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NKryNW7dctE/YDADdvDcMoI/AAAAAAAACJY/uZ1sxRs4VIUIj_PSofRi4IJ2Yg3oXarBgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/1-MTQRCord.jpg" /></span></a><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;">The mod involves adding a thumb loop of accessory cord. I used 1.5 mm accessory to keep the knots as small as possible and out of the way. One end is fed down through the molded in hole in the plastic housing that is intended for an optional keeper cord (older MTs don't have this). A simple overhand knot neatly tucks out of the way in the knot pocket in the housing. The other end of the cord is fed through the hole at the end of the of the toothed cam. This can be secured simply with an over-hand knot that acts as a stopper knot like the other end. However, I’ve chosen to use a Scaffold knot which centers it and keeps it out of the way on the backside of the cam. It took me a bit of experimenting to get the loop exactly the right length for my hand, trying to keep it as small as possible but still be able to easily slip my thumb in and out and be able to grab the free rope strand.</span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;">For me, the beauty of this mod is when using it as a backup for the Lov2 or Vergo, at the top of route; whenever I “fall”; or, any place I want to work a move; I simply hang on the primary device, insert thumb and pull up on the quick release loop on the MT, and descend using the Lov2 or Vergo.</span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wLHG0Gze-qg/YDAD2TDJQWI/AAAAAAAACJk/pqdwy-E2rcIb2LQBqvRdLzxhhNZpAwIbwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1556/2-Lov2-MTComposite.jpg" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="778" data-original-width="1556" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wLHG0Gze-qg/YDAD2TDJQWI/AAAAAAAACJk/pqdwy-E2rcIb2LQBqvRdLzxhhNZpAwIbwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/2-Lov2-MTComposite.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"><br /></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-weight: 600;">Note</span></span>: the fatter the rope the more attention is needed to keep the cam open and teeth out of the way. I use it on 9.4 - 9.9 ropes.</span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"><br /></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"></span></div><h4 class="gmql0nx0 l94mrbxd p1ri9a11 lzcic4wl oud54xpy sqxagodl ku2m03ct" dir="auto" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; font-weight: inherit; margin: 10px 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px; text-transform: uppercase;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v hnhda86s m9osqain" color="var(--secondary-text)" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; font-weight: 700; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit;">BONUS!</span></span></h4><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;">The following mod is only helpful if using the MT as both a primary and secondary (back-up) device. If it is only used as a back-up device, then the basic thumb-loop above is adequate. If it is only used as a primary device, then then just a tow loop is necessary: </span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"><br />B</span><span color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem;">y tying an extra overhand loop </span><span color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem;">off the main thumb loop, the MT can also be used as a primary device held vertically by a necklace/sling. This extra loop provides a connection point that isolates it from the MT's cam and prevents it from opening in the event of a weird fall. </span><span color="var(--primary-text)" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem;"><span style="font-weight: 600;">The main thumb loop should never be used as a connection point to hold vertically!</span></span><span color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem;"> It might seem simpler to not have a separate tow loop, but in a fall backwards/away from the device, the thumb loop-sling connection can open the cam on the MT. </span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span face="Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; color: #050505; font-size: 15px;">The proportion of the thumb loop's legs to each other are critical. 'Y' should always be 2-4 times as long as 'X'. This insures that when it is connected to a sling/harness as the primary device, held vertically, and towed up the rope - the 'Y' portion of the thumb loop will be slack and the weight of the device/rope friction is totally held by the 'X' leg. If 'Y's not slack, there is the possibility that it will open the cam when towed up the rope or during or during a "fall" where the climber falls out way from the device. However the other extreme should be avoided also: 'Y' should not be too long in relation to 'X' as to create a huge loop that could catch on something. The second photo below shows an ideal amount of slack when connected as a primary device. In the video below, the ratio of 'X' to 'Y' is a little too great and creates too big a thumb loop when when connected as a primary device. Hope this all makes sense. If not you can respond below. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span face="Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; color: #050505; font-size: 15px;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span face="Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; color: #050505; font-size: 15px;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S3LbkXZi3-M/YDQWKQ4NZgI/AAAAAAAACMM/tTH2kTKNPSQWVwHFE0KPg362CbOXMIjhACLcBGAsYHQ/MTThumbLoopDimension.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1025" data-original-width="2048" height="320" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S3LbkXZi3-M/YDQWKQ4NZgI/AAAAAAAACMM/tTH2kTKNPSQWVwHFE0KPg362CbOXMIjhACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/MTThumbLoopDimension.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /></div><div><br /></div><span face="Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; color: #050505; font-size: 15px;">The extra connection loop isolates it from opening the cam. It also makes it easier to connect and disconnect because nothing has to be fed through the MT 'biner hole to connect to the necklace/sling. The MT can be opened and closed without having to remove the connection point (cord) like other setups. It took a bit of experimenting with the size and relative locations of the loops to optimize them for my set-up.</span><br /><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><br /></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;">This video clip shows how the double loop can be used either as a connection point to be used as a primary device, or as a quick release for rapping when used as a back-up device. The thumb loop also aids in opening the toothed cam after a fall or weighting the rope by inserting thumb and pulling up. In order to do this, the rope needs to be tensioned below the MT or it needs to be un-weighted. (Also note as stated above that in this example the leg ratio of 'Y' to 'X' is little too great. The overhand knot tow loop should be re-tied to reduce that ratio. This is also the beauty of this set-up, in that it is easy to re-tie the overhand loop to adjust the relative leg lengths.)<span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><br /></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"></span></div><h4 class="gmql0nx0 l94mrbxd p1ri9a11 lzcic4wl oud54xpy sqxagodl ku2m03ct" dir="auto" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; font-weight: inherit; margin: 10px 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px; text-transform: uppercase;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="410" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7rlgtxrGpss" width="428" youtube-src-id="7rlgtxrGpss"></iframe></div><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v hnhda86s m9osqain" color="var(--secondary-text)" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; font-weight: 700; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit;"><h4 class="gmql0nx0 l94mrbxd p1ri9a11 lzcic4wl oud54xpy sqxagodl ku2m03ct" dir="auto" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; font-weight: inherit; margin: 10px 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px; text-transform: uppercase;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v hnhda86s m9osqain" color="var(--secondary-text)" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; font-weight: 700; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></h4>BACK TO THE R’NL</span></span></h4><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"><br />Nowadays, if I’m using it as my backup, I’ve found an easy and comfortable way to grab the device and open the cam while grabbing the rope just ahead of the device. See photo. This allows me to keep the cam open and grab the rope at the same time. I grab the R’nL cam with the lower part of my hand and pivot the cam up using my lower part of my hand and fingers to keep it open and wrapping my hand around the rope and device together. Simple to do and I don’t have to use the finger/thumb loop; and, the cam is still active should my hand come of the rope while rappelling so it would act like an auto-block. Plus, I still have the option to lock the R'nL open if I desire.</span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hxAKC8JTSlU/YDAJbFeY7QI/AAAAAAAACKw/3IyDjd-GRpktVQwii1oepsH6CAe6UwKEQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2508/4-R%2527nLComposite.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1253" data-original-width="2508" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hxAKC8JTSlU/YDAJbFeY7QI/AAAAAAAACKw/3IyDjd-GRpktVQwii1oepsH6CAe6UwKEQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/4-R%2527nLComposite.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VyFUSjWVfl8/YDAKNJ44UiI/AAAAAAAACLM/7ekuq_Wi0XUU9_kDeCKLn-CJa8DuwEZfACLcBGAsYHQ/s644/5-PXL_20210217_150528360.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="644" data-original-width="638" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VyFUSjWVfl8/YDAKNJ44UiI/AAAAAAAACLM/7ekuq_Wi0XUU9_kDeCKLn-CJa8DuwEZfACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/5-PXL_20210217_150528360.jpg" /></a></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"><br /></span></div><br />Sooo, bottom line: Both do their job well. Both are suited to be either a primary or a secondary/back-up TRS device. Both devices can easily be used in series with each other for a TRS rig: one as primary, the other as secondary. The drawback being that a GG, ATC, or some such rappel device has to be added in order to rap (unless using a Lov Taz2 or a Vergo). <span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-weight: 600;">Neither are rated as a primary device for LRSing</span></span>, but both can serve as a cache loop manager and then be used as a primary or back-up for TRSing back to the anchors.</span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"><br /></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"></span></div><h4 class="gmql0nx0 l94mrbxd p1ri9a11 lzcic4wl oud54xpy sqxagodl ku2m03ct" dir="auto" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; font-weight: inherit; margin: 10px 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px; text-transform: uppercase;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v hnhda86s m9osqain" color="var(--secondary-text)" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; font-weight: 700; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit;">SUMMARY</span></span></h4><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"></span></div><h4 class="gmql0nx0 l94mrbxd p1ri9a11 lzcic4wl oud54xpy sqxagodl ku2m03ct" dir="auto" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; font-weight: inherit; margin: 10px 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px; text-transform: uppercase;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v hnhda86s m9osqain" color="var(--secondary-text)" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; font-weight: 700; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit;">MT</span></span></h4><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;">Positives: Pivots slightly less when locking up; Better/more efficient for hauling or any time there is a significant bend in the rope with weight on it (because of bearings in the pulley); it’s slightly more compact; As a TRS primary device with the double loop mod, it’s easy to connect/disconnect to chest sling/necklace. With thumb loop (and tab removed), it’s always safely locked on rope.</span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;">Negatives: If the lock-out tab is not removed, it is finicky and can be a PITA when rapping and dangerous if it locks open un-noticed; slightly more friction with fatter ropes/‘biners when ascending (though not significant); just slightly harder to remove from rope once it’s weighted (thumb loop alleviates that); no easy way to manually hold open while rapping (without thumb-loop) if you’ve ground the tab off. Needs modifying to be optimal IMO (or buy a new Nano that doesn't have the lock-out tab).</span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"></span></div><h4 class="gmql0nx0 l94mrbxd p1ri9a11 lzcic4wl oud54xpy sqxagodl ku2m03ct" dir="auto" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; font-weight: inherit; margin: 10px 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px; text-transform: uppercase;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v hnhda86s m9osqain" color="var(--secondary-text)" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; font-weight: 700; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit;">R’NL</span></span></h4><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;">Positives: Positive hands-free lock-out if needed; easy to manually hold open device while rapping without a thumb/finger loop; slightly less friction when used as a primary device; half the cost of the MT; little to no possibility of it unwontedly locking open</span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;">Negatives: Pivots a slightly more when locking up because of length of device; a bit of a hassle (even with finger loop) to lock open the cam because the cam must be rotated significantly. Not the best if you’re going to do a lot of hauling. The external location of the cam outside the housing is a safety concern when using as a primary TRS device above another device.</span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"></span></div><h4 class="gmql0nx0 l94mrbxd p1ri9a11 lzcic4wl oud54xpy sqxagodl ku2m03ct" dir="auto" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; font-weight: inherit; margin: 10px 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px; text-transform: uppercase;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v hnhda86s m9osqain" color="var(--secondary-text)" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; font-weight: 700; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit;">SO THEN…</span></span></h4><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;">Question: which one is better as a back-up?</span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;">Answer: It depends - they both have have positives and negatives. If your leaving it on the rope when rapping and want it to be hands-free, then the R’nL is the answer. If you’ve ground the tab off the MT, then using the thumb loop and manually hold it open while rapping is super slick. If you don’t have either device, pick the one that has the most positive features for your intended uses.</span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;">Question: Should you switch from one to the other?</span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;">Answer: Probably not, unless one of the methods for keeping it open while rapping has a significant advantage for you or unless you plan on doing a lot of hauling also, then, defiitely the MT would be better.</span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"></span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span style="background-color: #e9e1d8;"><b>Update: </b>There have been recent claims that the R’nL will not lock up if twists on the rope. I think this would be more of a concern if using the RnL as a primary device. Test and use at your own risk. I’ve mainly used it as a back up and in the lower position the top device should keep it from twisting on the rope. If this is a concern to you, by all means use the MicroTrax.</span></div><div class="bi6gxh9e" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 8px;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql gk29lw5a jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id" color="var(--primary-text)" style="background-color: #e9e1d8; font-family: inherit; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.3333; max-width: 100%; min-width: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-word;"></span></div><h4 class="gmql0nx0 l94mrbxd p1ri9a11 lzcic4wl oud54xpy sqxagodl ku2m03ct" dir="auto" style="color: #050505; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; font-weight: inherit; margin: 10px 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px; text-transform: uppercase;"><br /></h4>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-24973888501747463672021-01-26T12:39:00.007-05:002021-01-27T11:55:09.737-05:00Competition / Brotherhood Knot<p> <span style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px;">==================</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PDTiu7oGyio/YBBP_9I1JkI/AAAAAAAACHY/Kx7S1J-I9L8xx3MfClmjFWnxYGcQclaQQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/CompetitionKnotComposite.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PDTiu7oGyio/YBBP_9I1JkI/AAAAAAAACHY/Kx7S1J-I9L8xx3MfClmjFWnxYGcQclaQQCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h400/CompetitionKnotComposite.jpg" width="400" /></a><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;">First off, I’m not trying to convince anyone - I’m just putting this out there for anyone interested. Most people are content using whatever knot they’ve always been using. However, since learning of the Competition Knot, I’ve found that it meets my needs most of the time and I've used it off and on for the last 5 years. Some Europeans have been using it for decades. I assume it got it’s name from being used for competition climbing and the likelihood of whipping on it and not impossibly cinching up, though I haven’t confirmed that.</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b><br /></b></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b><br /></b></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b><br /></b></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b><br /></b></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b>How to tie it:</b><b> </b></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b><br /></b></p><div><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="font-size: 12px;"><a href="https://www.krstendelap.com/tech-tips/brotherhood-knot">https://www.krstendelap.com/tech-tips/brotherhood-knot</a></span></span><div><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px;"><a href="https://youtu.be/Au8KiUS4RCc">https://youtu.be/Au8KiUS4RCc</a> </span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px;"><a href="https://youtu.be/QOHKc4BSMOA">https://youtu.be/QOHKc4BSMOA</a> (erroneously called a "Ring Bend" in this video)</span><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xVUnAZkeyOQ/YBBQ7q8uRnI/AAAAAAAACHk/wq4P3rqdA4ceDbqQQKCh2AoJBFyCHuS-gCLcBGAsYHQ/s2133/TyingCompetitionKnot%2Bcopy.jpg" style="clear: right; font-family: Times; font-size: medium; font-weight: 700; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1054" data-original-width="2133" height="317" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xVUnAZkeyOQ/YBBQ7q8uRnI/AAAAAAAACHk/wq4P3rqdA4ceDbqQQKCh2AoJBFyCHuS-gCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h317/TyingCompetitionKnot%2Bcopy.