With the introduction of the Gstring PRO model coming in November and the new RipCord quick-release adjustment system, we're offering instructions for those who have Gstring "Classic" grips and would like to convert them from the Prusik hang loop to the new RipCord adjustment system. While the Classic version will remain the most versatile, some may prefer the ease of adjusting of the new RipCord system. Before starting the conversion, it would be good to review the differences in the previous blog post to see which is best for you. Most materials can be obtained online through various sources or through your local outdoor and hardware stores. We'll also be offering a conversion kit in the near future to make it easier for users. It will include everything necessary for the conversion except the 'biners (see below).
WHAT YOU WILL NEED:
RipCord Update Kit from SICgrips store, OR the following items:
- 4 - 1" i.d. (inside diameter) x 3/16" (4mm-5mm) thick stainless steel rings. You may be able to get a thinner nickel-plated steel version of these at a hardware store. If thinner, they may not adjust quite as easily and will not be as strong...but should work (use at your own risk).
- 11' of 5mm extremely flexible accessory cord - the best brands we've tried are Sterling and New England (Maxim). Some of the other brands such as BlueWater are stiffer and will be difficult to adjust using the RipCord system. Smoothness and flexibility of the cord are the keys to ease of adjustment.
- 3 feet of 3mm accessory cord.
- the cord-lock tube that you'll remove from the existing 3D-Sling cord.
- 4 - 3" pieces of 1/4" I.D. vinyl tubing to serve as cord protectors to prevent abrasion of the 3D-Sling cord by the StikGrip.
Whether you purchase the update kit or the individual items above, you'll also need:
- 2 oval or 2 symmetrical pear 'biners. NOTE: D or modified D 'biners; asymmetrical pear 'biners; or small 'biners should not be used. They will cause the cords to bind and may be difficult or near impossible to adjust. If you don't have any of these biners and don't need the light weight aluminum 'biners for portability, ClimbTech's steel oval is excellent and reasonably priced.
- Take off previous 3D-Sling cord, by either by pulling out and untying the knots inside of the crimper or by cutting cord and pulling knot out the end. Save the short 5" cord-lock tube that you'll re-use.
- Cut the 5mm cord into two equal 64" pieces. Melt the ends making sure that the end result is not larger than the diameter of the cord itself. When the melted ends are still molten, roll on a yogurt container lid or thin piece of cardboard to form into a neat, small diameter end. This is important or it will not be able to go through cord lock tube or the vinyl tubing in the next step. Be careful of the molten nylon before it cools - it burns!
- Thread new cord through cord-lock tube. Wetting the cord and tube with soapy water will help it go through easier.
- Position the cord lock tube so both legs of cord are exactly equal in length.
- Thread cord ends through holes in bottom of grip and make sure cord lock tube is pressed flat against bottom of grip. The cord lock tube may slightly bow but the ends should be flat (locked ) against the bottom of the grip.
- Recheck to make sure both legs of the cord are equal. If not, pop up the cord-lock tube and pull a small amount of cord through tube to adjust. Press cord-lock tube back against bottom of grip again.
- If using vinyl tubing cord protectors, thread one on each cord leg.
- Thread both ends of cord together through the 1-1/4" stainless steel ring
- Thread the end of each cord through the smaller 1" ring, crossing them where they go through. Each cord end should end up on the opposite side of the grip. This is crucial.
- Thread on the last two vinyl tubing cord protectors.
- Thread ends of cords through the holes in the hollow of the crimper.
- Tie an overhand knot with 1/4" tail in the end of each cord, then push the knot inside the crimper and tighten by pulling.
- Take strands A & B and bring them together underneath and inside of the other two strands as shown below:
- At this point, make sure the large ring is oriented like this. Note the other two strands of cord come up through the large ring from right to left.
NOT like this,
left to right. If it is wrong, simply flop the ring over the other way from left to right to orient correctly.
- Make a loop by pushing strands A and B up through the larger ring between the existing two strands coming through the larger ring. You will now have four strands of cord together that form a loop.
- Clip a 'biner through the four-strand loop that you just created. It should look like this:
- Cut the 3' piece of 3mm cord into two 18" pieces and melt the ends.
- Place both ends of one of the 18" pieces of 3mm cord together and tie an overhand knot an inch or two from the end. Repeat with the other 18" piece of 3mm cord.
- Girth-hitch the 3mm cord loop to the smaller ring. This forms the RipCord, that when pulled, will release tension on the 3D-Sling cords so the grip can be easily adjusted. The end result should look like this:
Note: Once you insert the 'biner in the 3D-Sling, do not remove! If you do, the adjustment system will collapse and no longer function. To reassemble again, repeat steps 13-16.
USING THE RIPCORD ADJUSTMENT SYSTEM:
Pull RipCord 5"-6" with one hand to unlock the cords, while at the same time keeping tension on the grip with the other hand, rotating it to desired position. When desired angle is achieved, pull on grip to lock 3D-Sling cords again before using. If changing the grip drastically (i.e. rotating it 180 degrees from crimper to flat edge, or vice-a-versa, or rotating 90 degrees to a vertical pinch), it may take a couple of rocking/seesaw motions consisting of pulling ripcord while rotating grip, then pulling ripcord again with another slight rotation of the grip. Once you get the hang of it, it'll offer an extremely quick and easy method for changing grip positions.