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><b>A simple description</b> - based on how it’s tied is an "overhand looped follow-through” - i.e. the exit strand circles around and <b>enters the same point as the original strand</b> and follows it back around for ‘another lap’.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;">It has alternately been called the Brotherhood Knot (AMGA manual), It is related to, and has erroneously been identified as a Ring Bend/Water Knot, and Offset Overhand. </span>It’s <b>NOT</b> an overhand retrace or overhand on a bight, in which the exit strand retraces the original strand <b>back through in the opposite direction and both exit the knot on the same side</b>. Like these and many other knots (including the EDK and Overhand on a Bight), it is based on the basic geometry of the Overhand Knot</p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PY9UlkPPfvs/YBBRVVj87nI/AAAAAAAACHs/kYD68u-s2Qki5AXP8r6GyGFaKSBLGnnpwCLcBGAsYHQ/s998/RingBend-WaterKnot.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="998" data-original-width="998" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PY9UlkPPfvs/YBBRVVj87nI/AAAAAAAACHs/kYD68u-s2Qki5AXP8r6GyGFaKSBLGnnpwCLcBGAsYHQ/w200-h200/RingBend-WaterKnot.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IGtLNyzR8ek/YBBRpiQBZqI/AAAAAAAACH0/lKzFiU6mSoM8GPUDoNd-X2knrpw5FBdnACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/EDK.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IGtLNyzR8ek/YBBRpiQBZqI/AAAAAAAACH0/lKzFiU6mSoM8GPUDoNd-X2knrpw5FBdnACLcBGAsYHQ/w200-h200/EDK.jpg" width="200" /></a><span style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eZkk6_BIPCA/YBGX7IU_xtI/AAAAAAAACIo/DQyVtrBW4GE-Zty8sj5AS1yzxjbmXba8gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1054/CompetitionVSOverhandOnABight.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1054" data-original-width="1054" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eZkk6_BIPCA/YBGX7IU_xtI/AAAAAAAACIo/DQyVtrBW4GE-Zty8sj5AS1yzxjbmXba8gCLcBGAsYHQ/w200-h200/CompetitionVSOverhandOnABight.jpg" width="200" /></a><br /><br /></span></div></div><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"> <span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;">One of the beauties of the competition knot is that it can only constrict so much in a fall because it is pulling against itself, pulling two of the constricting bights in opposite directions, keeping it somewhat “open” so that it’s easier to untie. Untying it is similar to untying a Figure-8 by flipping two bights to loosen it.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Positives</b></span></p><ul class="ul1"><li class="li2" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;">uses less rope</span></li><li class="li2" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;">less bulk</span></li><li class="li2" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;">faster to tie (once you know how)</span></li><li class="li2" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;">similar to figure-8 in that no back-up knot is needed (bowline requires a backup knot)</span></li><li class="li2" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;">easy to untie but will not untie by itself if there is no pressure on it</span></li><li class="li2" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;">easy to inspect once you (or your partner) becomes use to it</span></li><li class="li2" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;">It’s helpful as ropes dimeters grow smaller and knots constrict tighter</span></li><li class="li2" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;">especially good when doing laps or working a section of a route because of constant whipping/hanging/rapping which causes knots to constrict more over time</span></li></ul><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Negatives</b> </span></p><ul class="ul1"><li class="li2" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;">It is little known so it makes people wary. People are afraid of the unknown (sometimes with good reason). </span></li><li class="li2" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;">Not as easy to untie as a Bowline after whipping but better than a Figure-8</span></li><li class="li2" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;">Un-informed partners can’t double check you (but remember our context here is rope soloing :-)</span></li><li class="li2" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;">May not be quite as strong as other tie-in knots, but when is the last time you heard of a rope breaking at the knot from a fall? Your bod will break before the knot does!</span></li><li class="li2" style="-webkit-text-stroke: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;">If they see you using it in a gym, they will probably call you out.</span></li></ul><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;">Finally, like most knots, it needs to be dressed properly “... tied neatly, with no crossed strands and adequate tail” and tuck extra tail back through belay loop to keep out of the way.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;">To check knot, you need to do the 2, 2, 2, 2 check with one of the loops strands and the live rope pulling in opposite directions</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;">Note: If you’re geometrically/spatially/or knot challenged, or paranoid re the veracity and appropriateness of this knot...<b>DO NOT USE IT!</b></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;">YMMV</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;">--------------------------------------------------------------------</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Additional background info</b>: </span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></p><p class="p4" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(158, 74, 47); color: #9e4a2f; font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-kerning: none; text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/ring_knot-671974#main">https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/ring_knot-671974#main</a></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></p><p class="p4" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(158, 74, 47); color: #9e4a2f; font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-kerning: none; text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/107108289/ring-bend-as-tie-in-knot">https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/107108289/ring-bend-as-tie-in-knot</a></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><a href="https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/111814291/how-do-you-tie-in?page=2 ">https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/111814291/how-do-you-tie-in?page=2 </a></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></p><p class="p4" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(158, 74, 47); color: #9e4a2f; font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-kerning: none; text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3016274/Tying-in-with-an-Overhand-Follow-Through">http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3016274/Tying-in-with-an-Overhand-Follow-Through</a></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></p></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-35360376421457240022020-08-29T09:22:00.002-05:002020-08-31T09:39:07.385-05:00Roll'nLock as TR-solo Back-Up DeviceThe Roll’nLock is one of the best pieces of kit IMO. It can be used as a primary device, but it’s use as a secondary backup device is where it really shines. While most people use the Microtrax as a back-up according to my recent survey, I feel that the RnL has one main advantage. While both devices run freely on the rope; both lock-up immediately because of the teeth/ribs; and both have the ability to be locked open when you’re ready to rap so that it will freely run down the rope....the Microtrax has a nasty flaw IMO.<br /><br /><br />It has the habit of slipping from the lock-open position to locking on the rope in the middle of a rap causing you to come to an abrupt halt. Jarring to say the least and a PITA. You then have to unweight the device (which may take some doing if you’re on a overhung pitch), lock it open again and resume your rap. This can happen multiple times on a single rap and is just a big CF. The solution when using a Microtrax for backup is to completely remove the device from the rope then put it back on for climbing. To me this just interrupts the whole flow of TRSing and introduces the possibility of dropping it at the top of the pitch. (As a side note I’ve also had the Microtrax unexpectedly go from being locked on the rope to a lock-open position also - potentially dangerous. This was after checking and making sure that it was locked on the rope. That’s why some people file/grind off the lock-open tab). With the RnL I’ve never had either of these situations happen.<br /><br /><br />The lock-open mode of the RnL is much more positive and has never slipped back into the lock-on-rope mode while rapping. Depending upon one’s setup, that means that at the top of the route (or anywhere in-between) it’s simple to hang on the primary device, lock open the RnL and rap. What could be easier? Well actually there is one way to make it easier. Normally locking it open is a two-handed operation. With the addition of a finger loop pull-cord it is a much more manageable one-handed operation.<br /><br /><br />A fellow TRSer turned me on to the idea from the following video (<a href="https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fyoutu.be%2FAt3m_DDP2fA%3Ffbclid%3DIwAR16fp-5KN7qe5aG3ijsQHY0I1xYI3hzDXAJIcV4PsH-PW4Yexm20JkoavU&h=AT22NFGVZCQMjS9tVCzbV0jldaRP6ibHCirx5E-3_bqVu3VMd23tJQTL8hfNGBYucrO6a3WHuyDX0QzgFbc47P9RcA-Z-74SYZyxnD76-GldV407I4QS3dUbZlg0z7QiU1KUh6ttmcaQujiVfkOAxH8I9QDI2A">https://youtu.be/At3m_DDP2fA</a> at the 7:32 mark). The solution in the video is kind of bulky and could get in the way. I’ve adapted the idea and attached the cord a bit differently and made it into an index finger loop. I used a 1.5mm diameter piece of accessory cord that is looped around the center post of the lock mechanism (see photo). It’s easiest to use a piece that’s several inches longer than what you’ll need to allow you to play around with what size of loop works best for you. I use a simple overhand knot that’s easy to undo and move to get the right sized loop. Hint: to make it as efficient as possible and keep it out of the way, make the loop as small as possible. Once you work out the best size for your hands/fingers, tighten knot, trim the ends short and burn them, then pull on the loop and the knot will tuck against the post out of the way. My experience is that it stays completely out of the way and doesn’t interfere with the action of the cam when climbing or rapping.<br /><br /><br />To lock-out the cam, insert index finger in the loop, press thumb against the pulley and pull out and up to rotate the cam ~90 deg. until the lock tab slips over the lock pin. To unlock. insert index finger, press thumb against pulley and pull up to release and allow cam to rotate back onto the rope.<br />For me, using the RnL an a backup to either the TAZ Lov2 or the Trango Vergo offers the most seamless TR climbing possible. Climb, hang on primary device, lock-open the RnL, and rap.<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dGAeRl7ho_k/X00LOpqIrZI/AAAAAAAACCs/-LKWDixcApor9WvubloQdlIhtSE1iUvyACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20200825_155635.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dGAeRl7ho_k/X00LOpqIrZI/AAAAAAAACCs/-LKWDixcApor9WvubloQdlIhtSE1iUvyACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20200825_155635.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />If the loop bothers you because you're afraid it might catch on something (I'm not), then you can alway pull the loop from the knotted end so that it becomes a knotted pull-cord.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vPIzcGjsR0k/X00LXOrB8aI/AAAAAAAACC0/909wuf_mcr4MVm_hLLTIPDaoV5S3J9oKQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200828_160311-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vPIzcGjsR0k/X00LXOrB8aI/AAAAAAAACC0/909wuf_mcr4MVm_hLLTIPDaoV5S3J9oKQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20200828_160311-01.jpg" /></a></div><br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-12197225944117080652020-08-20T14:58:00.018-05:002021-05-26T15:33:43.112-05:00Vergo for Top Rope Soloing<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1qdVIj6mk4w/Xz6_tnLHzKI/AAAAAAAAB74/yKokBPHsipEcEakYUkdBfugg_lOlF2tKgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20200810_105356-b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="1000" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1qdVIj6mk4w/Xz6_tnLHzKI/AAAAAAAAB74/yKokBPHsipEcEakYUkdBfugg_lOlF2tKgCLcBGAsYHQ/w750-h1000/IMG_20200810_105356-b.jpg" width="750" /></a></div><div><br /></div>I’ll never forget about 15 years ago climbing in the Gunks and sitting on a belay ledge watching a young buck top-rope-soloing working on a 5.13 roof. He was constantly hucking off it with nothing but a Cinch. I’d hear this yell and then look up and see him go flying out into space. Because the route was so radically overhung he’d have to lower way back down past us to get back on the rock and then climb back up another 75’ to give it another go. I wasn't new to rope soloing - I’d been doing it for years - but I WAS totally freaked out to see that he was doing it without a backup - not even a knot (unless it was way down below where I could see). However I was also totally impressed that it was catching him every time and didn’t seem to be too much hassle managing the rope while climbing. That’s when I decided maybe I should give the device a try instead of using a GG. <div><br /></div><div>Long story short: I used it for a while and then got rid of it. I didn’t like it’s design and had difficulty in smoothly controlling the descent. Also, about the time I’d tried it, accident reports started cropping up on various climbing boards in relation to normal usage. Some claimed it was the design of the device, others claimed that it was user error. I’d also read and participated in a number of threads on RockClimbing.com and SuperTopo where Mal Daly (former Trango owner), was super emphatic about <b>NEVER, EVER, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE</b> using the Cinch for soloing of any kind. He said his comments were based on testing and experience. (Of course that’d probably be the response of any business owner in relation to using a device outside of its intended use and wanting to legally cover their butt.) </div><div><br /></div><div>Fast forward many years and Trango came out with the Vergo - similar to the Cinch but newly designed from the ground up. After several false starts and recalls, they finally got everything sorted out. I read about a couple of people who were using it for TRS but I immediately dismissed it because of my less than ideal experience with the Cinch. However I started thinking that I probably shouldn’t trash it without first hand info and experience. I started thinking that maybe the design changes had improved it and I should give it an in-depth look trying to not let my previous experience prejudice my view, </div><div><br /></div><div>So that’s the back story. </div><div><br /></div><div>For the last year+ I’ve been using the Taz Lov2 as my main TRS device and consider it the best all-in-one device available. So this review will compare it to that standard. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0282/7557/2841/files/VERGO_INSTRUCTIONS_updated_address.pdf " target="_blank">Vergo manual</a></div><div>Additional info: <a href="https://blog.trango.com/trango-vergo-questions-answered" target="_blank">Trango Blog</a></div><div><br /></div><div>Specs - weight: 196gm (201gm actual); rope range: 8.9 - 10.7; cost $99; size: 100mm x 68mm x 33mm Materials: steel, aluminum, and plastic </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Design</b></div><div>The Vergo is similar in design to the Cinch and though Trango says that it has been totally redesigned from the ground up, the principles by how it operates are the same but it has been improved in several ways: the handle attachment point has been moved from the aluminum half to the steel half and has been lengthened; the geometry of the release action for lowering has been refined; the geometry of the rope path has been refined and narrowed to handle smaller diameter ropes; the pinch pin which was reported to wear quickly on the Cinch has been hardened to increase wear resistance; and the locking/pinching rope geometry of the pivoting halves has been modified. It is also slightly bigger and heavier overall. </div><div><br /></div><div>There are three main types of active all-in-one ABDs (assisted belay device) based on rope path: straight-through (Lov2/Faders SUM/Vergo) those where the rope wraps around a cam (Grigri/Eddy/Birdie/Lifeguard); and those that have the rope wrapping around a wheel (Revo/Silent Partner). It’s only the wheeled and straight through devices that can reduce feed resistance to a reasonable level for TRS in my opinion. The Vergo uses a semi-straight through rope path that has a sight dogleg in order to introduce a certain amount of friction which helps the device itself pivot on the ‘biner and both halves pivot in relation to each other and lock on the rope. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mSUjtHdtxlU/Xz7DAmMXAmI/AAAAAAAAB8U/TsppHFPpU2M3RJkvIPbLwZeu6j0G-hgdQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1000/Vergo-composite.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="968" data-original-width="1000" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mSUjtHdtxlU/Xz7DAmMXAmI/AAAAAAAAB8U/TsppHFPpU2M3RJkvIPbLwZeu6j0G-hgdQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Vergo-composite.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>The Vergo uses a unique design where both halves of the device freely pivot in relation to each other which allows the rope to be pinched between the pinch pin on the aluminum half, and the pinch plate on the steel half, to lock the rope when it is weighted. A very unique design. (The Lov2 use a rocker-arm inside the device to pinch and lock the rope.) Because both halves are pivoting in relation to each other it means the ‘biner can only be attached to one half (one side) of the device. Most other ABDs have the ‘biner connecting to both halves of the device which is inherently stronger. While the materials are sound, the design bothers my intuitive sense of design (see below). </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2MBcGzOO3oQ/Xz7DVJ-05zI/AAAAAAAAB8c/kz5gdWv9UkwqUEefQQTSLUQ_DHN4BNSzACLcBGAsYHQ/s1086/Vergo-weaknesses.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="649" data-original-width="1086" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2MBcGzOO3oQ/Xz7DVJ-05zI/AAAAAAAAB8c/kz5gdWv9UkwqUEefQQTSLUQ_DHN4BNSzACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Vergo-weaknesses.png" width="640" /></a></div><div>While I’m not an engineer, I have designed rock climbing equipment and these issues bother my design intuitions. However, I’m sure the Trango designers/engineers/testers have proven that the design and materials are strong enough and up to the task intended (lead belaying). However the quirky design and thinness of the materials creep me out a bit because I’m using it for an unintended purpose - top rope soloing. The stresses experienced during TRS in normal situation should be well below catching a lead fall. However, the orientation of the device in TRSing and lack of a hand holding the free end of the rope definitely are outside the scope of it’s design parameters. Having said that, after using it i’m comfortable with it based on my testing and experience. <b>However, I would NEVER, EVER under any circumstances want to use this as a LRS device, period!!!
</b></div><div><br /></div><div>Now onto the it’s actual use and how it compares to the Lov2 </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Feeding</b> </div><div>Because of the dog-leg/kink (see photo) in the “straight-through” rope path, there is more resistance when it is being pulled up the rope than devices that have a true straight through path such as the Lov2 or Goblin. This dogleg in the rope path means that it needs to have a bit more weight on the bottom of the rope to start with. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hiD9f2_R5mw/Xz7EcEbe7lI/AAAAAAAAB8o/EQtXewaZsZUOE6P2WdlFnnLODuL4thidACLcBGAsYHQ/s1296/Trango-ropepath.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="783" data-original-width="1296" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hiD9f2_R5mw/Xz7EcEbe7lI/AAAAAAAAB8o/EQtXewaZsZUOE6P2WdlFnnLODuL4thidACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Trango-ropepath.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n7uZBmII8pU/Xz7EpFVo1FI/AAAAAAAAB8s/M9Zs_PeLG-YRkOiDYnoUREzNGPb2OYlgACLcBGAsYHQ/s800/IMG_20200820_110422.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="569" height="410" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n7uZBmII8pU/Xz7EpFVo1FI/AAAAAAAAB8s/M9Zs_PeLG-YRkOiDYnoUREzNGPb2OYlgACLcBGAsYHQ/w291-h410/IMG_20200820_110422.jpg" width="291" /></a></div>With the Lov2 I use a approach shoe or two clove hitched to the bottom of the rope. With the Vergo I needed both shoes a medium sized rock or two inside my shoes. However, it still feeds fairly well but I could sense a slight bit more drag on the rope while moving than with the Lov2. So while the device actually weighs half of what the Lov2 does, it feels a bit heavier while climbing because of the additional drag. I'm not talking about a huge difference though, and it certainly feeds better than any other ABD on the market. As the weight of the rope beneath the device increases as you climb, the feed resistance also increases. Feeding on low angle slab is also less than ideal and one is probably better off with a microtrax or Roll’nLock as the primary device for those types of routes. On the slab I ended up pulling rope on the first 30+’ until the route started getting vertical. This is because the weight of the shoes on the bottom of the rope are not “felt” by the Vergo because of the low-angle.
</div><div><br /></div><div>Feed is an interplay between the size of the rope, the suppleness and how much weight is on the bottom. It takes a bit of experimentation to get these things right to maximize the feed.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Lock up </b></div><div>Lock-up on the Vergo is fairly immediate. It has to pivot to lock like the Lov2 but because it’s a bit smaller, the pivot arc/distance is less than the Lov2. My estimate is it takes 2”-5” at most to lock up compared to the estimated 4-10” of the Lov2. Probably the only devices that lock quicker are the Microtrax and Roll’nlock because of their small size and the toothed/ribbed cam which initiates immediate engagement. Caution: forward falls, like on less than vertical slab, may not lock up because pressure on the rope/device doesn’t allow it to pivot and lock-up and your body pressing against the device will also hinder that. For it to lock, it needs a takes a straight down or a slightly outward fall. This is a characteristic of any straight through type device. However most falls are backwards/outwards away from wall so that shouldn’t be an issue. (And that’s also why you should always use a backup, right?!) </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Rapping</b> </div><div>Rapping is the function that lacks in many good TR devices (MicroTrax, Lift, Goblin, etc.) and is what sets apart many of the ABDs. The rapping function of the Vergo in general is pretty good and has been greatly improved over the Cinch due to the increase in handle size and device geometry changes. The sweet spot for control of rapping is fairly small like the Lov2 but i never felt like I was going to loose control of the decent and was able to fairly easily modulate the speed with one hand on the handle and other hand below on the rope. I think it’s just slightly smoother and easier to use for rapping than the Lov2 because the ergonomics are a bit better on the Vergo and the "sweet spot” might be ever so slightly greater. You still don’t want to yank the handle wide open, but then you don’t want to do that on any brake assisted belay device. With a bit of experience, it’s pretty easy to control though slightly more sensitive than a Grigri. I’d liken the Vergo to the steering sensitivity on a sports car versus a Grigri which would be more analogous to the steering on a normal car. I’m sure that going up or down in rope size from what I use (9.4/9.5) would affect these characteristics somewhat. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Rope Size </b></div><div>Trango says 8.9 to 10.7. I would say that is really stretching it and possibly an outright fabrication re the upper range limit. For regular belaying it might work since the rope is being pulled through the device. However in relation to TRS I tried various ropes at home to see how the feed would be. Using well used ropes in the 9.9 and 10.2 range - it was not pleasant because the narrow, dog-legged rope path. There was just too much friction. In fact for TRSing, with ropes larger than 9.6, I’m sure you’d end up having to pull rope a significant amount of the time, much like a Grigri, or end up having to put an inordinate amount of weight on the bottom of the rope. As mentioned under feed, supple ropes tend to feed better than stiffer ropes (ropes with a high percentage of sheath)</div><div><br /></div><div>For testing I used a well used and slightly fuzzy BD 9.4 and aa fairly new Edelweiss Energy 9.5 Unicore. It seemed like the more flexible and used BD fed just slightly better. I personally would never use the Vergo with anything bigger than a 9.5
It would be interesting to try a rope in the 9.0-9.3 range and see how that worked. My guess is that it would feed even better. <b>HOWEVER, if you have safety concerns using a small diameter rope for TRS, then I’d recommend that you not use the Vergo - the Lov2 would be a better choice.</b> I’m totally comfortable using a rope in the 9.5 range making sure I’m not working a route over sharp edges, or if I am, taking the appropriate precautions. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Down-Climbing </b></div><div>Down climbing with the Vergo is really hit and miss…and probably mostly a miss. Since it’s not something I regularly do, I think it would need more investigation but my initial observation and experiences are not favorable. It tends to lock-up with any downward motion. To even approach being able to down-climb, I had to remove the backup device beneath it (used knots for a back-up) and I needed to be on a vertical route where I could slightly press my body against the vergo and rope. With any backward/outward movement, it locks. A smaller rope might aid in this but I haven’t tested that. </div><div><br /></div><div>The Lov2 fares slightly better because of the rope path through the device is totally straight and because of it being heavier. If down-climbing were an important function to me, I’d probably go with a Goblin or Revo. Both the Vergo and Lov2 leave much to be desired for this function. Having said that more investigation might yield a set-up/rope combo that would allow one to down-climb. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Set-Up </b></div><div><u>For the most efficient feed and minimum lock-up distance of the Vergo, it needs to be held upright in a vertical position with a necklace or chest strap.</u> With other devices used for TRS, it is common to make the connection to the device via the ‘biner hole or to the ‘biner itself in order to hold it up. However on the Vergo this does not work well because it causes the device to hang at an angle that puts more kink in the rope path. <u>In order to orient it for the straightest rope path through the device, I use a loop of 1.5 mm accessory cord slipped over the release handle and around the handle’s axle shaft housing.</u> <b>Anything with a larger diameter could get in the way of the rotation of the two halves of the device which is essential for the proper functioning</b>. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7j_aKv1r5vM/Xz7MjpQ4Y9I/AAAAAAAAB-A/J6iZQ3I0kc8CTpWtylDIx1Qb10wJYGYowCLcBGAsYHQ/s1084/IMG_20200810_152750.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1084" data-original-width="1084" height="329" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7j_aKv1r5vM/Xz7MjpQ4Y9I/AAAAAAAAB-A/J6iZQ3I0kc8CTpWtylDIx1Qb10wJYGYowCLcBGAsYHQ/w329-h329/IMG_20200810_152750.jpg" width="329" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-33J4KYPwN68/Xz7NVd2DjgI/AAAAAAAAB-Q/1o4MnS6iSWol-7zJqrUuqsXBqvQVKfglwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1200/IMG_20200810_153453.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="329" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-33J4KYPwN68/Xz7NVd2DjgI/AAAAAAAAB-Q/1o4MnS6iSWol-7zJqrUuqsXBqvQVKfglwCLcBGAsYHQ/w329-h329/IMG_20200810_153453.jpg" width="329" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lnrBZCUJaaw/Xz7Qz-vdjSI/AAAAAAAAB_U/1uv9fzm-qBMxpa8UKUhoKz9Mumaonx2XwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1000/00000IMG_00000_BURST20200812110639583_COVER-01.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="328" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lnrBZCUJaaw/Xz7Qz-vdjSI/AAAAAAAAB_U/1uv9fzm-qBMxpa8UKUhoKz9Mumaonx2XwCLcBGAsYHQ/w328-h328/00000IMG_00000_BURST20200812110639583_COVER-01.jpeg" width="328" /></a></div>You could also use 5 lb.-10 lb. test monofilament fishing line which would be small enough in diameter to work well and also allow for it to break free from the necklace/harness at a given force in the event of a weird fall. </div><div><br /></div><div>After trying various looking ‘biners, I ended up liking the Edelrid Slider auto-locking ‘biner with a Petzl Tanga keepers sliced in half to act as rubber grommets. This keeps the Vergo centered on the ‘biner but still allows it to freely rotate. This is the same setup that I use with the Lov2. A small rated maillon also works.</div><div><br /></div><div><span style="background-color: #e9e1d9;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: #e9e1d9;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: #e9e1d9;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: #e9e1d9;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: #e9e1d9;"><br /></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="background-color: #e9e1d9;"><b>Backing-up the Vergo</b> <b>Backing-up the Vergo</b></span></div><div><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HrPZohN-ADM/Xz7OsL0w5GI/AAAAAAAAB-c/gUNjLfXKgnMNuLEO37R7R7tJ1yL8U1WPgCLcBGAsYHQ/s874/IMG_20200810_151731-b.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="874" data-original-width="873" height="329" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HrPZohN-ADM/Xz7OsL0w5GI/AAAAAAAAB-c/gUNjLfXKgnMNuLEO37R7R7tJ1yL8U1WPgCLcBGAsYHQ/w329-h329/IMG_20200810_151731-b.jpg" width="329" /></a>For a back up, I started off using a minitrax. The feed worked well but multiple times after locking it open for rapping, it slipped back to the unlocked position then jammed suddenly on the rope and up against the Vergo. When this happened, in order to unlock the minitrax I had to climb back up to a stance or where I could unweight it so I could unlock it. After several bouts I ended up completely taking it off the rope for rapping which is a PIA for hanging top-outs. I’m done with the minitrax as a back-up device unless I’m on a route that allows me to top out and take it off! Part of the reason for using an ABD is to make the climbing and rapping as seamless as possible. That’s not possible when using the microtrax as a backup in my experience. The lock-out feature is a total scourge. </div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><br /></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>The best device IMO for backing up any primary device is the CT Roll’nLock</b> because it’s lock-open feature is positive and never slips into the lock mode…and, it flows up the rope easily and unnoticed and slides down freely when locked out for rapping. It works really well for difficult hanging top outs - which are most of the routes I TRS. The sequence is: hang on the Vergo; unlock the Roll’nLock; and rap - just like the Lov2. Easy, peasy! Can’t be much simpler. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Note: Since I originally wrote this, there have been some potential issues found by users when using the RollnLock below another device. Until I can do extensive testing, I've switched back to the MicroTrax with the mods listed here: </b><a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2020/08/rollnlock-as-tr-solo-back-up-device.html">Microtrax use and mods</a></div><div><br />For working a section of a route, these days I usually hang when I get to the start of the section I’m working and tie a backup knot below the RnL and then and unlock the RnL Then while working the section all I have to do is rap to the start of the crux again because the RnL is locked-out and freely sliding on the rope. Alternatively, sometimes I don’t use the RnL and just put a maillon on the belay loop and use knots as a back-up making sure that I tie one at the start of the crux section. That also allows quick up-and-down mini laps for repeating a section. (This is probably safer in light of the clam shell construction of the Vergo and the possibility of it exploding apart from jamming against a back-up knot.)</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Routes</b> </div><div>The type of routes that I tested the Vergo on ranged from lower angle highly featured slab, to steep and ledgy, to fairly overhung. I don’t think it is suitable for lower angle slab or pure fiction slab because it’s hard to get enough weight on the bottom of the rope to keep it feeding freely. On these type routes I ended pulling rope till it got much steeper, behaving much more like a Grigri. On these type routes it’s better to use a MicroTrax along with the RnL.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oiPqkEYtqZ8/Xz7P4hCfy2I/AAAAAAAAB-4/GHCe8_EcuAoJpBdEMm5n_fL2JeQjt6EIQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200820_100839.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oiPqkEYtqZ8/Xz7P4hCfy2I/AAAAAAAAB-4/GHCe8_EcuAoJpBdEMm5n_fL2JeQjt6EIQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20200820_100839.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><b>Conclusion</b> </div><div>So there you have it. In summary, if you don’t mind using a rope less than 9.6; don’t need or want to down-climb; don’t mind giving up a slight bit in feed performance; and are OK with the design quirks/quality realizing you’re using it outside of specified parameters...the Vergo is a good all-in-one device at a reasonable size/weight and price point. It is certainly much better than any other handled ABDs (GG, Eddy, Lifeguard, Birdie) for TRS. I now understand why people are using it for an all-in-one TRS solution - it’s not a bad choice IMO, in fact if I didn’t have the Lov2 I’d probably settle on this. However, I will probably stick to my first love (Lov2) because of the quality and slightly better feed. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Device Summary Chart</b></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Etpm5rAh4gU/X1kUJ7OVtFI/AAAAAAAACEM/rHQxocbNaCkvJkIMeDnlNDa016doEYfTwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1000/VergoComparisonChart%2Bcopy%2Bcopy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="591" data-original-width="1000" height="369" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Etpm5rAh4gU/X1kUJ7OVtFI/AAAAAAAACEM/rHQxocbNaCkvJkIMeDnlNDa016doEYfTwCLcBGAsYHQ/w625-h369/VergoComparisonChart%2Bcopy%2Bcopy.jpg" width="625" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2020/06/taz-lov2-for-top-rope-soloing-review.html">Click here for my review of the Taz Lov2</a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;">My quick summary in the other post has now been changed to: </span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 16px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(29, 33, 41); color: #1d2129; font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-kerning: none;"><i>The Vergo can be summed up as: half the weight; half the bulk; half the cost; half the quality</i><i>, and if you don’t mind using 9.5 or smaller ropes you’ll get most of the performance of the Taz Lov2. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></i></span></p><p class="p4" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(29, 33, 41); color: #1d2129; font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 16px;"><br /></p></div><div><br /></div><div><b><span style="color: red;">FINE PRINT</span></b></div><div><span style="color: red;">This review is my experience and opinions based on the equipment/methods specified and on the types of routes I climb. YMMV. The Trango Vergo is not designed or made for TRS and using for that purpose could be dangerous and life threatening. The info contained here is for informational purposes only and if you choose to follow or implement any of the suggestions and methods above, you do so knowing full well that using a device outside of its intended purpose could result in injury or death</span>.</div><div>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Postscript </b>- for regular lead belaying, I’ll never go back to a Grigri unless I’m using a really fat rope. I like the Vergo that much!</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-42440399916553794122020-06-18T13:13:00.012-05:002021-07-23T12:19:07.930-05:00Taz Lov2 for Top Rope Soloing - A Review<span style="font-family: times;"><br />
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The holy grail of TRS devices would be a device that allows me to freely climb with no slack build-up; be able to quickly lock-up when needed; and be able to rap whenever I desire without having to switch devices. Well that device is now here - it’s the TAZ Lov2. It’s not perfect in all these functions but good enough for me that it’s “the answer” for most situations. With the Lov2 the "sum" is greater than the "parts" (individual functions) and yields a device without peers.</span></div>
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I’m well into my second season of using the Lov2 and am quite happy with it’s performance in most situations. I’ll summarize my experience up front and then get more into the details. The Lov2 is the only all-in-one-dedicated-device that ticks all the boxes for TRSing for me. There are other devices that outperform it in a specific function. However there is no other device that combines all the TRS functions into one device and performs at the level of the Lov2 without having to switch devices for rapping. </span></div>
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I think an apt analogy is that it can be considered the Silent Partner of the TRS world. It's high quality and bomber construction inspires confidence. What's the "price" one has to pay for this?! It's big, heavy, and expensive - though none of these prohibitively so. It is specifically designed and tested for doing all the functions required for TRS (ascending, fall arresting, and descending) and does all of these functions at a fairly high level. None of the other devices that I know of meet all these criteria. I’ve used the Revo, various GGs, and the Eddy hoping that they (either in stock or modified form) might be the all-in-one-device of my dreams - but they all have major downsides. I dare say, I'm going out on a limb here, <span face="-apple-system-font">that even as the Silent Partner has developed a cult following in the LRS world, the Lov2 could have the same potential in the TRS world. However, just like the SP, it probably won't happen till it’s no longer available and people are scrambling to try and get one. The caveat here is the remote possibility that a newer device is designed and marketed that will outperform it - however I wouldn’t hold my breath.</span></span></div>
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PROS: <b>Does it all (feeds well/locks-up relatively quick/decent rapping)</b>; great for doing laps; repeatedly working a section of a route; hanging top-outs; down-climbing; high quality/bomb proof construction that inspires confidence</span></div>
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CONS: <b>Weight</b>; <b>size</b>; price, rapping takes a bit of practice to master<br />
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So, that’s the summary of my experience…but the devil is in the details. Read on for all the salacious details of how I set it up; when I would and wouldn't use it; and some tricks I've learned.</span></div>
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<span style="color: red; font-family: times;">The following information is provided based on my experience which is continually evolving. This is not a "how-to" manual. If you use or rely on any of this info, you do so at your own risk. I encourage you to test and retest before committing to a course of action. You may find better set-ups for your own situation (route/rope/experience/degree of risk tolerance). Please let me know of your experiences and share on social media.</span></div>
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The Lov2 is not designed as a TRS device per se but more as a work and recreational device in the rope access and arborist's worlds - which is probably why most climbers have not heard of it. However, it <b>IS</b> designed and tested to fulfill all the three main functions required for TRSing - ascending, fall arresting, and descending. As I discuss it’s various characteristics and function, I’ll try to do so in relation to some of the other major devices on the market that I've used.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: times;"><b>Specs</b>: dynamic ropes: 9.5-11 Static 10-11 (see comparison chart at the end below)</span></div>
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Construction: stainless steel (all rope wear and structural parts), heavy duty aluminum side pates, and plastic handle and rope tension cleat</span></div>
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type of device: Straight through rope path with a tension cleat and pivoting rope pinch lever/arm</span></div>
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Website: <a href="https://taz3d.fr/product/lov2/">https://taz3d.fr/product/lov2/</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: times;"><b>Setup</b>: </span></div>
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Review is based on using a 9.5 Black Diamond rope moderately worn and slightly fuzzy. 130 lb. climber<br />
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The Lov2 works best when held in a vertical position as per user guide. It should be connected to the belay loop with an auto- locking pear or oval 'biner. While the Lov2 could be used without a neck strap/chest harness, it would hang too low on the belay loop and then travel up to the top and through a ~90 deg. pivot when locking up. By using a sling/neck strap/or chest harness it can be held in a vertical position just above my navel which reduces the amount of travel when locking up. The device will still pivot upwards during a fall, but is still low enough to keep it away from my face and neck.</span></div>
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The Lov2 and 'biner can be held vertically by a small 2mm dia. piece of cord threaded through the cover plate and clipped to a neck strap/over the should sling or chest harness. I've tried other cord loop and arrangements for holding the device and 'biner up but saw no advantages. By using this small cord loop permanently attached, I never have to worry about loosing it and it's super easy to clip and unclip.</span></div>
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There are a lot of options to hold the Lov2 vertically: anything from a breakable or elastic neck cord, crossed slings, a double twisted sling, <a href="https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Harnesses/TORSE" target="_blank">Petzl Torse</a>, or full chest harness. I prefer the Torse because it’s fairly minimal, the length is quickly and easily adjustable, and it places the minimal weight felt on the tops of your shoulders. It does not go around your neck even though it may look like it in the photos. It also doesn't constrict one's chest like some set-ups and is never too loose because of it's adjustability.</span></div><span style="font-family: times;">
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Another option for holding the Lov2 and 'biner up is to use this method for improvising a minimalist harness with a sling that won't get pulled up around one's neck. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B92bbBPpqPl/">https://www.instagram.com/p/B92bbBPpqPl/</a><br />
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I also use (though not always) a Petzl Tanga rubber "keeper" cut in half to keep the Lov2 centered on the 'biner. Also, I sometimes use a 6mm cord loop girth hitched around the 'biner and harness waist belt keeper loop. This keeps the Lov2/'biner combo held at the top of the belay loop and keeps it from moving around when climbing, bending over, leaning down, etc.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: times;"><b>Feed:</b> This is usually the prime concern for people who TRS. We all want something that will feeds more or less without friction and without having to attend to it - to get as close as possible to the "free-solo" feeling. This is where the Grigri and Eddy fail as they need constant attention until well up the route and even then I can feel the friction of the feed. The best in class are the Gremlin and Microtrax. Not too far behind those is the Lov2. I use 9.5 dynamic ropes which is the smallest diameter within the specs and allows it to flow freely. With the 9.5 ropes I can get by with with minimal amount of weight attached to the bottom of the rope. usually on clove hitch a shoe or two.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: times;"><b>Lock-up</b>: It’s certainly not the quickest in locking up when weighting the rope or "falling", though it’s not bad either - usually a max of around 4"-10” because the Lov2 needs to pivot up to cause the lever /arm to pinch the rope. I would say it’s on the order of the Rescucender, Roll’nLock and Goblin in it's ability to lock. The best in class is the Microtraxion of course but that’s because of it’s small size and aggressive teeth. However thus far, I’ve never had an issue with the Lov2 locking and after getting use to it’s operation, it inspires confidence. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: times;"><b>Rapping</b>: Again, not the best in class (Grigri) but it isn’t bad. It <b>DOES</b> take a bit of getting use to because the “sweet spot” in the handle movement is smaller than the Grigri. However, it doesn't have the annoying anti-panic feature like the Grigri+ and Eddy. I find those to be a PITA and of dubious value for someone experienced with the device. At the top of a route with 100’ of rope weight below me, it takes significant pressure on the handle to initiate the rapping process. The pressure on the handle lessens the further down the route I rap. Fortunately the handle is fairly large which helps in the initiation and control. Unfortunately the ergonomics of the handle leaves something to be desired. For me it puts my hand and wrist in an uncomfortable position. I would love to see that tweaked in a future version. There’s a couple of techniques that I've used that can be helpful and increase the safety while learning to rap with the Lov2. I’ll cover those a bit further down.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: times;"><span style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">Note: as stated on the TAZ website and video instructions - when using the Lov2 for rappelling, one hand should always be on the handle and one hand below the device on the rope to provide extra friction. NO EXCEPTIONS! </span><span style="color: red;">(some of the photos below don't show both hands because they are posed and my one hand is holding the camera or remote control).</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: times;"><b>Down climbing</b>: With the setup and rope I use, I'm able to down climb when I want or need to. If it has locked up (I've sat on the rope or "fallen") it may take unweighting it and moving it slightly with my hand or to first make a slight upward movement and then slowly down-climb. This may not be possible with a large diameter rope. I've not tested that.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: times;"><b>Back-up: </b>Having a back-up for all soloing devices is highly recommended. I have used two methods:</span></div>
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1) </span><span>A fall rated maillon/quick link attached to the belay loop underneath the Lov2 can be used with back-up knots. </span><span>As I climb I add back-up slip knots occasionally below the million/quick link. If a fall should result and the Lov2 fails for some reason, the knot will jam against the quick link and save my bacon. It’s simple, cheap, and doesn't cause additional friction and is a surefire way to add back-up protection. </span><b>However</b><span> there are two main disadvantages. First, is that I have to interrupt my upward progress and find a no-stress stance to tie the back-up knot. Secondly when descending I need to stop and untie each knot. This seems to me to to defeat one of the main purposes for having the Lov2 in the first place: seamless uninterrupted climbing flow. The next method solves that and I virtually never use this method any more. However if I'm going to be working a crux section of climb I use this method. It's super easy to hang before the crux, tie a knot and then proceed to climb and lower as many times as necessary.</span></span></div>
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2) A Roll’nLock can be c</span><span>onnected below the Lov2 on the belay loop. The RnL flows extremely well up the rope as I climb and I really don’t notice any more friction than without it. Should the Lov2 fail, the RnL will lock. The great advantage of the RnL is that at the top of the route it’s easy to lock open so that it slides freely down the rope as I rap. </span><b>These two devices together provide the smoothest and safest TRSing experience that I know of. </b><span>A Microtrax also works as a backup, however I've found that the lock-out mechanism often slips while rapping and unexpectedly locks on the rop and interrupts the decent. This is extremely annoying . I'll never use the Microtrax as a backup for any of my setups.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><span><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><span><b style="font-family: Times; text-align: left;">Note: Since I originally wrote this, there have been some potential issues found by users when using the RollnLock below another device. Until I can do extensive testing, I've switched back to the MicroTrax with the mods listed here: </b><a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2020/08/rollnlock-as-tr-solo-back-up-device.html" style="font-family: Times; text-align: left;">Microtrax use and mods</a></span></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: times;">Update note: even though I show various possible methods below to add friction to the descent, in the long run I feel that it's best to learn how to use the Lov2 the way it is intended: one hand on the handle and the other hand grabbing the rope below and supplying friction. With practice, it's the easiest and best.</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: times;">1) Several rope wraps and can be put around a leg to add more friction though it might twist the rope. I've only done this a couple times and don't remember if it twisted the rope or not but it's a good simple trick to remember.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: times;">2) If I use a million/quick link and knots for back up, the rope can be left through the quick link and the lower brake hand can pull out and down to add a bit more friction. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: times;">3) The rope can be rethreaded back through the 'biner that is used to attache the Lov2. This has to be done on the side where the gate is. A more elegant solution would be to use a <a href="https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Carabiners-and-quickdraws/FREINO" target="_blank">Petzl Freino ‘biner</a> ($$) that allows the rope to be quickly inserted and doubled back on itself to add friction. If either of these methods are used long term, it could cause the rope wear the aluminum side plate of the Lov2 because it travels a slightly diagonal path. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: times;">4) An oval 'biner can be clipped beneath the Lov2 on the belay loop and a bight of rope pushed through a small maillon/quick link as shown. This will also add friction to the system and help add control. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: times;">5) The lower brake hand can squeeze the rope back against the device pinching it and causing it to bend at a more acute angle and increase the friction. The hand is used to modulate the decent in conjunction with the brake handle. This method is probably best for short descents and/or reworking a section of the route. (Brake lever not shown in action here and I would normally use my right hand for the squeezing function and left hand on the brake handle. However, for clarity I show it here with my left hand). <b>Note: if using this method to rap very far, a leather glove would be necessary! </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: times;"><b>Replaceable parts</b>: the plastic tension cleat that helps provide a slight amount of friction on the rope so that the Lov2 pivots and locks-up, will wear over time However it's replaceable and the TAZ website has instructions for how do that. </span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: times;">When do I NOT use the Lov2?</span></b></div>
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<li style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">On a route where the crux is low on the route (first 15’) and the route is over 50' I don't use the Lov2 because of rope stretch (I use dynamics ropes) and fear of hitting the ground. I also wouldn't use this set-up if I'm climbing friction slab of 60 deg. or less. In both of these situations you want immediate lock up and minimal rope stretch. For these situations, I use a Microtrax and a Spoc (or two of either) on parallel rope strands with both devices mounted together on a wide pear ‘biner. I tie and weight the two strands together. This provides smooth feed and immediate lock up with the least amount of rope stretch whether using a static or dynamic rope. </span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: times;"><span><span>I also would not use the Lov2: </span><b>if</b><span> I wanted the very best climbing experience (the most like free soloing); </span></span><b>AND</b><span><span> </span><b>if</b><span> I have a no-hands top-out (seldom) where I can easily switch devices for rapping; </span></span><b>AND</b><span><span> </span><b>if</b><span> I'm not concerned about getting back down quickly to do another lap working on endurance. In that situation, I use a Camp Goblin (or Kong Backup) on top with a Roll’nLock or Microtrax underneath as a back-up. It is the freest running set-up with the quickest possible lock-up IMO.</span></span></span></li>
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For a similar set-up using the Trango Vergo see my blog post: <a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2020/08/vergo-for-top-rope-soloing.html">Cheap Love?! </a><a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2020/08/vergo-for-top-rope-soloing.html">The Vergo vs Lov2 for TRS</a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com27tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-28662709293802582572020-05-06T12:36:00.001-05:002020-05-06T12:39:03.092-05:00FlipStik v.1 - Part 1<span style="font-family: -apple-system-font; font-size: 12px; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; line-height: 16px;"><b>FlipStik v.1 - Part One </b></span><br />
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A fairly easy to make hangbar that has some unique properties. This blog post probably won't answer every question that one might have, but hopefully will give enough info re the design and building process that the average woodworker can make their own custom version of it.</div>
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<b>GOAL</b> - create a hang bar project that:</div>
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<li>takes up minimal space - both when mounted and when stored</li>
<li>rigidly mounted (vs hanging/suspended types of bars)</li>
<li>aesthetically pleasing</li>
<li>functional</li>
<li>doorway mounted on expandable pull-up bar (see discussion in Part 2)</li>
<li>can be left up and not interfere with the function of the door or can be easily removed and stored behind the door</li>
<li>is 'universal' in that it isn't dependent upon doorway size</li>
<li>mounts as high as possible for a doorway type pull-up bar</li>
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<b>PARTS NEEDED:</b></div>
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The bar is created out of three pieces of wood obtained at my local Lowes.com. It could also be routed or CNC machined out of a single piece of 1.5” x 3.75” x 36” piece of poplar (or other hardwood) if you have the tools and know-how.</div>
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2 pcs- 1.5” x 36” square hardwood pcs</div>
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1 pcs - .75” x 1.5 x 36” hardwood piece</div>
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2 pcs - 1/2" x 3-14" x 4-1/4" hardwood plywood for J-hook backing/spacer plate (or 1 pcs 1/2" x 3-1/4" x 30" (see discussion in Part 2)</div>
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J-hooks and screws: <a href="https://www.zoro.com/monroe-pmp-utility-hook-steel-1-78-in-4hdw6/i/G0933931/">https://www.zoro.com/monroe-pmp-utility-hook-steel-1-78-in-4hdw6/i/G0933931/</a> (400 lb capacity)</div>
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3 - 3” #10 wood screws</div>
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backing plate screws</div>
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1-3/4” wood screws</div>
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1-1/4” wood screws</div>
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closed cell foam padding: 1/8”-1/4” depending upon doorway and doorway trim profile (craftstore foam)</div>
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expandable doorway pull-up bar (ones with end-cups is recommended if you are heavier than 150 lb)</div>
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<b>TOOLS USED</b>: can be created with a wide variety of tools from simple hand tools to router and jig. Tools I used in the project: drill press, router table and various router bits, belt sander, hand sand stick</div>
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<b>DESIGN:</b> </div>
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<li>based on my <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B6iyc5vjJoy/" target="_blank">LipStik design</a> without the folding legs - <b>BUT</b> - it is flippable which gives twice as many edges (8 instead of 4) for the same number of pockets/steps and space (it’s a whole other discussion whether more edges are necessary or better for effective training)</li>
<li>It is designed to be mounted on expandable doorway pull-up bar. Bar can be left up and door is still functional. </li>
<li>3-piece design that allows working on individual pieces before being assembled</li>
<li>uses a “stepped finger stop" design that allows user to easily customize for their particular needs</li>
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<b>MAJOR STEPS IN MAKING THE FLIPSTIK</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-htNXLka5E9M/XrK6IXpf8NI/AAAAAAAABng/X-7d4A4qF4wgpt7lX_N_lVLPMxxSrpaZwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20200408_163421.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="687" data-original-width="1395" height="195" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-htNXLka5E9M/XrK6IXpf8NI/AAAAAAAABng/X-7d4A4qF4wgpt7lX_N_lVLPMxxSrpaZwCEwYBhgL/s400/IMG_20200408_163421.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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1) cut boards to correct dimensions (I was able to buy the correct dimensioned boards at Lowes.com)</div>
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2) layout and cut the “steps” in the center board</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QNeoo1iX01g/XrK6Ir0ELpI/AAAAAAAABno/4qjDYvFOGxUXB-L-vE0RCHjRGiH2NBVDwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20200408_163454.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="870" data-original-width="1481" height="233" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QNeoo1iX01g/XrK6Ir0ELpI/AAAAAAAABno/4qjDYvFOGxUXB-L-vE0RCHjRGiH2NBVDwCEwYBhgL/s400/IMG_20200408_163454.jpg" width="400" /></a>3) layout cut lines and remove the cutaway on bottom board </div>
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4) put radius on pocket edges of both top and bottom rails (easier to do this before assembled (see discussion below)<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hsLiiWfZ4CI/XrL0bMzx2zI/AAAAAAAABsE/5HF50VNP7c46j7jd79yQ3_radYNUK6LYgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20200502_150857.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1254" data-original-width="1600" height="312" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hsLiiWfZ4CI/XrL0bMzx2zI/AAAAAAAABsE/5HF50VNP7c46j7jd79yQ3_radYNUK6LYgCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/IMG_20200502_150857.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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5) <span style="font-family: -apple-system-font;">glue/clamp/screw the three boards tog</span><span style="font-family: -apple-system-font;">ether (no photo)</span><br />
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6) radius the top top rail to 1.5” diameter for warm-up/pull-up bar.</div>
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7) round front edge of bottom rail<br />
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8) monos - if desired - drill 3/4” hole 30mm deep (or 13/16” - 7/8” depending upon how fat your fingers are and how much side support you want for your fingers). Generously chamfer the edge of mono. Notice the screws holding the three pieces together when I glued it that didn't show up in the other photos.<br />
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<b><a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2020/05/flipstik-v1-part-2.html" target="_blank">See Part 2</a></b> for finishing the bar including mounting the J-hooks, what pull-up bar is best, and other finishing details.<br />
<b><a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2020/05/flipstik-v1-part-3.html" target="_blank">See Part 3</a></b> for a suggested French cleat version of this bar.<br />
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<b>NOTES AND DISCUSSION</b><br />
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Edge radius discussion - some boards have a constant edge radius no matter size the edge depth (Eva Perez’s Transgression and Progression boards). While others, use a progressive edge radius (the larger the edge, the larger the edge radius) that generally yields more comfort but less accuracy when comparing edge sizes across boards. In this board I've used progressive radius using round-over router bits - which needs to be done before the board is assembled. If I were to do it over again, I'd use one constant radius for the top rail, and a smaller radius one for the bottom rails (smaller edges)</div>
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How many edges/pockets on a hangboard? Edge depths: often the general consensus is the more edges/pockets the better but it depends upon your preference in relation to how you train and your general finger fitness. I think training can be done effectively with as little as three. However for some training protocols it is helpful to have more edges.</div>
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Pockets vs non-pockets: true pockets are unnecessary in my opinion. Just limit the number of fingers on any particular edge to achieve the same thing. Sides of pockets just help you "cheat" and take up space. I find it mildly humorous to see all the different pockets on some commercial boards. The one exception might be the mono. It can put a lot of stress on the single finger/joint on a normal edge -especially when first starting to train monos. So it can be important to provide as much support as possible through the sidewalls of a mono if you intend to train monos..</div>
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Flippable vs non-flippable: this same basic design could be used in a non-flippable board (like my LipStik) that would have only 4 edge sizes and could be permanently mounted above a doorway resting on the doorway trim with several screws into studs, OR, if using a pull-up bar, just use one set of J-hooks.</div>
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Asymmetrical vs symmetrical edge spacing: Many hang boards in the past were symmetrical - that is - have the same edge spacing mirrored from the center line of the board. However that causes unnatural hand spacing in relation to your shoulders - from scrunched to uncomfortably wide. More functional and comfortable in my option is the asymmetrical spacing that allows constant spacing between the hands and shoulders. This bar is designed to have a constant spacing of 18”.</div>
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<b>The following are some suggested alternative edge sequences. </b>This is the versatility of using a method like this for creating a hang bar.</div>
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<b>Bar shown above is a super wide ratio bar for beginning climbers to moderately advanced climbers </b></div>
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[12mm top/bottom rail difference with 3mm steps] </div>
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normal: 30 / 27 / 24 / 21</div>
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flipped: 18 / 15 / 12 / 9 </div>
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<div>
<b>general wide ratio for beginning to hard-core</b><br />
[10mm top/bottom rail difference with 2.5mm steps] </div>
<div>
normal: 25 / 22.5 / 20 / 17.5</div>
<div>
flipped: 15 / 12.5 / 10 / 7.5 </div>
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<div>
<b>beginning to moderate climbers </b>(this is the same as Eva Perez’s Progression board)</div>
<div>
[8mm top/bottom rail difference. 2mm steps] </div>
<div>
normal: 24 / 22 / 20 / 18</div>
<div>
flipped: 16 / 14 / 12 / 10 </div>
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<div>
<b>moderate to hard-core climbers, close ratio</b></div>
<div>
[8mm top/bottom rail difference. 2mm steps]</div>
<div>
normal: 20 / 18 / 16 / 14</div>
<div>
flipped: 12 / 10 / 8 / 6 </div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-50156910054677915102020-05-06T12:02:00.001-05:002020-05-20T13:36:42.794-05:00FlipStik v.1 - Part 2<div style="font-family: -apple-system-font; font-size: 12px;">
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The FlipStik is based on a standard expandable doorway pull-up bar. They can be had from $19-$60.<br />
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<span style="color: red;">Caution: this whole system depends upon your doorway framing being solid. If your doorway does not have structural integrity, then it would probably be better to not use this method of mounting but adapt it to the other major type of doorway pull-up bar where it hangs on the trip lip and then cams against the front of the doorway. I have not adapted this bar yet for that type of pull-up bar so you are on your own...</span><br />
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The main thing is that if you way over 140 lb, I'd recommend getting one that comes with steel cups that can be screwed into the doorway and help hold the bar in place. This makes it more secure. Mine is rated to 300 lb. if mounted with the steel cups. I didn't use them because I weigh 130 lb. and the doorway is strong enough that I could just expand the bar into place and it was enough. The disadvantage of using the steel cups on the ends to hold the bar is that there will be 3-4 small screw holes on either side that you'll have to fill if you want to permanently take it down.<br />
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Bar without mounting cups<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: small;">Steps for adding the pull-up bar mounts</span></b></h3>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">1) Cut J-hook backing plates out of 1/2" ply or 1/2" poplar stock</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">2) glue and screw on backing plate(s) for hooks on back of bar</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">3) screw on hooks - I spaced the hooks so they would be on the outer smaller diameter part of the bar and space the hooks about 1/2" a part to give more strength to the screws in the wood. You'll need to use a shorter screw than the ones that come with it for the circled location. The board is thinner at that location because of the "cut" on the other </span><span style="font-size: xx-small;">side of that board.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">4) add doorway padding and adjust for doorway/bar fit. You want bar to lie flat again the molding and not tilt out or in.</span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-51253967436211913562017-11-01T11:10:00.002-05:002017-11-01T11:10:22.957-05:00The SqueezeBox - An Adjustable Crack Hangboard<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The following project gives the basic steps I used in creating the Squeeze Box, an adjustable crack hangboard. Here are some of it's features:<br />
<ol>
<li>adjustable up to OW (hand-fist stack)</li>
<li>hangs from one or two suspension points</li>
<li>option of mounting a hangboard or holds on the two outside surfaces</li>
<li>can be hung vertical or horizontal</li>
<li>adjustable for parallel, incut or flared crack</li>
<li>angle of board can be adjusted to make crack/holds easier or harder.</li>
<li>fairly reasonable cost to build</li>
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The board is based on a set of Jorgensen #1 wood clamps that I obtained on Ebay. I think I paid around $16 for the set. Since I wanted the board width to be 8", the ends of the clamps were cut off. For my hands 8" is plenty wide, though they could be left full size.</div>
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In order to get the clamps apart (normally they are designed so they can't be disassembled), approximately 3/8"-1/2" is cut off the end of one of the threaded rods of each clamp. This allows the clamps to be disassembled when fully unscrewed. The clamps need to be disassembled in order to attach to the wood plates.</div>
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For the wood plates I used two layers of 3/4" plywood glued and screwed together. This also allows T-nuts to be added should you desire to use bolt-on holds. Overall dimensions the plates are 8" x 25". The width should be adjusted to fit the hangboard, if you plan on attaching one. I would suggest the ideal size could range between 24"-27". One half of each plate is 3" shorter to make a lap joint where the wood clamps are attached. Notice the holes drilled for the wood clamp threaded rods to pass through. <span style="color: red;">(Note: 2 x 10 pine lumber [1 1/2" x 9 1/4" actual size] could be used instead of plywood, however you'd need a table saw and dado blade to cut the lap joint notches on the end of the plates.)</span></div>
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The two halves of peach plate are then screwed and glued together, making sure that the screws are screwed from the outside so the inside surfaces of the crack remain smooth. Shown below are both finished plates (one of the plates has the Continuum Board attached (discussed in a prior blog post).</div>
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This shows the wooden clamps attached with glue and two large wood screws.<br />
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Clamps reassembled to form the basic Squeeze Box frame. Notice also the bottom inside edges of the crack were rounded for comfort</div>
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A 10' strap from Strampworks.com was used to provide the sling. The strap was cut as shown below and ends were doubled and a screw hole burned through both layers with a hot nail. They were then attached with 1 1/2" long wood screws with heavy 1" washers. The angle of hangboard is adjusted by changing the hang loop length on the quick-release buckle side.</div>
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Finished Squeeze Box hangboard. It can be hung from one or two points. For a Horizontal mount, two suspension points provides more stability. For vertical orientation, it is hung from a single suspension point.<br />
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<span style="color: red;">Note: The inside crack surface was left as natural wood. Texture could be added via fine grit sandpaper or a textured paint. However, caution should be used as if intensive training is done on it, hands could easily be abraded. I've chosen to use it with tape or crack gloves.</span></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-11161713001767945402017-02-04T22:53:00.000-05:002017-02-04T15:26:10.123-05:006GRIPS: The Simplest, Most Versatile Training Grips You've Never Seen<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bUi74xaZJFQ/WJO0ptYaA2I/AAAAAAAABV8/RG24ObEv4TEvIRvjgEsqtXm4sxka74wJQCLcB/s1600/For%2BInstagram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bUi74xaZJFQ/WJO0ptYaA2I/AAAAAAAABV8/RG24ObEv4TEvIRvjgEsqtXm4sxka74wJQCLcB/s640/For%2BInstagram.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">When I started up SICgrips one of my main observations was that most hangboards and training grips devoted an inordinate amount of space for edges/pockets/crimps. Whether a pocket, a 1-2 joint edge, or crimp, they are all basically the same grip/hand position. This is fine if you mainly do face climbs with edges, but it leaves out many other grip positions that most climbers encounter. If one were to just use one edge that could serve multiple uses, then the grips could include other hand positions and would provide a more balanced and functional training tool. In addition if you are able to adjust them around all three axis (vertical, horizontal and rotational), you would have a super versatile set of training grips that are easy on the joints. This is one of the main design principles behind our </span><a href="http://sicgrips.com/gstring_pros.html" target="_blank">Gstring PROs</a> and <a href="http://sicgrips.com/pocket_rocks.html" target="_blank">Pocket Rock</a><span style="font-size: small;"> training grips.</span></div>
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: x-large; font-weight: normal;">6</span>GRIPS offer the following grip positions:</h3>
<ol>
<li>half-hand sloper (4.5" diameter)</li>
<li>wide pinch </li>
<li>medium pinch</li>
<li>large rounded jug</li>
<li>flat or sloping edge (half-hand, 2nd joint, or first joint)/variable depth crimp</li>
<li>variable difficulty round/sloper crimp</li>
</ol>
Grips can also be lowered and used for suspended push-ups or dips/press-ups.<br />
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While they are not as sexy as our Gstring PROs or Pocket Rocks, these grips are simple, versatile, cheap to make, compact, and lightweight (18 oz.), If all the materials are gathered ahead of time, they could be made in an afternoon and, depending upon materials that you may already have, they can be made for as little as $10. However, if you have to go out and buy everything, they'll cost considerably more, though you'll end up with materials to make at least two or more sets because of the minimum quantity most hardware stores sell.</div>
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We have strayed somewhat from one of our guiding principles in our last two DYI projects: <a href="http://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2015/11/how-to-make-continuum-hangboard.html" target="_blank">Continuum Board</a> and <a href="http://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2016/11/gbar-do-it-yourself-hang-bar-part-1.html" target="_blank">gBar</a>. However this current project is a return to our roots and offers the DIYer a very simple and versatile set of grips with minimal cost, time and number of tools.</div>
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<h3>
<b>Materials:</b></h3>
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<ul>
<li>1/2" x 6" x 4.5" piece of poplar plank for hardwood plywood</li>
<li>6" piece of 4" dia. PVC (2' is usually the minimum quantity you can buy)</li>
<li>3/4" half-round x 6" x 2 pieces hardwood (oak or poplar - hardware stores frequently sell this as trim and is sold in 8 foot lengths)</li>
<li>5mm x 10' accessory cord</li>
<li>2 sheets of 320 grit sheet sandpaper or a roll of 4.5" wide PDA (pressure sensitive adhesive) sandpaper</li>
<li>contact cement if not using PSA sandpaper</li>
<li>24 - #4 1" wood screws</li>
<li>epoxy</li>
</ul>
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<h3>
<b>Tools</b>:</h3>
<ul>
<li>drill</li>
<li>hand saw (I used a Japanese pull saw but a table saw is even better if you have access to one)</li>
<li>screw driver</li>
</ul>
<h3>
<b>Assembly Notes</b>:</h3>
The grips shown are 6" wide - you can modify the width to suite the size of your hands.<br />
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4.5" wide PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive 320 sandpaper is what I used. You could also use sheet sandpaper and contact cement. With sheet sandpaper, it could go the whole width of the grip, however the cord will rub on it and wear faster. <span style="color: red;">Update: I've actually ended up removing the sandpaper. I like it better without. I've roughed up the wood and PVC with 80 grit sandpaper, then used a rosin bag along with chalk to increase friction. Very easy on skin!</span></div>
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4 wood screws were used to hold the PVC to the 1/2" wood. I used epoxy with rubber bands to hold in place and once it was set a bit (5 minutes) I drilled the holes and put the screws in. Make sure to counter sink the hole so that the screw heads will fit flush.</div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
If cutting the 1/2" wood on a table saw, use a 5 deg. blade tilt to help match it to the inside diameter of the PVC pipe. Otherwise if you use a hand saw, slightly sand the edges to match the curve on the inside diameter of the PVC.</div>
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Three wood screws were used to hold the 1/2 round to the grip and they were put in at an angle. This was done so they didn't come through the 1/2" wood and to make sure the screw head were away from the primary surface where the fingers would be contacting it.</div>
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Round, the edge of the PVC on the side away from the crimp to a radius that feels comfortable to your fingers. For me this was somewhere around a 1/4"r to 5/16"r.</div>
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If using standard 5mm accessory cord to string it, drill 3/16" holes on the side of the grip for the knots. On the other side of the grip where the cord will slide through for adjustment, drill 1/4" or 5/16" holds so that the cord will fit through easier and will make moving grip positions easier.</div>
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<h3>
<b>Additional Notes:</b></h3>
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<ul>
<li><div style="text-align: justify;">
Precise control over the width of the flat edge crimp is obtained by cutting two extra pieces of the 3/4" half-round, each 1/2" wider than the width of your grip to create an adjustable finger stop. They can be adjusted setting to pencil lines at 1/8"intervals. Use a rubber band around the ends to hold in place and slide to the desired crimp depth. When not in use they can either be removed or stored out of the way on the inside of the grip.</div>
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</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">optional girth or prusik loop for doorway use while traveling. See our <a href="http://sicgrips.com/Mounting-PR.html" target="_blank">Pocket Rocks page</a> for more info.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">For a way to easily reset the grips back to a previous position/angle, use marks or dental floss as shown <a href="http://sicgrips.com/Helpful_Tips-PR.html" target="_blank">here</a>.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">If you desire to have a bar instead of individual grips, you can create one 18" long grip. This means you'd only have to adjust the cords once instead of for each individual grip and it's also a bit simpler to make. However the disadvantage is that it will weight about 40% more and you will not be able to rotate the grips around the vertical axis for comfort. If you have elbow issues using individual grips will allow you to find a more comfortable angle and put less stress on your elbows.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">To train a specific grip type, drill a hole and mount a T-nut in the center of each grip. This gives the option of mounting a small-medium size wall hold. It's easiest to add the T-nut before the PVC and wood are screwed together, though it can still be added after they are finished.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">It's possible to make Simple Grips with the RipCord easy adjustment system of the Gstring PROs. However this will increase their cost; they will hang 3 inches lower; weigh 8 oz. more; and it will increase the complexity of making them. If interested, see this <a href="http://sicgrips.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2014-04-13T05:49:00-07:00&max-results=10" target="_blank">blog post</a> for the basics of how to do this. </li>
</ul>
<h3>
<b>Using</b></h3>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hxn_FWKTZo0/WIzSUY58vWI/AAAAAAAABTY/mqEeZJlMxDo0w8QZrMaedBV4RaVmZcWqwCLcB/s1600/DSCF4598-animation.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hxn_FWKTZo0/WIzSUY58vWI/AAAAAAAABTY/mqEeZJlMxDo0w8QZrMaedBV4RaVmZcWqwCLcB/s320/DSCF4598-animation.gif" width="320" /></a></div>
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<ul>
<li style="text-align: justify;">mount or hang the same has for our <a href="http://sicgrips.com/Mounting-PR.html" target="_blank">Pocket Rocks</a> or <a href="http://sicgrips.com/permanent.html" target="_blank">Gstrings</a></li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Different sets of grip positions are accessed by either sliding cord to change the relative size of each loop, or by flipping cords to the other side of the grips (see the first photo at top of blog).<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Reverse your hand hand positions (palms facing you) to train for underclings</li>
</ul>
<ul>
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<ul>
</ul>
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These grips offer most everything a normal hangboard, hangbar, or commercial training grips offer. About the only thing they don't cover are cracks which no commercial hangboard yet covers. We still hope to produce our prototype <a href="https://www.facebook.com/crackrack/" target="_blank">Crack Rack</a> as a commercial product and our next two DYI projects (the <i>SqueezeBox</i> and <i>GrooveTube</i>) will offer crack training. Stay tuned.</div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-89541212210697016392017-01-30T13:51:00.000-05:002017-06-17T14:22:24.504-05:00gBar: A Do-It-Yourself Hang-Bar - Part 3<div style="text-align: justify;">
I'm finally getting around to finishing up the series on making the gBar. Hopefully if you've actually constructed one you've figured out a sling system to hang and be able to adjust it. However I'll finish out the series showing two methods for how I've done it. I'm sure there are other ways also. The sling loops needs to be adjustable and they need to be able to be flipped to the other side in order access all the grip positions that the bar is capable of. <span style="color: red;">Note: both these methods are slightly different than the original photos posted.</span></div>
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The first slinging method is fairly simple but not quite as aesthetic and functionally not quite as good. In this method, you'll drill four holes through the bar as shown below. On one side the holes are 5/16" and on the other 3/16". The reason for this is to make the adjustment a bit easier on the side with the larger holes, while helping to secure the cord on the side with the knots so the cord doesn't slide around. The knots should be tied on the side with the smaller holes.</div>
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The second method, though a bit more complex, ends up being a bit nicer in appearance because there are no external knots and it's a bit easier to adjust because of the cord path. The 5/16" holes on one end are drilled as shown and consist of two holes drilled so that the cord path makes approximately a 45 deg. bend. The 3/16" holes are drilled on the other end. Then perpendicular to the cord path two countersunk 1/16" holes for 1" #6 wood screws. Instead of the knots securing the end, the ends are inserted into their respective holed and then secured with the wood screws giving a nice clean finish.</div>
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It's possible to use 6mm cord instead of 5mm but all holes will need to be increased slightly in size.<br />
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When using the gBar the different grip types are accessed by changing the relative size of the hang loops by sliding the cord though the bar on the side where it it free to slide. Also for some of the grip positions you'll need to flip the cords to the other side of the bar.<br />
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Here's a summary of the grips available on the gBar the position/angle the bar needs to be adjust to:<br />
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Any of the grip positions can be made harder or easier by adjusting the sling slightly to change the hang angle.<br />
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<h4>
<b><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Update</span></b></h4>
The gBar can also be made with the RipCord quick release adjustment system used by the Gstring PROs. This would allow you to quickly adjust the angle of the bar/type of grip without having to remove the bar from its mount.<br />
<br />
You will need 2 x 3 feet pieces of 5mm accessory cord. More if you want it to hang lower. Use the screw method for securing the ends of the cord as described above. For the rest of the instructions, follow steps #8-19 from our previous post on the <a href="https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2015-03-07T04:57:00-08:00&max-results=10" target="_blank">Quick Release system</a>. Thread both rings onto both cords together instead of crossing them as described.<br />
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The result should end up looking like this:<br />
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To access all the grips positions, for some you will need to flips the bottom cords around the ends while it is hanging.<br />
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<h4>
<b><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Update #2</span></b></h4>
I am now experimenting with making them as follows. It includes all the grip positions of the original but makes the three-finger pockets into two-finger pockets (duos) and adds monos. The monos are drilled 1.5" deep and since it's positioned to take advantage of the 5/8" rounded crimper, it gives it a "comfort" edge and increase the depth slightly. The bar is now a full 18" wide compared to the shorter 15" bar above. Notice the slight change in position of the top cord holes to make it slightly more functional.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l4hxvMb31s8/WUV7GMxufrI/AAAAAAAABX8/LwDFMGF78tANgjqY1fU86m82rOee_UoqgCLcBGAs/s1600/gBar-shaded3b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="398" data-original-width="1023" height="248" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l4hxvMb31s8/WUV7GMxufrI/AAAAAAAABX8/LwDFMGF78tANgjqY1fU86m82rOee_UoqgCLcBGAs/s640/gBar-shaded3b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This same layout could be further modified by adding a one-arm mono and one-arm duo in the center of the board if you're strong enough to train train them. That's above my "pay grade" so I'll leave it to you beasts out there to add those.<br />
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If you have any questions, feel free to ask.<br />
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The next do-it-yourself project will be a set of grips that are super simple and cheap to make out of plywood and PVC pipe.<br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-64278915969520831152016-11-27T15:24:00.000-05:002016-11-29T09:18:50.807-05:00gBar: A Do-It-Yourself Hang-Bar - Part 2<div style="text-align: justify;">
Materials: I used poplar wood throughout obtained at a local hardware store. 3/4" birch plywood could be used instead of the solid 3/4" poplar plank.</div>
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<span style="color: red;">Note: the width of the finger slots/holes/pockets are all 3/4". If you have large fingers, you may want to increase their size to 7/8" or 1" to fit your fingers. If you use a larger size , make sure you increase the overall width of the board accordingly.</span></div>
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Dowels were bought from local hardware store and cut in half. To do this you need a table or band saw. It's also possible cut the 2" dia. dowel in half with a hand saw but that would be tricky. Here is a link to a <a href="http://i.stack.imgur.com/jpA4K.jpg" target="_blank">simple jig</a> that can be used to safely cut the dowels in half length-wise on a table saw. A Google search will yield other jigs for use with a bandsaw.</div>
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If you don't have access to a table or band saw it's possible to buy half-rounds from various wood suppliers. The 3/4" half-rounds can often be obtain in the molding/trim section of a large hardware store.</div>
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All dimensions for constructing the gBar are listed (or can be inferred from) on the dimensioned drawing in the previous post.</div>
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Here is the step-by-step process:<br />
<ol>
<li>Cut the 3/4" x 3.5" x 18" base board of the bar</li>
<li>Cut the three dowels to 18" in length then slice/cut in half</li>
<li>Round one edge of the base board to 1/2" radius. I used a router for this but could be done easily by hand with a file/rasp/plane/ or sandpaper.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<li style="text-align: justify;">Layout with pencil on the board where the finger slots and dowels will go making sure that the rounded edge (of step #3 above) is on the opposite side of where the 3/4" half-round dowel will go.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Cut the finger slots: I used a drill press to cut these holes by using a fence and repeatedly drilling a series of holes until the desired length of each finger slot is obtained. This is slow and tedious but if done carefully can yield good finger slot. You could also use a plunge router which be easier and give a nicely finished slot. If you don't have a router or drill press, you could use a hand drill to drill a 3/4" hole at each end of each finger slot. Then use a reciprocating saw or hand coping saw to cut out the material between the holes.</li>
<li style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: justify;">
Radius the bottom edge of the finger slots that will be on the back side of the board. I used a 1/4" radius router bit but this can easily be done by hand. The goal is to get a radius that will be comfortable on your fingers when hanging. The top part of the finger pocket will be be radiused by the 5/8" dowel</div>
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Attach the 2" half-round dowel to the base board. Use 3 #6 1-1/2" wood screws and wood glue. I used wood clamps to hold in position while I pre-drilled slightly smaller holes for the wood screws. If you measured and cut correctly, the edge of the 2" half-round should line up with the edge of the finger slot and the edge of the board.</div>
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<li style="text-align: justify;">Do the same with the 3/4" half round dowel except use 3 - #6 x 1" wood screws. This should line up with the other edge of the finger slot and the other edge of the board.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Attach the 5/8" half-round on the back side of the board. I did this with the 6 - 3d 1-1/4" finish nails and glue.</li>
<li><div style="text-align: justify;">
This photo show optional holes drilled in the finger pockets to increase the depth for monos by 1/2"-3/4" more. It also shows optional 1/4" hole drilled in the middle of the finger pocket to help facilitate pushing the shims out from the other side if they are used.</div>
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Shims can easily be made by trimming 3/4" craft sticks/tongue depressors with scissors and then smoothing with sandpaper. In use, this allows you to increase the difficultly by 1mm at a time. They can also be created with non-corrogated cardboard. Layers can be glued together to make the thickness desired or they can be used with double-sided cellophane tape to adjust on the fly...or if they are trimmed carefully they can have a press fit and then pushed from the other side via the optional access holes shown above.</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oTjsx6ARK9c/WDs6v0Jcy8I/AAAAAAAABNs/mqs4LAwHockigVUl7CoSfIiRZG9ssmCiwCEw/s1600/Blog%25232-wShims.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oTjsx6ARK9c/WDs6v0Jcy8I/AAAAAAAABNs/mqs4LAwHockigVUl7CoSfIiRZG9ssmCiwCEw/s640/Blog%25232-wShims.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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All packed and ready to go in my carry-on...</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FvzjI_mepRE/WDtVq8_0vEI/AAAAAAAABOM/EQO6pQl8Y2AG_Dbhq0lVhumfHu-kxRVYQCLcB/s1600/gBar-suitcase.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="456" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FvzjI_mepRE/WDtVq8_0vEI/AAAAAAAABOM/EQO6pQl8Y2AG_Dbhq0lVhumfHu-kxRVYQCLcB/s640/gBar-suitcase.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next blog I'll cover two different ways to sling and adjust the bar.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-21475053676914735902016-11-01T08:09:00.001-05:002016-11-02T16:10:09.610-05:00gBar: A Do-It-Yourself Hang-Bar - Part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This will be four-part series that gives an overview of how to make the gBar portable training bar. It is an incredibly versatile hang bar that utilizes both sides of the board, has adjustable 360 degree angle around the horizontal axis, and hangs from a single point. It can be made for as little as $15, depending upon materials you have on hand, tools available, and your skill level. It combines some of the features we've used on our Gstrings, Pocket Rocks and Contiuum Boards and offers the following grip positions: </div>
<ul>
<li>jug</li>
<li>half hand flat edge or flat sloper</li>
<li>2" finger sloper</li>
<li>3/4" edge (adjustable depth via shims)</li>
<li>1/2" edge (adjustable depth via shims)</li>
<li>1" - comfort edged 1/2/3 finger pocket</li>
<li>1.7" - comfort edged 1/2/3 finger pocket </li>
<li>5/8" rounded crimp sloper</li>
<li>3/4" rounded crimp sloper</li>
<li>1/2" and 3/4" flat edges can be modified for depth using shims to make the edges as small as desired.</li>
</ul>
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The rounded crimps & slopers can be made easier or harder by changing the angle of the bar. This changes the surface contact area of the fingers on the grip. In the same way, edges, pockets and the flat sloper can also be made easier or harder.</div>
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The bar is 3.5" x 18" and weighs ~1.5 lb. depending upon what type of wood you use and the density of it. The bar can easily be modified to suit your needs and desires. This is what works for me and a starting point for your creativity!<br />
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There are a number of portable training bars/boards on the market already. If you don't have the skills to make one, then check these out...or our Gstring or Pocket Rock climbing grips:</div>
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<div style="border-bottom-left-radius: 0px; border-bottom-right-radius: 0px; border-top-left-radius: 0px; border-top-right-radius: 0px; box-sizing: content-box; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 1em;">
<a href="http://pucseries.com/en/shop/il-domani/" rel="noopener" style="-webkit-transition: color 200ms ease-out; border-bottom-left-radius: 0px; border-bottom-right-radius: 0px; border-top-left-radius: 0px; border-top-right-radius: 0px; box-sizing: content-box; color: #20627f; line-height: normal; outline: none; transition: color 200ms ease-out; word-break: break-word;" target="_blank">http://pucseries.com/en/shop/il-domani/</a></div>
<div style="border-bottom-left-radius: 0px; border-bottom-right-radius: 0px; border-top-left-radius: 0px; border-top-right-radius: 0px; box-sizing: content-box; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 1em;">
<a href="http://www.tensionclimbing.com/hangboards/flash-board" rel="noopener" style="-webkit-transition: color 200ms ease-out; border-bottom-left-radius: 0px; border-bottom-right-radius: 0px; border-top-left-radius: 0px; border-top-right-radius: 0px; box-sizing: content-box; color: #20627f; line-height: normal; outline: none; transition: color 200ms ease-out; word-break: break-word;" target="_blank">http://www.tensionclimbing.com/hangboards/flash-board</a></div>
<div style="border-bottom-left-radius: 0px; border-bottom-right-radius: 0px; border-top-left-radius: 0px; border-top-right-radius: 0px; box-sizing: content-box; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 1em;">
<a href="https://awesomewoodys.com/collections/all/products/cliffboard" rel="noopener" style="-webkit-transition: color 200ms ease-out; border-bottom-left-radius: 0px; border-bottom-right-radius: 0px; border-top-left-radius: 0px; border-top-right-radius: 0px; box-sizing: content-box; color: #20627f; line-height: normal; outline: none; transition: color 200ms ease-out; word-break: break-word;" target="_blank">https://awesomewoodys.com/collections/all/products/cliffboard</a></div>
<div style="border-bottom-left-radius: 0px; border-bottom-right-radius: 0px; border-top-left-radius: 0px; border-top-right-radius: 0px; box-sizing: content-box; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 1em;">
<a href="http://www.problemsolver.rocks/hanzo-hangboard" rel="noopener" style="-webkit-transition: color 200ms ease-out; border-bottom-left-radius: 0px; border-bottom-right-radius: 0px; border-top-left-radius: 0px; border-top-right-radius: 0px; box-sizing: content-box; color: #20627f; line-height: normal; outline: none; transition: color 200ms ease-out; word-break: break-word;" target="_blank">http://www.problemsolver.rocks/hanzo-hangboard</a></div>
<div style="border-bottom-left-radius: 0px; border-bottom-right-radius: 0px; border-top-left-radius: 0px; border-top-right-radius: 0px; box-sizing: content-box; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 1em;">
<a href="http://www.fingerschinder.com/en/" rel="noopener" style="-webkit-transition: color 200ms ease-out; border-bottom-left-radius: 0px; border-bottom-right-radius: 0px; border-top-left-radius: 0px; border-top-right-radius: 0px; box-sizing: content-box; color: #20627f; line-height: normal; outline: none; transition: color 200ms ease-out; word-break: break-word;" target="_blank">http://www.fingerschinder.com/en/</a></div>
<div style="border-bottom-left-radius: 0px; border-bottom-right-radius: 0px; border-top-left-radius: 0px; border-top-right-radius: 0px; box-sizing: content-box; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 1em;">
<a href="http://crusherholds.co.uk/portable-fingerboards-hangboards/crusher-mission-portable-hangboard-fingerboard" rel="noopener" style="-webkit-transition: color 200ms ease-out; border-bottom-left-radius: 0px; border-bottom-right-radius: 0px; border-top-left-radius: 0px; border-top-right-radius: 0px; box-sizing: content-box; color: #20627f; line-height: normal; outline: none; transition: color 200ms ease-out; word-break: break-word;" target="_blank">http://crusherholds.co.uk/portable-fingerboards-hangboards/crusher-mission-portable-hangboard-fingerboard</a><br />
<br /></div>
<div style="border-bottom-left-radius: 0px; border-bottom-right-radius: 0px; border-top-left-radius: 0px; border-top-right-radius: 0px; box-sizing: content-box; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 1em;">
An important caveat: <span style="color: red;">If you have shoulder or elbow problems or have had tendonitis, consider using individual grips that can rotate around the vertical axis</span>. This allows more flexibility in elbow/shoulder position than a bar/board type of device where both hands are always in the same plane. If you are training with repeaters, use additional weight, or do long intensive training sessions, it can lead to repetitive stress type of injuries. If you think this is, or could be an issue for you, check out our grips at <a href="http://sic.grips.com/">sic.grips.com</a> - they are infinitely adjustable in all planes and allow the most comfort in training.</div>
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This first blog post will give an overview; dimensions, and materials. The second blog post will give basic construction advice; the third post will describe different ways of slinging it; and the final post will give pointers on how to use it.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wLcj4CTryKQ/WBpVtYiRmvI/AAAAAAAABMY/ASwPh4bbwGgvQFnNKPaAsu7zTvbGI_hVQCEw/s1600/ContinuumBar-shaded.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wLcj4CTryKQ/WBpVtYiRmvI/AAAAAAAABMY/ASwPh4bbwGgvQFnNKPaAsu7zTvbGI_hVQCEw/s640/ContinuumBar-shaded.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tGFAZEG7AKo/WBdwGtq4Z3I/AAAAAAAABKw/v3_uTW1DdQ81xwowCmNRXsQcKqluPRhqwCLcB/s1600/gBar-pieces.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="459" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tGFAZEG7AKo/WBdwGtq4Z3I/AAAAAAAABKw/v3_uTW1DdQ81xwowCmNRXsQcKqluPRhqwCLcB/s640/gBar-pieces.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the basic ingredients ready to be assembled</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b>Materials:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>18" x 3.5" x 3/4" plank (poplar, birch plywood or other hardwood)</li>
<li>2" half round dowel (2" x 1" x 18") - poplar, birch other other hardwood</li>
<li>3/4" half round dowel (3/4" x 3/8" x 18") - poplar, birch other other hardwood</li>
<li>5/8" half round dowel (5/8" x 5/16") - poplar, birch other other hardwood</li>
</ul>
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<ul>
<li>3 - #6 - 1.5" wood screws</li>
<li>3 - #6 - 1" wood screws</li>
<li>6 - 3d 1.25" finish nails</li>
</ul>
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<ul>
<li>7'-8' - 5mm or 6mm accessory cord</li>
</ul>
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<ul>
<li>wood glue</li>
</ul>
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<b>Tools</b>:<br />
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Minimally you will need a hand saw, drill and hammer. If you can not obtain or have someone halve the dowels for you lengthwise, you will need a table or band saw to slice the dowels in half length-wise.<br />
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PS - in case it was not obvious, the name for the bar came from the "<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">g</span>" cross section of the bar. Several people who've tried it did not immediately make the connection.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2929147546969115580.post-63424027555580908292016-05-05T09:00:00.001-05:002016-05-12T08:02:48.545-05:00Portable Training Tripod<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BT2oofcNWpw/VytahKyqVyI/AAAAAAAABIE/3oRG2fXfqzYL5dblpBobYarVL_f4xteRACLcB/s1600/Tripod-w%257Cproducts%2Bcopy-S.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BT2oofcNWpw/VytahKyqVyI/AAAAAAAABIE/3oRG2fXfqzYL5dblpBobYarVL_f4xteRACLcB/s1600/Tripod-w%257Cproducts%2Bcopy-S.jpg" /></a><br />
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The Training Tripod is a portable stand for making a workout station for hangboards, hanging portable climbing holds, or other training devices. The idea was adapted from <a href="https://www.trainingbeta.com/tom-lindner-climbing-tripod-beta/" target="_blank">Tom Linder's original idea over on Training Beta's Blog</a>. We have used it at climbing festivals to showcase our training products and allow people to try them, as well as running dead-hang comps as a fund raiser for the American Alpine Club.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fJ9OlvNBPiY/VyonN93we8I/AAAAAAAABFo/0F0qDy1_VDgNwnK3uL8jHYP77XLH44d6gCK4B/s1600/Tripod-disassembled.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fJ9OlvNBPiY/VyonN93we8I/AAAAAAAABFo/0F0qDy1_VDgNwnK3uL8jHYP77XLH44d6gCK4B/s400/Tripod-disassembled.JPG" /></a><br />
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The main differences between mine and Tom's are that it collapses to 5' for travel and has the wooden triangle hanger which provides three sides from which to hang training devices. It also helps set the correct leg spacing each time the tripod is set up. I suggest that your read his description first on how to create the Training Tripod and then decide if you'd like to make the collapsible version with 3 training stations.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5_ip84nIL7s/VyouTTX3L9I/AAAAAAAABG4/aZhm3f578ag7k5_hUeTHWejkIhPqh6wkACK4B/s1600/DSCF1431b.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5_ip84nIL7s/VyouTTX3L9I/AAAAAAAABG4/aZhm3f578ag7k5_hUeTHWejkIhPqh6wkACK4B/s400/DSCF1431b.jpg" /></a><br />
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The tripod is made out of 10' section of 1.5" diameter conduit pipe. Each leg is cut in half and a 3/16" wall 1.5" i.d. x 6" long aluminum pipes epoxied to one end of each of the legs. This provides a slip-fit joint which is held in place by gravity when assemble and makes setting up and taking down a snap. I tried originally using 1.5" conduit joints but they were too short and the fit too sloppy to provide a decent joint. I obtained the aluminum pipe from a friend's machine shop.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GFia5GISbic/VyooTkbL78I/AAAAAAAABF0/iPnFYQoFncEIGh_QCcy3phprjTtt0ASDwCK4B/s1600/Tripod-joint.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GFia5GISbic/VyooTkbL78I/AAAAAAAABF0/iPnFYQoFncEIGh_QCcy3phprjTtt0ASDwCK4B/s400/Tripod-joint.JPG" /></a><br />
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The top joint is held together by 3/8" carriage bolt, several washers, a lock washer, and a wing nut. The holes drilled are 1/2" to allow a bit of play which makes it easier to set up and adjust. The measurements for drilling the holes are: Middle tube - both holes are 2/14" from the end.<br />
Side tubes - one hole is 2 1/4" from the end; the other is 2 3/4" from the end.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RZ395CtOPyw/Vyov1Ht9HFI/AAAAAAAABHQ/kI8YvQAUFVoO6sxOecC__akOUofhCx0JACK4B/s1600/DSCF1373.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RZ395CtOPyw/Vyov1Ht9HFI/AAAAAAAABHQ/kI8YvQAUFVoO6sxOecC__akOUofhCx0JACK4B/s400/DSCF1373.JPG" /></a><br />
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The stops for the wooden tripod to rest on are 3/8" x 3 1/2" carriage bolts with washers and a lock nut. The holes for them are drilled 26" from the end of the top half of each tripod leg. However, this is totally dependent upon how high you want the wooden triangle to be mounted. I suggest making and setting up the basic tripod without the wooden triangle so you can determine how high up off the ground you want it, then drill the holes accordingly for each leg.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ntKsbGUgeX0/VzHjlB111gI/AAAAAAAABIs/Eh1ifSpt2C0dio2PjtXw-blhpx43QmUHQCK4B/s1600/TriangleDiagram.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ntKsbGUgeX0/VzHjlB111gI/AAAAAAAABIs/Eh1ifSpt2C0dio2PjtXw-blhpx43QmUHQCK4B/s320/TriangleDiagram.png" width="320" /></a><br />
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The wooden tripod is made out of 2x4 lumber measured and cut to fit once the tripod is set up and the desired angle achieved. Make sure before making the measurement for the wooden triangle that each leg of the tripod are equal distance from each other. Each leg of the wooden triangle is approximately 23" except for one leg that was left longer so that a weight reduction pulley system could eventually be mounted which is 30" long. This was cut longer so the suspended weight would not interfere with the climber. Each angled end is cut at 60 degrees.</div>
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This was the trickiest part to make because the length of each leg will determine what angle the assembled tripod sits at. Measure twice (or three times) and cut once! The desired angle between each of the wooden braces is 60 degrees to form an equilateral triangle.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vf2AIvhycG0/VzFPmq_H_BI/AAAAAAAABIc/TOLnrJSg5n8AWjzfelnaBUiI4EPBKh8OwCK4B/s1600/WoodTriangle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="128" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vf2AIvhycG0/VzFPmq_H_BI/AAAAAAAABIc/TOLnrJSg5n8AWjzfelnaBUiI4EPBKh8OwCK4B/s400/WoodTriangle.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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The wooden triangle mount is held together with 2 #10 3-1/2"wood screws in each end and then 3-1/8-in x 7-in nail plates and mending plates.<br />
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The Training Tripod could easily be created without this part as Lindner did if you intend to only mount one item at a time such as a hangboard. This would make construction significantly easier. See his description for how they mounted a hangboard that was easy to swap out for other training boards. We decided to use the wooden triangle mount so that we could use the tripod for climbing festivals to display and use three products at once and have multiple people using them.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kurNeSMPe90/Vyow1IxcGUI/AAAAAAAABHk/-xZM9oLHLWs6HdLxuKGCcsXKf8rsqU67ACK4B/s1600/Tripod-j-bolt.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kurNeSMPe90/Vyow1IxcGUI/AAAAAAAABHk/-xZM9oLHLWs6HdLxuKGCcsXKf8rsqU67ACK4B/s400/Tripod-j-bolt.JPG" /></a><br />
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We added J-bolts drilled through the width of each leg of the wooden triangle so that they were free to pivot into place and "hook" the bolts on the tripod leg that it rests on. This "locks" it into place so that when in use the triangle won't move or be flipped up by weighting the opposite side. Each side of the wooden mounting triangle had had one J-bolt corresponding to the tripod bolt that it was resting on.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Rjzv9bDjv2Y/Vyoox-jzimI/AAAAAAAABGM/ET7qaerLCfUi0L8aQu3jWYWP7F3D2C0OgCKgB/s1600/Tripod-stake.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Rjzv9bDjv2Y/Vyoox-jzimI/AAAAAAAABGM/ET7qaerLCfUi0L8aQu3jWYWP7F3D2C0OgCKgB/s400/Tripod-stake.JPG" /></a><br />
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1/2" holes for ground stakes - optional if you're going to use the tripod on a lawn or in the dirt. This will keep keep the tripod from shifting around. Use a solid spike or tent peg.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z5GfsiKijQ0/VyowWrsNHwI/AAAAAAAABHo/R_MuntlQH9so6x5R4P1WTiHjVQFXPQ0zwCKgB/s1600/DSCF0392s.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z5GfsiKijQ0/VyowWrsNHwI/AAAAAAAABHo/R_MuntlQH9so6x5R4P1WTiHjVQFXPQ0zwCKgB/s400/DSCF0392s.jpg" /></a><br />
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Assembled tripod with weight reduction pulleys temporarily hung with accessory cord. Eye bolts will be added later to make a permanent mount for the pulleys.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v6Y6Lj3AZPs/Vyou_rEHsaI/AAAAAAAABHI/pkXpN4y3K9M_RYWDKLU6fbkIkCOXOvk5wCKgB/s1600/DSCF4431b.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v6Y6Lj3AZPs/Vyou_rEHsaI/AAAAAAAABHI/pkXpN4y3K9M_RYWDKLU6fbkIkCOXOvk5wCKgB/s400/DSCF4431b.jpg" /></a><br />
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The tripod with Crack Rack, Pocket Rocks, and Gstrings hung and ready to use. The Crack Rack is mounted to a 2x10 backing board that has two 3/8" open-eye lag screws so that it can be quickly hung or removed from 3/8" bolts in the wooden triangle. The bottom of the 2x10 was shaved off at an angle so the board would sit vertically when hung. The same mounting system could be used for a hang board or board with climbing holds mounted to it.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k_HPbmyjC-s/Vyop1ECdL3I/AAAAAAAABGk/mVEG8krxam4IphCKppGVhOkpP5nNMb9_QCKgB/s1600/Luke-hanging.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k_HPbmyjC-s/Vyop1ECdL3I/AAAAAAAABGk/mVEG8krxam4IphCKppGVhOkpP5nNMb9_QCKgB/s640/Luke-hanging.jpg" width="425" /></a><br />
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<b>Additional thoughts and ideas</b>:<br />
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If you are going to use the tripod on cement or asphalt, it might be worthwhile considering putting 1/4" bolts through the bottom of each leg and then connecting it with vinyl coated braided wire. This would also help in setting it up by setting the correct distance that the legs are able to spread and thus the correct angles for the tripod. I would also consider cutting the ends of the legs so that they would sit flush on the ground.<br />
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I've toyed with the idea of eliminating one of the legs and substituting a pair of 2x10s spaced by 3/8' bolts to make an adjustable crack. I'd have to eliminate the wood triangle and figure out another way to mount the products. This would add versatility but would definitely increase the hassle in moving and transporting. For portable crack training it's much easier to use our prototype Crack Rack so we'll probably will not go this route.<br />
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Stay tuned - we'll also be publishing some plans for how to make your own simplified version of the Crack Rack called the Squeeze Box. It is relatively simple to make based on using a pair of wood clamps, is easily adjustable and can be hung most anywhere.</div>
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